We’re so nearly there with making Coco! In this post, I’ll walk you through finishing the sleeves – first without cuffs, then with cuffs – and stitching the hem. Let’s get going…
Finishing sleeves without cuffs
Fold the bottom edge of each sleeve under by 2cm (3/4 in), wrong sides together, pressing and pinning in place. Try your Coco on and adjust the sleeve hems if you need to until you’re happy with the length.
Set your machine to the zigzag stitch and to the width and length of stitch you’re using for topstitching (I’m using 2.5 x 2.5). Zigzag topstitch the bottom edge of each sleeve using a 15mm (5/8 in) seam allowance.
TIP: When sewing a smallish loop such as the sleeve hem, be careful not to stretch out the fabric. It’s less likely to stretch out if, rather than wrapping it around the sewing machine free arm, you keep the loop of the sleeve facing up on the machine and sew along the inside.
Finishing sleeves with cuffs
The cuffs – which are an optional attachment for the three quarter length sleeves – are constructed in a similar way to the funnel neck.
Zigzag stitch the short ends of each cuff using the stitch setting you’re using to join seams (I’m using 1.5 width x 2.2 length). Trim the seam allowances to help reduce bulk, and press them open.
Now fold each cuff lengthways, wrong sides together, matching the seam lines and notches, and pin the long edges together. Set your machine to either straight or zigzag stitch and a 4mm stitch length, then baste (tack) together the long edges of each cuff using a 10mm (3/8 in) seam allowance.
TIP: When sewing a smallish loop such as the cuff, be careful not to stretch out the fabric. It’s less likely to stretch out if, rather than wrapping it around the sewing machine free arm, you keep the loop of the cuff facing up on the machine and sew along the inside.
Slip one cuff over the end of each sleeve, right sides together, aligning the basted edges of the cuff to the raw edge of the sleeve, matching the seam lines and notches. Pin each cuff to the sleeve, then zigzag stitch them together (1.5 width x 2.2 length).
Press each cuff away from the sleeve and press the seam allowances towards the inside of the sleeve. Zigzag topstitch (2.5 width x 2.5 length) the seam allowances to the sleeve, just below the seam line. To wear the garment, roll half of the cuff over so it just covers the seam line. If you want to, you can secure the end of each cuff to the sleeve with a couple of hand stitches to stop it unfolding.
Sewing the hem
Right, now to sew the hem. Fold the bottom edge of the garment to the inside by 2cm (3/4 in), pressing and pinning in place. If you’re making the top version, fold the ends of the hem in ever so slightly so they don’t show on the outside of the side splits.
Now try your Coco on. Are you happy with the length of the hemline? Now’s the time to make it slightly shorter if you want to – repin it, press it again neatly, and chop off any excess length so the folded under seam on the hem is 2cm (3/4 in). (If you’d prefer it longer next time you make it, see the post on lengthening the pattern.)
If the hem on your fabric looks a little wibbly, you can try applying hemming tape (like you did on the neckline) to give it a bit more structure.
Once you’re happy with the hemline, straight or zigzag topstitch (2.5 width x 2.5 length) the hem using a 15mm (5/8 in) seam allowance.
And that’s it! If you’re adding pockets, we’ll cover that in the next post in the Coco sewalong. If not, your Coco is finished! Woop! Please leave a link in the comments to a photo - or you can tweet me - I'd love to see...