18 May 2016

A Capeless Watson Jacket

Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the ButtonsWatson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons

You know what it's like - you search in vain all Autumn and Winter long for the perfect coloured wool to make a coat that doesn't break the bank. Then, come late Spring, you find it!

I couldn't resist grabbing this mint wool when I spotted it on Goldhawk Road a few weeks ago, and promptly sewed it up into a Papercut Patterns Watson jacket before the weather gets too warm (I live in London). Longtime readers may remember I've made the pattern before, back in 2013 (inspired by Moonrise Kingdom but ending up looking like a homage to Father Ted - still love it though).

Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons
Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons

This time I removed the capelet to make it capeless. There are only so many capelets you need in your life, after all. The jacket has princess seams and a Peter Pan collar at the front, and long waist darts and a little peplum giving it a lovely shape at the back. 

The great thing about making a pattern a second time is that I'd already done the leg work of making a toile and adjusting the pattern last time - so it was relatively speedy to come together. One thing I'd do differently though. Even though I trimmed the under collar down to try to hide the seam line, this wool was pretty bulky and the seams liked to roll around and do their own thing. If I made it again, I'd trim the under collar down even more to try to keep it on the underside.

Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons
Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons

Did you see my talking buttonholes on Instagram? I do apologise. I went for bound buttonholes and hand stitching does crazy things to my mind. Worth the effort, I think - they seem to suit wool a lot more than machine stitched buttonholes.

Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons
Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons

Before I go, can we talk about my favourite feature of this jacket? Perhaps my favourite feature of anything I've made thus far? The lining fabric! Look at it! It's a super creepy disembodied hand print silky material I found in Marché Saint-Pierre on the Paris sewing blogger meet up (yes, that was a thing). I was saving it up for something special like this and am so glad I did. Now I can creep people out when I open up my jacket to try to sell them a watch...

Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons

*****
Fabric: Mint wool from Goldhawk Road (sorry, I can't remember the name of the shop but it's the one with the wools back left down a couple of steps)
Lining fabric: One of the shops in Marché Saint-Pierre, Paris 
Buttons: John Lewis
Photography: Fanni Williams

25 comments:

  1. I love this, it is so cute!

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  2. This is very cute and inspiring! I definitely love the linen!

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  3. It looks great Tilly. I love the colour of the wool (a little bit different), and the pattern looks just as good without the cape. You might sneak in a couple of Spring wears before the warmer weather arrives!

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    1. Definitely - it's still pretty chilly in London!

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  4. I'm just about to sew my Watson capeless jacket inspired by your make xx I've done mine in lightweight black fabric with a cotton lining in turquoise flamingo fabric

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  5. Beautiful jacket -- I really love this cape-less version!

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  6. OMG Tilly what a beautiful make and it suits you so much - plus, you enabler, you've made me look at this pattern with new eyes - I'm not a great capelet fan but without it it's a perfect topper! And the colour - it's my favourite La Duree green - I'm constantly looking for fabric in that colour...

    Popped over to see your pink one and you totally don't look like a Catholic bishop - I was born one and even though I'm watching Father Brown where a bishop appears regularly you didn't ring any bells:) - it's gorgeous.

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    1. Hehe, thanks for the reassurance :)

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  7. Beautiful jacket, love the shape & the colour. Looks great on you��

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  8. What a cute jacket Tilly!
    I have a question though, what will you do to get the seams to lie flat? I ALWAYS have this problem with the Melton jackets I make and nothing seems to work (short of stitching them down!)

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    1. Thank you! Do you mean the undercollar or seams in general? For the undercollar, next time I'll trim it down even more than I did before. For seams in general, I'd press them until they give in!

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    2. Press with a clapper. Topstitch.

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  9. Hi Tilly,

    Sorry for leaving a comment completely unrelated to the topic at hand(although it's definitely a cute jacket!)But I was struggling to find a way of contacting you.My question is: would the Bettine dress work on 2m of 145cm wide fabric, as opposed to 150cm, or do I need to buy a bit more? Thanks!

    Claire

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    1. not Tilly but I can tell you it will:)

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    2. Thanks for replying, Francesca! Yes, Claire, that should be fine :)

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    3. Thanks so much for replying, that has really set my mind at rest!

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  10. Hey Tilly...it's beautiful! Thought you might like to know we have opened up a digital textile printing factory in London - www.fashion-formula.com and we specialise in custom linings for dress makers and tailors. We already work with a number of Saville Row tailors to do custom suit linings and waistcoats. Would love to hear more from you. Let me know if you would like some samples. Thanks Alex

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  11. Love it! Although I think I prefer your Pink caped one!! Would u say it's very advanced?? I have made a few items, dresses blouses etc.

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  12. Love all the colour styling in this, Tilly, including those pink Converse! Needless to say, a gorgeous make.

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    1. Thanks Karen! I always liked your turquoise Converse too xx

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  13. Admin, if not okay please remove!

    Our facebook group “selfless” is spending this month spreading awareness on prostate cancer & research with a custom t-shirt design. Purchase proceeds will go to cancer.org, as listed on the shirt and shirt design.

    www.teespring.com/prostate-cancer-research

    Thanks

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  14. Understitch the collar and the seams can't move around

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