tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16450280492179092222024-03-16T09:01:36.436+00:00Tilly and the ButtonsLearn to sew your own clothes! Sewing patterns, tips and tutorials for beginners.Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comBlogger1120125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-3451098176739661532024-03-15T12:00:00.190+00:002024-03-15T12:00:00.338+00:00How to Sew Welt Pockets<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="How to sew welt pockets" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1Do971eDY8FxhSPHaBQPotLP3sFBa0W8BMysf_7uzKc83TQb9hNjOXndeu-zeJc7kJ93NeRMS6YTjBvIGeIkk8hYpF0fD7-Sdw44UId4xBHwlFCNIpckg6MDAL14M0DkT6-2DEQt_NLlIvSDpmSYLZQgIjb_BUVcvayFNYseHswEJza9D7v6B7qibTTz/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20welt%20pockets.jpg" title="How to sew welt pockets - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><br /><div>Welt pockets look neat, chic and impressive - as well as being functional, of course! They have a reputation for being a bit tricky to sew, but take your time and you will be amazed at the finished result. </div><div><br /></div><div>Welt pockets are an optional feature on the Tilly and the Buttons <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea" target="_blank">Thea trousers sewing pattern</a>. The pattern instructions take you through each step with annotated photos. As we know some of you prefer to see sewing in motion, we've created a video to show you the process of making the welt pockets too.</div><div><br /></div><div><img alt="Hand inserted into welt pocket" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwrgsDvTrUHphkCm1R5djFmh99khEK_IdqE9_DeP9f1aL08TJvpTCDNGzMmKiK7E6sjciHkUsQ0V6CgrlxwVVrF8FMX6TmJ0zjYdmLzLEoYHZaga7UK2TPXds0fO2KBTVYcyICsCeTjLobekhSCvDmPcmQax168Ndcd4PkZTzLC9yFg4iX6FkMX2qFJDLN/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20welt%20pockets%20tutorial%2017.jpg" title="How to sew welt pockets - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What are welt pockets?</h3><div><br /></div><div>Welt pockets (sometimes known as "jetted pockets") are sleek internal pockets created by cutting though the fabric of a garment. You often see them on tailored trousers, skirts, jackets or coats. </div><div><br /></div><div><img alt="Pulling out corners on a welt pocket with tweezers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYe7RrrugCPV8lGsYgvzIYcmi9wftZ0joN2SqTy99c9oWHJt2-LTlxvEYYS3x59FBmczSSJvLBz8e7zcUSKPLeZaBsKpMWiMHygBvo7AIdXnJYI8nlnmhaUoMKsXN7Yzg6dPSHvxGjivK1J880nOAcbSHW3zKDDbYLHbtcNQg8J1w6bFLKy_A7ud5WGXzD/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20welt%20pockets%20tutorial%2014.jpg" title="How to sew welt pockets - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><h3>How do you sew a welt pocket?</h3></div><div><br /></div><div>Watch our step-by-step video tutorial on how to sew a welt pocket.</div><div><br /></div><div>Remember, we are demonstrating on the Thea trousers pattern - if you're using a different pattern, the piece names and markings may be a bit different, but you should be able to use the same technique.</div><div><br /></div>
<iframe width="650" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KevI8bBULZg?si=eD0xqQR_VScOCOyF" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<div><span style="color: red;"><b><br /></b></span></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Back view of welt pockets on hot pink trousers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj51gsxZAvtb3bk60Wgn_i5b7ZTgKomDEyTAF_P7U1XloIfjdbjmwMp8gdCyOxgF-SJLLrO2rJb5e5R2ODQ5Wca8hunVvahqmM9xlb5t5qrbmj5aNUfC_QE8kigECoS0gczSe0c9b2CjDt4U51asy-kYfANbIRp923R1DQSBAYpWORxjeGDhqQ21HvSiyjM/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%206.jpg" title="How to sew welt pockets - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Et voila! That’s how you sew a welt pocket. I hope this tutorial has made you feel confident about sewing one yourself.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you're making the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea">Thea trousers</a>, do share with us on socials <a href="http://instagram.com/tillybuttons" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> with the hashtag <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingthea/" target="_blank">#SewingThea</a> so we can see your beautiful work!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="How to sew welt pockets" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgieJaqBHjCz5rGJg3ykKBtDBG-B-7E7OrVPK__F8Um6jcZ39oCzzC8_FO3Yn-NG8HEwhEUbLcHhShqYPlJmVVvKTDcueg9XCHSjonr_dyBsaopM1wOLJ9c6xGaROnFYlayOap2wwPGYL2nUIWr1rBBn7z_PTKpUuJsATnOCb-M25ZVy9ekBHj4XYh24WVt/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20welt%20pockets%20tutorial.jpg" title="How to sew welt pockets - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /></div><div>*****</div><div>Author: Nikki Hoar</div><div>Video: Jane Looker</div>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-45340290968079399552024-03-12T12:00:00.002+00:002024-03-12T12:00:00.136+00:00Fitting the Thea trousers<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYF89kjaNvvebT0ttBCkQwSNM6VDc6uBx9tAogKMgdDY3t59cEZk-v6Hniow1w8JEhOnnJ7kBoeFNKcWk6RWOwMampdCgV7kONvda2-JlxLJnsWNAuL4DAoebXX9KtlGPo7VSwt8oqfz3brUWH9fvWW4LoWlV6aLC6xVuHT_HgJZ4S8yEx6ZHNXDeEK1k/s1106/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%201.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fitting the Thea trousers" border="0" data-original-height="1106" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYF89kjaNvvebT0ttBCkQwSNM6VDc6uBx9tAogKMgdDY3t59cEZk-v6Hniow1w8JEhOnnJ7kBoeFNKcWk6RWOwMampdCgV7kONvda2-JlxLJnsWNAuL4DAoebXX9KtlGPo7VSwt8oqfz3brUWH9fvWW4LoWlV6aLC6xVuHT_HgJZ4S8yEx6ZHNXDeEK1k/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%201.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers" /></a></div><br />Are you planning on making the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea" target="_blank">Thea trousers</a> and want some extra help on how to get a great fit? Then look no further as this post is for you.<p></p><p>Thea is a pair of high waisted, wide leg trousers with a choice of two lengths and multiple pocket variations. As we're all different shapes and sizes, there are various adjustments we can do to improve the fit of our me-mades. In this blog post we're going to cover the most common adjustments you may want to consider making to your Thea trousers, but bear in mind you probably won't need to do all of them, or even any at all!</p><p>In this post we're going to cover: </p><div><p></p><div><ul><li>Making a toile </li><li>Choosing your size </li><li>Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces </li><li>How to combine pattern sizes </li><li>Other common trouser fitting adjustments</li></ul><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div><h3><b>Should you make a toile?</b></h3><div><br /></div><div>A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock-up of your garment in fabric you don't mind using for testing purposes. A toile is a great opportunity to test the fit of a sewing pattern, as well as practising a technique, like inserting a zip or sewing a welt pocket, before you cut into your nice fabric. Pick a fabric with a similar weight and drape to the fabric you have in mind for your final project to get the best results. </div><div><br /></div><div>Now, making a toile isn't absolutely necessary on all projects, but it is usually a good idea for trousers. We would definitely recommend making a toile for the Thea trousers, particularly if you're not sure what fitting adjustments you may need to make - or at least considering your first pair a "wearable toile". If you don't have much suitable fabric to hand, you can make a shorter version of the trousers that end above the knee so you can test the fit around the waist, crotch and hips. </div><div><br /></div><div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/11/when-why-how-to-make-toile-or-muslin.html" target="_blank">comprehensive blog post about toile making</a>. Go check it out if you want to find out more!</div></div><div><br /></div><div><h3><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrnvN6T9y_R8bQ2TOilwYoi_kopsIPMjyIr8bn43pYne34eXmpNtnkDwCBmA8J4H7kldaUc5pxc8YDwGoqiKxWDVtr9CxowfFrOi3h_ZyAWUzD273hgdtjvv9wAY31gXMx6T-faok2vp7iaLq6iRSQL2-V2L6C688TZzAyyNwz3_HOEX3MMgmuh4FFvSc/s650/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%202.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Body form with bust, waist and hip areas highlighted" border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrnvN6T9y_R8bQ2TOilwYoi_kopsIPMjyIr8bn43pYne34eXmpNtnkDwCBmA8J4H7kldaUc5pxc8YDwGoqiKxWDVtr9CxowfFrOi3h_ZyAWUzD273hgdtjvv9wAY31gXMx6T-faok2vp7iaLq6iRSQL2-V2L6C688TZzAyyNwz3_HOEX3MMgmuh4FFvSc/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%202.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />Choosing your size</b></h3></div><div><div><span><!--more--></span><br /></div><div>Thea includes all 15 sizes in our range. Pattern sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better fit. For this reason, you may notice the proportions change in the measurements chart and the shaping is slightly different on the pattern pieces – sizes 7-15 include slightly more room at the waist, a deeper crotch and a bit more space for a fuller tummy.</div><div><div><br /></div><div>To find your size, using a flexible tape measure, measure the circumference of your:</div><ul><li>Waist - where you bend at the side </li><li>Hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is </li></ul><div>Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check. </div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihCKScUQiFfTe8KDxfY0wdn9tF23QFBON5sLqZLyCtCroNULqF67OBtkpdcIbW3w0nlpgHOwLuPkScH-xqGQHbLoSd5Z7IUfZMSlIFhvJlXgLuNuPA9kJqJF0I6NPmp3gX9vUIZBQDZTCf3Bp_meU5VrHw-5Af-_BJLM0OPkisLva__NXFi_6KrHv0Zm4/s799/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%203.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Thea trousers body measurements and finished garment measurements chart" border="0" data-original-height="799" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihCKScUQiFfTe8KDxfY0wdn9tF23QFBON5sLqZLyCtCroNULqF67OBtkpdcIbW3w0nlpgHOwLuPkScH-xqGQHbLoSd5Z7IUfZMSlIFhvJlXgLuNuPA9kJqJF0I6NPmp3gX9vUIZBQDZTCf3Bp_meU5VrHw-5Af-_BJLM0OPkisLva__NXFi_6KrHv0Zm4/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%203.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />Circle your waist and hip measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes. We'll come to that later, but first...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><h3><b>Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces </b></h3></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div><br /></div><div>Our patterns are drafted for a height of around 5"5 (165cm). If you're particularly taller or shorter than this, or know you have a long or short torso or legs, you can change the length of the pattern pieces to fit you better. You can also change the length of the trousers or the rise to suit your own personal style. </div><div><br /></div><div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/lengthening-or-shortening-pattern-pieces.html" target="_blank">blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces</a>. It talks you through the process, step by step, so take a look if you want more info.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you do make an adjustment to the length of a pattern piece, remember to make the exact same adjustment to any pattern pieces that it will join. For example, if you shorten the rise on the front leg, make sure the same adjustment to the back leg, so the seams end up the same length. </div><div><br /></div><div><div>We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Thea pattern pieces:</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhczrhO3V79VffeXMWpOKe935wgR-xCbnHCbMvOtcYRbmnmX3X9TF1ohWGcJJwizq5oOZNLHItqX06xrn0489RZrZZc7-mAZXB6nQRSeEaEwFn9-LqfKPMgQh1Q3PUPtN_JCJtNoYanRNPF8TGd0wpaXzcaI_hYIJ3-1fF-uFm6MJC653s4JmKzG49Y3L4/s650/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%204.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagrams showing how to lengthen or shorten the Thea trousers front leg pattern piece by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhczrhO3V79VffeXMWpOKe935wgR-xCbnHCbMvOtcYRbmnmX3X9TF1ohWGcJJwizq5oOZNLHItqX06xrn0489RZrZZc7-mAZXB6nQRSeEaEwFn9-LqfKPMgQh1Q3PUPtN_JCJtNoYanRNPF8TGd0wpaXzcaI_hYIJ3-1fF-uFm6MJC653s4JmKzG49Y3L4/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%204.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><div><b>1) Leg (crotch)</b></div><div><br /></div><div>The Thea trousers are high waisted, and designed to sit at the natural waistline i.e. where you bend at the side. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you are tall or short overall and usually find trousers come up a bit too high rise or low rise for you, you can lengthen or shorten the crotch using the set of lines marked "lengthen or shorten here" on the upper part of the front and back leg. </div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_OWy3VX2Z1Rb4vba2xDXGZcnSD8dPl0rLHYN6EehyphenhyphenTeG6XiWUYcEycG1O5ZqVDpF7IJG2pkLvdkdXD-de1zMGgUnqRHaGk4152RUfjge02qT2DdpHfutEHrKT-6hOkL87Ugr_x-z1y7q2o-cxjwxn2y9oiE3Sq1AGeD1srHipFXWMK2DihXbOA-l85FA/s650/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%205.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagrams showing how to lengthen or shorten the Thea trousers front leg pattern piece by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_OWy3VX2Z1Rb4vba2xDXGZcnSD8dPl0rLHYN6EehyphenhyphenTeG6XiWUYcEycG1O5ZqVDpF7IJG2pkLvdkdXD-de1zMGgUnqRHaGk4152RUfjge02qT2DdpHfutEHrKT-6hOkL87Ugr_x-z1y7q2o-cxjwxn2y9oiE3Sq1AGeD1srHipFXWMK2DihXbOA-l85FA/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%205.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><div><b>2) Leg (below knee)</b></div><div><br /></div><div>If you have particularly long or short legs, you can lengthen or shorten the pattern along the set of lines marked "lengthen or shorten here" on the lower part of the front and back leg. </div><div><br /></div><div>The inside leg measurement for the Thea trousers is 62cm (24 1/2in) for the cropped version and 78cm (30 3/4in) for the full-length trousers. Compare this to your own inside leg measurement before you decide whether to lengthen or shorten the legs. If you're not sure if you need to shorten them, leave them as they are and shorten them at the hemming stage if you need to. The Thea trousers have a generous 5cm hem, which gives you a bit of wiggle room to decide on the hem length once you've almost finished the trousers and are able to try them on. </div></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><h3><b>How to combine pattern sizes</b></h3><div><div><br /></div><div>The Thea trousers are fitted at the waist and high hip. As the trousers are reasonably fitted at the top we recommend choosing a size based on your waist and hip measurement from the body measurements chart. If these measurements fall into different sizes, you can grade between these areas to get a bespoke fit for your exact body measurements. <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/combining-pattern-sizes.html" target="_blank">Check out our blog post which explains how to combine sizes</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQK1f9wpDrIJFcSVvlr8D6QyCFMZAG6MvIohOGXAxcjwGVdahRNM7f0ap5iyd4xk-u1QNnNRzWnLfDnro4YgvGbE0A-4CCCggxE4gsrya2lWBIcWd2N4lFmdefwRogxqkYvBpEhxlbvGzqrfg3gHLbrcdJY7HnTLwr6F0BYqvJXlT9Y84YpMMkNXhDaQo/s650/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%206.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to combine sizes for Thea trousers" border="0" data-original-height="526" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQK1f9wpDrIJFcSVvlr8D6QyCFMZAG6MvIohOGXAxcjwGVdahRNM7f0ap5iyd4xk-u1QNnNRzWnLfDnro4YgvGbE0A-4CCCggxE4gsrya2lWBIcWd2N4lFmdefwRogxqkYvBpEhxlbvGzqrfg3gHLbrcdJY7HnTLwr6F0BYqvJXlT9Y84YpMMkNXhDaQo/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%206.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>If you want to combine sizes between the waist and the hips on the Thea trousers, you will need to adjust the front and back legs, in addition to the pocket bag and pocket lining pieces. Here's how you do it...</div><div><br /></div><div>Cut out the front leg in the bigger of the sizes you wish to combine. Place the front leg on top of the pocket bag. In this example I am going to grade between a size 5 at the waistline and a size 6 at the hips. Pin the pieces together along the size lines for the size you want for the waist (so in this example a size 5), lining up the notches at the hip and waistline. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUcY9YIzAbimDwMTppXzxYWI6bbp6qd12itBhF5wVjP6d1o-0OzQdIziCN8xomO5hxmfJdoFt9Tzb30W8XcQPc87tHOxMgXWCYdp8PvY24QJ0YJYaE0JRdgxB295OEr-R8rjEAGYOUyyxD_xvmA6dWOej9pOVeGiqR228HIR18EiuESSnKaq8sUfLcrc/s650/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%207.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to combine sizes for Thea trousers" border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUcY9YIzAbimDwMTppXzxYWI6bbp6qd12itBhF5wVjP6d1o-0OzQdIziCN8xomO5hxmfJdoFt9Tzb30W8XcQPc87tHOxMgXWCYdp8PvY24QJ0YJYaE0JRdgxB295OEr-R8rjEAGYOUyyxD_xvmA6dWOej9pOVeGiqR228HIR18EiuESSnKaq8sUfLcrc/s16000/Fitting%20the%20Thea%20Trousers%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%207.jpg" title="Fitting the Thea trousers sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Slip some paper underneath the side seam and stick it to the pocket bag - we're going to adjust this piece first. Starting at the top left corner of the pocket bag, draw a new side seam line from the waistline to the hip notch for the sizes you want, and then carry on until you're in line with the bottom of the pocket bag.</div><div><br /></div><div>The next step is to make sure the new side seam shape is transferred across to the pocket bag. How you do this will depend on whether you're grading to a bigger or smaller size at the hips, but you can either draw down the side of the side seam onto the paper underneath to get the new shape, or trace over the new side seam with a blunt tracing wheel (or stick a pin along the new side seam line every 1cm (3/8in) or so). Remove the front leg and connect the new side seam line to the bottom of the pocket bag, and re-draw the notches. </div><div><br /></div><div>All that's left to do is transfer this new shape across to the front leg, back leg and front lining pieces! Place them on top of each other, matching notches, and add/remove width (depending on the sizes you're combining) so all pieces match. </div><div><br /></div><div>Lastly, cut the waistband pieces to match the size of the waistline on your leg pieces. </div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Common trouser fitting </b>adjustments</h3></div><div><br /></div><div>Now, I'm well aware this is potentially the section you have scrolled to look at first and are now thinking, "Wait, where are the tutorials on how to adjust the crotch/tummy/butt?!".</div><div><br /></div><div>And to this I say relax, we have a whole blog post which covers the most <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2020/05/common-trouser-fitting-adjustments.html" target="_blank">common fitting adjustments for trousers</a>. Full tummy? Flat seat? Don't worry, we've got you covered. Go check it out!</div><div><br /></div><div><div>And that's it! Remember, when it comes to fitting trousers a little adjustment goes a (very) long way. Start by adding or subtracting a small amount and take it from there. </div><div><br /></div><div>Please tag us on Instagram @TillyButtons with the hashtag #SewingThea. We can't wait to see your gorgeous <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/sewingpatterns/products/mabel" target="_blank">Thea trousers</a>!</div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div>*****</div><div>Author: Nikki Hoar<br />Models: Sinead Dekker & Man Yee Woo<br />Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />MUAH: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lauraannemakeup/" target="_blank">Laura Ann</a><br />Samples: Beautifully sewn by Susan Young</div></div><div></div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comLondon, UK51.5072178 -0.127586223.607052859901394 -35.2838362 79.4073827400986 35.0286638tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-15908507358158736102024-03-08T12:00:00.163+00:002024-03-08T12:00:00.140+00:00How to Use Layered PDF Sewing Patterns<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z9-UiBkUeWn_A-rQphj9nGXBWzAH2tK-t6lZar20EdRHRYZ-vcDKem_WABqh3retOTXlvHfTDMWGC3LKtxPPCheX4bGlUNepeoynAjQMFNaIwRc4wTPyA0ZtvZRI2bgfF-wONVAA1zoN2V3w2II6RmAmHMbL-alUx2Xp_4bU9lcv9YtT5Go8bQ_R3IbO/s16000/How%20to%20use%20layered%20PDF%20sewing%20patterns.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /></div>We have recently started adding layered sizes to our PDF sewing patterns - hooray! This has been a regularly requested feature from the PDF pattern aficionados amongst you - thank you for your patience while we changed our processes to allow this feature. The <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea" target="_blank">Thea trousers</a> is our first sewing pattern with layers, and future patterns - including those in our forthcoming book <i><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mini-makes" target="_blank">Mini Makes</a></i> - will also feature layered sizes.<div><br /></div><div>If you're new to using layered PDF sewing patterns, this post will show you how to use this snazzy feature. It's very simple, I promise!</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What is a layered PDF sewing pattern?</h3><div><br /></div><div>Layered PDF sewing patterns are set up with each size placed on its own individual layer, kind of like pieces of tracing paper all stacked one on top of the other. This allows you to hide the sizes you don’t need and print just the ones you do. There are two main benefits to printing patterns in this way:</div><div>
<ol style="text-align: left;"><li>You'll save ink by printing just the sizes you need</li>
<li>It makes it easier to see your size line more clearly, making cutting out your pattern a smoother and more straightforward process.</li></ol><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b><span></span>How do I use layered PDF sewing patterns?</b></h3><div><b><br /></b>
The process of using layered PDF patterns is satisfyingly simple!</div><div><br /></div>
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5kvGmQ_wre4?si=cdV0Xnjp9ptV3m59" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe>
<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader showing how to open a PDF sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbY3RoM0pwUFokcp12f6ETHQbGjpGuM6ws_hLV1yE1aFNwmHHYoU62xhojXVlgRHSMj_DXxBOByYSaC_aPmfRvhDSt8ULWByOdfArnHSgq97F2T4iIGk0Yt7krSxJjLBOn1gEWmY702C_SZ343LFbzFxkkurCJcuxHYghqrXswtLM5IvkKkIKOOlwW3ik/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_1.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>First, open your PDF pattern in Adobe Acrobat Reader. If you don't have this programme already installed, you can download it from Adobe for free.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader with the "layers" icon on the right-hand side circled in pink, with a pink arrow pointing to it" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNTVoHGhuSTbkedRbOzN2WrNbVkj4A8_W8P0AMPP5qjUZgZ57RyMSpAdmEFa1_nSUC2yv74mnbJhRwHqSuPXY-uTD8CZnGwUvrUE8D9jlRQ4ZbG-q9Tpj4jws4LugLHb1kTEdxJv8_Fks6Lgk_oM5gAhinA5QGTztZycXio6Q7vucPqoQCB-Mv4DaSAso/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_2.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>Next, click on the layers icon to open the layers menu.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader with the layers menu on the right-hand side highlighted in pink" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUfk0N1sa7viIwtRtqPn2i8dxJqtYctF15aKVN6bEOliUTFVnGBka3PpsQCR2EjGr0mJQnTG4hwSUT3RpLeUwqoR9h7t4Le4Wfr1tI9rxDdwjhgFno1CbIcvzbEmwWxSpgVTbyBeVdIQ5QRJkQslQo6InPul1OPqUbgLXJJUoI0eiyN3eDA5mqWBtwdI/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_3.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>In the layers menu, you'll see all of the layers, i.e. sizes, that make up the pattern.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader with a pink arrow pointing to the "eye" icon on the right-hand side" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdzYCG88UjkcPsCb-0gCkFTLjSiDJpTZQkM18W5iHNuliT912BUcc-k22XcSEQg-UaNLim0xCKUnV03ZuWDMLMHXwA3LHnT8asccjcnajnBdpZaTcOUnOWs7_Znvj8OZrBGOwyeOzTwR-_CZfuuUH0siNI_pJPww5-KI9a8jaSHzTJKoNgNAsc1T8Ea0/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_4.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>Click the eye icon next to each of the sizes you don't want to print, to hide these layers.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader with the "padlock" icon on the right-hand side circled in pink, with a pink arrow pointing to it" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fvZTvtIMuo5Rzx8iODFCtk8xpNmWRPQVuwFOSAkv4rYeGjXO-QSbgp4TJqnwFjtew6vMW3xnomOpTinH66URUQFRSOPgdEUw1kbtpE6R7DJeYY8mnKsc7DtadIG56WOhEnUoQIiRoIPwVGViXDQ1E4zq5LOLvIOR43VaxPnfAyv8-2RJ4PFT89WwLWQ/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_5.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>You'll notice that there's one layer called "Pattern Info" that has a padlock next to it, instead of the usual eye icon - this means that this layer <b>cannot</b> be hidden, and we've done this on purpose to make sure your pattern always prints with all the vital information included.<br /><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader with sizes 6 and 7 only showing, and the eye icon belonging to each of these layers circled in pink" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimrb4M3Z8MGTNLF8ikbYynIePedmBuxY1obisduNaC9s2a1K-uP7FUmoraDoorUgBatBaKKedVmycbuQQh8ViEPXm9QlUG8YitvJF77muyOsYFDuPQjl98AIu7bTROYoPD5xvxP8rV-45mo0eKW7NMhAFlko4ANOOxQMWDZMSET8dg4teRH6nsyhian0Y/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_6.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>Once you’ve hidden all of the sizes you don't need by clicking the eye icon, if you scroll through the pattern you'll see that the only lines left on the page are the ones for your chosen size or sizes. In this example, you can see we've hidden all sizes apart from size 6 and size 7.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Screenshot of Adobe Acrobat Reader showing the print settings required for printing the pattern. The buttons labeled "poster", "tile scale: 100%", and "portrait" are circled in pink" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrly3eQWK8kHmTdlEh9raqArjFW3ehyV0ALgUZKXOAqcDZOLYnB06bL_8dLVvLvVoNMreAzCvD31bFlexgC0dDLaqFc8yFM3xs-i2BY859QGAdxAw25Gb9EJnWTmgIxO9PKh470mkPo-Jm3Uaix297AAZ9t73GzxjFifHEs6KZq0Y-c0eKS5pjeh5s8lI/s16000/How_to_use_layered_patterns_7.jpg" title="How to use layered PDF sewing patterns - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>Once you're happy that all the sizes you don't need are hidden, you're ready to print your pattern! </div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What print settings do I need for a PDF sewing pattern?</h3><div><br /></div><div>Go to File > Print, check you're printing "actual size" or "100%" scale, set the orientation to "Portrait", and you may also need to select "Poster" to centre the tile.<br /><br />
You can now tape the sheets together in the usual way to assemble the full pattern - you'll find more information on how to do this in our blog post all about <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/01/how-to-use-digital-sewing-patterns.html" target="_blank">using PDF sewing patterns</a>.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Can I use layers when printing an A0 copyshop file?</b></h3><div><b><br /></b></div><div>Layers are enabled on the A0 version of the file as well as the A4/Letter size version. You will not be able to save a new version of the file with some layers hidden to send to a copyshop, as the file isn't editable for copyright reasons. Check with the pattern printing service that you're using if they are able to select and print certain layers for you - some will do this, while others won't, so it's worth an ask.</div><br />
We hope layered sizing helps give you a smoother, happier sewing experience!</div><div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Handwritten script which says "love Tilly and the Buttons xxx"" border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/w320-h91/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /><br /></a></div></div><div>*****</div><div>Author: Frances Buddery</div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-3686055659025471052024-03-07T12:00:00.003+00:002024-03-08T10:52:17.317+00:00Common Trouser Fitting Adjustments<img alt="Header image showing a model wearing pink wide-legged trousers with a blue t-shirt. The text above the model reads "how to make common trouser fitting adjustments"" border="0" data-original-height="1170" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrah9baYGjNbVmMPNe8xhI9pTUBhaknmP47sfJ1W80_El0Wtb9NFy-tid2K2euRAOQElO-rrGH-NOrggWjl_r5TSHkWBZdNtwoXkyySCqLfYiAtFt5dMkG7QYJ2S9kdfp953OWux1Dvdf9RoaoW0QkhCBP89zUrVDky5oJwFWY4BQCQmdtofIAXrMXULo/s16000/Trouser%20fitting%20header_NEW.png" title="How to make common trouser fitting adjustments - Tilly and the Buttons" /><div><br /></div><div>Do you like the idea of making trousers or pants, but feel a little nervous about the prospect of fitting them? Well, fear not, as help is here! This blog post will cover the most common fitting adjustments you may need to make when sewing trousers.<br /><br />
Now, before we go any further, please shake off any ideas you may have about making a perfect, crease-free pair of trousers. They simply don’t exist. Well-fitting trousers allow you room to sit down comfortably, breathe, eat, and to live your best life. They will crease where you bend and move, and will allow you space to do so. Basically, don’t get hung up on eliminating every crease and line – it’s impossible!<br /><br />
With that in mind, we've covered a few different fitting adjustments here, but don't feel like you have to try them all! You may not need to make any alterations to your pattern, or perhaps you feel you need to do just one or two tweaks.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Do I need to make a toile?</b></h3><div><br /></div>
If you're not sure whether you'll need to make some alterations, or even what adjustments you might need, it's a good idea to make a "toile" - a mock-up garment in a similar weight fabric you don't mind using to test the fit - so you can see how a particular pattern works on you. We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/11/when-why-how-to-make-toile-or-muslin.html" target="_blank">comprehensive blog post about toile making</a>. Go check it out if you want to find out more!<br /><br />
Making a toile is more important if you're making something with a close-fitting crotch and bum area, like the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea" target="_blank">Thea trousers</a>, but not always essential if you're making a looser fitting garment, such as the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank">Esti trousers or shorts</a> or the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/make-it-simple" target="_blank">Safiya trousers</a> - unless you know you usually need to make lots of adjustments. For looser fitting trousers, you might want to make a "wearable toile", perhaps in an inexpensive but pretty fabric that you won't mind wearing if it all works out beautifully. <br /><br />
Ready to dive in and learn how to do some common trouser fitting adjustments? Let's go...<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I add more room to the stomach area? AKA a full tummy adjustment</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing drag lines radiating from stomach to side seams. Next to this is a diagram showing how to do a full tummy adjustment." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3z8FZSXXlAHPkQpEPTFDEKwoMDzfig4mdvuaUYmfUsBywQ2qhGy5c-uJ4Ss3fSLKB6vYtMRguUaDLdwXnrH6UANSbsnSbQ_D4euQtaP9ta88VRfanQ0UfWAS3M3XJAlkZIXR_GFWfGqNRWcP-7nlIHP9FVUsk_6RMFUEwcEkjrp90QM__VA1taPCjVg/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_1_FULL%20TUMMY.png" title="How to do full tummy adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span><a name='more'></a></span>If you feel tightness around the tummy with drag lines radiating from your stomach to the trouser side seams, it’s a sign you need more room in this area.</div><br />
Draw a horizontal line across the front leg, and a vertical line from the waistline to the horizontal line. Draw a diagonal line from the point where the horizontal and vertical lines meet, and the top corner of the side seam. Mark the seam allowance point at the corner.<br /><br />
Starting at the crotch, cut the horizontal line and stop where it meets the vertical line. Pivot and cut up the diagonal line, stopping at the seam allowance marking. Snip from the outside edge, stopping a smidge before the seam allowance line. From the waistline cut down the vertical line and stop just before the cut lines. Slide a bit of paper underneath and spread the pattern piece until you’ve added the desired width and length, and stick down.<br /><br />
Draw a smooth, curved line connecting the new and old crotch positions. Smooth out the waistline, drawing a new line to connect the gap in the waistline.<br /><br />
Check out our dedicated blog post with video, which explains <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/06/full-tummy-adjustment.html" target="_blank">how to do a full tummy adjustment</a> in more detail.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I shorten the front crotch?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A line drawing showing drag lines coming down from the front crotch. Next to this is a diagram showing how to shorten the front crotch." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhjzxjG4eC3nQk7nGjar0JyWGDrlpnw4J-N286jbN2Fa4Jw7oIgVb-vYZ3jOPaXjqI6_J0dUGf5BlMMw0W4ca4f0kLC64oNPmhhTLLbzh60_JAtUgJ3TUxzN9pOJhk3k-i_uKThCDdeyj1GxSXsXGWrsFE9cvsh6KFz62nR5gQt6eyKWVKriXqpULNqk/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_3_SHORTEN%20CROTCH.png" title="How to shorten front crotch - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If there are drag lines coming down from the front crotch, it may be a sign that it needs to be shorter. You might also feel that you need to hitch your trousers up in the crotch/top of the front thigh area only.</div><br />
On the front leg, mark around 10mm (3/8in) from the end of the crotch seam and, with a ruler or steady hand, re-draw the inner leg seam so that it gently tapers into this point. Cut away the excess.<br /><br />
A little removed goes a long way with this alteration, so don’t rush into taking off too much – it can be a process of trial and error!<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I lengthen the front crotch?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A line drawing showing drag lines coming up from the front crotch. Next to this is a diagram showing how to lengthen the front crotch." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-fZlMw4S939GY7t5L9ARlDVxKJA5g222NVXYbdQzgrHYX-51OR4YIxp2TewagAlbnzscvO5OL6fsYwsk5jQ5wzWLPmvruwdPsxAbBb8ZDERVdQ8uPSXLdakeuGM46jOUU2FSRjFVN30yyovCU50li5iFm5rq4fxFgYCMC5w7x8ALINcOh2oytZ5IhVXA/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_2_LENGTHEN%20CROTCH.png" title="How to lengthen front crotch - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you can see lines coming up from the front crotch, it might indicate that the front crotch is too short for you. Alternatively, the crotch may just feel too short and uncomfortable (aka you might feel like you need to hoik it out your nether regions).</div><br />
On the front leg piece, stick or tape some paper next to the end of the crotch seam and extend the cutting line. A little goes a long way, so around 10-15mm (3/8-5/8in) should make a big difference. With a ruler or steady hand, re-draw the inner leg seam so that it gently tapers into the original cutting line.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I do a flat pelvis adjustment?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing horizontal drag lines across the front crotch. Next to this is a diagram showing how to make the crotch curve shallower." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiInAsHvuATLMUC6EYR_hKEw3qPPoApw-PAGGhG-0DlJ65wxXsdf_bzRYHkmQ0SNH_Xyes5B7Ayb2snEZF-fcKocUAe6LyjxYkgKrrGi3lSEO6_nxpWEW7ukgpqQErEsw00nvMzI0E9byyO4emRnZUoEXkA2quZjBXkR8nEnKzJod5ZuLF4NiSqZcyz-TE/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_4_FLAT%20PELVIS.png" title="How to do flat pelvis adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you have horizontal lines across your front crotch you, you might want to change the shape of the crotch curve to make it slightly shallower.</div><br />
On the front leg, draw a slightly shallower crotch curve – you don’t need to do much here to make a big difference! This will change the seam allowance slightly, so stick a piece of paper underneath and draw a new cutting line from the crotch curve.<br /><br />
This is also an easy adjustment to do on the sewing machine. Draw a new stitching line on the wrong side of the crotch seam and simply follow it whilst sewing.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I do a round pelvis adjustment?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing vertical drag lines coming from the front crotch. Next to this is a diagram showing how to make the crotch curve deeper." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3eLLheluVbuELvSd7xHEalLMtOYN9DNo9oKlQd0mdoyNl3E5J65ea05J5Yf5i476HJNxK15iiex15csZ-RKu2tA-Py_ZIqYGynvsuwdTRHf0v0RqijkGsIYwmJbQGgJUMsOM0rhBwv-8Cgbs3sZ1V2EiEGQBJeZQ3l6XFR36KHBVlC9OblQeVvvBCrQ/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_5_ROUND%20PELVIS.png" title="How to do round pelvis adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you have vertical lines radiating from the front crotch, you might need to make the crotch curve a little deeper. You might also have a delightfully named ‘camel toe’.</div><br />
On the front leg, re-draw the crotch curve so it’s a little deeper. Add seam allowance from the new curve, and trim off the excess. Similar to the flat pelvis adjustment, you can also easily do this on the sewing machine. Draw a new stitching line on the wrong side of the crotch seam and follow it whilst sewing. You may also need to let out the trousers or pants a little at the side seams, to account for the changes you’ve made to the crotch.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I do a full seat adjustment?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing drag lines on the back of a pair of trousers that radiate from the waist, side seams, and legs towards the centre back seam. Next to this is a diagram showing how to do a full seat adjustment." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKKPXgRjv3HB0p0WZYiNXsEUPbwwi_zQew_xBMb82OjsB3nXcl6s9cnLiPtFpZiwRfcNrehAh1gA9PN4_eyXrpvEd3ZM7jSS3FTf9lsEqs-9PaHsHtbjMwlmUCdKdkJIVsKKH6BYd0S1ONgE1DCFNhzxsTMv8ZY7zP4o7m5XKe_QkVBowsp0506OH9xY/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_6_FULL%20BOOTY.png" title="How to do full seat adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you have a fuller booty, you might find that the back waistband pulls down, and drag lines radiate from the waist, sides, and legs towards the centre back seam. To rectify this, extending the back crotch seam will make the trousers fit better.</div><br />
Draw a diagonal line across the back leg from mid-way up the crotch to the side seam. Mark the seam allowance on the side seams. Cut from crotch seam to a smidge before the seam allowance mark at the side seam, and then cut from the side seam to just before this point.<br /><br />
Pivot the top section away from the bottom by the amount you would like to increase the crotch seam by – 10-15mm (3/8-5/8in) is a good place to start. Tape or stick down over a strip of paper, and then redraw the crotch seam with a straight line to neaten it out. Cut away the excess.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I do a flat seat adjustment?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing drag lines under the bum on the back of a pair of trousers. Next to this is a diagram showing how Next to this is a diagram showing how to do a flat seat adjustment." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsG9g2O3TVcrLnrR2OuXddm2jKGCjoYK9o-WBRAQ6QNeieGxDeQBgfV9FRrlQWdyhnL0q3L1qkXP2ui8Bj_Q1dRyc5a3tOLIJjbSqIeK3wDW4dMH14SgmuEBIjY7bGDfzXh1jxZ5jfBoTz9eL2SxQu3FtW-3jPB7ysuBXdMJSOsmgCLZFSy6HP2D759hk/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_7_FLAT%20BOOTY.png" title="How to do flat seat adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you have a smaller derrière, you might notice drag lines under the bum, or the bum area looks a bit saggy. This indicates you need to reduce the back crotch seam.</div><br />Draw a diagonal line across the back leg from mid-way up the crotch to the side seam. Mark the seam allowance on the side seams. Cut from crotch to a smidge before the seam allowance mark at the side seam, and then cut from the side seam to just before this point. <br /><br />Pivot the top section over the bottom by the amount you would like to shorten the crotch seam by - 15mm (5/8in) is a good place to start. Tape or stick down and then redraw the crotch seam with a straight line to neaten it out. Cut away the excess.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I lengthen the back crotch?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing drag lines coming from the back crotch out towards to hip and knee. Next to this is a diagram showing how to lengthen the back crotch." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUolJXfrIFvsvH-M8_BYtQu2buRYDBqGBRGNIppbZykcwRnX_7ErtZyur9FfxpHlH3BErV8LtfYE8tmW4MRaYEtxolqFU4dtjrxGndU8bImZoD9RU8GMjy9MwHLbE6co-asF_6hoaCou4ZnZwd-Z9h2P4oSzWDdRHUlFCYF-ndrOmks3QrKr7f4sKNkyY/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_8_FULL%20THIGH.png" title="How to lengthen back crotch - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>If you have lines from your back crotch radiating out towards the high hip and knee, this can indicate that you need to extend the back crotch. The trousers will also feel like they need more room across the back thighs.<br /><br />On the front leg piece, stick or tape some pattern paper next to the end of the back crotch seam and extend the cutting line. A little goes a long way, so around 10-15mm (3/8-5/8in) should make a big difference. With a ruler or steady hand, re-draw the inner leg seam so that it gently tapers into the original cutting line.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I shorten the back crotch?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing vertical drag lines coming from the back crotch radiating down the back leg. Next to this is a diagram showing how to shorten the back crotch." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2oWnQU6h0oAuTYomIMbh1I0Kh65PXPr1ttns6Q0A77s6bMq5nLPYaPQPqBbgKfPsblKc2guJaKhvuI4_9f1lbshrXVJP1Afleo-TLqf6oKXc9AGdm7iOHDpnjUrJTgldmiti1Sknr7ucU6ZStuwX8tqXnWGSiG49QnzEJ13ROWUZxjZYHTE0wtCKD3N8/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_9_THIN%20THIGH.png" title="How to shorten back crotch - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you have drag lines coming from the back crotch down your leg, and you feel like the top of the thighs feel too big for your frame, you may benefit from shortening the back crotch.</div><br />
On the front leg, mark around 10mm (3/8in) from the end of the crotch seam and, with a ruler or steady hand, re-draw the inner leg seam so that it gently tapers into this point. Cut away the excess.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I do a full calf adjustment?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing horizontal drag lines across the lower back legs. Next to this is a diagram showing how to do a full calf adjustment." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzw48jPzcUYdYjUsZdExcw14o2cjnVnVaR1DByhNo3STH4xhJIEttPfL8sW1QX6Uo3IPpCfH0uMaLbmEw8sIYrVw9OV7eAiDdTwV7ZIb3nFKKsIh2xzVLhQUhf5VE83pwu_SQt9t5Ro6BrL3U2eOBIzPtR31KrjczNASArYKiLRctpIgGMjdCGosZh7Gs/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_10_FULL%20CALF.png" title="How to do full calf adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If your trousers or pants feel tight across the back lower leg, you can add width where you need it across the calf.</div><br />
On the back leg, from the middle of the hem draw a line from the bottom to around the knee. At the top of this line, draw two diagonal lines to the side and inside leg seams. On the diagonal lines, mark the seam allowance. Cut from the end of the diagonal lines to just before the seam allowance. From the hem, cut up the vertical line, then cut up both diagonal lines, stopping just before the seam allowance marks. These will work as hinges.<br /><br />
Slide some paper underneath and spread the back leg to add the desired width to the leg. When you’re happy with the new width, stick the pattern piece down.<div><b><br /></b>
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I adjust a saggy back leg?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing horizontal drag lines across the upper back legs. Next to this is a diagram showing how to adjust a saggy back leg." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcfY3D5F24xjPOERurFSdCwMvE9WEAtsmNTucZcXD7e2fc9l0D9IPoljtXVmSNOwMzek0ufb0p1VCm602ZEdjOtaBa-OHGe3OMbptFenPTgUEx0K9VBNAjPeW8GU3LGZgwqEAy-C-eb138NrRqhARNJx0Y-dgY0x19JBEGpOQoFyiZN3j7ARqFkd4oGY/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_11_SAGGY%20BACK%20LEG.png" title="How to adjust saggy back leg - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>If you don’t have a particularly small bottom and are still finding excess fabric at the top of your back thighs or underneath your bottom, it might be that the pattern is too large or long for your thigh.<br /><br />
Pin out the excess fabric in the back of your thigh from one side to the other. Identify where the excess fabric that you’ve pinned is situated on your pattern by measuring down the inner and outer leg seams. Draw a line between these two points on your pattern. Draw a second line starting a third of a way along this line and ending at the crotch seam.<br /><br />
Cut along the second line from the crotch to the first line, and then cut both ways along the first line, ending 15mm (5/8in) from the side seams.<br /><br />
Pivot and overlap the upper pieces over the lower leg by the amount that you pinned out of your toile. Tape or stick down. With a ruler or gentle hand, re-draw both legs and crotch seam to smooth them out.<br /><br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How do I do a swayback adjustment?</b></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Line drawing showing horizontal drag lines across the back waist. Next to this is a diagram showing how to do a swayback adjustment." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoVRA0oMUq2O9uPJHRtauE-LkOJiPKezHgIH9fmpROoOC__rJHcVeqOMts6ZPG1t2IYVbNLm5yPw9U8SeVRemLvDqnpxzFpiLudMTMDpzDrBFPrm_qUNncSWhRPs5Rl6II8dDyxjI3wlkcBmNtxga-L5JVd5uMmnkpYcUdjTm2MkmjcinuA7SyllahSY/s16000/Trouser%20Fitting%20Diagram_12_SWAY%20BACK.png" title="How to do swayback adjustment - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you have fabric pooling at the centre back waist, you may need to shorten the top of the centre back seam.</div><br />
Measure down the centre back seam by the amount you want to reduce it by and mark it. Draw a smooth line from this mark to the top of the side seam. If your trouser pattern has a dart, close it to draw this line, and then ‘true’ the dart afterwards so it’s the correct shape.<br /><br />
And there you have it! Remember, a pair of trousers that you wear are infinitely more valuable to you than a pair that fit perfectly. Have fun with the process and feel proud of yourself!<br /><br />
<i>Liked this post? Check out <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/bust-adjustments-bust-darted-bodice.html" target="_blank">How to Bust Adjustments For a Bust Darted Bodice</a> and <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2022/02/five-ways-to-fix-gaping-neckline.html" target="_blank">Five Ways To Fix a Gaping Neckline</a>.<br /><br />
</i>********<br />
Author: Nikki Hoar<br />
Photography: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/">Jane Looker</a><br />
Model: Sinead Deckker</div></div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04744452281179504196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-28742238185683125842024-03-06T07:00:00.171+00:002024-03-06T12:12:53.891+00:00NEW PATTERN! Meet the Thea trousers<div class="separator"><img alt="Two models wear wide leg trousers in pink cotton and white corduroy" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_dB7Wqi0Kz4_0CJviasb1MaxScj43gYPCJQt2pvOkC74Ys_DUmNlwT-9d3iPmF47GalDyKtvR4HSwf8549aj43au3AwypeEIYCaYET05EZLHjTCacQc64qPdGoQt4Na9twyJ22ggVyL-YnIQHZ64amAVpgE4PjfNrCRb3NRRqoKnmAosNk3CtJW4PC0zv/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2021.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /></div>
There's a new sewing pattern on the block, and Team Buttons is <i>obsessed</i>!
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The <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea" target="_blank">Thea trousers</a> are a pair of wide leg pants that will be on regular rotation in your wardrobe. With multiple pocket options, two hemline lengths, and a wide range of suitable fabrics to choose from, this is a pattern to sew again and again.
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Read on to find more about Thea…
<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea">GET THE THEA PATTERN</a></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><img alt="Model wears white corduroy cropped wide leg trousers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFPqzDaqAyqMJQ5mGV0W_i-RPTcsjuSSFF5CyVuayx88StQnSkVk0P_OdtRncTqPvV12dxdD9pvFduMCC-DGBalnOwAWo02tO6KBxHCyTu8ADWGM5w7epadKfNqFagD7jgbmYOOrFieNcchrFfSHV4JfDu6hW91WX4GpMpfFFj-97C34rJwowWk9MKjuRY/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2010.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><img alt="Back view of white corduroy cropped wide leg trousers with patch pockets" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KqYQdH0lav0PG7nIH7l4fNeHKuS_hTzeEuRcPuw9MF7naXrNvk5OeiC_Xt-AwcqzJr4Gq4cAnh_sDB33S5ohOmETdAqG4rYyOoPAqNpKXZVbtkovARnlk8Nu7PyRvsPUVocfbp0cmsX7TTHhk3wJrXS5T7GYXdNUaStiHZs3PhJ4Ns2DDYNPTs5oCQxk/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2012.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><img alt="Model wears hot pink wide leg trousers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Gvu8vqYAIJsRT7R04b4SkJqt_a5QzDfaoVFXlUuG3huEp5LXabrUAyEcyf6c4o9J6E56cQet18Cc6fvas9fmpGhtJV6rxcg_hmDEAUe1XITPrNBuf2w9iv_Vxq83y6M9COxN1xCVcXJsFhO-zzjlNmWWPecq77SecImYEaUatk1Qaqw-AVJVQMU8Qd3q/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%203.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><img alt="Welt pockets on back of pink trousers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_Z3-6ZU19nKcftSVV-qYszFOFoTKdYvrb_b-_mmMpOroR4z67abBy83jA4dMdXPr4ZnM5_VRN8FV12yVeUa2d1Ga4n4lSSL_lbaysAsdZbGF8U58hHQjiIxyMR2Z3RqdHBz_JveUUIqPX07q4JjYflKckVQMeqNgs6vf2_IKDAY4u-sjrQagGg75zKkM/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%206.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><img alt="Back view of wide leg hot pink trousers with welt pockets" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdYpWom1xulKdbYZxfH67cCbmX-TEqHn_sEzQvN7S9297O_h_yEg52VMDbyXZShV4XGGTLptRfJtuaKxHRpiO9eU1RREWw0UAn0zHASHIqjVmPSzPf5WptdCgTNodKGHhleh_Pc07_s89wb5mX8wJbtQyFC_mEVMj6SyhGbx7kbVbzMgtYLdd1TBlmSgQ/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%205.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><img alt="Technical drawing of Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern with welt pockets" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqAtwh1Ye34JrsvAhFW2YOOe9cIyDBdwsftSGPajPbtt8csZMb0fSTly9N3wYruHwHvbrNsZaSBQ_qaUtOHPSJlXYsDp4WtN3UkhljDinRcKUcccn7tUYd3Wle5kcAHnzklPVlQYIS4-uf0v2zHsgzqS1ovJ1oPhJyeQCO_eUAY891hOQ3jKsPWu_R-L_Y/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2023.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><h4 style="text-align: center;">
THE PATTERN DESIGN
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These classic, wearable trousers have a wide leg that’s bang on trend and oh so comfy.
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If you fancy learning new sewing skills, we will guide you through making impressive welt pockets with our step-by-step instructions and <a href="https://tillyandthebuttons.com/thea" target="_blank">free video tutorial</a>. Alternatively, you can replace the welts with curved patch pockets for a more casual vibe.
<br /><br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>
Wide leg trousers with choice of full-length or cropped hem</li><li>
High waisted, shaped with a curved waistband and back darts</li><li>
Zip fly and button fastening</li><li>
Front pockets with rounded openings</li><li>
Choice of welt pockets or curved patch pockets at the back</li><li>
Optional belt loops</li></ul><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea">GET THE THEA PATTERN</a></b></div><div><br /></div><img alt="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern envelope" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIKZfJ8lH_eh60EW2pOsRQ4xm9uiLjJSGtmFSvXQjXtjRtwk_i-pWu8levoTlLw6eGaY5P-9TmuzJ0vxBTwNal2TpZFQACSMUA0caBOpQkV8U1N0Jk7jBUjKsdOurhfzT9Ic_wmhhKjftMhAeuZiAieegeeff2FjUpKqLlNpsN29xquBCGSPNlslrGe8cq/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2022.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;">SIZING AND FORMATS</h4><br />
The Thea pattern includes 15 sizes - UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62.
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Sizes UK 6-16 and 18-34 are drafted and graded for a different set of proportions to get a better fit. Sizes 18-34 include more volume for a slightly fuller tummy, including a wider waist and deeper crotch.
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The pattern is available in both printed and PDF format.
<br /><br /><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea">Order the printed sewing pattern</a> and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use again and again without it tearing or scrunching up.
<br /><br /><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea?variant=41072936714345">Order the PDF</a> and you'll get an email straight after purchase with a file to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. Oh and this is our first pattern with <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kvGmQ_wre4" target="_blank">layered sizes</a>!<br /><br /><img alt="Azure blue crepe wide leg trousers with welt pockets" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXra71cmGX15wwgs3_ACK8eb9H5h-2p-gQUrJ9QoVAYE4rLdY5SXteENa4Cez7gE0kU4VkUPqKDLPlKctKnlfkiYmwxyHwGqiG6uOTvBwRL2bZCvkY6i6tMplif7wbCcUuSeSD2K3fAr4Emkd-plRMgWx4jwp3foMFxCK_jg8ELsA8KeIKwAVFLcRSKPus/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2016.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;">
FABRICS + SUPPLIES
</h4><br />
Thea is suited to a wide range of medium-weight woven fabrics. If you want a structured shape, pick denim, corduroy, a heavier cotton twill, or wool suiting. For a more fluid silhouette, try triple crêpe (blue sample) or even linen for a lovely summer pant.
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(I’ve always wanted to say “a pant” singular like they do on <i>Next In Fashion</i>. Apologies if that offends!)
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The front pockets and optional welt pockets also need a small amount of lining. You may already have a suitable remnant in your stash, such as a cotton lawn or viscose (rayon). You could also use dedicated lining fabric such as cupro (Bemberg).
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You will also need:<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>
Matching thread</li><li>
Interfacing (similar weight to your fabric)</li><li>
15cm (6in) closed end zip</li><li>
15mm (5/8in) wide button with shank</li><li>
Sewing machine and basic tools, incl buttonhole foot and zip foot or adjustable zip foot
</li></ul><br />
For the full fabric requirements, take a look at the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea" target="_blank">Thea page on our online shop</a>.
<br /><br /><img alt="Instructional photo of sewing a zip fly" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0vSCXG9vqfSuf0oDxtaw9F6R_4PHrMaOnMeJV699bNfAqPc950wKqVJULsULgQiEkqpWtU9De56iT7DSWgVJZ15SUNQsyndR43QGWqJmrWh2f5NdaHpeV-R3giU_tQeK_O1v9FNLjG0K-L6SgJrPRpPIUNLrY1O0oTHxbsEDzYjed9TNvCtvhEc33dtk/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%201.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><h4 style="text-align: center;">TIPS + TUTORIALS</h4><br />
We have labelled Thea as suitable for "improvers" – in other words, either seasoned sewists or those who have some experience and are now looking to challenge themselves by learning new skills.
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The trickiest aspects of making trousers like these are fitting them to your unique shape, inserting the zip fly, and sewing the optional welt pockets (remember, you can always leave these out and sew the patch pockets instead). Our instructions have won multiple awards for their user-friendliness, plus we will be sharing comprehensive tutorials over the next couple of weeks on the <a href="https://tillyandthebuttons.com/thea" target="_blank">dedicated Thea blog page</a> to help you with these techniques and more, so you are in safe hands!
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We have had amazing feedback from our pattern testers on how these trousers come together, the style and finished fit on a range of body shapes, so we hope you will be pleased with them.
<br /><br /><img alt="Model wears hot pink wide leg trousers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEKRWxE5rbjtAUaho4H8QsZ25RC55cvynwFJe5mW9wX0rSdYsXhp9OA5eIqDs8IVit-QIoUq0vO137qASz3T0W2pfV9yVLjOws2ZqIFg2_rvcMQhbldBN19XCewyp_6_l7_niqHYF8RxZFaZBGP7dwE6UU_KopU1H1D2sYNW28LfOeRBkSwg5e04pXxA9/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%204.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><img alt="Model wears white corduroy wide leg cropped trousers" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiZDJppHxtBbJX5X5VrhEaH4LPO1MhodFwIaZ6Be9cr4sLZfV_VlFyV5XuxS1azNESgf30a9fINS9KwVMJb1xsWZRwtcRc9zMxJkRyJN6zQr-8mimO7NdRNdxsa41hrqDPjewvtCGyccokHORhkGpN97zmye_694Z5Fhs2oU_MG1XW-F1DN423S6Kvg31/s16000/Thea%20wide%20leg%20trousers%20pants%20sewing%20pattern%2014.jpg" title="Thea wide leg trousers sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/thea"><b>GET THE THEA PATTERN</b></a></div><br />
We can’t wait to see your Thea trousers! Do share your sewing process, progress and finished projects with us over on Insta tagging us in <a href="https://instagram.com/tillybuttons" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> and using the hashtag #SewingThea so we can find them.
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We hope you love this pattern as much as we do!
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*****<br />
Fabrics: <a href="https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk/products/plains-pink" target="_blank">Fabrics Galore brushed Panama</a> in ‘sorbet pink’; <a href="https://lullabeefabrics.com/products/corduroy-11-wale-pure-cotton-ivory-fabric?_pos=2&_sid=e4929ce9f&_ss=r" target="_blank">Lullabee 11 wale corduroy</a> in ‘Ivory’; <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1198576/minerva-core-range-heavy-triple-crepe-fabric&variant=1169860" target="_blank">Minerva heavy triple crepe</a> in ‘Azure’<br />
Models: <a href="https://instagram.com/manyee.woo" target="_blank">Man Yee Woo</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/_stuff_i_made" target="_blank">Sinead Dekker</a><br />
Photographer: <a href="https://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />
Hair and make up: Laura Anne at <a href="https://www.thebridalstylists.co.uk/" target="_blank">The Bridal Stylists</a><br />
Samples sewn by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/susanyoungsewing" target="_blank">Susan Young</a><br /></div>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-44055527998928863032024-02-14T12:00:00.094+00:002024-02-26T10:16:36.948+00:00Tilly's next book Mini Makes is coming soon!<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy3Ffjf0e8wBc5tbR1GIiGu0eDth_nxgXvAto7cqS2gweuUoL39qcjeiDboqcjIAH-vf_Bx1-Zsm4dGxSKM5D5wPPRjpgRX0fFXLKgZ8RjblsqUGaeeafhjnmHdFRLLcMkOETvlQVsD60fEoTHAfFT4rosWBbfswqoEBIDvlKVxMEWd1qGanXm5IO4E9B-/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%201.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I'm excited to let you know that my fourth book is coming this spring, and it's all about sewing for little ones!</div><br /><i>
Mini Makes</i> will be published by Quadrille (Hardie Grant) on 25 April 2024 – and you can <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mini-makes">pre-order it now</a>!<div><br /></div><div><img alt="Sew-in woven labels for kids' clothes" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFdDZv5khxRbQosiHuQ1vcpo5qZS6HGNo39_xNaRbB8Nle-AEzc-yDXFmFlZ7zT-jYltCJwUbioTDjDMTdY4rEtvpqNGaWt0HViMYAfaKHAN0hxPbEcvT8Macy-4gqEtpJBO4SgygdvZOx3L94ytoCzYAafHW10f5L7fS-eq5DONcN_XhAMKKhHy5AFakk/s16000/073A3022-1000px.jpg" title="Free gift with pre-orders of Mini Makes book" /></div><div><br /></div><div>
If you pre-order directly from us by 25th March 2024, we'll send you a signed copy of the book plus an exclusive free gift when the book is released. This pair of woven sew-in labels have been designed by us and aren't available anywhere else. Perfect for adding the finishing touch to your mini makes!
<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mini-makes">Pre-order signed book + free gift</a></b></div><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Offer ends 25th March 2024. Your book and gift - along with any other items in the same order - will be dispatched when the book is launched in late April - so if you would like to order other items to arrive sooner, please place a separate order. Offer exclusively available for pre-orders from shop.tillyandthebuttons.com. Gift subject to availability.)</span><br /><br /><img alt="Young boy wears stripe leggings with strawberry knee patches" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCzonhHTNTXzPb0FnirGFP9f_QNpyzh2Co6C6kRmyElEHeAd39sMOo1YNPfEcTYNjFui5QQNJgz_Dr4-tP28JtqbMUwz3vusZzbx7nJZOphcey2LafWAkIfp4w_uVJiz4lvTsJd4qKa8Qj-3LaHpavLgxvhyphenhyphenY2_yS34NZar2FShGTCKDnvfw4vFTmipr0Z/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%202.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><img alt="Boy pulls a funny face wearing lilac stripe t-shirt with green pocket" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmD-_7U9uqKhqkgi6RVEcmRGJtYK9ceTaf_7wROYH3YzkfJCSxNHu8nfY2pNjlNbkCyX-DPLTCE4Xhq5bjmAStROEMIWwri_xPkGcTeVr1PedAu5TaecaTvEAbHli4EsM5jzF2H4xSWbpSq2AaxoLRpwwuEhuG1ykkye7kYBcnAqXpKetdzpy__4menyfc/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%209.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><img alt="Girl holds a watering can wearing lilac Sonny jacket with oversized frill collar" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkvcprotghwFlWO8294nPzPI0tBlZi2GLzpgRd5YYP_2dS6PDwd5YcqB49h8O5Ay3bX6L9gUIe2rndjGYfN7T6lPo42x5sbgCBIhn7xvTU4XblDUUDc_0ff7b6z1KRnoSXyMtRHlzFGVwhafwduQIcguFyCEhBT6b9MErfBJpPYe4NDcMSTBWyAeRZ9Jy/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%208.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /><i>
Mini Makes</i> is packed full of 24 (mostly unisex) projects to sew for children aged 0-12 years.
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The garments are all cute, comfortable and practical – the kinds of clothes kids will want to wear every day. The main version of each pattern is a classic wardrobe staple - mostly mini versions of popular <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/" target="_blank">Tilly and the Buttons womenswear designs</a> - while the variations include the most adorable embellishments and twists. I can’t wait for you to see them!
<br /><br /><img alt="Yellow stripe t-shirt with lilac ribbing and matching dress version" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MvelVBmyRyhiAOPM9R77kfeSGvmH4a3L0ToNWqVdjylulr8lYlsckqp8nestGWo2x86vDT3pe4Fq8_UMg0flp0exQWHnBRIPEvzW2tDLETg9Qwt-YckdHBQS_2YQXyIRhz6y9h-W4kdeJb_5x3-K4m-uee-CMwk02JneIJlnFQBGs05xBTv2PUDhmdeQ/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%2014.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><img alt="Hand sewing polar bear face sweatshirt bodice" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ZoMVJOgPBnFEcnoPYH-3OLNBNiTrkeZTkjwcw0I0FnwqfoVxI4bZyDyuiZmf11QY6c_p2prdsaQ0so4MGdzsU0mspe0Z_dy5trwDZHtNn82LwZU_sFfwNuiFHXOGjXsbx8yIe5t67wfm8MfRc4P5iK56kwJ4dYamRw_gusjmyGXpITvyoqoFoKyYsvKI/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%2015.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /><div>Each chapter takes you step-by-step through making the projects in our signature user-friendly style. The book also features practical tips and inspiration on topics such as choosing fabrics for childrenswear, embellishment ideas, involving kids in sewing, and more, to give you a rounded knowledge of sewing for little ones.
<br /><br /><img alt="Young boy wears blue polar bear face sweatshirt" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDonSbl2MjJwjpNLPFTcQYmXkRaSL3FZ1BvbNdT02VrNfya8gc8dyOrKcZl_OAflCYlmYwsluk-Iaye2PbdqSvcbkR2QwND3Gv7PhFUTNmQTFyZWsJWxiOJdC6E0P3-Y4iYdPfFOtytdq7E8zf9CBkw2KEZp8mJDkFZkf2cfv5PCFtODNw2UgGeifLcd7_/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%2012.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><img alt="Girl smiles at the camera wearing green apple print jersey pyjamas" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6wtQGuJt2pVAl3J3Fzk9O7KUOfoAC7NZNFhZJWrl-nm-ObE9_oh2NqPWLT1yW6jhqM1W5kSBBWWSwTbwZZvwxCFGPPXluGMaG_fmYsyjA-6wXuQxD5VJw7IuHBHDMn8gkRDHJBP3_5J6lQSzu4U5xiGS9vTcDLvMalmtUNp2u0qlFfRZmB7Yyz55Pt93/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%204.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Boy wears colour block corduroy jacket in pink, blue and cream" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijoZiHTMMrezKusU_dHreCygiNxOqGDA8oJxkLd_a2PKMtQXs9sPKBwcWVanXTZoXh7CmYw9ZxM_asVR063suXJOjZpNtjAxqhrpF2CkXF4Ow7zjtwr4ZdePtymvURBlva8KOd5YAbiUX1EBl2cXBWxlmkcIAFinRua_0-3FZtm-yitQ7ykaBtLPdgDxNJ/s16000/Mini%20Makes%20kids%20sewing%20patterns%20book%206.jpg" title="Mini Makes book - Sewing Patterns to Make for Kids Aged 0-12 Years - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /></div><div>The patterns are printed double-sided in the back of the book ready to trace off, or you will be able to download layered PDF patterns to print on A4/Letter or A0 paper if you prefer.<br /><br />
We are so proud of this book and cannot WAIT for you to see it and start sewing with it, whether you’re sewing for friends’ kids, your own kids, grandkids, a bump…</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mini-makes">Pre-order your signed copy of <i>Mini Makes</i></a></span></b></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">*****</div><div style="text-align: left;">Author: Tilly Walnes<br />Published by Quadrille (Hardie Grant)<br />Photography: <a href="https://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a>, assisted by <a href="https://ethiccophotography.co.uk/" target="_blank">Emily Lavarello</a><br />Styling: <a href="https://www.clarenicolson.com/" target="_blank">Clare Nicolson</a><br />Art Director + Designer: <a href="https://clairerochford.co.uk/" target="_blank">Claire Rochford</a></div>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-56360197707606420562023-10-16T12:00:00.271+01:002023-10-16T12:00:00.147+01:00Fitting the Sonny jacket<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0DXdJyI297QnUcyfy2RfduH0XyfWmkbXbynhMjV9EVyDS9AxHfMXu1l-98B4QQ16bNLYhv0FCdAQTe21XKfdFZ11WKmkvrw5B3dSkaeTQHX-96pOzpNKUsJQVKtPUBNn1Ahw3Jm6irOQphBOEo8_5-vR3r7YoVnqsNR8oJIw0-wMVJm4TyQJPMLaKnGg/s1170/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_fitting_01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fitting the Sonny Jacket" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0DXdJyI297QnUcyfy2RfduH0XyfWmkbXbynhMjV9EVyDS9AxHfMXu1l-98B4QQ16bNLYhv0FCdAQTe21XKfdFZ11WKmkvrw5B3dSkaeTQHX-96pOzpNKUsJQVKtPUBNn1Ahw3Jm6irOQphBOEo8_5-vR3r7YoVnqsNR8oJIw0-wMVJm4TyQJPMLaKnGg/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_fitting_01.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny Jacket" /></a></div><br /><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>If you're thinking of making the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/sonny" target="_blank">Sonny jacket</a> and have a few questions about how to get a great fit, you've come to the right place.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sonny is an ultra-versatile jacket with a relaxed, boxy fit, making it simple to fit. Good stuff! However, as we are all wonderfully unique in shape and size, you might want to make a few changes to your pattern pieces to make it suit your body better. Here, I'm going to talk you through the most common fitting adjustments you might want to consider making to your Sonny jacket. </div><div><br /></div><div>In this post we're going to cover: </div><div><p></p><div><ul><li>Making a toile </li><li>Choosing your size </li><li>Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces </li><li>How to combine pattern sizes </li></ul><div><h3><b>Making a toile</b></h3><div>A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock-up of your garment in fabric you don't mind using for testing purposes. A toile is a great opportunity to test the fit of a sewing pattern or practice a technique, like inserting a collar, before you cut into your nice fabric. </div><div><br /></div><div>The Sonny jacket is a relaxed fit, meaning you don't necessarily need to make a toile for fitting purposes. If you're planning on wearing your favourite chunky knit under your Sonny and want to check it will be comfortable, we recommend making a quick toile of the front and back bodice pieces and sleeves to check the fit. Pick a fabric with a similar weight and drape to the fabric you have in mind for your final project. </div><div><br /></div><div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/11/when-why-how-to-make-toile-or-muslin.html" target="_blank">comprehensive blog post about toile making</a>. Go check it out if you want to find out more!</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Body form with bust, waist and hip areas highlighted" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1my38clqMDycSY6CRbxvX6ybSJymGcGvfEi-Uvq1ELWBUbzul5MMBlKKkjyrWC3-y_UaHwNS12Y9LK0CjA7kvhRsV036x-6-vChxqOhvqzJrP8Kf6_QceClLPPb-ls0pSC1iIPopRBHck83sVlUDn-ZPKObVpEG4jOhdDPzPcV8xvHwM2k9DRAyYhnLI/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_02.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><b><br />Choosing your size</b></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><span></span><span><a name='more'></a></span>Sonny includes all 15 sizes in our range. Pattern sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better fit. For this reason, you may notice the proportions change in the measurements chart and the shaping is slightly different on the pattern pieces – sizes 7-15 include room for a larger bust (10cm/4in difference between high bust and full bust, as opposed to 5cm/2in difference on sizes 1-6), and slightly more room at the waist. </div><div><div><br /></div><div>To find your size, using a flexible tape measure, measure the circumference of your:</div><ul><li>Bust - take the measurement at the fullest point i.e. around your nipples </li><li>Waist - where you bend at the side </li></ul><div>Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check. </div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEnxOENLseftMPaTftS3AZD-H-xMHk3Rjk0MyxeS_6m_7ock6NpWkFiKySyP2vPoBjVOD6uzXp592z2qFeDRRgc_GqHgBEqoVX4yMWs787efxq2sTLUUMc_CNLCptWUv9SHF2uVmHsEcZebIVH4b7Wwsnp9DPFXnWV4UoMlNAQcbLdzcWtajawqlWw2w/s866/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_fitting_03.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonny jacket body measurements and finished garment measurements chart" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEnxOENLseftMPaTftS3AZD-H-xMHk3Rjk0MyxeS_6m_7ock6NpWkFiKySyP2vPoBjVOD6uzXp592z2qFeDRRgc_GqHgBEqoVX4yMWs787efxq2sTLUUMc_CNLCptWUv9SHF2uVmHsEcZebIVH4b7Wwsnp9DPFXnWV4UoMlNAQcbLdzcWtajawqlWw2w/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_fitting_03.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />Circle your measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. </div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes (we'll come onto that later!).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A quick note about bust measurements - for some closer fitting patterns, we sometimes advise you to consider doing a full or small bust adjustment to get a great fit across the bust. As this jacket has is a relaxed fit, there's no need to do a bust adjustment and you can choose your normal bust size - result!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3> <div class="separator" style="text-align: left;">Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces </div></h3></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div><div>Our patterns are drafted for a height of around 5"5 (165cm). If you're particularly taller or shorter than this, or know you have a long or short torso, you can change the length of the pattern pieces to fit you better. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/lengthening-or-shortening-pattern-pieces.html" target="_blank">blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces</a>. It talks you through the process, step by step, so go check it out.</div><div><br /></div><div>Remember, if you lengthen or shorten the front bodice pieces, make sure you make the exact same adjustment to the back bodice and facing so the seams end up the same length. Also, if you're lining your jacket using the Sonny lining add-on pattern, remember to do the same adjustments to your lining pieces so they are all the same length. <br /><div><br /></div><div>We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Sonny pattern pieces:</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2_ph-cT8lrEOO5YAcNbfqofZAjMyswzTwBFMy6-4njL9V5aDdFg2RV7tZibvE0jYUsoHLIJkHwYI817nRKp4Slbb7Z4vkIE8wK-UgNC_vvkoG_bZi3AkYW4Cjxu5r4AhpS0YXu5LOxdxZegR4Y7IGSFPUT-tAFY_NqnxGPytau5utM5hpxLcJywH858/s650/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_04.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagrams showing how to lengthen or shorten the Sonny Jacket bodice pattern pieces by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2_ph-cT8lrEOO5YAcNbfqofZAjMyswzTwBFMy6-4njL9V5aDdFg2RV7tZibvE0jYUsoHLIJkHwYI817nRKp4Slbb7Z4vkIE8wK-UgNC_vvkoG_bZi3AkYW4Cjxu5r4AhpS0YXu5LOxdxZegR4Y7IGSFPUT-tAFY_NqnxGPytau5utM5hpxLcJywH858/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_04.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><b><br />1) Centre front bodice, side front bodice and back bodice</b></div><div><br /></div><div>The Sonny jacket has two length options; hip-length and cropped. The hip-length version is designed to sit at the high hip, and the cropped length is 10cm (4in) shorter than that and should sit around the navel. </div><div><br /></div><div>We've included the nape to hem length measurements for both the cropped and hip-length versions of Sonny in the finished garment measurements table, found on the 'find your pattern size' page in the Sonny booklet. </div><div><br /></div><div>Use the lengthen or shorten lines on the bodice if you want to change the length of the bodice to better suit your proportions, or for stylistic reasons. </div><div><br /></div><div>Are you lining your Sonny jacket with the lining add-on pattern? If the answer is yes, do the same alteration you have made to your bodice pattern pieces to the lining ones. For example, if you have lengthened your outer pattern by 2cm on the bodice, do the same to the front and back lining pieces. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmJmbD2qsrlZ1eh6HX47HEKg5x41ueFUUhAw2cVwK0ubNEgYOl_ADq3q5cHv68ONuNnxUHgU8d3we9LPrwpba4Dqh8eQnwsn7pCfqF4a9w1mnuB95XHDLMIyWZRyGVwsj-yBbs47kj4I7Z1d_zY_Azxu-k1uFS8aw9SqG51QzgQ_5E67UGRyMyOtsdK4/s1056/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_05.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagrams showing how to lengthen or shorten the Sonny Jacket facing pattern pieces by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcmJmbD2qsrlZ1eh6HX47HEKg5x41ueFUUhAw2cVwK0ubNEgYOl_ADq3q5cHv68ONuNnxUHgU8d3we9LPrwpba4Dqh8eQnwsn7pCfqF4a9w1mnuB95XHDLMIyWZRyGVwsj-yBbs47kj4I7Z1d_zY_Azxu-k1uFS8aw9SqG51QzgQ_5E67UGRyMyOtsdK4/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_05.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><b><br />2) Facing</b> </div><div><br /></div><div>The facing joins the front bodice. If you've altered the length of your jacket bodice, remember to make the same adjustment to the facing! </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraGf2ngYBXLfmoWAGzwLKNfiRyWFQK6pkcErMTB6TK21lJJ_NC29Tj0kiBuhAnRczY4JxGIHym_ZIUSKR1EHfYtMOrefFaDwPB7XPcs4JRcpXn44DXNzI3sxdcMd4zZxSEbOuOOfl_26Hrn7EDs7UMn2302mUvwCDmGnBiMlcOfgS6K2GG6kKPKyZggg/s692/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_06.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagrams showing how to lengthen or shorten the Sonny Jacket sleeve pattern pieces by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraGf2ngYBXLfmoWAGzwLKNfiRyWFQK6pkcErMTB6TK21lJJ_NC29Tj0kiBuhAnRczY4JxGIHym_ZIUSKR1EHfYtMOrefFaDwPB7XPcs4JRcpXn44DXNzI3sxdcMd4zZxSEbOuOOfl_26Hrn7EDs7UMn2302mUvwCDmGnBiMlcOfgS6K2GG6kKPKyZggg/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_06.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><b><br />3) Sleeve </b></div><div><br /></div><div>We've included the underarm to wrist sleeve measurement in the finished garment measurements chart in the Sonny booklet. If you feel like this measurement looks a bit too long or short for you, or if you often have to change the length of your sleeves, use these lengthen or shorten lines to alter the length. </div><div><br /></div><div>As above, if you are lining your Sonny jacket, do the same pattern alterations you have done to the outer sleeve to the sleeve lining. </div><div><h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdzhyphenhyphenmaK3aQNmO0oBcelKyS0OIDyc2AktcaEOpO-s2d9Fp2HFxXhTY_NHYaM30iMW_pwf_55MUc2fpDZlfkq1b2FzyQlR_vGLZhP8kA03PtUPpOt_1lm8eZ4oz9FjVftyFQkEFuc-nZSt0qhZ5BZlrV3HS8F_scyFk4v7aWf1vTZ0_sHVUEsO3FEt1BC8/s650/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_07.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagrams showing how to combine sizes between the Sonny Jacket pattern pieces by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdzhyphenhyphenmaK3aQNmO0oBcelKyS0OIDyc2AktcaEOpO-s2d9Fp2HFxXhTY_NHYaM30iMW_pwf_55MUc2fpDZlfkq1b2FzyQlR_vGLZhP8kA03PtUPpOt_1lm8eZ4oz9FjVftyFQkEFuc-nZSt0qhZ5BZlrV3HS8F_scyFk4v7aWf1vTZ0_sHVUEsO3FEt1BC8/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_07.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><b><br />How to combine pattern sizes</b></h3><div>If your bust and waist fall in different sizes on the body measurements chart, you can grade between these areas to get a bespoke fit for your exact body measurements. <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/combining-pattern-sizes.html" target="_blank">Check out our blog post which explains how to combine sizes</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>The Sonny jacket is designed to have a relaxed fit with a moderate amount of positive ease, especially in the waist area. The only area you really need to fit is around the bust. There's quite a bit of ease around the waist so you don't have to worry about picking your exact waist size if your bust is a different size, unless there's a difference of more than two sizes. You can find the finished garment measurements in the booklet, which tell you how big the garment will be, to help you make a decision about sizing. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you want to combine sizes between the bust and the waist, on the back and side front bodice pieces, mark 15mm (5/8in) down from the top and 4cm (1 1/2in) up from the bottom of the side seam. Starting from the top marking, draw a smooth curved line to the bottom marking by hand, or using a french curve or pattern master. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>If you want to add a bit more room around the bust, you can also combine sizes on the front bodice seam of the centre front bodice. </div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaYeBB6I5pPMgmbPUmd-pe3EDulPvyx-OkrDGsPude6AnT4c9Yhkkfh5uJEmWm8yk-H7pBFKiWBeNjkFZyhad2LEKE9f67Z-uegNWRf51nTwrEFCP2xIYYQLklfv9HmOfOc8VlKYBmxq20UzpEazKw-Y_v0jaBoQR1nvKbAx7TXMqpELoI4XqjY_izS68/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_08.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Model wearing denim jacket with oversized prairie collar made by the Sonny jacket by Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaYeBB6I5pPMgmbPUmd-pe3EDulPvyx-OkrDGsPude6AnT4c9Yhkkfh5uJEmWm8yk-H7pBFKiWBeNjkFZyhad2LEKE9f67Z-uegNWRf51nTwrEFCP2xIYYQLklfv9HmOfOc8VlKYBmxq20UzpEazKw-Y_v0jaBoQR1nvKbAx7TXMqpELoI4XqjY_izS68/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_Fitting_08.jpg" title="Fitting the Sonny jacket sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />And that's it! I hope you've found this post helpful. Remember, fitting is meant to be fun so don't get too bogged down with achieving the perfect fit. </div><div><br /></div><div>We love stalking Instagram to see your gorgeous makes. Don't forget to tag us <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tillybuttons/" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> using the hashtag <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingsonny">#SewingSonny</a> so we can swoon over what you're making. Happy sewing! </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><p>*****</p><p>Author: Nikki Hoar</p><p>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/whatavmade/" target="_blank">Averil de Souza</a> & <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/03/whatsophiesmaking" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a></p><p>Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a></p><p>MUAH: Simone @ <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thebridalstylists/" target="_blank">The Bridal Stylists</a></p><p>Samples: Sewn by Deborah Wilkins</p><p>Blue denim - <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1133107/minerva-core-range-290gsm-soft-washed-denim-fabric-medium-blue&variant=1096177" target="_blank">Minerva</a></p><p>Corduroy - <a href="https://lullabeefabrics.com/products/corduroy-11-wale-pure-cotton-salmon-fabric" target="_blank">Lullabee Fabrics</a></p></div></div></div></div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-54158117198220570722023-10-11T08:00:00.172+01:002023-10-26T09:47:43.517+01:00NEW! Meet the Sonny jacket and lining add-on patterns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnqC5uQRIzXpl4wkW3r3e9TmEi1z4Zu0CNyWSo9qXEDyojElZmx7GWdW8SKJAaWJAH4E-fTvxM_Vo6L06Fy405n2YcGwkQmYp7MnSKVnMnaBtfGvKwrBkMiugegMb33CUzsOeITD1w2pXFHh_QM0V3l7BQLh7a1Lgs23hC2mf_rGrIDzRvibboNgzANPo/s866/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnqC5uQRIzXpl4wkW3r3e9TmEi1z4Zu0CNyWSo9qXEDyojElZmx7GWdW8SKJAaWJAH4E-fTvxM_Vo6L06Fy405n2YcGwkQmYp7MnSKVnMnaBtfGvKwrBkMiugegMb33CUzsOeITD1w2pXFHh_QM0V3l7BQLh7a1Lgs23hC2mf_rGrIDzRvibboNgzANPo/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_01.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Sewists, are you ready to meet the jacket of your dreams? We're thrilled to introduce you to the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/patterns/products/sonny" target="_blank">Sonny jacket sewing pattern</a> and the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/patterns/products/sonny-lining" target="_blank">Sonny lining add-on pattern</a>!</div><p style="text-align: left;">Ultra versatile, you can make it as a classic jacket that will never go out of style, or try the on-trend prairie collar for Ganni-esque vibes. Sonny can be made as a casual unlined jacket, but if you do want to line it, we have created a separate lining add-on PDF pattern for a polished inside finish. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Read on to find out more about Sonny...</p><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/patterns/products/sonny" target="_blank">ORDER SONNY AND THE SONNY ADD-ON</a></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjihB74Ivob0pMfZGI_oWgf2Tf0Q5QYdW4PIyTT1BQb1L8glipSgR30O9NFOdNlkTmZqEhUKyQYjHIduLjvbhNLUL4laZ4s9QIRANkkb6OsACb6uCSknq8Pc86s7mJfiqH6Ll1LpmXjFiBZwKYFnB7pPRe142wEAFCODJLVL_cxDeIsKhyHOjPFZzTI4/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_19.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing corduroy jacket made using Sonny jacket sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzjihB74Ivob0pMfZGI_oWgf2Tf0Q5QYdW4PIyTT1BQb1L8glipSgR30O9NFOdNlkTmZqEhUKyQYjHIduLjvbhNLUL4laZ4s9QIRANkkb6OsACb6uCSknq8Pc86s7mJfiqH6Ll1LpmXjFiBZwKYFnB7pPRe142wEAFCODJLVL_cxDeIsKhyHOjPFZzTI4/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_19.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLMMaUTQKz6M7hf2zkkIR_8AJVVwwrELr9VUeL1p4d4LfmcNUu7BLnuu8PWgLUIiUUdYIdB1VHVsrhEQG0Ygbx7qZFEglqIOFUzrB8ou_Oc7BKL1V4TcDo65OKF048W0NqzU6lnUoFklXdATbl8XyP_Dnr1Q0nBZexWktOftKmblZOnPhn6v1f4RirNes/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_04.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Model wearing a lined denim jacket with oversized prairie collar - made using the Sonny jacket pattern" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLMMaUTQKz6M7hf2zkkIR_8AJVVwwrELr9VUeL1p4d4LfmcNUu7BLnuu8PWgLUIiUUdYIdB1VHVsrhEQG0Ygbx7qZFEglqIOFUzrB8ou_Oc7BKL1V4TcDo65OKF048W0NqzU6lnUoFklXdATbl8XyP_Dnr1Q0nBZexWktOftKmblZOnPhn6v1f4RirNes/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_04.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2zkp4V0yc7Z_rrJhWxKpl1gMOiK7A0FPO9nraTaWoa3N46ddD7jAn4XmZDMPm4Q7ziO2funT9Rd0VOvC2BXg0-Hd1M4YGjnN-GFgR85-DKXOm9FI4nU84w8XGACZyPj4pnJz2aeLy6bTqp3FqR9Xbr_28F36pU6UTTDLkjMZgyprtdDDrxUyx8ZFI-hI/s866/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_05.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Technical drawing for Sonny jacket pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2zkp4V0yc7Z_rrJhWxKpl1gMOiK7A0FPO9nraTaWoa3N46ddD7jAn4XmZDMPm4Q7ziO2funT9Rd0VOvC2BXg0-Hd1M4YGjnN-GFgR85-DKXOm9FI4nU84w8XGACZyPj4pnJz2aeLy6bTqp3FqR9Xbr_28F36pU6UTTDLkjMZgyprtdDDrxUyx8ZFI-hI/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_05.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: center;">THE PATTERN DESIGN </h3><p>One of the things we love the best about Sonny is how different it can look depending on which version you make and what fabric you use. You can go utility style with a classic pointed collar, or make a designer-style jacket with the on-trend frill prairie collar. Let's take a look at Sonny's details:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Boxy fit bodice with drop shoulders and princess seams creating gentle shaping at the bust </li><li>Choice of pointed collar or oversized frill collar </li><li>Separate yokes, forward shoulder seams and front panels </li><li>Optional chest pockets and flaps </li><li>Easy-to-sew straight sleeves </li><li>Choice of hip-length or cropped hemlines </li><li>Mock flat felled seams create a durable finish</li></ul><div>The Sonny lining add-on pattern includes bodice and sleeve lining pattern pieces to compliment all versions of the Sonny jacket, as well as a hanging loop so you can display your gorgeous creation with pride. </div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/patterns/products/sonny" target="_blank">ORDER SONNY AND THE SONNY ADD-ON</a></h3></div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu71oNPL7Cx1uX_44YPPE8NwxyJVZ5SkYIcUGLosU5c8hQR2Z6aij339QFROlKphlfQGFd2ohVBv8U8gSniLtXBo_8v7mmXdk18FEBhy_RhFxJ-0FfKaXLdlie8gh9tjb7O-AM65VFFY2QvdBSU14jyiAIZXgCHe1EYZWmRN_hKCW4V8ovqdUOcVfV_IY/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_07.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu71oNPL7Cx1uX_44YPPE8NwxyJVZ5SkYIcUGLosU5c8hQR2Z6aij339QFROlKphlfQGFd2ohVBv8U8gSniLtXBo_8v7mmXdk18FEBhy_RhFxJ-0FfKaXLdlie8gh9tjb7O-AM65VFFY2QvdBSU14jyiAIZXgCHe1EYZWmRN_hKCW4V8ovqdUOcVfV_IY/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_07.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing corduory jacket made from Sonny jacket pattern" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu71oNPL7Cx1uX_44YPPE8NwxyJVZ5SkYIcUGLosU5c8hQR2Z6aij339QFROlKphlfQGFd2ohVBv8U8gSniLtXBo_8v7mmXdk18FEBhy_RhFxJ-0FfKaXLdlie8gh9tjb7O-AM65VFFY2QvdBSU14jyiAIZXgCHe1EYZWmRN_hKCW4V8ovqdUOcVfV_IY/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_07.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiBbm8IPBmElODkqDR8lpXEoe3aBVdhKIvldDKoUn8ghaPe66TckOuT4F_1PK-FN_m4nr3UzNVVwV2wBbqQhP79w6fi_3lHmZdNJkjsHWx9aiX8cYzPHc-pZNM31hIwcbjixlyUeQJ9tNvuLQ4mJHQWxx5l3d8exV69uW-w_LiRmzGj7Q_4gtnMtzjkx4/s983/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_08.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img alt="Back view of plus size model wearing corduroy jacket - made using Sonny jacket sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="983" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiBbm8IPBmElODkqDR8lpXEoe3aBVdhKIvldDKoUn8ghaPe66TckOuT4F_1PK-FN_m4nr3UzNVVwV2wBbqQhP79w6fi_3lHmZdNJkjsHWx9aiX8cYzPHc-pZNM31hIwcbjixlyUeQJ9tNvuLQ4mJHQWxx5l3d8exV69uW-w_LiRmzGj7Q_4gtnMtzjkx4/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_08.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">SIZING AND FORMATS</div></h3><div><p>Both the Sonny jacket and lining are available<b> </b>in <b>sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62. </b>The full size range is included in each pattern. Sizes UK 6-16 and 18-34 are created and graded for a different set of proportions, so you will notice there is more shaping on the larger pattern sizes to account for a fuller bust.</p><p>The Sonny jacket pattern is available either <b>printed or PDF</b>,<b> </b>and the lining add-on is available as a <b>PDF download only</b>. </p><p>Order the Sonny jacket printed sewing pattern and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use again and again without it tearing or scrunching up. </p><p></p><p>The Sonny lining add-on pattern and Sonny jacket are available as an instant PDF download. You'll get an email straight after purchase with a PDF to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. Need further help? <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/01/how-to-use-digital-sewing-patterns.html" target="_blank">Read our guide to using PDFs</a>.</p><p>Whichever format you choose, the pattern will be accompanied by our award-winning instructions with step-by-step colour photos to guide you through the project. The pattern pieces themselves are clearly labelled so you can see which seam is which and how they go together. </p><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/patterns/products/sonny" target="_blank">ORDER SONNY AND THE SONNY ADD-ON</a></h3><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhROO_WuNmHCMFnhBd4yNBNWO0pBh65X3FitHyULMSh1wfbNaZ2wHQWp9CSzV74ojcwNgrOglTVNwEKmE0cjbkB5YpKPO_O6DuFc875OoSw7lDxiSzWJmijI-zNEKc6DfLqO1OyiHGrR-CVWFM0pcOx4UpcBNMOF0KMma23avf7ohIKJ0Zf_YhaIDwc3-Q/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_11.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Close up of model wearing jacket with oversized prairie collar made using Sonny jacket sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhROO_WuNmHCMFnhBd4yNBNWO0pBh65X3FitHyULMSh1wfbNaZ2wHQWp9CSzV74ojcwNgrOglTVNwEKmE0cjbkB5YpKPO_O6DuFc875OoSw7lDxiSzWJmijI-zNEKc6DfLqO1OyiHGrR-CVWFM0pcOx4UpcBNMOF0KMma23avf7ohIKJ0Zf_YhaIDwc3-Q/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_11.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><img alt="Hand holding denim jacket with oversized prairie collar on a hanger, made using the Sonny jacket pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxak6LvzIqWvtjQRsCf8nAu770sNlzhnladeIe4aiKBPJFGEwvuIHBa2zqPL1NqtvF0zWW9c164E4bpvvs2xHNDSpgTAJQXUeRsjW2hywhIXw4MZIFM3etwuhVfpx6ZUilMXKQwSCnA0IPCCyh6G_BttKoac9c6rE2rseID0Vq-Tl55fShX0L4Ggwdb6-/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_13.jpg" style="text-align: left;" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: center;">FABRICS & SUPPLIES</h3><p>Sonny works best with medium- to heavy-weight fabrics that hold their shape. Think denim, twill, corduroy, jacquard or wool.</p><p>If you're making the prairie collar version with collar frill, make sure the fabric is light enough to gather - ideally you will be gathering up two layers of frill fabric at once, but if the fabric is struggling you could sew gather stitches on each layer separately. Another option is to use a different fabric for the collar frill, allowing you to experiment with different textures and patterns. </p><p>If you're lining your jacket using the Sonny add-on pattern, use slippery lining fabrics such as cupro (Bemberg), viscose (rayon), acetate or polyester lining. Alternatively, you can line the sleeves in lining fabric and use a cotton lawn, viscose or teddy/sherpa fleece for the bodice lining.</p><p>We know some makers are planning to make Sonny as a blouse instead of a jacket - we are excited to see it! If you want to try this, use something like a cotton lawn or even a more drapey viscose, lengthen the pattern, and add an elastic channel to the ends of the sleeves.</p><h3 style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojzF4UnMcj2rbkFcBBIxbaLSBdIvEl-w95WkYaVuoaWDpWgFG57xDr24kG-0omnBhgVM2Q-6uEtPMdPGUaWghIoM4vlve_IrlOllmRtZulTkZyhAZNzRQUgShJCis5xmBb1pPViMnGltbU9PAszOn9ZtCHPDnf5xgm45LBCReSJ3RdWq1K7WuTLzF2BM/s975/Sonny%20launch_14.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Hand holding lined jacket up, made using Sonny jacket and lining add-on patterns" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojzF4UnMcj2rbkFcBBIxbaLSBdIvEl-w95WkYaVuoaWDpWgFG57xDr24kG-0omnBhgVM2Q-6uEtPMdPGUaWghIoM4vlve_IrlOllmRtZulTkZyhAZNzRQUgShJCis5xmBb1pPViMnGltbU9PAszOn9ZtCHPDnf5xgm45LBCReSJ3RdWq1K7WuTLzF2BM/s16000/Sonny%20launch_14.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzDpj7TBYOiqf3SALJAcbVdP0t6dbWJBEVXxiUEJnI04wkD1e0sf4e1E7QTz4G3wGLtAQ4PlTRJV2vfmE-W9YTTEWRUyj0tr3C_1K1Q8jslXzytr3mDLGWv60TYAArAvSnv9nQHg_oKb6DqKZXVRN_Tf3U0wkFbDIgOProgkqSjtRjlBKhjtmqe9e7nY/s650/Sonny%20launch_16.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Flat lay of lined denim jacket with oversized prairie collar on pink background" border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzDpj7TBYOiqf3SALJAcbVdP0t6dbWJBEVXxiUEJnI04wkD1e0sf4e1E7QTz4G3wGLtAQ4PlTRJV2vfmE-W9YTTEWRUyj0tr3C_1K1Q8jslXzytr3mDLGWv60TYAArAvSnv9nQHg_oKb6DqKZXVRN_Tf3U0wkFbDIgOProgkqSjtRjlBKhjtmqe9e7nY/s16000/Sonny%20launch_16.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><br />TIPS & TUTORIALS</h3><p>We have labelled Sonny as suitable for "confident beginners". While making a jacket may seem daunting, it's actually just a series of relatively simple steps. The trickiest bit is <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2021/10/tillys-tips-for-perfect-buttons.html" target="_blank">sewing buttonholes</a>, but we have lots of tips for that! You will be supported all the way with our clear instructions, and if there are any techniques you aren't sure about, you'll find lots of extra help on a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/sonny.html" target="_blank">dedicated space on the blog</a>.</p><p>If you're yet to line any outerwear on your sewing journey, the Sonny lining add-on is the perfect place to start. We did <i>a lot</i> of research and development to hone our instructions and you'll be amazed at the final result! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzIXxeHnKTOpYK2wuqyqRxBmGtB2Ep76keA8F9YuHUTip2oAGRbkHlDQGAWh76VTI-9kebJxeyN4wHrduYiexKGMyOZLjRBZVh7k8fRc8GAfKI1LGSoslCPkkRCV_Ml-l6h45lEldqwsUbKlSqnqwUfqhgj2BExyZxvH6fBbRVkhe9kFTpUJSy570O-_k/s963/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_17.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing corduroy jacket made using the Sonny sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="963" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzIXxeHnKTOpYK2wuqyqRxBmGtB2Ep76keA8F9YuHUTip2oAGRbkHlDQGAWh76VTI-9kebJxeyN4wHrduYiexKGMyOZLjRBZVh7k8fRc8GAfKI1LGSoslCPkkRCV_Ml-l6h45lEldqwsUbKlSqnqwUfqhgj2BExyZxvH6fBbRVkhe9kFTpUJSy570O-_k/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_17.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-scs_foQTs7IUhaqGtwcsAtKmRVf8NI-8pGh7zKYIGmaqAsOCF4PUs4rNEFkk7Z3bsP6BJcYupGFgQR4E7alfRt-SFBXUkxMGUWvxWhEQyznEWmICDPeuaI6CrUpnDG6yiA5E9EePk14aQS8pYOC7U0kraBv9hXD0uDcNJmxoerLHRGlAkvdyl_gNgs/s975/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_18.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Model flicking her hair wearing denim jacket made using Sonny jacket sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-scs_foQTs7IUhaqGtwcsAtKmRVf8NI-8pGh7zKYIGmaqAsOCF4PUs4rNEFkk7Z3bsP6BJcYupGFgQR4E7alfRt-SFBXUkxMGUWvxWhEQyznEWmICDPeuaI6CrUpnDG6yiA5E9EePk14aQS8pYOC7U0kraBv9hXD0uDcNJmxoerLHRGlAkvdyl_gNgs/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Sonny_Jacket_sewing_pattern_blog_18.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Sonny Jacket sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div>We are looking forward to seeing your Sonny jackets - both in-progress shots and finished makes. Don't forget to tag us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tillybuttons/" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> using the hashtag <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingsonny">#SewingSonny</a> so we can swoon over what you're making. Happy sewing! <p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" /></p><p>*****</p><p>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/whatavmade/" target="_blank">Averil de Souza</a> & <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/03/whatsophiesmaking" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a><br />Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />MUAH: Simone @ <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thebridalstylists/" target="_blank">The Bridal Stylists</a><br />Samples: Sewn by Deborah Wilkins</p><p>Blue denim - <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1133107/minerva-core-range-290gsm-soft-washed-denim-fabric-medium-blue&variant=1096177" target="_blank">Minerva</a><br />Corduroy - <a href="https://lullabeefabrics.com/products/corduroy-11-wale-pure-cotton-salmon-fabric" target="_blank">Lullabee Fabrics</a><br /><br /></p></div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-55853494673938640982023-07-19T12:00:00.164+01:002023-07-19T12:00:00.129+01:00Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools (Guest Post by Samantha Purple Sewing Cloud)<p><img alt="Flatlay of pink cutting mat with sewing tools laid out and title text Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwz25xbnV8j6iY2zxYtS2rYhL64VDgtQ19wCQFeGkuRdmCs6ILje8yVyTjfzHYswSw-BxYx_99_pjyY-L71GSKox3bFzkDxp5jkmf-2RoBuTG6pWw4182mLotX4C32f2Okir_dK-41KJibfErQEFvywuniOZU5JL0hbJZKQn763j6Q2JkhKBy1DHTAXDDl/s16000/Sewing-with-disabilities-accessible-sewing-tools.jpg" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">There’s a whole world of amazing sewing tools out there that have been designed to make your crafting easier. To celebrate Disability Pride Month, we’ve commissioned Samantha Waude from @PurpleSewingCloud – who you may recognise as a Tilly and the Buttons model from <i><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/make-it-simple" target="_blank">Make It Simple</a></i> and <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/agnes">Agnes</a> – to share her top five accessible sewing tools. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div>Whether you consider yourself to have disabilities or not, you will want to get yourself some of these! Over to Sam…<br /><br /><img alt="Samantha is a white woman with curly dark hair smiling at the camera and posing with accessible sewing tools" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoiG0iVxg83ev0Ax8Z61sqgae1kyzTJKytgPNNfR47yjz7KBbwKc1RBFc9rYTLWBpW1awYySx2ZswsWRJ0_UXaViNs000yvAN9oyXxRVG2YUz4r23-hU5Y82OVeoYZ_R7KjORE2gk0A2EEYSHdSOLSSgZ47TFz-pI89hmcP_ZRGwVO20986DyebdCBDKl_/s16000/Disabled%20sewing%20accessible%20tools%205.jpg" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /></div><div><br />
“Hi, I’m Samantha, I’m feel very excited to be invited by Tilly to write this guest blog post about my top five sewing tools. </div><div><br /></div><div>As a sewist with disabilities, my sewing tools are very important to me. Over the years I’ve curated a collection that works best for my needs and disabilities - without them I wouldn’t be able to sew and create a beautiful wardrobe of clothes that make me smile.
<br /><br />
I’ve chosen my top five tools that I use every time I sew and are essential to me. These tools will work for everybody too, not just for people with disabilities - so keep reading or watch my video!<br /><br /><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/skUKbjV8E2c" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe>
<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><img alt="Easy grip pins on a magnetic pin dish, the heads all pointing around the edge" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDW6ayZtfEYQ30uPwEodmIzy8Cp5gJGVEEWl46D5iKk8aN4ca9XFrPptygdwyZxSA0bZqR7CghLqEjQ_oh_TXunj6vtSUlkJgEKqAcyoJcIDrFDINZTzhFcaosO9FlExfwLPOpWtxdZvyaei78G6vYvdQVkyrO4-bG_zcAqZIrmds6jXfSkQxOfMMW9lO/s16000/Disabled%20sewing%20accessible%20tools%2010.jpg" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">1. <a href="https://sewmesunshine.co.uk/collections/ergonomic-accessible-sewing-tools/products/easy-grasp-pins-prym" target="_blank">Prym Easy grip pins</a></h4><div><br /></div>The large heads on these pins make them really easy to grip. This helps with low dexterity, low grip or numbness in the hands.</div><div><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;">
2. <a href="https://quiltdirect.co.uk/products/zirkel-magnetic-pin-holders" target="_blank">Zirkel magnetic pin dish</a></h4><div><br /></div>The pin dish they're on is a life changer! On a normal magnetic pin dish, the pins can end up in a mess, making them difficult to pick up without stabbing yourself. With this one, the pin heads are splayed around in a circular formation, the pin heads always around the outside, which makes them much easier to pick up. It makes my sewing easier and safer. </div><div><br /><h4><img alt="Snips and easy grip pins on a pink cutting mat" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiPPGOUEGFsJcPXBb6yZQsNrALP7ZJ7ZoakwqjY2p_XbcLLHnTNxGsw_jemgEAf24lG2qGEJC4KID93O4CExR0O-a9kHnBi2oYXBx1AsPvnAMdq6PjHOl6vxP9iJxgNDiRg7U5TUJAeweqB4Ita5gAd9GYhRD1fAhM2rn_zwxCD0Z9tPvhHx9UKfxqmL5uB=s16000" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">3. <a href="https://www.williamgee.co.uk/shop/fiskars-easy-action-micro-tip-softgrip-scissors-16cm/" target="_blank">Fiskars easy grip snips</a></h4><div><br /></div>Snips are my most heavily-used tool - for trimming threads, notches, corners and more - so they need to be easy for me to pick up. These ones are spring-loaded, and my fingers go around the non-slip rubberised handle rather than in holes, making them simple to use. They're also incredibly sharp and precise.<br /><h4 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">
4. <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1151167/prym-silicone-iron-rest" target="_blank">Silicone iron mat</a></h4><div><br /></div>I place this next to me on my ironing board and rest my iron on it when I need to put it down. It avoids me having to tilt the iron up and down at an angle, which put strain on my arm and shoulder.</div><div><br /><h4><img alt="Purple needle threading tool on pink cutting ma" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyAIr3tpD_1NgvnDjQMkP60t05ajyr3q7Xiyh-Y2dGnTeZrsqIj8BkTp3ms5rl-3RPJV3V9fJSVoUPs5G7IIczqTzt9TmmE2uaejel0bILAHmkejSf3cdtBi8eoCOqg_IqXhqEsNER4a_uYYy2TaTxGDYy23beaXwVBwa8SGzruNfQIYhTr8G9fSz-iilh/s16000/Disabled%20sewing%20accessible%20tools%2013.jpg" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">5. <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1133877/clover-desk-top-needle-threaders-pink&variant=1099942" target="_blank">Clover desktop needle threader</a></h4><div><br /></div>I've tried various needle threader tools over the years and this is my favourite. To thread a hand sewing needle, all you need to do is insert the needle in the hole, lay the thread over the tool, push down on the lever, and it threads the eye of the needle like magic. It's great with people with vision difficulties, dexterity or grip issues, children, or just anyone who wants to make their life easier.<br /><br />So those are my top five accessible sewing tools. Everyone’s disabilities and bodies are different but these are what works best for me - I hope you will be able to find something that works for your needs too. Sewing should be fun and, if there’s ever any part that's frustrating and can be easily changed with a new or adapted tool, I highly recommend it. <div><br /></div><div>If you're hunting for a new accessible tool, or having any problems with a specific task, please feel free to send me a message <a href="https://www.instagram.com/purplesewingcloud" target="_blank">via Instagram</a> and I’ll be happy to help.”</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><img alt="Sewing tools on a pink cutting mat" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigoY7yxjKXGiYzsUP_39ggXWv1bum6ipEBTv_PsbGhp_dILogphpZ24RfKqW6-nL5YGIqO6geEVXBzhbPY8kDdEInE7cpNHzgy0AVSbvW5lNDr9A-w0soPHaMGDsQ3B-QwQpPsyXiKV6EcUCKchWEM3AuoVbX70i5hjW6QLYpu6rhAgHSUx7vDSIFwTu3a/s16000/Disabled%20sewing%20accessible%20tools%2012.jpg" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /></div><div><img alt="Samantha is a white woman with curly dark hair smiling at the camera and posing with accessible sewing tools" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqj9BY53SPt_RZk9Yfh4TUFHJEkhPA83eim82Bmfny59zCCTG3d4mh7TYPpqsK0JUS_CUNiW9e2Rp3rSPJOhTNE5QXAWf6RC6M7Q_jHSlDwl8rt0bd5UcJoGxSQiwgCvtxlmPwqhjesvr2-COwrPXsK65qHOo490IHMvUYuqCdMcimA5s63TNKPdtoEpwe/s16000/Disabled%20sewing%20accessible%20tools%206.jpg" title="Sewing with Disabilities: Five Accessible Tools" /><br /><div><br /></div><div>*****<br /><br />
Author, video and photos: Samantha Waude </div><div>Samantha is wearing a <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel">Mabel dress</a> in Liberty Tana lawn</div></div></div><span><br /></span>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-21142934241989790202023-07-05T12:00:00.240+01:002023-07-05T12:21:15.728+01:00How to Embroider Flowers on Your Clothing<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="How to embroider flowers on your clothing" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWfWqKvQnJvZ6JETkL7ptUkVP8Pnm_7oK3ZC2zj_q6rJHwjwCWrJQ5iSxQbSwdJ8WrEiPZSj1C_acvDLgMf3_a1yxV9c4o5DmSSWQC64ZmN33JD-2oyPgyBk2KLOabN3aNDkZ7ZNci4rAn6u3ezv_3Ig0VSNKGI84G1J5Z_EzAIrqdxTY8ZvHNQkIHWOr9/s16000/How-to-embroider-flowers-on-your-clothing.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Detail of flowers in different colours embroidered onto a white gauze blouse" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhp_Yf0SlDumNuLhcWZMcgxyIvShh2RWF9gHFBtuiLQxst4y-s5W8lt_ZprAR0DdnVb-nQ2K7WJ1GDVbkWouM3P_yV5WRBnX3LYzPdJSVyC7EARRSmBqva940pPb9Iw4cu8Vg9K0P4nT4FU6acGIwcip_PaPaSg7XfpH69tkvSslqBXj6GPV7I2gKnShZ/s16000/Embroidery%20flowers%20tutorial%203.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Have I ever told you how much I love embroidery? I find the process itself so soothing, and the perfect way to unwind after a long day. And the result is such a pretty way of embellishing both ready-to-wear and me-made clothing to make them truly special.</div><br />
Ever since I first designed the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse sewing pattern</a>, I’ve had the idea in my head for a version with a flower-embroidered yoke – earlier this summer I turned this dream into a reality.<br /><br />
If you’d like to create a similar effect, I’m going to show you how to embroider flowers on your clothing. This tutorial is simple enough for embroidery beginners, and will teach you a few different stitches along the way – <b>lazy daisy stitch</b> for the petals, <b>French knots</b> for the centres, <b>fishbone stitch</b> for the leaves and <b>back stitch</b> for the stems.<br /><br />
Confession: I’m not the world’s neatest or most patient hand stitcher, but I adore the result regardless. So, even if you’re not the most confident embroiderer, I’d still encourage you to give it a go!<div><br /></div><div><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ij5s2UERr-0" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div>[In the intro I accidentally said "satin stitch" but I meant "fishbone stitch" - oops!]<br /><br /><img alt="A middle aged woman with short brunette hair wears a white gauze blouse with flowers embroidered on the yoke" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQ5deYvs5MyCqkDq7Zsnt5-EHsCpn3elX5lkMES0T5-vvVj8D8cVPOl_jBmMZMcM_WuHicxqz9uAGt3GrPw4IRBEXHGpbk8G3RNOohVf6yrGzzH-YXxgTRQfgNWMVFqQz9TIeci9StIffKhczVNef_Ljx8RGe-HD7JiqYpWeYjiN5FqWbYBcEuJv1Yf4y/s16000/Tilly-embroidered-Marnie-blouse-5.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><img alt="A middle aged woman with short brunette hair wears a white gauze blouse with flowers embroidered on the yoke" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFukCEbIUKYHJECUGqOjKbBI9ebgOeiSypRv2B2WH2uTjD3AtGB0_sacoTUqDeBGkTfLc5b3U3soI6PHUXtT4aVrRj2UUcmRqVtmkH3qsa8pR_BzPdPA0-uz9X3X5ne9xQLJflj34JtNvoRfZeU7pD-Ll3zUzJtPp3Sqwq2kxZSX8HuF-YiRENNjSIQMSk/s16000/Tilly-embroidered-Marnie-blouse-3.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><br /><div><h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span><a name='more'></a></span>What areas of clothing can you embroider?</h4><br />
Pretty much anything really! Some of my own recent embroidery projects include the pocket of my <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2020/04/tillys-daisy-pocket-jessa-jeans.html" target="_blank">Jessa jeans</a>, the sleeves of my <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2022/08/tillys-embroidered-puff-sleeve-indigo.html" target="_blank">Indigo dress</a>, and this, the yoke of a <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse</a>. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, I would pick a small area like this rather than a larger pattern piece.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Embroidery supplies including floss, needle, hoop, stabiliser, Frixion pen" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqr3peN7ZW-XWTFeY9K-a4Od8cla2BFcyj4lNETxsArPQVfy1q6SYPvflJmAqLbGBOGc1pz-ZaU06whKpdF9LSC9Rf0hHd9oRni_1xELQ1vuXLqngHKI7dBXFHgSzwZJ-EZZwe6aYt02Twwoiu0YO3Q4so8aSk2MZBjRKkjpzsud_RMfXyOGWDNBCG3bDw/s16000/Embroidery%20flowers%20tutorial%205.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">
What supplies do you need for embroidery?</h4><br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>
Embroidery floss (thread) in your chosen colours</li><li>
Embroidery needle</li><li>
Small embroidery hoop</li><li>Embroidery stabiliser – to help stop the fabric stretching, puckering or otherwise distorting as you stitch it. You can use
water-soluble, tear-away or cut-away stabiliser, and remove it once you’ve
finished stitching</li><li>
Small scissors</li><li>
Optional: Pencil, chalk pencil, removable pen (such as Frixion pen) or
embroidery transfer paper</li></ul><div><br /></div><img alt="Traced off sewing pattern piece with embroidery design drawn on" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZX10lfKqMaX9HQsr2ID0gD4tLnmQze3lfikRGuWnLdZ73TvTV0M6BWAtVlbXOfEe-LSZu3uiiw2shW_V5VUFwDk0fROgl-TNxHqLgWKiHd-fJeB7IPnkkIt1CrHDJCYQK7Ur_XW6vgPhQWQ7PtQSsk6eM2fZO-OA_auGxePPX4gb4oBapmMCjvLP3FwN/s16000/Embroidery%20flowers%20tutorial%207.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;">
How do you start your embroidery?</h4><br />
I often freestyle my embroidery designs, but for this project I plotted it out on paper first. I traced off a copy of the pattern piece, marked on the stitching lines (15mm or 5/8in from the raw edge) to get a sense of what the finished shape will be once sewn, then sketched out my design.
<br /><br />
For my flowers, I drew a small circle for the centre, with eight lines for the petals surrounding it. For the stems, I drew simple curved lines, and for my leaves I sketched the outline plus central vein.<br /><br /><img alt="Tracing embroidery design onto fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOkNTEUOLMq_XlyVSr6alwLPjgRiehJxXYS9rzk3Xdp5x5BczLs7K5jYEvDiNXcccR9EHRF6trdMqIbe5Cl0G_CdH7WLm-wfGwanVjwRU_5uhzE6ZdpJrzPfhCOsRDWeBLjkVr_nVclKyX8aiUGXJv3QKcmH6MiUypPoWwqH8g4_uxddwVS-ciCX05gn8/s16000/Embroidery%20flowers%20tutorial%208.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /><br /><br />
Once I was happy with the design, I transferred it onto the fabric. If the piece you’re embroidering is smaller than the hoop, you can draw the pattern piece onto fabric and embroider it before you cut the pattern outlines. This is what I did for the front yoke of my Marnie blouse.
<br /><br />
Before you put it in the hoop, lightly draw or trace your design onto the right side of the fabric in chalk pencil or removable pen. Alternatively, you can use carbon transfer paper to trace a design onto the fabric. Whatever you use, make sure you test it on a scrap to check it comes out of your fabric!
<br /><br /><img alt="Embroidery supplies including hoop, needle, floss" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlAHeYlzE4u6hvlMM-NzYYoMsFkllxiK1oYmtyTwVX6lsR3i-M44Iw5NeKvf_7fIkxeNrpyx1t9RFMGdNU4sf6k98m6R5CZwRgWxXb5u4wdKmSwvUE9hYNjMjPFlX4coXMomqnVc7bYZprUACw-fd2mx9yNGbl0c3ZfK8m0JHCM-Tdtx8Fw2ir27j0n9v/s16000/Embroidery%20flowers%20tutorial%209.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /><div><br />Cut some stabiliser a little larger than your design, and pin it to the wrong side of the fabric, behind the design.<br /><br />
Loosen the screw on the hoop until the inner hoop is loose enough to remove. Place your fabric right side up on the inner hoop, and place the outer hoop over it. Pull the fabric taut, but without stretching the fabric too much, and tighten the screw to hold it in place.<br /><br />
For my blouse I used double gauze and decided to keep the natural crinkle texture of the design, so I didn’t actually pull my fabric very taut at all. If you’re using jersey or another stretchy fabric, again, don’t stretch it out. If your design is bigger than the hoop, you can embroider one part at a time.
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Cut a forearm’s length of embroidery floss in the colour you want for your first flower petals – any more than that and your thread is likely to knot up in the wrong places. Embroidery floss comprises six strands – you can sew with all six to create bold stitches, or separate them out to create finer stitches. For my flowers, I’m using all six strands.
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Thread the floss onto the needle. If you’re struggling to get the ends through the eye of the needle, you can try the old snip-saliva-squish method, or a little trick I learnt from Nerrisa of The Bargello Edit is to put the ends in a tiny, folded strip of paper, then insert the paper through the eye of the needle. Genius! Tie a double or triple knot in the end. I’m using a triple knot as my fabric has a looser weave.
<br /><br /><img alt="Lazy daisy stitch embroidery tutorial" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLSHS-BGzY2noBRsb8eUILxIENyjuDMAgXqZ4wDEgK6n5rhfew3e6jZ6_e9PCafX11v4R93tTSvp6JupgpdN33DzoQZnGBz0FbSfB_D_IXfO4YoBHq2K2V_meXGJJbFwslgvv9OT-JEW0P1rH0f-Uc4Cjqq9-mf01-CEtUdn5_IFeDgmbP4ySuDl0H9gFz/s16000/Lazy-daisy-stitch.jpg" title="How to sew lazy daisy stitch - embroidery tutorial" /><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;">
How to sew lazy daisy stitch</h4><br />
We’re going to sew the petals of the flower using “lazy daisy stitch”.<br /><br />
Starting at the base of one petal, insert the needle through the fabric from back to front – pull the floss all the way through so the knot is sitting taut at the back of the fabric. <br /><br />
Insert the needle from front to back next to the point where the thread comes out – pull it through, this time leaving a loop of thread.
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Insert the needle from back to front where you want the tip of the first petal to be, catching the loop in the needle. Pull the thread taut, then insert it back through the fabric just above where the last stitch came out (the tip of the petal), to secure the petal in place.
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You can leave the petal like this if you want just the outline, or take another stitch or three from the base to the tip of the petal to fill it in.
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Make the second petal next to the first petal using the same technique, and continue around until you have your whole flower.
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Make sure you’re pulling the floss right up to the back of the fabric each time, and take care not to catch another part of the fabric in the stitches. If you do make a mistake, you can pull out the threads and try again.
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Once you’ve finished your flower, secure the thread with a double or triple knot at the back of the fabric and snip the end of the thread. I like to leave a little tail of thread to stop it unravelling.
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You may want to sew the rest of your flowers’ petals now – particularly if you’re using the same colour floss – or you can move on to the centres of the flowers – the stigma (yes, I had to google that) – if you can’t wait…
<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="French knot embroidery tutorial" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1FJ5nHppDkKmubXJk4aw48EDWhj23GDoAjSx6Ibb8hRzRRJe3zvh6Hs0KKjEID1wm1yJLUyQAzorNEyadERvfJAWXrNtvlFYVr4hdg2YcqzVPeHdKQUFU34RyFMNIjzF3wQ7G6loL4p3AsNUIO0HeZytVLkQKquayQcOEsAvSXAaPa_JPylf87oi6S57/s16000/French-knot.jpg" title="How to sew French knots - embroidery tutorial" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">
How to sew French knots</h4><br />
To make the flower centres, we’ll create French knots.
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At the centre of the flower, insert the needle through the fabric from back to front, pulling it taut right up to the knot.
Wrap the thread around the needle four to six times, depending on how big you want the knot to be. You can experiment here and snip it out if you’re not happy with your first attempt.<br /><br />
Insert the needle halfway back through the fabric just next to the point that the stitch came up through (not in exactly the same place or the thread will just come out). <br /><br />
Pull the thread wraps down to the bottom of the needle, then hold the thread taut as you pull the needle and thread all the way through the fabric.
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You should be left with a cute little spiral knot on the surface of the fabric. This one can take practise to get right, but it’s worth it!
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You may want just one French knot, or you could sew three, five or even a whole cluster next to each other for a fuller effect. Once you’ve sewn your flower centres, secure them in place with a double knot at the back and snip the thread.
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Split stitch embroidery tutorial" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TxIcmLVmQ8Q6EkDtynYyeMn6GlWhlox5TEOX9A2eGJN1XhWDpUUBp3RKabL_R8vt0KYvJrmOEK81dz66c5y5EP7JkdJ3FjNJFkc0Yp0fVtn9uAXcAgstBWThLeKCgxDo-bb8pEcdw4OZbnXUVdBWmgh8vr5SZjo9LbYWmVQ_RseyRcgF_6r0eVQorL4b/s16000/Split-stitch.jpg" title="How to sew split stitch - embroidery tutorial" /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">
How to sew split stitch</h4><br />
For the stems, we’ll use split stitch.
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To start off the stem, make a stitch around 1cm (3/8in) or so. Bring the needle up from back to front in the centre of this stitch, so you have three strands of floss on either side of the needle – thus splitting the stitch.
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Pull the thread right up to the top, then from here make a stitch the same length as the first – you can continue straight, or angle it slightly to the side to gradually create a curve with your stitches.
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Split this stitch the same way you split the first, bringing the needle up through the centre of it, before sewing the next stitch. Carry on like this until you’ve finished your stem.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Fishbone stitch embroidery tutorial" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD3GhSmEJKxO-yGZHGKoa655gYjzAD4crPoDnDqE0fz6CB8h0GGiW7X0jojkumvid5YR9y_wqA2NklD4YBLTy1xnYP3uwXBmG9v0CV077xHoEPNUs_gQm7EvlqId5X_OqvGYOBo5sywe4GNxQUUgpzAwoBhqCRbrys37TOF59YFz-uI4pS8L5IuzSt44hl/s16000/Fishbone-stitch.jpg" title="How to sew fishbone stitch - embroidery tutorial" /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">How to sew fishbone stitch
</h4><br />For the leaves, we’ll use a fishbone stitch, which creates an effect resembling the leaf veins.
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Starting at the tip of the leaf, take a short-ish straight stitch down the centre/vein.
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Bring the needle back up at the top on the right-hand side of the tip, right next to and slightly below it. Bring the needle down just under the bottom of the first stitch, slightly to the left of it.
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Repeat on the left-hand side of the tip, this time ending just to the right of the bottom of the previous stitch.
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Carry on like this, making stitches on alternating sides, keeping the top of each stitch following the outline of your leaf, and keeping the stitches close together to fill in the leaf.</div><div>
<br /><h4 style="text-align: left;"><img alt="Detail shot of flowers embroidered on a white gauze blouse" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0OiQ92rTSpwLn2_gfb73TKaRwLK1pivfMvssDmlLyEcL0AnQ2dTQpJ5q1OYIHlR6ol7MGrl_e7hNuTYqKHfpDtMdzk-ebPkc5mXi8uDi6SsgQheza8hFHAK33cNrOkZUxEk9QzSAeHsZobDTeEaM7nccFGRFZDq9jq7qabDRdVCqMw15YZ6ShM-Ex55g8/s16000/Embroidery%20flowers%20tutorial%204.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><br /></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;">Finishing off
</h4><br />
Once you’re finished your masterpiece, you can remove the stabiliser by tearing, cutting or washing it out, depending on which type you used.
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And don’t worry if it looks a bit messy on the back – no one is going to see it!</div></div><div><br /></div><div><h4><img alt="A middle aged woman with short brunette hair wears a white gauze blouse with flowers embroidered on the yoke" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCwFtxO8su4Eb046OIqMU46WcUQc9lsUNEp8BcUvo8R5O6KUikGN68NZLdM4oXu6fBY4ekN64b2VIzmuYKKWdN_53xNjjbabpEE1DtuEMeHjNCIwh_0URchfYf8_hsepPSNNzEjqAj-5mvEzmb_o6njTI5AfHK5HUz_3G8ofCP5bwKLPW525gOc7guLJG/s16000/Tilly-embroidered-Marnie-blouse-4.jpg" title="How to embroider flowers on your clothing - Tilly and the Buttons" /></h4></div><div>I hope this has inspired you to give embroidery a go. It's such a lovely way to spend some down time, and the result is a truly unique piece of clothing to treasure.</div><div><br /></div><div>*****</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Author: Tilly Walnes</div><div style="text-align: left;">Photos: Abi Dyson</div><div style="text-align: left;">Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" rel="nofollow">Marnie blouse</a></div></div></div><span><!--more--></span>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-29798580435213377032023-06-21T12:00:00.020+01:002023-06-21T14:26:59.581+01:00How To Do A Full Tummy Adjustment on Trousers or Shorts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKstIeETRV3zzqEIlSIoQxQ6Fpbi6qXazZG8jw0sfzyYh-W2TREsAUdLkETz4a6VL6qHsBOYMMjq3qxv_SYi2Q6oop5E1iEx3TQMbZtIU7SIjnYuURWJgc6DZxKw-CsBMf3BxQjcManzol953jizUUNt_PkH-CK_BepJR8Qb2yTCazJZT83Ev81VrPbio/s1170/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%20Header.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to do a full tummy adjustment on trousers or shorts" border="0" data-original-height="1170" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKstIeETRV3zzqEIlSIoQxQ6Fpbi6qXazZG8jw0sfzyYh-W2TREsAUdLkETz4a6VL6qHsBOYMMjq3qxv_SYi2Q6oop5E1iEx3TQMbZtIU7SIjnYuURWJgc6DZxKw-CsBMf3BxQjcManzol953jizUUNt_PkH-CK_BepJR8Qb2yTCazJZT83Ev81VrPbio/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%20Header.jpg" title="How to do a full tummy adjustment on trousers or shorts" /></a></div><br />Do you often feel as though you need a bit more room in the stomach area in your trousers or shorts? If you're nodding your head in agreement, you may benefit from doing a full tummy adjustment to your me-made garments.<p>A full tummy adjustment adds width and length to the stomach area on a pair of shorts or trousers (or pants if you're one of our North American friends). It's a handy adjustment to do if you need a little bit more room across the tummy, but the rest of the trousers fit well and feel comfortable. </p><p>But how do you know if you need a full tummy adjustment? If you often get drag lines across the stomach, a tight front crotch or if the side seams are pulled forward in line with the tummy area, this can indicate that you could benefit from a bit more room across the front. Even a small full tummy adjustment can make all the difference to how your shorts and trousers fit, and is a great adjustment to keep up your sleeve, or should we say down your leg (sorry). </p><p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xZM2dAqZ6r4" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></p><p>We've made a video which explains how to do a full tummy adjustment from start to finish. If you prefer to learn via diagrams and text, then keep on reading. </p><div><span style="color: red;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1i8Xp24shdsVo1OZdPv55nlhsp25r3hONXRgJD5GGKICG4zuKeYYuewLcks16w9v83SPddacEPk0KTSHCp1LAQC0ARdKG6kfDl281mluCQ05Xu-Okmrz7dpdK8Pe6db27FPcYx6zdN-f_3_7zQa3v9OCsNRHPNfFiPTYcI1mq2OiBMvLrb84IbVSJEE/s650/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Flat lay showing paper, tape, scissors, pattern master ruler, pen, pattern piece" border="0" data-original-height="488" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1i8Xp24shdsVo1OZdPv55nlhsp25r3hONXRgJD5GGKICG4zuKeYYuewLcks16w9v83SPddacEPk0KTSHCp1LAQC0ARdKG6kfDl281mluCQ05Xu-Okmrz7dpdK8Pe6db27FPcYx6zdN-f_3_7zQa3v9OCsNRHPNfFiPTYcI1mq2OiBMvLrb84IbVSJEE/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants.jpg" title="How to Do a Full Tummy Adjustment on trousers or shorts - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><br /></span></div>For this tutorial you’ll need your front leg pattern piece, a pen or pencil, a ruler, some scissors, some tape, and a bit of paper. <div><br /></div><div>So, once you’ve got those handy, let’s get started.<span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjflvW36M-Gh6XFViDf5y74QCYG7GT5_4hTWlEy6FhXjTAZ5mOlvstJ8oYH9N8iGXPbw8pg6fS0ldPaCB7UscbXbmZ5x9jntwVwIbt9eK-DJbRP7y_93VbFN8fBA6xd5u8-UbbWMCilMHOOFJIOdDlWB7uZ0kgkJ-gnFasrLDNYWv-CwT_OadMIo3mnWmY/s650/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%201.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing horizontal line across crotch, vertical line and diagonal line connecting the two" border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjflvW36M-Gh6XFViDf5y74QCYG7GT5_4hTWlEy6FhXjTAZ5mOlvstJ8oYH9N8iGXPbw8pg6fS0ldPaCB7UscbXbmZ5x9jntwVwIbt9eK-DJbRP7y_93VbFN8fBA6xd5u8-UbbWMCilMHOOFJIOdDlWB7uZ0kgkJ-gnFasrLDNYWv-CwT_OadMIo3mnWmY/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%201.jpg" title="How to Do a Full Tummy Adjustment on Shorts, Trousers or Pants - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>First up, extend the grainline up to the waistline. This is represented by the blue line on the above diagram. <div><br /></div><div>Draw a horizontal line across the front leg, from the crotch to the side seam, perpendicular to the grainline. The line should be roughly where the fullest part of your tummy will be. If you're not sure where the fullest part of your stomach will be, stand in front of a mirror and hold the paper pattern piece up against you. I've shown this here as a pink line in the diagram. </div><div><br /></div><div>Draw a vertical line connecting the waistline and the horizontal line you just drew. In this example, I'm going to use the extended grainline. </div><div><br /></div><div>Finally, draw a line connecting the point where the horizontal and vertical lines you've drawn intersect, with the top corner where the side seam and waistline seam meet. Mark the seam allowance point at the corner. These are the green and orange lines above. </div><div><br /></div><div>Next, grab your scissors and let's get snipping. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJDWZcDAa96q1GqzWhzF_iQ81wY3xEc9-vlaKQ-uUWxWoeQ8yVaEeC4I3JPGYVChkUYFFxojG83kiDGHdYB5swk3j9JS5WqVsWikkyAncrwTDVa1r4CQslxqPqDhW6-XjjnpKhxfl03ZDjOvZjyXfB9Uz-it-jTgm1HqZksDR-HqrFYUiRvtt6167QGcA/s666/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%202.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing horizontal line across the crotch, vertical line from waist and diagonal line to corner, all separated" border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJDWZcDAa96q1GqzWhzF_iQ81wY3xEc9-vlaKQ-uUWxWoeQ8yVaEeC4I3JPGYVChkUYFFxojG83kiDGHdYB5swk3j9JS5WqVsWikkyAncrwTDVa1r4CQslxqPqDhW6-XjjnpKhxfl03ZDjOvZjyXfB9Uz-it-jTgm1HqZksDR-HqrFYUiRvtt6167QGcA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%202.jpg" title="How to Do a Full Tummy Adjustment on Shorts, Trousers or Pants" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Starting at the crotch, cut the horizontal line and stop where it meets the vertical line. Pivot the scissors and cut up the diagonal line, stopping at the seam allowance marking. From the outside edge, snip from the top corner, stopping a smidge (i.e. a few mm or 1/16 inch) before the seam allowance line. </div><div><br /></div><div>From the waistline cut down the vertical line and stop just before the cut lines. </div><div><br /></div><div>You will see you've just made two hinges. We can move these to add length and width where it's needed. Pretty cool, right? </div><div><br /></div><div>Grab your bit of paper and carefully place your pattern piece on top of it. Stick the lower part of the pattern piece down to the paper to secure it. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnitaOTHL9pESDae1yj4B_YasnTxbYZVMqOJPPPnAZMvVIvuw6smwSb2c_I--IFf3Y2ynnNGC9OVzvz1pivwMwra_eIEEMIDDeftGinPsmRVHFw8ZJg1Hzd_UjbWHnPOWPelMHNrko92hiRNF0V9uoBtODDiqmVhRTeQtlck_JYZ7ZdqyZ105WPFOZJAA/s650/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%203.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New side seam, waistline and crotch lines drawn" border="0" data-original-height="637" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnitaOTHL9pESDae1yj4B_YasnTxbYZVMqOJPPPnAZMvVIvuw6smwSb2c_I--IFf3Y2ynnNGC9OVzvz1pivwMwra_eIEEMIDDeftGinPsmRVHFw8ZJg1Hzd_UjbWHnPOWPelMHNrko92hiRNF0V9uoBtODDiqmVhRTeQtlck_JYZ7ZdqyZ105WPFOZJAA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%203.jpg" title="How to Do a Full Tummy Adjustment on Shorts, Trousers or Pants" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Lift and spread the top of the front leg until you've added the desired width and length to the tummy area. Remember that this represents half the pattern piece, so if you add 15mm width, it will add 30mm across the whole front. When you're happy with the amount of space you've added width- and length-wise, stick it down. </div><div><br /></div><div>Let's tidy up the seams and draw a new crotch curve. I've shown all of this with dark blue lines. </div><div><br /></div><div>Draw a smooth, curved line connecting the new and old crotch positions. You'll see the front crotch is now more curved and longer. </div><div><br /></div><div>Smooth out the waistline, drawing a new line to connect the gap in the waistline. You'll also see the waistline is more curved than it once was. </div><div><br /></div><div>If your pattern has an elastic waistline channel, like the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank">Esti shorts or trousers</a>, or Safiya from <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/make-it-simple" target="_blank">Make It Simple</a>, square the corner off where the waistline and side seam meet so it can fold back on itself easily. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3p-q6MnRP3ni1FEWvcQYoYquZmR27QsOO6QaXQYlXw0mVUX2bL5gFfhvrSupIN8O6YrpAVINwoiXpQzdD5ul0QhLyALPGBqYO-NLnd20_uwBN04SNYASFPczFBLsTWl9D5NOWCyHj5q3qx2kuqgkYBomsyZq-VlnhM6E2d7YYqIfY_ZxA0TGgb5IKuEM/s650/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%204.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New grainline drawn on front leg" border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3p-q6MnRP3ni1FEWvcQYoYquZmR27QsOO6QaXQYlXw0mVUX2bL5gFfhvrSupIN8O6YrpAVINwoiXpQzdD5ul0QhLyALPGBqYO-NLnd20_uwBN04SNYASFPczFBLsTWl9D5NOWCyHj5q3qx2kuqgkYBomsyZq-VlnhM6E2d7YYqIfY_ZxA0TGgb5IKuEM/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Full%20Tummy%20Adjustment%20Shorts%20Trousers%20Pants%204.jpg" title="How to Do a Full Tummy Adjustment on Shorts, Trousers or Pants" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Finally we need to redraw the grainline, as it will have gone off-kilter at the top of the leg. Using the grainline on the bottom part of the leg as a guide, continue the line towards the waistline. This is your new grainline. </div><div><br /></div><div>And that's it! I hope you've found this tutorial useful. A little goes a long way here, so if you're unsure where to begin, try adding 15mm (5/8in) width to see how it feels, and assess if you'd want to add any more next time.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTTp1IoVQGy_Hcd2N3PRCaYBJR7eFSAyiqjnKIoEcH0OKCbbndueOPUIb9cMjwu1E_IfWMfX3Zoo9cR76yYLDNzBiOVB3uAEX6Y4RR9ysCGCq60BzKEcbRXn4baxvXX8WmDkAChTR7Yqhw7eAh556idnhGJSro-4hThmEwKt5_G7aMeWl6mz8HVQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="text-align: center;" /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><i>Liked this post? Check out <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/bust-adjustments-bust-darted-bodice.html" target="_blank">How to Bust Adjustments For a Bust Darted Bodice</a> and <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2022/02/five-ways-to-fix-gaping-neckline.html" target="_blank">Five Ways To Fix a Gaping Neckline</a>. </i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><div>*****</div><div>Author: Nikki Hoar</div><div>Video: Abi Dyson</div><div><br /></div></div></div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-37472833078218200412023-06-16T12:00:00.003+01:002023-10-14T09:09:09.720+01:00Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LWRPApGTGNTcRzfYLiDj6Iu8nSufcZF7V7xQ4kCTKr9I4y2ZZIpdKFdTnhyOE4IbjMchQiBDyCWas_R5jEStInk5eN27G19CAlwT9rONvWdDDRjxgwe4G3JEkvSjPq2r-NUp-WlVbP_yetg9TuCIBWVWzNoyvOnFb69d9jsuyVOCx1dpqvS2ow/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20-%20HEADER.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><br /><p>If you're sewing up an <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank">Esti co-ord</a> or two this summer, you're in the right place for a healthy dose of fabric and high-street inspiration for your makes!</p><p>Ideal for all your favourite spring/summer fabrics, Esti is designed for <b>light- to medium-weight woven fabrics</b>. Try linen or chambray for a more structured silhouette, or viscose (rayon) or Tencel (lyocell) for a drapier look.</p><p>First, let's have a peek at the lovely Esti samples...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of Esti model pictures featuring rayon fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNaHnWsNp6b31FOTSMM4YpmFCGav8Eaw1P7gjAaElzk2Y1fRyQEZcOgK-sfhSs7A3thWK0sbXQ5x4tEu_OQx2bYN-3LsV6mQXM02hNrA09YhaYLc_JCb3YDy7LkDn1bIV96xcLUabM--oCBYEj9Rc2VtfN8JFNhjS0Z_j--SBIk8QIsm3e7BmEQ/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2001.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Fabric: <a href="https://gridfabrics.com/products/whatnot-navy-rayon?_pos=4&_sid=439967872&_ss=r" target="_blank">Ruby Star rayon - Grid Fabrics</a></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We're obsessed with the faux jumpsuit potential of Esti and just had to get this look on the cover!</div><span></span><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8WwkJqTYfi8sXP3_hEthCgXJMAKptQ5n2oGSFJAJtSG-h3rWPOn-oaTB6yqBSTSTOBE9QgUPbCGnk9qstS-81VHNh8hjgNo8SM4RTjsk4M7-t1OBy9BW0ypomq8r_xF6dBDCnVAn9o9QsOW8raFnQwEQC_LGoHpC74ZAj3gtm4wqD1LAhZotj-FStWE/s1000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2002_v2.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="A collage of Esti model pictures featuring linen fabric" border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8WwkJqTYfi8sXP3_hEthCgXJMAKptQ5n2oGSFJAJtSG-h3rWPOn-oaTB6yqBSTSTOBE9QgUPbCGnk9qstS-81VHNh8hjgNo8SM4RTjsk4M7-t1OBy9BW0ypomq8r_xF6dBDCnVAn9o9QsOW8raFnQwEQC_LGoHpC74ZAj3gtm4wqD1LAhZotj-FStWE/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2002_v2.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Fabric: <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1245021/minerva-core-range-soft-stonewashed-ramie-linen-fabric" target="_blank">Soft Stonewashed Ramie Linen in light purple - Minerva</a></i></div><div><br /></div><div>With so many dreamy linen fabrics available, you can sew an Esti set in every shade.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of Esti model pictures featuring gingham linen fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGh0_sUH4uTD6F-tyBXHzROtQQVHA0IW6UvwLj5hc-giG7119tSa3ErSbvF_1ssyyua5BIdkaaV_wJZ1Rf6BkiKCkq_oiGLsO3YMmilzQhhJTD0fnMC6CuDqpuWstVDdExEZf9vysUExUKLDNBXBiDfFFKbeTvJgFUV3BEEyyh_JlMee6MKcg2WQ/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2003.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><p><i>Fabric: <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1240449/robert-kaufman-limerick-100-linen-fabric-periwinkle&variant=1240427" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman Limerick linen gingham - Minerva</a></i></p><p>Like we always say, you can never go wrong with gingham! This linen is ideal for a summer set.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Cool Co-ords</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6dK6db-UCeYXjT97-X3Y8ewPDZ2ZQj-ASz28lg0790cXV1NSVcrVt6HIlfF3W1RQiEW6z2MBYAgC-Pi2nzFQp47OgIkMUPJUQ51hGV-W_JLv-gqsaL6V1ybURty7n0uTuh9pARID84zQD5Q7t5fS-ABfaV5ZfbLRzQVEq-2eWAdhTJnHz7hvQ8g/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2004.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><p><a href="https://misterzimi.com/products/estelle-pants-in-fizz" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://beyondnine.co.uk/products/nora-top-gingham" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://misterzimi.com/?epik=dj0yJnU9WnJPYmFYZ3J4VGVOS0V6dGlrVFE1UVA0MXFOcTh0dkomcD0wJm49SnhmQ2hfQndtZmRLYkY5U0VlODMxdyZ0PUFBQUFBR1NCbTJr" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/197736239881572657/" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://misterzimi.com/collections/new" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/197736239881567727/" target="_blank">6</a></p><p>Summer dressing made easy. Whip up a selection of Esti tops, trousers and shorts in complimentary colours and you can mix and match your sets through the seasons!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Fabric picks for Esti sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQn9xAr9Hs1B7Gsrk4C8YNPJ7kjNUQi6bSMVDe_GuLe6_1SRLhGYBhbioXYzueZVBI4i3H6BY3UWWUsR0RT6Az8y51IWw7sCzkCqogmKGtHeBZOBTf8HSvY0YCOaVyT-hejfp0YiagfE8OdGSUkcKrmEWdMesvsrT8o86BIoG4zNFhPyP7Cw6yfA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20fabric%2003.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><p><a href="https://www.trurofabrics.com/shop-garment-fabric/fabric-content/linen/linen-cotton-blend-fabric-rockpool-gingham.html" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1000481/robert-kaufman-brussels-washer-linen-fabric" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://lamazifabrics.com/collections/animal-print/products/garden-of-dreams-utopia-sateen-with-tencel%E2%84%A2-lyocell-fibres" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.trurofabrics.com/shop-garment-fabric/fabric-content/linen/linen-and-cotton-blend-fabric-rockpool.html" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://sewmesunshine.co.uk/collections/new/products/linen-viscose-embroidered-dots-dark-navy-1" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.rainbowfabrics.co.uk/collections/ss23/products/mulberry-double-gauze?variant=43691217813696" target="_blank">6</a></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Faux Jumpsuit</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pJwJxN3UFHKXaORLLzUjZcvrcgF0jtfdrS3M-X2P8mflq21njutr-UWSlOubOIFn_hGqohzsmTRZktntp6HQ3dIs4ZQlKsa0oQ_M7Sv8Jg7B_msraVEQTFg6go7gS3G_RV1G0jfyHADI6aCwL0pZIp4Zcnl45v3GvduIX0gGai3inCxp6M9DQg/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2005.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><p><a href="http://and-other-things.com/2014/09/gorman-summer-2014-collection.html/" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.asos.com/noisy-may-curve/noisy-may-curve-cami-and-shorts-co-ord-in-gingham/grp/87481?clr=brown-yellow&colourWayId=202801755&cid=20431#202801753" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://shop.misterzimi.com/products/poppy-charlie-jumpsuit" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/250231323036262866/" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.seasaltcornwall.com/peaceful-haven-printed-linen-culottes?glCountry=GB&glCurrency=GBP&color=35654%3Futm_source%3Dpinterest&utm_medium=cpc&utm_medium=cpc&lgw_code=24463-315689B024%3Futm_source%3Dpinterest&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20220210_SS22-L1_WK2_TF_CATSALES_ALL_BROAD_DYNAMIC_PD&utm_term=315689b024&utm_content=1+-+Top+Funnel+-+Catalogue+Sales&pp=0&epik=dj0yJnU9aWRXcGItX3YzcW1nZ2drOGZOWUZsNGduRWhkbXZCWEkmcD0xJm49Z2hzQW1WTXBHVWY1RDlvNmlIUUxKUSZ0PUFBQUFBR1NCbTVZ" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://misterzimi.com/products/luca-jumpsuit-in-spicy" target="_blank">6</a></p><p>We cannot get enough of this look. Pick a bold print for a statement faux jumpsuit. Then pair off your colourful separates with neutral tops or bottoms for mix-and-match looks.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Fabric picks for Esti sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvDRi4vekq2ddkatgZlaMYe8hgeXGdo_dJ03iggdS6AePk65w4S7jS4tS8wiR26J2HqqS6etaj9t5LnPfdF_VfjSeKw64YS_TT_vPde5p_4zZJxFkN3aLtGkAvQrqWGyG62EMA_5ijvRUArXnMHmOLt27TymNAzimy_QcCK5hh7kexlRmCJkFtw/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20fabric%2001.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><p><a href="https://gridfabrics.com/products/geo-black-on-natural-cotton-sateen" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://gridfabrics.com/products/geo-colours-on-black-cotton-sateen" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.spoonflower.com/en/fabric/12440060-primary-color-party-pink-red-blue-by-katiekortman" target="_blank">3</a> / 4 / <a href="https://sistermintaka.com/product/cloud-green-rayon/" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/pandora-ecovero-crepe-ivory/" target="_blank">6</a></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Staple Separates</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIW7tHNcjeopzED43xzKIzpij21nCEg2PKUCJruYmoE22qfomuBM6NZj34rX-dqyYE9Kv05QaPOrdqhRutfH-mZOXb1bvM76bjg67Y5z1zPmJe_U4Ttdl0El3QOlsfU9xH8EzlJAiiX1CHx8CosKhE1upBK6Vgu0n0nmfqxIx6T5K_iyr1_XfqSA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2007.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.simplybe.co.uk%2Fshop%2Fc%2Ffashion%2Ftops-t-shirts%2Fvests-camis&psig=AOvVaw2AXnMVR8evH99os1Re_VII&ust=1686304743452000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CBEQjRxqFwoTCLiSkuy0s_8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAP" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/197736239881572658/" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.simplybe.co.uk%2Fshop%2Fc%2Ffashion%2Ftops-t-shirts%2Fvests-camis%2Ff%2FColour--Black&psig=AOvVaw2AXnMVR8evH99os1Re_VII&ust=1686304743452000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCLiSkuy0s_8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAe" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="http://www.warehousefashion.com/AWW01774-133-16.html" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.oasisfashion.com/textured-check-cami-top/AAA06063.html" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/641857172/linen-pants-linen-culottes-womans?epik=dj0yJnU9aVcxRDBjcHI4Q0pCREdXamVxekhOQm1rb2RuNURDb3QmcD0wJm49RmZCUXY5YUJ6NXM2N254ZDZPMHJodyZ0PUFBQUFBR1NCb0JB" target="_blank">6</a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pBLPaloBRSP5fXHQDCo2YWeODeRH1Xrvoikop5QSAO62qO8hVpGhPu1usUAVMiuAkdBT8j03zKWqBkxZS4VoczdyT6IRKCeo5Yaj4R_hcV5lJ2ZRy1-dlVNfk5_sDgw5pYIDSWDOkl1S_AwA_wShy-zNsirRyWacwzb1Zd5YcFG0ELaObeFiqg/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2008.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://www.asos.com/us/asos-curve/asos-design-curve-pull-on-shorts-in-lime-choc-check-part-of-a-set/prd/200293179" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/197736239881572658/" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.meandem.com/cheesecloth-short-co-ord" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.roman.co.uk%2Fplus-size%2Fplus-size-trousers&psig=AOvVaw3_072tHJkqLy_hGJeSWj56&ust=1686306104284000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCKCf8vS5s_8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABA4" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.asos.com/reclaimed-vintage/reclaimed-vintage-inspired-wide-leg-trouser-in-check/prd/14326696" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/641857172/linen-pants-linen-culottes-womans?epik=dj0yJnU9aVcxRDBjcHI4Q0pCREdXamVxekhOQm1rb2RuNURDb3QmcD0wJm49RmZCUXY5YUJ6NXM2N254ZDZPMHJodyZ0PUFBQUFBR1NCb0JB" target="_blank">6</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Need a new pair of staple trousers or shorts in your wardrobe rotation? Looking for simple cami tops to pair with your jeans? The beauty of having two patterns in one means more making! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Fabric picks for Esti sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHhlc4csGR2q9uOzMsDrK6bSg5a9MABVS6ijaMz0CFtz0FChCj7NtiDDn017aabx5km665JAXpyjEWvhET5vKk7TdgsEkvVzNUaujxcv7c9SnvaW2bqBgEssLrULhlIHM8TdgT4s8S4D-hYWnNxwQ2kRmn2WKNOeLH5tgkF_RH3ZICyfOd8wifw/s16000/Launch%20Blog%20-%20Inspo%20(fabrics).png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1000481/robert-kaufman-brussels-washer-linen-fabric" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/iris-viscose-linen-green-lilac/" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://sewmesunshine.co.uk/collections/tencel-modal-cupro/products/deadstock-tencel-poplin-green" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.trurofabrics.com/shop-garment-fabric/fabric-content/linen/rayon-linen-blend-fabric-wild-side-twilight.html" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://higgsandhiggs.com/product/h-h-washed-100-linen-lagoon-27/" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/yarn-dyed-cotton-chambray-1cm-gingham-dark-green.html?query=Yarn%20Dyed%20Cotton%20Chambray%201cm%20Gingham" target="_blank">6</a></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Make it Neutral</h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9vWHDMdIwKSHs4wpQjE8tVLZ80hZ1zL1w8gCmhkZDWkSDiwyPqZMa9Liz1nGjGRCegEC41D80eJe-jwg-saEMYB9Y0dSS5RJcx5zxid_xZBlfAfm8s7Fjf-yrVBqSEm27tmHzmF5l5_pVNjS-ctRuGEp9_CxBvceVDHV1ZY86oBIoHFfJ0NtbA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20Inspo%2007.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></div><p><a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/197736239881583401/" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://theposse.com.au/collections/tops" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/197736239881583333/" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.next.co.uk/g24424s12/976900" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/1136384918456266569/" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://olanaclothing.com/products/emilie-crop-top?variant=31862100066383" target="_blank">6</a></p><p>xxx</p><p><img alt="Fabric picks for Esti sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3orad84JKY-9QNL6iF9b-UhVIlJOJ572zBHM5Gh6aRYVGQWBIWWkf-TjKQt01lMcc7JVCJf_8HH2w5FDT2sYVRa8D62jMMoGWCIz1GIeK9OPuVkmgjHkz6zoHWUUo6ikXWXMAno90_rI64CC7r761DeTPaRkHf7tAsyfpUV9dl7mJiRig7fIYOw/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Esti%20fabric%2004.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Esti" /></p><p><a href="https://www.rainbowfabrics.co.uk/collections/ss23/products/light-mocha?variant=43691300815040" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.myfabrics.co.uk/p/1152234.0.m.html" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://lamazifabrics.com/collections/linen-linen-mix/products/crinkle-viscose-linen-blend-fabric-in-rose" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://lamazifabrics.com/collections/linen-linen-mix/products/ecru-melange-pure-linen-fabric" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.myfabrics.co.uk/p/17724.0.m.html" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://higgsandhiggs.com/product/h-h-bio-washed-100-linen-nude-45/" target="_blank">6</a></p><p>We hope this has got you itching to get on and pick a fabric or two to make your <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank">Esti co-ords</a>! For more Esti sewing inspiration, make sure you check out our dedicated Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingesti/" target="_blank">#SewingEsti</a> - we can't wait to see your makes.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>*****</p><p>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sarahbritner/" target="_blank">Sarah Britner</a> & <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/03/whatsophiesmaking" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a><br />Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />MUAH: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lauraannemakeup/" target="_blank">Laura Ann</a><br />Samples: Sewn by Vanessa Allen</p></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-6263390072595897292023-06-14T12:00:00.060+01:002023-10-12T18:40:57.006+01:00Fitting the Esti Top and Trousers or Shorts Co-ord<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLJkXSsj9WNpeL7PtBLP1VMgtlngV4ItNR28OzrMyPS5Ur2jiUWuhnrCh8VxGrhxe5Ed8K8JIObA7AczDwwuEIz3X6VdPBgtP1-KPYZzOU43Q0M0ZF3YyfA_6Ekm5-CrluF5DdiFbXxpVwBLhmElDptSqtp4G0vnToBGvUM2XxNkiW1tZHjfA0N6KT/s1600/Fitting%20Esti%20header.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="Fitting the Esti Co-ord" border="0" data-original-height="1169" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLJkXSsj9WNpeL7PtBLP1VMgtlngV4ItNR28OzrMyPS5Ur2jiUWuhnrCh8VxGrhxe5Ed8K8JIObA7AczDwwuEIz3X6VdPBgtP1-KPYZzOU43Q0M0ZF3YyfA_6Ekm5-CrluF5DdiFbXxpVwBLhmElDptSqtp4G0vnToBGvUM2XxNkiW1tZHjfA0N6KT/s16000/Fitting%20Esti%20header.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti Co-ord" /></a></div>
Thinking of making the Esti top and trousers or shorts and want some extra tips on how to get a great fit for your unique body shape? Then keep on reading as this post is for you.<p></p><p><span>Esti is a simple to sew and incredibly versatile top-and-trouser or top-and-shorts co-ord that you can wear all year round!</span></p><p>Since we're all different shapes, we sometimes need to make adjustments to sewing patterns to get a fit that we're happy with. Here, I'm going to talk you through the most common fitting adjustments you might want to consider making to your Esti Co-ord. </p><p>In this post we're going to cover: </p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Making a toile </li><li>Choosing your size </li><li>Full bust and small bust adjustments</li><li>Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces </li><li>How to combine pattern sizes </li><li>How to adjust the neckline </li><li>Full tummy adjustment</li><li>Lengthening or shortening the crotch</li></ul><div><b><br /></b></div></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Making a toile</b></h3><div>A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock-up of your garment in fabric you don't mind using for testing purposes - pick something with similar weight and drape to the fabric you have in mind for your final project. Making a toile is a great opportunity to test the fit of a sewing pattern or practise a technique on sacrificial fabric before you cut into the nice fabric you have lovingly chosen and purchased for your project.</div><div><br /></div><div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/11/when-why-how-to-make-toile-or-muslin.html" target="_blank">comprehensive blog post about toile making</a>. Go check it out if you want to find out more!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV6LhAr0cT0VQYlJhweiZZPkf5aFQMwI7YxETkxCj_Z4q7JD7D5VyjX1K5X_H0PUZLX9Eln1W5BV8Ro9jQuH9g3pbKj9P21Ikw2V9staWq-RkCC32udPip2nyuYQ_eqQcWpP1sVoeMcHZC3yzHs1GHqk-mA-Rw_UDIquES_PX_OFeG8lmRtI3ZZoL8/s650/Fitting%20Esti%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%202.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Body form with bust, waist and hip areas highlighted" border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV6LhAr0cT0VQYlJhweiZZPkf5aFQMwI7YxETkxCj_Z4q7JD7D5VyjX1K5X_H0PUZLX9Eln1W5BV8Ro9jQuH9g3pbKj9P21Ikw2V9staWq-RkCC32udPip2nyuYQ_eqQcWpP1sVoeMcHZC3yzHs1GHqk-mA-Rw_UDIquES_PX_OFeG8lmRtI3ZZoL8/s16000/Fitting%20Esti%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%202.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Choosing your size</b></h3><div><div><br /></div><div>Esti includes all 15 sizes in our range. Pattern sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better fit. For this reason, you may notice the proportions change in the measurements chart and the shaping is slightly different on the pattern pieces – differences for sizes 7-15 include room for a larger bust (10cm/4in difference between high bust and full bust, as opposed to 5cm/2in difference on sizes 1-6), more room at the waist, plus a longer front crotch curve.</div><div><br /></div><div>To find your size, using a flexible tape measure, measure the circumference of your:</div><ul><li>Bust - take the measurement at the fullest point i.e. around your nipples </li><li>Waist - where you bend at the side </li><li>Hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is </li></ul><div>Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check. <span></span></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbTygmo1NMcGefYsXcQpfhrnMjUbDZaNJqZkGOq9qaxm8ccvqftahXUrtGoNWKPwX4OLZyyMXOZWdA0HaglrMFEY-HturTOFSmABkhl4HVNK3G-E-dTHhFr7lhpfsGCppTBDtrMED48klx5MkvDxcNS1Q3PlKDfc5NlCuVoOEr5ixv0V_EiA0yj2fY/s922/Esti%20body%20measurement%20chart.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img alt="Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord body measurements and finished garment measurements chart" border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbTygmo1NMcGefYsXcQpfhrnMjUbDZaNJqZkGOq9qaxm8ccvqftahXUrtGoNWKPwX4OLZyyMXOZWdA0HaglrMFEY-HturTOFSmABkhl4HVNK3G-E-dTHhFr7lhpfsGCppTBDtrMED48klx5MkvDxcNS1Q3PlKDfc5NlCuVoOEr5ixv0V_EiA0yj2fY/s16000/Esti%20body%20measurement%20chart.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div>Circle your measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most peoples do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes (we'll come onto that later!).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A quick note about bust measurements - as we are all wonderfully unique, choosing a pattern based on our full bust measurement may sometimes lead to a garment being too small or tight across the bust, or fit in this area but not fit everywhere else. If this sounds familiar you might want to do a bust adjustment. Cast your eyes over the section below...</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphqyg-oPMhenw_qXqw14q1E-rm5lHIPqnREiN1pcPnOEArugVFd0qdj7zUItak4CPpuLx3URK5Bt86kWhTsLSMa9H541L8mAC59cQ2-uBKTbOKGDMZ4ReiH2txLhH1wW_CWOPYtf9zWfmVmpULxk84np7MP783zEnq8Ddt0EXY0y-GfcDSHMBUMctq6Y/s975/073A1036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphqyg-oPMhenw_qXqw14q1E-rm5lHIPqnREiN1pcPnOEArugVFd0qdj7zUItak4CPpuLx3URK5Bt86kWhTsLSMa9H541L8mAC59cQ2-uBKTbOKGDMZ4ReiH2txLhH1wW_CWOPYtf9zWfmVmpULxk84np7MP783zEnq8Ddt0EXY0y-GfcDSHMBUMctq6Y/s16000/073A1036.jpg" /></a></div><br />Full bust and small bust adjustments</b></h3><div><b><br /></b></div><div>If you have a particularly large or small bust, choosing a size based solely on your bust measurement can mean that you'll end up with a top that is either too large or too small.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you know your bust is on the larger or smaller side, check out our <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/bust-adjustments-bust-darted-bodice.html" target="_blank">blog post on how to do bust adjustments on a bust darted bodice</a>. </div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces </b></h3></div><div><br /></div><div>Our patterns are drafted for a height of around 5"5 (165cm). If you're particularly taller or shorter than this, or know you have a long or short torso or legs, you can change the length of the pattern pieces to fit you better. You can also change the length of the top, trousers or shorts to suit your own personal style. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/lengthening-or-shortening-pattern-pieces.html" target="_blank">blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces</a>. It talks you through the process, step by step, so go check it out.</div><div><br /></div><div>Remember, if you lengthen or shorten the front bodice or leg, make sure you make the exact same adjustment to the back bodice or leg so the side seams end up the same length.<br /><div><br /></div><div>We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Esti pattern pieces:</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWjRi5WASZCOLayLhfJq68yUQTW8ucuHUeMfCPYzhKdL7-wOpJ7m1w1h4oQGHs0N8tP9A1tC93YTzyKwYtm36JajBSfPtFLbUpQElvQWx9nTxJooH51fQuoFylcUnKuWx3oSnkTxSxzeZvNTtEedqE1vKfs2wJvoshCmrgbRIB1i8n_QGKs7AbDMi/s650/Crotch%20L+S%20lines-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing where lengthen or shorten lines appear on front leg" border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWjRi5WASZCOLayLhfJq68yUQTW8ucuHUeMfCPYzhKdL7-wOpJ7m1w1h4oQGHs0N8tP9A1tC93YTzyKwYtm36JajBSfPtFLbUpQElvQWx9nTxJooH51fQuoFylcUnKuWx3oSnkTxSxzeZvNTtEedqE1vKfs2wJvoshCmrgbRIB1i8n_QGKs7AbDMi/s16000/Crotch%20L+S%20lines-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><b>1) Leg (crotch)</b></div><div><br /></div><div>The Esti trousers and shorts are designed to sit at the natural waistline. If you are tall or short overall and usually find trousers and pyjamas come up a bit too high rise or low rise for you, you can lengthen or shorten the crotch using the set of lines marked "lengthen or shorten here" on the upper part of the front and back leg. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2OjoY_kF4zUvCUrpfwKoLyRbzGsloUnmeYKS5soPhg3D-AM0jgB4EPCrMvLbpkHz4u54EjPxlAloZSkbYNdDTVkQruAvtM44ApwufP8D8mO3gigWHOLryIeGzx2fq573zEbZT9jnzk-ve2A292x6fb1fH235wWBzBo5iDbU4W9stPC8WZSst0cCaY/s650/Leg%20L+S%20line-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing where lengthen or shorten lines appear on bottom of front leg" border="0" data-original-height="506" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2OjoY_kF4zUvCUrpfwKoLyRbzGsloUnmeYKS5soPhg3D-AM0jgB4EPCrMvLbpkHz4u54EjPxlAloZSkbYNdDTVkQruAvtM44ApwufP8D8mO3gigWHOLryIeGzx2fq573zEbZT9jnzk-ve2A292x6fb1fH235wWBzBo5iDbU4W9stPC8WZSst0cCaY/s16000/Leg%20L+S%20line-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />2) Leg length - trousers</b></div><div><br /></div><div>If you have particularly long or short legs, you can lengthen or shorten the pattern along the set of lines marked "lengthen or shorten here" on the lower part of the front and back leg. </div><div><br /></div><div>The inside leg measurement for the Esti trousers is 59.5cm (23 1/2in) for the cropped version and 75.5cm (29 3/4in) for the full-length trousers. Compare this to your own inside leg measurement before you decide whether to lengthen or shorten the legs. If you're not sure if you need to shorten them, leave them as they are and shorten them at the hemming stage if you need to.</div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7SWzTJVlyANu-vyFcokgwCVdR5O3nMScCIwkeLajP4W4kLc597y8wx-AE99r4V2EbIFTDC1lCaGRjyZmkI1N20p5x47xMQIWg1E0LRNQhJoLT-U72FQaR0YPZ440_X03DK-brtBWnlKhB-Cwvh4bmuzoHCPWkGdMBkPQ5vLm9bXDULa-2DJHET5JM/s677/Lengthen%20shorts-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to lengthen Esti shorts" border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7SWzTJVlyANu-vyFcokgwCVdR5O3nMScCIwkeLajP4W4kLc597y8wx-AE99r4V2EbIFTDC1lCaGRjyZmkI1N20p5x47xMQIWg1E0LRNQhJoLT-U72FQaR0YPZ440_X03DK-brtBWnlKhB-Cwvh4bmuzoHCPWkGdMBkPQ5vLm9bXDULa-2DJHET5JM/s16000/Lengthen%20shorts-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />Lengthening or shortening the shorts</b></h4><div>The inside leg seam measurement for the shorts is 8cm (3 1/4in). If you think you want these a little longer, you can draw in a new hem line to your desired length. </div><div><br /></div><div>Work out how much you want to extend the shorts by and measure down from the shorts hemline and mark this point. Draw a new line, roughly following the curve of the original shorts hemline, and true the corners i.e. copy the little sticky out bit at the edges of the hemline. Bring out the inside leg and side seams just a smidge to retain the shape of the shorts - use the pink lines above as a guide.</div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Lengthening or shortening the bodice</b></h4><div>If you want to lengthen or shorten the bodice, measure up or down from the front bodice hem and mark where you want the new hem to sit. Draw a new line, roughly following the curve of the original bodice hem. Once you're happy, make sure you make the same change to the back bodice!</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMsNAHHTsLM9btV4uxVbx2QWycrYVW3ggzFIlOBoqBUyGeBXa2JHgdOyjYJAbGqGTC5vL7zBjxCh9g3GZ-YQ6mXFFZOPyl8B44gd4kVQYA5zhA1ybM72cypbkIRUILT16_ybnvz0amhPJ8T5n9ckZdo4HzisHpNNsEVw8b7kDmMcB_dfr-i8xdul7O/s852/Combining%20sizes-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to combine sizes for Esti back bodice" border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMsNAHHTsLM9btV4uxVbx2QWycrYVW3ggzFIlOBoqBUyGeBXa2JHgdOyjYJAbGqGTC5vL7zBjxCh9g3GZ-YQ6mXFFZOPyl8B44gd4kVQYA5zhA1ybM72cypbkIRUILT16_ybnvz0amhPJ8T5n9ckZdo4HzisHpNNsEVw8b7kDmMcB_dfr-i8xdul7O/s16000/Combining%20sizes-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />How to combine pattern sizes</b></h3><div>If your bust, waist and/or hip measurements fall in different sizes on the body measurements chart, you can grade between these areas to get a bespoke fit for your exact body measurements. <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/combining-pattern-sizes.html" target="_blank">Check out our blog post which explains how to combine sizes</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>For the top, the only area you really need to fit is around the bust and neckline. There's quite a bit of ease around the waist so you don't have to worry about picking your exact waist size if your bust is a different size, unless there's a difference of more than 2 or 3 or so sizes. You can find the finished garment measurements in the booklet which tell you how big the garment will be.</div><div><br /></div><div>For the trousers, the waist is elasticated meaning there is a lot more fitting leeway compared to a more fitted waistline, although we recommend choosing the correct size from the body measurements chart as this will be most comfy to wear. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you want to combine sizes between the waist and the hips, measure 5cm (2in) down from the waistline and mark it. We don't want to change the size lines above this point as it may alter the shape of the elastic waist channel. From this point, draw a smooth curved line to the hips by hand, or using a french curve or pattern master. </div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>How to adjust the neckline</b></h3><div>If you have especially narrow or wide shoulders you may want to adjust the top neckline. </div><div><br /></div><div>If your shoulders are on the narrower side, we have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2022/02/five-ways-to-fix-gaping-neckline.html" target="_blank">blog post all about adjusting gapey necklines</a> which covers how to pivot excess from a neckline into a bust dart. It's like magic!</div><div><br /></div><div>If you have already made a full bust adjustment and don't want to make the bust darts any bigger, you may be better off simply shaving a bit off the sides of the neckline at the top of the armholes and bringing the straps in a little. It's this kind of adjustment that makes a toile worthwhile!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9azSmguhkiFLp8sxW3tJpqiREs0XbJNOouVLycSAY8rpTSETUeyQAh26soZDllXTBaEl0Sa7BLBgtMKG7x6gVowTl8vmkPY9rWPO0syr8obxcvopSPcQzkP8pdpmJ3SkRlTsixrvGnNHQ7DPbFJVW3Y0KHt9J5p-r6afjo0xsKvM8lzMD42x9enf/s862/widen%20neckline-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to adjust neckline for Esti bodice" border="0" data-original-height="862" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9azSmguhkiFLp8sxW3tJpqiREs0XbJNOouVLycSAY8rpTSETUeyQAh26soZDllXTBaEl0Sa7BLBgtMKG7x6gVowTl8vmkPY9rWPO0syr8obxcvopSPcQzkP8pdpmJ3SkRlTsixrvGnNHQ7DPbFJVW3Y0KHt9J5p-r6afjo0xsKvM8lzMD42x9enf/s16000/widen%20neckline-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt_OnTAkKEmePS48wXYT_qjF3sK0h8bdn6bo5kot2x_cHEIzwOO8MooHVTeAV8V-qCC8VuVv9XGkBxjGGBzpeQvqHIopSl4GgKLX6GmOD1SiX6hWp-_1-S_l8HgEJpd28KipieHezX0lLDxi34Weca2yiYMnDqV3Zw9TX3MhD_4WRfit8G5eii1iKY/s829/Widen%20neckline%20-%20facing-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to adjust Esti top back facing" border="0" data-original-height="829" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt_OnTAkKEmePS48wXYT_qjF3sK0h8bdn6bo5kot2x_cHEIzwOO8MooHVTeAV8V-qCC8VuVv9XGkBxjGGBzpeQvqHIopSl4GgKLX6GmOD1SiX6hWp-_1-S_l8HgEJpd28KipieHezX0lLDxi34Weca2yiYMnDqV3Zw9TX3MhD_4WRfit8G5eii1iKY/s16000/Widen%20neckline%20-%20facing-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>If you feel like you need a bit more width at the shoulders you can extend the bodice neckline out and redraw the armhole curve. You will need to alter your front and back facing pattern pieces to match your new bodice, or draw a new one from scratch. Lay a piece of paper over your new bodice pattern pieces and trace the changes made to the neckline and armholes. Transfer these changes across to your facings and you're all set to get sewing. <div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Full tummy adjustment</b></h3><div>If you often need a bit more room in the stomach for your me-mades, but they fit everywhere else, you can do a full tummy adjustment. This adjustment adds length and width to where the fullest part of the tummy is. </div><div><br /></div><div>We have a blog post and video on how to do this adjustment coming <i>very</i> soon, so keep your eyes peeled!</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>Lengthening or shortening the crotch</b></h3><div>If you read the 'lengthening and shortening' section above you might think wait, didn't we already cover this already? And you are indeed correct. </div><div><br /></div><div>However, the above section covers how to adjust the length of the front and back crotch to add or subtract length in the rise. If you think you might need more room in the front crotch only, there is an easy little adjustment you can make which can make all the difference. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRVL3U3qXbyejBdFRs2JuwxVk-XRzHgJEMV_iK4CCKR2bUqwMphdzGm0zsHj89q7pDuRtAkc0kq9w-vXKwKrSq7-LBXMYH7ahg6ONpQxwnJdC1jW2fmQzu9JaJsAgunpBsufvM_cU7YfAokxYwvQDcAq0gdANtW7P9HgL3XyTZ0YfOHPzb6nWjDI8/s983/front%20crotch-01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to lengthen Esti trousers or shorts front crotch" border="0" data-original-height="983" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNRVL3U3qXbyejBdFRs2JuwxVk-XRzHgJEMV_iK4CCKR2bUqwMphdzGm0zsHj89q7pDuRtAkc0kq9w-vXKwKrSq7-LBXMYH7ahg6ONpQxwnJdC1jW2fmQzu9JaJsAgunpBsufvM_cU7YfAokxYwvQDcAq0gdANtW7P9HgL3XyTZ0YfOHPzb6nWjDI8/s16000/front%20crotch-01.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />1) Lengthening the front crotch</div><div><br /></div>If you can see drag lines coming up from the front crotch that resemble smile lines, it may be a sign that it needs more length. On the front leg piece, stick or tape some pattern paper next to the end of the crotch seam and extend the cutting line. A little goes a long way, so around 15mm (5/8in) should make a big difference. With a ruler or steady hand, re-draw the inner leg seam so that it gently tapers into the original cutting line.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5ApUyzqwz_IXYJEq8qXf2cNMXTKBZ-PZ8oRCob4i5hraB6EYrz-Lw-zbdLdN0jn_4tnsi5aumyNiApR1sxOSE_O5CeeD7Tdzp4Bc8XhrvSa62KSvlpQ6d9GG_9ifYhc_5qXXvvRlHlYYQAP3Z3uVc8e7db2jFFT8cr3vWkJXrnddwUTGCp4IhvJe/s904/back%20crotch.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diagram showing how to shorten Esti trousers or shorts front crotch" border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL5ApUyzqwz_IXYJEq8qXf2cNMXTKBZ-PZ8oRCob4i5hraB6EYrz-Lw-zbdLdN0jn_4tnsi5aumyNiApR1sxOSE_O5CeeD7Tdzp4Bc8XhrvSa62KSvlpQ6d9GG_9ifYhc_5qXXvvRlHlYYQAP3Z3uVc8e7db2jFFT8cr3vWkJXrnddwUTGCp4IhvJe/s16000/back%20crotch.jpg" title="Fitting the Esti top and trousers or shorts co-ord sewing pattern by Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />2) Shortening the front crotch</div><div><br /></div>If you can see lines dragging down from the front crotch that resemble frown lines, it may be a sign that it needs less length. On the front leg piece, mark around 10mm (3/8in) from the end of the crotch seam and, with a ruler or steady hand, re-draw the inner leg seam so that it gently tapers into this point. Cut away the excess.
A little removed goes a long way with this alteration, so don’t rush into taking off too much – it can be a process of trial and error!<div><br /></div><div>And that's it! Remember, these are the most common adjustments you might want to consider for your Esti top and trousers or shorts, not a comprehensive list. And you might not need to do any at all! </div><div><br /></div><div>Please tag us on Instagram @TillyButtons with the hashtag #SewingEsti. We can't wait to see what you make! </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>------------------------------------</div><div>Author: Nikki Hoar</div><div><p>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sarahbritner/" target="_blank">Sarah Britner</a> & <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/03/whatsophiesmaking" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a><br />Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />MUAH: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lauraannemakeup/" target="_blank">Laura Ann</a><br />Samples: Sewn by Vanessa Allen</p><p><a href="https://gridfabrics.com/products/whatnot-navy-rayon?_pos=4&_sid=439967872&_ss=r" target="_blank">Ruby Star rayon</a> - Grid Fabrics<br /><a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1240449/robert-kaufman-limerick-100-linen-fabric-periwinkle&variant=1240427" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman Limerick linen gingham</a> - Minerva<br /><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/robert-kaufman-essex" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman Essex linen in willow</a> - Love Crafts</p></div></div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-64415040603008081752023-06-07T09:00:00.244+01:002023-10-14T09:10:06.542+01:00Say Hello to Esti - the Ultimate Summer Co-ord!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPzvtN6JmmTj3uknrqqvXdrR9WQFU7qzOca0ZZyrS_crYvz6ngt_tB7s02gshxJ7bJROVsk3AzgPiKS0Siiq1j5hJCsT6qp48_DuAIozz9MN4jGDiqeqHGRKH42_Bv6wOhEoWWAeKlWoyJIrRdoRFQYeuUP2uOC6Ip65H-HNEZboW9S1nMF_5Kzuxcl8g/s866/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_01.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Photo collage of two models wearing trouser and top sets, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPzvtN6JmmTj3uknrqqvXdrR9WQFU7qzOca0ZZyrS_crYvz6ngt_tB7s02gshxJ7bJROVsk3AzgPiKS0Siiq1j5hJCsT6qp48_DuAIozz9MN4jGDiqeqHGRKH42_Bv6wOhEoWWAeKlWoyJIrRdoRFQYeuUP2uOC6Ip65H-HNEZboW9S1nMF_5Kzuxcl8g/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_01.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Say hello to simple summer sewing with our <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank">Esti Co-ord sewing pattern</a>!</div><p>Our Esti top-and-trouser co-ord sewing pattern makes an instant outfit, staple separates for layering, or even a chic faux jumpsuit. It's an easy sewing project that's great for beginners, and a speedy, satisfying make for more experienced stitchers. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank"><b>ORDER ESTI HERE</b></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Model wearing a summery matching gingham shorts and top set, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLs6cJrLOpRU9splqOcLmiZ73sj6mPjJoN1sFbKTm_MevS5TjQXAupX_PPcUhRbbAF1gGFvtUNhSqMW5ZaE-l1h2smN20fQlIVF5A2DqkPxHzm6Z9Y7TkN7PC18rDgRwKfmPukOvlr6t6zZuaPkevYL0xoxwzYNuwyGmxLCXiW7-Kz7zU3mVZe9nz6hA/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_04.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyz5N2lVzuuAiKgw_UkI8DbhliPr5faMvymn2iki-ttaQy9KMD9KrROmk9vZsYZSWJdBYyJ03-Qr7TF9_w8Q3R5yyjhhME5-taI_RMk7L8PPbi1-UwiRiv1R3tAtQt6uLT1sBw7izNYIkAq5doGrF-76jYekCVRO8NYEF_ToPL1en1FlVCpJLumoln2k/s867/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_03.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing matching top and trouser co-ord in a pastel lilac. The set was made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyz5N2lVzuuAiKgw_UkI8DbhliPr5faMvymn2iki-ttaQy9KMD9KrROmk9vZsYZSWJdBYyJ03-Qr7TF9_w8Q3R5yyjhhME5-taI_RMk7L8PPbi1-UwiRiv1R3tAtQt6uLT1sBw7izNYIkAq5doGrF-76jYekCVRO8NYEF_ToPL1en1FlVCpJLumoln2k/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_03.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><img alt="Model wearing a faux jumpsuit in a bold brushstroke print. The look was created with a matching top and trouser set, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRL7lIosNmTNvbDseItSDzca_Qgfvkz6pcngg5aiPhS-HO0xC_cBuKYuTvggtJ9giWUH6TcbaYsce73uNwXaDWqG0e__h0P1ngbtoG_Vr-V7rc3OJ6CP7Cg8DMn4h2oAU6PG1PHMOqq1_rRof39gOtGr64ghGCMc3mc0B2I10b_--7nqE5wWs9pPsA5w/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_02.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Technical drawing of the Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLZ3xkreFJGJJFpVVI6HPY6IBK8pfT15X1t9I4rkGx71zbF8u8mKU5EA6qN55cv9jdz4A57zVs_S3dPE8PwGEouEI8nKDHgxireKTM5y1_-h1bMB9sZeCQGZ9g4rhXX-Unv3Tk8RNyHZe2ME7gjfoPQTFHhUuJi9afbsAq49GYA68_Gd7Ojp2w1f0zQ/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_05.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: center;">THE PATTERN DESIGN</h3><p style="text-align: left;">Esti is a two-piece set comprising a strappy top and trousers or shorts, which you can make to be worn together or separately.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The top has:</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Chic square neckline</li><li>Straps wide enough to cover a bra</li><li>Diagonal bust darts for shaping</li><li>Two lengths - finishing at the waist or high hip</li><li>Finished with an easy-to-sew facing on the inside</li></ul><p></p><p style="text-align: left;">The bottoms have:</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Wide, slightly flared legs</li><li>Choice of three hem lengths - shorts, cropped or full length trousers</li><li>Elasticated waist all the way around, finished with topstitching</li><li>Optional large patch pockets on the bum</li></ul><div>If you know the Safiya trousers from my book <i><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/make-it-simple" target="_blank">Make It Simple</a></i>, you may be wondering how the trousers compare to those. The Esti trousers have wider, more flared legs (Safiya legs are straighter), a higher rise at the back, the waistline is elasticated all the way around (Safiya has a flat front) and finished with topstitching, they come in three lengths (Safiya trousers are cropped), plus they're available in 15 sizes from UK 6-34 as a separate pattern to the book.</div><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/esti" target="_blank"><b>ORDER ESTI HERE<span><a name='more'></a></span></b></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Model wearing a faux jumpsuit in a bold brushstroke print. The look was created with a matching top and trouser set, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi12ly-Xa7a16EGpb5ZEUn7lDzgJA3chfjUiewb2qU_L2jDw-um8slvrzA_YDJw88-JD5nPG-sLohUkQflO00S8nPcH331Qrp5-TQBZJ7AzQYy0Rmf5-y4F9MRxS3-wJAxMt471linjEIiWD843zoZivvtTB4Wqsrjjfj5WdrjH7XU4AsDgmIWM6-ZSmw/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_06.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></div><img alt="Model wearing a faux jumpsuit in a bold brushstroke print. The look was created with a matching top and trouser set, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2quLLOHC52GZGebhuOhFVZqpWVI5fF5WBztwSdnlq-YX759AqhPeHL-lIy2YCWcjb3FjZdPeOfkhivNwhLVHrMbBRsAJb-XgXVj96rrKm8c1AqxJRIuVq9jTkdxu7RRSgbisdWQZGvQKXfn49BwrrE7clMqsxy51AZkYMgNtOR3TnFvyPXM5M8Z-V9Q/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_07.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Model wearing a faux jumpsuit in a bold brushstroke print. The look was created with a matching top and trouser set, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrosl1IcHsE6rVfdb33oR8l-eOiIWM9kFNiEZJNGA01ea7cEAfmgMCyEBlZZLDsTnqcwapwhFHmNAY6_N5NPxvMh65kUXA5iXOZipydtnEJh5-m1Ddbw3KzP5xbVrRkafzdrCoGHRvXA2jvlNGfC9kArwIcnZ5RjAC8Z8PjWdWfUTN7JViSSWf1hyx1g/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_08.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGgCkKxmRMlbgjhTF1w-xwVDrU_sHkd2uaPP2gN5-Sf-5T9yI8W8pV3Kk1vP5940ygA4-BOUaCzTf4S4pob_ulci7YJ9_FAXKtGDyemgheogTcQTsqMo4ZWS_KlpCa6Wim3A7DIEZemBiiKPuTCkqBBsNTAMhA94UrtUjZkquBuo4XgFx19U-YNSjQ3A/s866/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_09.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons Esti Co-ord sewing pattern cover image" border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGgCkKxmRMlbgjhTF1w-xwVDrU_sHkd2uaPP2gN5-Sf-5T9yI8W8pV3Kk1vP5940ygA4-BOUaCzTf4S4pob_ulci7YJ9_FAXKtGDyemgheogTcQTsqMo4ZWS_KlpCa6Wim3A7DIEZemBiiKPuTCkqBBsNTAMhA94UrtUjZkquBuo4XgFx19U-YNSjQ3A/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_09.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti Co-ord sewing pattern cover image" /></a></div><div><h3 style="text-align: center;">SIZING AND FORMATS</h3><p>Esti is available either printed or PDF in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62. (<a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/uk-6-34-size-patterns" target="_blank">Shop our growing collection of printed UK 6-34 sewing patterns</a>)</p><p>Our award-winning sewing patterns feature clear instructions with step-by-step colour photos to guide you through the project. The pattern pieces themselves are clearly labelled so you can see which seam is which and how they go together. </p><p>Order the printed sewing pattern and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use repeatedly without tearing or scrunching up. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilMbTZ77A5OYupwlTzrC4cYjFk_FC-SNDd1ryq7sXjEj9DCYf6IlYk72yf_06wvrsq3vqVR9pFKKolHgPAIuJ-Wg40lRJcjHm1KSaSpDWRdazlQA61Mu6qGhMmeRU-qSNYQshZz71r9_fF16h8wi3urupNi00l_AqHb80W0NV7Hv-qxUXCjJldKQiM4zo/s867/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_10.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing matching top and trouser co-ord in lilac linen. The set was made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilMbTZ77A5OYupwlTzrC4cYjFk_FC-SNDd1ryq7sXjEj9DCYf6IlYk72yf_06wvrsq3vqVR9pFKKolHgPAIuJ-Wg40lRJcjHm1KSaSpDWRdazlQA61Mu6qGhMmeRU-qSNYQshZz71r9_fF16h8wi3urupNi00l_AqHb80W0NV7Hv-qxUXCjJldKQiM4zo/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_10.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY90g-GV_qqf_ce9h50EdtOOH3fa0jUohVl5mYNO6U_U1py-kRDGBpqCBAOOX76o8DmYFbESN32NWYjYIc7UIjp7y-ZRdhG33uQi1_b5EB0FQGKuCypbzil8daSAZVi6W14_co77vbrmOblpws-VSatfCk_r1FrdK2AxS4x7h44DdRpQaPG4pX0Edq2E0/s867/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_11.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing matching top and trouser co-ord in lilac linen. The set was made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY90g-GV_qqf_ce9h50EdtOOH3fa0jUohVl5mYNO6U_U1py-kRDGBpqCBAOOX76o8DmYFbESN32NWYjYIc7UIjp7y-ZRdhG33uQi1_b5EB0FQGKuCypbzil8daSAZVi6W14_co77vbrmOblpws-VSatfCk_r1FrdK2AxS4x7h44DdRpQaPG4pX0Edq2E0/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_11.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CZJpl6vmnToKfbLxIZ0JJMkiSGiJGt5RpOL1nT3Bfj4AQ1yxbGfT7N9wNVd3RKOFYrKAZBoGHTNFTPAOfXCv2cy-VfiBeAVUNPxSbUxx4cxivIWxfv3MbiphcQgJ1nzAMmkrKH26nR7OfQObHSP096ZASAO0JNnGX9PaSVA0dTlzKhQ5bnnVWgoyJk0/s867/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_12.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing matching top and trouser co-ord in lilac linen. The set was made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern." border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CZJpl6vmnToKfbLxIZ0JJMkiSGiJGt5RpOL1nT3Bfj4AQ1yxbGfT7N9wNVd3RKOFYrKAZBoGHTNFTPAOfXCv2cy-VfiBeAVUNPxSbUxx4cxivIWxfv3MbiphcQgJ1nzAMmkrKH26nR7OfQObHSP096ZASAO0JNnGX9PaSVA0dTlzKhQ5bnnVWgoyJk0/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_12.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></a></p><p>Esti is also available as an instant PDF download. You'll get an email straight after purchase with a PDF to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. Need further help? <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/01/how-to-use-digital-sewing-patterns.html" target="_blank">Read our guide to using PDFs</a>.</p><p></p></div><div><h3 style="text-align: center;">FABRICS AND SUPPLIES</h3><p>Ideal for all your favourite spring/summer fabrics, Esti is designed for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics. </p><p>Try linen or chambray for a more structured silhouette, or viscose (rayon) or Tencel (lyocell) for a drapier look.</p><p>Check out the <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/esti.html" target="_blank">Esti sewing support page</a> for our sewing and fabric inspiration post!</p><p>If you've spotted the eye-catching blue linen with a white block print in the Esti sewing pattern instructions and you're wondering where it's from... we made it! Keep your eyes on our social media for a video from the team DIY-ing this fabric with sponges and paint.</p><p><img alt="Model wearing a summery blue gingham shorts and top, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQv8qp_GZRyymQDVJRThjqmXiaGL7ICrQLdQ-65JPb9zPCite7oInq-9zBXfgtLz7SzUrD9OuzZ904babQRy96D-LE67lCrGcaHf6wa2RLpvIFdgUbqIeGcadrvcFMboNZgzEruT6riggOqAZ7eCqPPvoikiEhLVQ1oE6j7TvhKu5WFBoYgOCy2m92w/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_12.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><img alt="Model wearing a summery blue gingham shorts and top, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6vmmB77ebV9e-F04257FtV0Ord7bRHb7GuHC-Xn772RRNRoxtTDpDoWzs-l_sT6F_bpqlUaYTIK-t69bYVLQXejnyk4I0Et06iHbtuTrZmJalk5TJDVD_M1YqfxYYJAsU1vAffYzDJk90lW3xZ2q2ifrY1wbcfT-3mwouM5hhq1fWsfuqyQ-FhtmzVQ/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_13.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><img alt="Model wearing a summery blue gingham shorts and top, made using the Esti co-ord sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMFNF-nLff-qQfy6KAxl-UHbvjgDiGdwZxPybUsDq8SG-Htvx1JDY8zIU_cSjWMsNb0iejAr0FZcZ91h0qiQOZ9qxo9atJbDDnLEFPERvcsamK14XKslIwwPZg41P5xKdoynOq-NCxGB-X6rCXL7yXNNWjqpU5nTErLNrtaiX2jgtOWcuCDesLJ7js5Q/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_14.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /><img alt="A flat-lay showing a sewing step from the Esti sewing pattern booklet" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYwLJzo38g6GchHK3NM52ivP809flgQeO3u3qUvJtjuJ54cS8BZiaTY_oXqSND1rl4cDW12w1T_NOM1NfWtbYsspMj-Ore3m--jMKGSuvVXigF6OiVSmQ7mpo49WnqYuYJhKERcDNxgh8cDtXnln1zwK8c-rwwFGZwA9pvzdS4GUF13xWMms2kLfjQQ/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_18.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></p><h3 style="text-align: center;">TIPS AND TUTORIALS</h3><p>Esti is a sewing pattern aimed at 'confident beginners'. The trousers are actually easy enough for complete beginners and would make a perfect first sewing project. The top is one step on, partly because it involves understitching, which can be a little fiddly the first time you do it, and partly because, like many bodices, it may require some fitting depending on your shape.</p><p>If you need a helping hand, we have a wealth of free sewing tutorials on the blog, including <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/10/how-to-stitch-in-ditch-with-video.html" target="_blank">How to Stitch in the Ditch</a> and <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2018/08/understitching-tips.html" target="_blank">Five Tips for Neat Understitching,</a> and fitting help will be available soon via the dedicated <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/esti.html" target="_blank">Esti support page</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A flat-lay of a finished Esti co-ord" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10TLBcf5OAaJvfx5nWVHA-txdCoKM-VNVtM9LrgKk6tZijPY9IEewhNJ9MhqEDqCCkfjaszgTIImh2KMVQTnXwzDyN7sSK8obZN6lH7JqffhHHs2ycZh_YQv_Nno50_rGZNeZplJVO5zjbBNr2n9sC0oi-H1WdHdnWPQAuhSaIosjCFJ6xj-3z0ue0Q/s16000/Tilly_and_the_Buttons_Esti_sewing_pattern_blog_17.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons Esti co-ord sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" /></div><p>We hope you enjoy making and wearing Esti!</p><p>We can't wait to see your Esti makes and in-progress shots. Don't forget to tag us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tillybuttons/" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> using the hashtag <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingesti/" target="_blank">#SewingEsti</a> so we, and the Insta sewing community, can see what you're making!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXynfkUc0vP-rWZ7Pse6sjTrpKoZ3nfcY96IMrzbZbBkZ2XWmSHUOXBmf2hW8xlSg1XK0I7MEHWv_gnh44swXF-8ERk42zvo3aYKy0TixTzWDbzvmt0KPXTodk19zXxZxd9aMlgfPQa-OdNjf3BuHO3R5urjkd0tW04mHCnVuoy9i7kxOmkJ6cQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>*****</p><p>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sarahbritner/" target="_blank">Sarah Britner</a> & <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/03/whatsophiesmaking" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a><br />Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />MUAH: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lauraannemakeup/" target="_blank">Laura Ann</a><br />Samples: Sewn by Vanessa Allen</p><p><a href="https://gridfabrics.com/products/whatnot-navy-rayon?_pos=4&_sid=439967872&_ss=r" target="_blank">Ruby Star rayon</a> - Grid Fabrics<br /><a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1240449/robert-kaufman-limerick-100-linen-fabric-periwinkle&variant=1240427" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman Limerick linen gingham</a> - Minerva<br /><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/robert-kaufman-essex" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman Essex linen in willow</a> - Love Crafts</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-76847650944401685962023-05-31T12:00:00.001+01:002023-05-31T14:35:37.824+01:00How to Do Bust Adjustments for a Bust Darted Bodice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="650" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbTic68Fqx8/XXelnXucIZI/AAAAAAAACls/XTmZ7mMO5qgGqxFqr8iiqQKF56OWwYW-gCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B1.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Do you ever wish your me-mades fit better across the bust? Do you find that excess fabric seems to pool around your bust, or that it's too tight? Ever think that the bust darts point in the wrong place on your garments? If you're finding yourself nodding enthusiastically in agreement to any of these statements, then you probably need to do a bust adjustment to your bodice pattern pieces.<br />
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It's Nikki here, Product Manager and fitting geek at Tilly and the Buttons, and I'm going to to talk you through how to do a full bust adjustment, a small bust adjustment and how to move the dart on a bust darted bodice.<br />
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Now, before we go any further I'd like to give you a little positive pattern pep talk. There are a few diagrams in this post, but whilst they might look quite daunting, they are relatively simple if you follow them step by step :)<br />
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<b>How do I know if I need a bust adjustment?</b><br />
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There's a technical and a not-so-technical answer here! The answer depends on your own unique shape and the fit of the garment - you may not need to do a bust adjustment to a loose top or dress, but might have to do one on something more fitted. If you find that things are generally either too tight or too loose in the bust area, then I'd recommend <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/11/when-why-how-to-make-toile-or-muslin.html" target="_blank">making a quick toile of the bodice, or wearable toile</a> of the whole garment to test the fit around the bust and take it from there. I'm going to briefly cover how you would work out how much to add or subtract from your bust in the adjustment, but do remember this is just a rough framework, and you might not need to do it at all.<br />
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Measure your high bust (your upper chest, just under your armpits). If you're making a pattern in our sizes UK 6-24 size band, add 5cm (2in). If you're making a pattern in our sizes 16-34 size band, add 10cm (4in). Choose the pattern size with that bust measurement – this is the size you’ll do your bust adjustment on.<div>
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Now measure your full bust (fullest part, around the nipples) and compare it to the bust measurement on the pattern size you just selected.<br />
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If your full bust is 5cm (2in) smaller than the pattern, you’ll be subtracting 5cm (2in) from the pattern; if it’s 7.5cm (3in) bigger, you’ll be adding 7.5cm (3in) and so on. If you need to make the bust bigger, you'll need to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) and if you need to make it smaller, you'll need to do a small bust adjustment (SBA).<br />
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Since the front bodice pattern represents one half of the top, as the fabric is cut on the fold - or one boob - you'll be adding or subtracting half of that difference. So, if you want to do a 5cm (2in) full bust adjustment, you'll need to add 2.5cm (1in) to the pattern piece.<br />
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There are a few ways in which you can do a bust adjustment, but the method I'm going to show you today is the "slash and spread" method. It sounds a bit aggressive but this just means that you do the adjustment by cutting into your pattern piece and either spread it apart to create more space at the bust, or overlap it to make it smaller.<br />
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To do a bust adjustment you will need:<br />
<ul>
<li>a ruler (or pattern master if you have one)</li>
<li>glue stick and/or sticky tape</li>
<li>pencil</li>
<li>paper scissors</li>
<li>extra paper</li>
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As you'll be merrily snipping into your pattern piece with wild abandon for these adjustments, I thoroughly suggest tracing off the front bodice pattern piece so you can keep the original one intact in case you need to make any further adjustments. Make sure you trace all the notches, the dart and 'lengthen or shorten here' lines onto the new pattern piece.<br />
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Got your scissors and ruler at the ready? Ok, let's go. And remember, you've got this!</div><div>
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<b>Full bust and small bust adjustments</b><br />
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<a name='more'></a>The first few steps of both the full bust adjustment and small bust adjustments are the same. Once you finish the steps in this section, pick either the full bust or small bust adjustment sections below :)<br />
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Before we grab our scissors and start snipping into our pattern, we need to draw on the front bodice pattern piece in several places. I've drawn these in different colours to make them easily identifiable.<br />
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Firstly, we need to find the approximate bust apex, otherwise known as the bust point. The bust apex will differ from person to person, as all of our bodies are different. The easiest way to find this is to hold the pattern piece up to your body. Hold the front bodice so the shoulder line lies 15mm (5/8in) over your actual shoulder line. Make a marking where the fullest part of your bust is (the fullest part of the bust, most likely the nipple). This is your apex. </div>
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Now, if you draw a straight line through the centre of the dart, the apex should sit around 2.5cm (1in) away from the point of the dart, and this is where it's sitting in the diagrams below. If your bust apex isn't this distance from the tip of the dart or isn't in line with it, you can easily move the dart. Please see the <i>"moving the bust dart"</i> section below. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BkaXIrpzvNg/XXenRvqOTrI/AAAAAAAACmA/AtCkVyRREpA3IzRzKOqogbKa3_d98_p-wCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BkaXIrpzvNg/XXenRvqOTrI/AAAAAAAACmA/AtCkVyRREpA3IzRzKOqogbKa3_d98_p-wCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B2.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div>
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Draw a line through the centre of the dart from the side seam to the tip, and to the apex. This is the green line on the above diagram. The end of this line is also the bust apex. </div>
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Next, draw a straight line from the bottom of the bodice up to the bust apex (the end of the green line) and then pivot to hit around a third way up the armhole (technically, the armscye). I've shown this line in purple here. Make sure the vertical line is parallel to the grainline. Where the line joins the armhole, mark the seam allowance - this is shown here with a dotted line.</div>
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Finally, draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the pattern, on the opposite side of the vertical line to the dart. This is shown here in pink. It doesn't have to be anywhere specific, just as long as it's nearish the bottom is fine. </div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mIF_JbIJLaE/XXeppldKkMI/AAAAAAAACmw/7IWWEdOWbboaEBLIEdha7lPT4DbNsadcgCLcBGAs/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B3.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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It's time to grab those paper scissors and get snipping! We need to create two "hinges" on the pattern which will allow us to move the paper without it separating. This is achieved by stopping cutting a smidge before the end of the line - don't be shy about getting right up to the line, but try as hard as you can to not actually snip through!<br />
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The first line to cut is the green line through the dart. Cut, starting at the side seam and stop just before the end. Now, cut through the purple line, starting at the bottom of the bodice and ending a smidge before the dotted seam allowance line. From the other side of the seam allowance, cut from the edge at the armhole and stop just before the seam allowance line.<br />
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You will now have two pivot points - one at the tip of the dart and one at the armhole. They are very delicate so be careful! The final line we need to cut is the pink, horizontal line. We don't need to create a pivot point so cut right across the line to separate it from the rest of the pattern piece.<br />
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<b>Full bust adjustment (FBA)</b><br />
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zJC1r51m9qQ/XXeuOwzkwcI/AAAAAAAACnI/cbM0aMbsAGcXxpuSpoMEhClcVWjbg2YUACLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B4.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Get a piece of paper around the size of your bodice pattern piece and draw two vertical lines, with the distance between them the amount you want to increase the bust size by, divided by two. So for example, if you want to add 5cm (2in), the distance between the lines will be 2.5cm (1in). Don't forget, the front bodice piece represents one half of the top (or put more simply, one boob), so a 2.5cm FBA will add up to 5cm (2in) overall.<br />
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Carefully place the pattern piece on top of the paper. We need to line up the vertical, cut lines on the pattern with these lines, using those very helpful pivot points we've just made. The easiest way to do this is to align the vertical line above the pink line first. Stick it down using a glue stick or sticky tape. Now, gently pull the dart down so the vertical edge under the dart sits flush with the other vertical line and stick in place.<br />
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This will have increased the size of the dart and therefore made the pattern piece longer than it was originally, so we need to extend the bodice on the other side. Draw a vertical line down from the straight seam, and a horizontal line at the bottom. Using these lines as a guide, align the remaining bodice piece (the one we made when we cut the pink line) and stick in place.<br />
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="467" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i-W73seCXgU/XXeucz1_NoI/AAAAAAAACnU/5ym7J54blDYXZ3XovAVhl4Jc6xcvZcKYQCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B5.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Next up, we need to re-draw the side seams and the dart (aka the sticky out bit) so the seams match up. </div>
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To re-draw the dart, measure 2.5cm (1in) horizontally from the bust apex towards the side seam. This will be the new dart point. Draw new dart legs, starting at their original positions at the side seam to meet the new dart point.</div>
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You'll notice that the armhole (armscye) looks a bit uneven. Draw a new line to smooth out this seam. </div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dEqUFmham1A/XXe_EJWuNgI/AAAAAAAACno/TQUndfOOHGwjogUWwvcE71hJ0std8u0EwCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B6.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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We now need to re-draw the side seams at the dart. Now, there's a cheat way and a "proper" way here. The cheat way is to extend the current side seams so that they meet in the middle to make a new dart. This isn't always 100% accurate, so if you want to know how to do the proper way, read on :)</div>
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Fold the bottom leg of the dart up so it meets the top dart leg. This is a bit tricky to do on paper and will make your pattern piece stick out. The most important bit here is making sure the dart legs meet up on the side seam. Temporarily tape the dart together so it doesn't slip out of place. Roll a tracing wheel over the side seam - if you don't have a tracing wheel, punch through the paper every 5mm (1/4in) or so to mark it. </div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="451" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I4ebxuv_2aU/XXe_vmuQ3II/AAAAAAAACn0/74JFk8bwDuoHa15ykexzBHqXFmVyrSlmwCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B7.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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We're on to the last step! Un-tape the dart and draw over the markings you made with the tracing wheel or pins. The final thing we need to do is bring in the side seam so it's not too big at the waist. At the bottom of the bodice at the side seam, measure in the amount you increased the bust by - i.e. 2.5cm (1in) if that's what you added - and redraw the side seam with a smooth, curved line. This is shown above in blue.</div>
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All that's left to do is cut away any excess paper to leave you with a newly altered bodice :)</div>
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And that's it, you've successfully done a full bust adjustment on a bust darted bodice! Give yourself a huge pat on the back, you've just gone up a sewing level (+100 sewing points).</div>
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<b>Small bust adjustment (SBA)</b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zRyM_3MWYIg/XXfJzr-SV5I/AAAAAAAACo4/qGv3AxQxSwQmGveuHnjKbCU0Bs52OGdqgCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="550" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zRyM_3MWYIg/XXfJzr-SV5I/AAAAAAAACo4/qGv3AxQxSwQmGveuHnjKbCU0Bs52OGdqgCLcBGAs/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B8.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div>
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We need to work out how much we want to decrease the bust by. If you want to decrease the bust by 5cm (2in), we need to decrease the pattern piece by half that amount, as this adjustment will be applied to both sides. </div>
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Measure the amount you want to decrease the bust by from the bust apex away from the dart and mark it. Draw a vertical line from the bottom of the bodice up to the marking you just made, and a bit beyond. This line should be parallel to the grainline. </div>
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Gently hold the bottom of the pattern piece, under the dart, and manoeuvre it so the cut line is aligned with the vertical line we just drew. This with move the dart slightly up. Stick in place with a glue stick or sticky tape.</div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tDwmFL5eQcA/XXfJz6aWS2I/AAAAAAAACpA/oyydf1q7lK81wLMsZKbRxGULmgZ0shSNgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B9.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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The bodice will not be slightly shorter than it was originally. We now need to re-attach the little rectangular bit of bodice we cut earlier. This is super easy to do - line it up with the rest of the bodice at the vertical side seam and the bottom and stick in place. </div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="494" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tikaWRAeieA/XXi47jxbpCI/AAAAAAAACqM/3pmQ8cAPt4YIa85YjQ5ZNDJnnrRtc6ZdACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Bust%2Badjutsments%2Bbust%2Bdarted%2Bbodice%2Bfitting%2B10.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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All that's left to do is to re-draw the seams. Get a piece of paper and stick it underneath the bodice - we only need to redraw the side seam and smooth out the armhole a little so it only needs to cover those areas. </div>
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The seam at the armhole (the armscye) will be a bit wonky after all that pivoting, so smooth out the seam with a pen or pencil. We also need to re-draw the dart. Horizontally measure 2.5cm (1in) away from the bust apex towards the dart - the bit where all the lines are meeting - and mark it. This is the new dart point. Draw from this new point to the end of the dart legs. They might be hidden underneath the paper as there will be some overlapping here, so if you can't see it clearly fold back the top layer to reveal the ends of the dart legs.</div>
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Lastly but by no means least we need to bring out the side seam under the dart. As we have reduced the width across the bodice we need to add it at the sides so that it's the correct width at the waist and not too small! <span style="background-color: white;">Say for example we reduced the bust by 2.5cm (1in), measure out by that amount at the side and draw a smooth, curved line to meet the side seam just under the dart.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span> <span style="background-color: white;">And hey presto, you have successfully done a small bust adjustment on a darted bodice. Happy days indeed. </span><br />
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<b>Moving the bust dart</b><br />
<b><br /></b> The final bust adjustment we're going to cover is moving the bust dart. All of our bodies are different and you may notice that the dart is sitting too high or low for your bust, and perhaps too far in or out. If it's sitting in the wrong place, the fullness will be hitting your bust at the wrong position and it can make the dart look a bit pointy too.<br />
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The bust dart is meant to point towards your bust apex (the fullest part of the bust, usually the nipples). The easiest and quickest way to find out if the dart is in the right place on the pattern is to hold the front bodice so the shoulder line lies 15mm (5/8in) over your actual shoulder line. Make a marking where the fullest part of your bust is (the fullest part of the bust, most likely the nipple). This is your apex. Alternatively, you can also make a quick toile of the bodice and mark on the fabric where the apex is, and compare it to the pattern piece.<br />
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If you draw a line down the centre of the dart, the bust apex should sit approx 2.5cm (1in) beyond the tip of the dart. If your marking is in a different place, you may want to move the bust dart.<br />
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If you think this applies to you and that you need to move the bust dart to a new position, then read on.<br />
<b><br /></b> <b>Moving the bust dart vertically</b><br />
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cNgYAK3JZxI/XXfOi7KP3II/AAAAAAAACpQ/BZgbyzf-adIe9co3nAg9Dw8u6-aCV6hmACLcBGAs/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B1.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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First things first, we need to draw a rectangle around the bust dart and cut it out to completely remove it from the bodice. Make sure the vertical line is parallel to the grainline.<br />
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nZTfz_A9Xgs/XXfQyIOhbPI/AAAAAAAACpk/93wfrLDo8AoTvhw5eJylktoL_ePQPCxzQCLcBGAs/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B2.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Whilst keeping the vertical lines flush with each other, move the rectangle up or down by the amount you want to move the dart by. Stick down using a glue stick or sticky tape. Re-draw the side seams so that they join up smoothly with the dart legs. And that's it, easy peasy :) </div>
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<b>Moving the bust dart horizontally</b><b> and vertically</b></div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cNgYAK3JZxI/XXfOi7KP3II/AAAAAAAACpU/rlsPMP6GijQ2vKX6IaZMv_J4TQ9sz5JLwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B1.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Depending on where your bust apex sits, you might want to move the bust dart horizontally and vertically. Luckily, this is pretty simple to do! </div>
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Start by drawing a rectangle around the dart and cut it out.</div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="158" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5cFm6dgDZeo/XXfQyFs7VpI/AAAAAAAACpw/l6ROAu2mVZENCfV3MI05UzEGk0vGqwslgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B4.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Draw a vertical line down the middle of the rectangle and cut it to split it in two.<br />
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fpxM2fz1sHk/XXfSHzwRCSI/AAAAAAAACqA/MinFpz76SxolCp3Pz_EzESGazJR-dBMYgCLcBGAs/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B5.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Work out how much you want to move the bust dart by. In the above example I've moved it 1.5cm (5/8in) down and 1cm (3/8in) out to the side seams. Make sure you keep the rectangle parallel to the existing horizontal and vertical lines. Take the piece with the tip of the bust dart and stick it down using a glue stick or sticky tape to its new position. </div>
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<img alt="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" border="0" data-original-height="267" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eJoGFSSVCRA/XXfQzDP27SI/AAAAAAAACp4/m7jpfcEkChIZ9v3vD_R40Fr1GbaMFrfDACEwYBhgL/s1600/Fitting%2BIndigo%2Bsmock%2Btop%2Bdress%2Bpattern%2Bbust%2Badjustment%2Bmove%2Bdart%2B6.jpg" title="Bust adjustments bust darted bodice bodice pattern fitting - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div>
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Take the remaining piece of the rectangle and line it up with the side seams as best you can, and the first bit of paper you suck down. If you're moving the dart tip towards the side seam, there will be some overlap (like the example above). Stick it in place. Redraw the side seams. You'll also need to re-draw the dart - draw from the point of the dart to the end of the dart line at the side seams.</div>
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If you want to move the dart inwards, the process is exactly the same, except you'll need to add a bit of paper underneath as there will be a gap here instead of an overlap. </div>
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And that's it! I hope you found this post useful. Don't forget, you can use these adjustments on any pattern with a bust darted bodice so make sure you bookmark this page so you can revisit it again. </div>
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<i>Liked this post? Check out <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/lengthening-or-shortening-pattern-pieces.html" target="_blank">How to Lengthen or Shorten a Sewing Pattern</a> and <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/combining-pattern-sizes.html" target="_blank">How to Combine Pattern Sizes</a>. </i></div>
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</div>Laurahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04744452281179504196noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-57429014746675748412023-05-17T12:00:00.138+01:002023-05-17T12:00:00.132+01:00Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9AH4f_MLfqBbnM_yBgKXrHbs7O9AMYh42pWx3URzyYB8M4Sc3PxUSMevUhCMAIMFHaZFrz-yMH9eVLxzX8XUypgbcwiysV08sq5OvjC_Uje-_-Oibj_eXOwg_SsYdwaBPbLvGZjtER1ZDgPC5vOavzOLmbrCipjLX0JTV5aL9XCDJHcp5Uez1_wGP6Q/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%20-%20header.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><p>Knowing which side of your fabric is the “right side” is an essential part of any sewing project. </p><p>The “right side” of the fabric that is meant to be visible from the outside of your garment for everyone to see, while the “wrong side” is the side that will be hidden on the inside.</p><p>Sewing patterns will usually tell you to sew with right sides together, so the seams end up hidden on the inside of the garment. Exceptions include when you’re sewing French seams, in which case you start with the wrong sides together, or when you’re attaching a piece such as a patch pocket to a garment, when you’ll place the wrong side against the right side.</p><p>So it’s important to know which side is which! Some fabrics can be a lot easier to tell which is the right side than others. Others can be more tricky, but with these five simple tips, you should be able to identify yours in no time.</p><p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4rLgiiAHkew" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Black a floral fabric showing a clear right and wrong side." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6A0oTaqVeRW5tD0ytvslNS80Qbyu1-6y70F3oG3TJILCt_vfSTOsMR_MTuQOL2dOo3TrIyN_YKQZzzvN3yjJIWMFd6DFeCj28v6vi-WMFeRP7TwagxLS-WtJcLE045v8JagSVjNQ7YfnWVvWU-NkF8RDEuJusfOtFtfhoH47XCOo96EljiXeCBm6rUQ/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%2001.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">1) See if the right side looks different</h3><p>The first and most obvious way to check which side is which is to look for any visual differences between the two sides. If your fabric has a print on only one side, then that side is most likely the right side. If your fabric has a print on both sides, the right side may appear brighter than the wrong side. </p><p>In the case of solid fabrics, you can hold the fabric up to a light source to check for any differences in tone or sheen between the two sides. Choose which one you prefer and make sure to keep your fabric the same when up when cutting your fabric to keep it consistent.<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Fabric with a selvedge with the fabric designer's information and colour chart." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Ciz9Y6255bLc7TijkzsWDCwGQy7LmRNXnp_JTx-BV63zvqwBn4H_lFPuwVeHZD4Amiy-JwsVJ5QK70XFDEopDcwqf113HtxGPeNaRGCS4RXBNYwFL0ZPKEHB7MivUZN42rgWPV4_ZAztyV35WaUepgYN0TiapKvEcEItSd9_2_Qg0ai5NzOmEj_tDQ/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%2002.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">2) Check for printing on the selvedges<br /></h3><p>The selvedges are the finished edges that run lengthwise down two sides of the fabric, parallel to the grain. They are usually a different colour or texture to the rest of the fabric. </p><p>Look out for writing or markings printed on them, such as the brand name, colour chart or other info – this should be the right side. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A close up of the holes on a fabric's selvedge." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCYVbAjrk3ZUCoCOc6erqtslt9GxTtxijd7O6wLUn6VbH2oiz66O5Jn5B2Wxp0sMYQi9KMAff0LTs6bNdomP59kWq3zpD5FCyl4qVBm_S3MJrpMFOOBpGcJ2zq3uK7RRskXMlw_HBXujH_O9PvZs54WG9gEsZ4SQOwMUvKRWmzwqCz-swepnDXCqNWbA/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%2003.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">3) Examine the selvedge more closely</h3><p>Some selvedges have pinholes in them from the manufacturing process – they are usually inserted from the wrong side. </p><p>So run your finger gently across and if you feel raised dots on one side, then will probably be the right side. There can be exceptions though – some fabrics may be made the other way round, so don’t rely on this! Again, keep it consistent once you pick which side you prefer.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A close up of white jersey fabric, showing the right side on the left and the wrong side on the right." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHh6yS8L_NzMejj5tBBoGsYA08YVf_AtJsWnFJaXfYExeNCSO1W0DGAnvDH6AjizGn7aDvNELiXkC5P1OpErl9-5aHE6d0BlkG-p0u6flMTMQJ_tuGfMLz9Fj5vG2fv5Z75_2F-PtO90bCGtKCAppr33cAxdNUOYH-OmyRpchsJ55QlLZ_o4cTgflRmw/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%2006.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Grey sweatshirt fabric with a soft wrong side." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_tIJl_s28N50oR_XV3SumyLwG9bom-VhaJx6C04EzQhfuwFYyXdU5uHkADkdmywmAtucRDcSBKcCG_F46OQX1Ozb0DUsH19i1A7BscKDn5CK-jQOawhTJrOael00hLb6Vl9xq1qxCFhzleDtJGiLBOV4NjL8zD00F0VPcnLqO-D-Zf6IKLJ8AtVvEtA/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%2004.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">4) Look at the knitted structure</h3><p>Knit fabrics can be particularly tricky to differentiate the right side and the wrong side, particularly if your fabric is a solid colour or the design is woven into the fabric, such as stripes that are visible on both sides.</p><p>Take a closer look at the structure – the right side often has a smoother surface with vertical ribs or little Vs; the wrong side will often have horizontal loops. Sweatshirting or French terry fabric will have soft fleece or a loop-like texture on the back, making this easier to identify.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="White jersey fabric cut into a strip to demonstrate the fabric rolling inwards." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacygmyzIx1sGQkeZTJYTPeNjiKCi5zknpZ2uy4pK5xh5xuWCyTY_yuBjXrE9bpZjdbjy6F8IvaObkxGCUmEn5e5TAQmPSq1tLcW1Sa_BGF5zmEKfbs8WSwMWvZULEHYujrOCkjj08cEa-gBTA7CAZYfMJ_o0Bv5DCxY4VkWW33awvYbb3PMNoJQRf8w/s16000/Five%20ways%20to%20tell%20the%20right%20side%20of%20your%20fabric%2005.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Five Ways to Tell the Right Side of Your Fabric" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">5) Check which way the jersey rolls</h3><p>For jersey fabric, again you can look for vertical ribs to ascertain the right side.</p><p>Another way to tell is to cut along the crosswise grain, at a right angle to the selvedge. When stretched, the fabric will tend to roll to the right side. The selvedges or finished edges, on the other hand, will often roll to the wrong side. </p><p>--</p><p><i>Still can't tell the difference?</i></p><p>If you still can’t tell the difference between the right side and wrong side, your fabric may be double-sided and not have one! Pick one side to be the right side – whichever you prefer – and mark the wrong side with an X or W in chalk or washable pen so you can easily see which is which when sewing – just in case the difference becomes more obvious once you step out into the daylight in your finished me-made!</p><div><i>If you liked this blog post check out <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/04/ten-tips-for-sewing-with-fine-cotton.html" target="_blank">Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric</a>!</i></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-51913277136019245922023-05-03T12:00:00.146+01:002023-05-03T12:00:00.179+01:00How to Sew a Scallop Edge Stitch<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhjtpsMAM8_XUiXrgH6p4bYm1LMwH_vmql_HQ1qlfBxoLDirptnh2qyJtdHLpqtuZKWae_23nRSkQtbKG4JXOWtDYmxzaAYO7lful2ccQkT4U4jlssQkAPQE9OdfECMhojLzB1nsXeQy6pUxPqMCpesaJv6sbyr3dFxA7VRENQ1zIHebDJBDb15Jo2A/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%20-%20header.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><p>Have you ever tried sewing with a scallop edge stitch? If you're looking to add a charming, decorative touch to your sewing projects, it’s a beautiful option. Sewing a scallop stitch on your sewing machine is not only simple, but also a fun and creative way to add unique detailing to garments, accessories, and home decor items. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A close up picture showing a black scallop stitch on the edge of the ruffle on a plain light blue Marnie blouse." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinjkEuJysqbOHSUvzLriHFGoWUZBvUbNYsMY6xCKRBNsihOYpVwJAEia44j8j2hK7qWQ5Punn9dp6ZqsOgjuzxXbAOD6y-CtxV2HoKqdEilRqDniwbA0tqAW1S1KVjPp250FeT9Hec387QuPYBGGqHZMYN9EhOncsyRvjB2VlAqhWW4fCnms1zUWfsvQ/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2001.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A flat lay of the finished Marnie blouse displaying the scallop stitching." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvkqHaxH2IC7FvKZwNqfgKCzo1U3xyWqkg82QK9hOjDuPsY1MiJWCF50FCSNKmLKM2hyC9CDvuR4Qf8lrUmk740p4ZhFuWubc51LFUGefYEt7O1KCNHZkDEwPX0ByO-gXBLO3JqxX7foQ-ssTfzIAtYoRoqV7m7reeq0t9skR0L8SvJP43d-3CCo8lWg/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2007.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What is a scallop stitch?</h3><p>The scallop stitch is a decorative stitch on your sewing machine which creates a wavy effect. You can use it on its own to sew one or more pretty rows of stitching or, as I will be demonstrating here, along the edge of a hem, cutting away the fabric below to leave little scallops along the edge.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">What do I need to sew a scallop stitch?</h3><p>You will need a sewing machine that has the scallop stitch as an option, so check your manual to see if includes it. I’m using the Janome DKS100 Special Edition.</p><p>Depending on your fabric, you may also need some kind of stabiliser, such as spray starch, interfacing or embroidery stabiliser – I’ll talk about that a bit more below.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">What garment projects could I sew the scallop stitch on?</h3><p>In this tutorial, I'm sewing a scallop edge stitch on the hems of the shoulder ruffles on our <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse sewing pattern</a>. You could also try this on the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/lyra" target="_blank">Lyra shirt dress collar</a>, the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">hem of a Mabel dress</a> or the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/indigo" target="_blank">flounce sleeve hems of an Indigo smock</a>.</p><p>You can also sew scallops in the middle of a piece, like I have here on the front yoke of the Marnie blouse, in which case there’s no need to trim off the excess fabric. </p><p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lY2VkZB88qU" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="The Marnie shoulder ruffle piece with the hem pinned in place." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_448vf6yQYhXUAbhvtP4dbVVFYwwiDpqf8hGiFKwbUGP5ClxlYhORTqzD3zl-LR6iOmM6YKm_H4XvsSS13J6Eq3fZ0I42R_SNvgvXqoFJmPxNJd-5obiDJ_JSA6wz34kCeJfJzyRxCIDR82FifT7xkZC5omvz_4_2SUIF6Rh66GU1BHb0z6yQqr9vA/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2002.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Preparing your fabric to sew a scallop edge stitch</h3><p>Depending on your fabric, you may need to stabilise it to make sewing and trimming the scallops a little easier. </p><p>If your fabric is on the lightweight side, you may find sewing with two layers is better than one so your fabric doesn't bunch or get sucked into the machine.</p><p>You could also try using spray starch on your fabric pattern pieces where you'll be sewing the scallops.</p><p>Or cut a 1cm (3/8in) wide strip of iron-on interfacing or tear-away embroidery stabiliser (in a similar weight to your fabric) and apply it to the edge of your pattern piece.</p><p>For the cotton poplin I’m using for my Marnie blouse ruffles, I found the best method in this instance was to hem the edge of the ruffles as normal – i.e. press them under by 5mm (1/4in), then press under another 5mm (1/4in). The double layer of fabric creates a sturdy edge for the scallops to adorn.</p><p>As with most techniques, it’s always worth experimenting with different finishes on a scrap of fabric to see what suits your material best, before tackling your real project.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Scallop stitch settings</h3><p>Turn on your sewing machine and select the scallop stitch from the stitch selection panel. This stitch is typically represented by a series of U-shapes, sewn with zigzag stitches. </p><p>Attach the recommended stitch foot to your sewing machine (see your manual) – on my Janome DKS100, I’m using the default machine foot A, a multi-purpose foot which is used for general sewing.</p><p>You may wish to adjust the length and width of your scallops – again, do test it out on a scrap first. For this tutorial, I’m sticking to the default settings as they suited perfectly (don't you just love it when that happens!). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A close up of the Marnie ruffle under the sewing machine foot." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimyNwJJfWx8Z181w0U3JtmYDQ8-osjJZQGiu8odOREWlryXkD2rNkfuk9ZGKWEvnCgNxAI38AnfAsBt5L4ghV5hm8YfJz9BDmJ5OWJkGrsUxMePdlMAbt6n2xleYSwBWLMHZGIVZS6sVHmiDjhVA6-RqqXq4ghIvg8RsRMmrZgczNYi2uTUvgI9IBvEg/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2003.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Sewing scallops</h3><p>Place your fabric under the foot about 1cm (3/8in) away from the edge, right side up. </p><p>Lower the presser foot and, without back tacking, begin sewing. Sew slowly (warning: this does take a while, but it's worth it!) and make sure to carefully guide your fabric, not pulling it through as you don't want to distort your scallops. Continue sewing until you reach the end of your fabric.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A close up of the finished scallop edge stitch, showing the right and wrong sides." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaVgismmG2yi7ccp5BUT7uFaNQupkNt7jyyKmrxLB8XtZAbixUwTPVATLOtgGbusdRYewxr1PmXlHXJe0rkr7VIidkawaz8rdeul5dTlJdsLebV2gmN3Yx5j-IefrQUdAYtuFJjyR-1nN6BFRFNKFf6pLUjrzWbUq8lI8ID-HImFGMJ4dpon4JHo_CEA/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2004.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Showing the scallops in the process of being cut out." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5qJYA5LJ9LCuKpQgou0nX6_1JOj0-ra5WHZl8iUh2wJCLDZ9FQngf9BJ9XmV4oRtmOEjSD5o-zT2WYKl6jaFMBmtiHWeAy3JfYxW1VTRKUN0BZ5clij_FiyROEHOD8ivouPPxeu7wBmJjOoN4h_18bKqgVddHb4lcsA2TUhEkz4vjY5EG5MhK3SD5Q/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2005.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Finishing off</h3><p>Once you've sewn your line of scallops, it's time to trim off the excess fabric. With a sharp pair of scissors, slowly trim around your scallops being careful not to cut through any of the stitches. If you think your fabric may be prone to fraying, you could apply Fray Check to the very edge for extra stabilisation.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A close up of the scallop edge stitch on a finished Marnie blouse with shoulder ruffles." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLKB1wFptSDK6Uj9Q5xBMAoTp9GHTx9CS-79g3MNVErY0Ku1BSZSVNTX8l_9_nnrrClZdilKd6vAzBXgsQfrjvC0x9KI4NXEfy2l3hlnVPWZmrZQHFcd-HHt0xud24AeL8AGFHhKW9QaKZVLWzX1LYHppIcJqZPFvJmqqZaqFEWg-QaQm953M6IytOA/s16000/How%20to%20Sew%20a%20Scallop%20Edge%20Stitch%2006.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew a Scallop Stitch" /></div><p>It's really that simple! Now you can add this adorable scallop stitch to your me-mades. </p><p><i>If you liked this post, check out <a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2016/10/how-to-sew-piping-to-collar-or-corner.html" target="_blank">Sew Piping to a Collar</a> & <a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2017/02/colour-blocking-tips.html" target="_blank">Colour Blocking Tips</a>!</i></p>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-6237652307067901022023-04-19T12:00:00.104+01:002023-04-19T12:00:00.477+01:00Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfIuN1-VV17355e7xNs1Sik7O7QaFI3MKLjnP7EoyYzoUNzX1hGcovfMSS2CC9sE1_8V9OKuM477Byeo2GG1I1p5o2pGTlCLIXJxQsWHUGyUZFM6zkZLLu7R4lrh_GzlwOiHLpRZMDFdfRM4tcm_EJzW9oYz-zPsjbdiFi01kawo2DJdE7LO3Ig/s16000/Ten%20tips%20for%20sewing%20with%20fine%20cotton%20fabrics.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" /></div><p>Cotton is a popular fabric choice among sewists and crafters, and for good reason! With its breathability and wide availability in a huge range of prints and styles, it's no surprise that cotton has had a bit of a renaissance in recent years. </p><p>In particular, finer cottons like lawn, voile, Swiss dot and seersucker have become increasingly popular. They are relatively easy to cut, sew and press, yet lightweight, so provide a lovely balance of structure and drape. </p><p>Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to work with, but still has its quirks. But with the following tips, you'll be well on your way to sewing some gorgeous cotton clothes…</p><p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bUrnnVRqtho" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons Marnie blouse sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNqxrL1ox-NIs1Qvbcua6qFO46pUIlgQmQQrEPzR9Bc5ZCzdjAJicmK7C1EDHCU8obQTDDPM1dnHVF_aYxDQ2QNHFKZOwK-rgo7kz9Lb_ScYZ1Voua5vXNGOwd0JSOvPZ5i4DSEBUxgBseWwqUS7xJGu6Ehna-7O6uRafMjyHoBrbDML50HsXUw/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Marnie%20sewing%20pattern%2001.png" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A flat lay featuring the Marnie sewing pattern booklet along with a foral and a plain pink cotton lawn fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnPQe-NYXZ3MCIO1uBw-IEAZ3YTPPqxzzG28PD5ROyvf-OeMsdQsAzMXI4UbNPdmPcJzKznG2A10JblX8gchOwSHegKUj5VSdtDk1M86_M2jglAmdfdWbLTFIa9OV2-MGVMDdZXJigac7RA7MoU0ahOVvEbh_EN1APpx9EZn_fdVhwZVfuXUF9Q/s16000/Ten%20tips%20for%20sewing%20with%20fine%20cotton%20fabrics%2001.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Tips for sewing with fine cotton fabric</h3><p>1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pick the right project, bearing in mind that cottons can hold their shape but don’t have too much structure. These fabrics are a great choice for sewing patterns such as the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse</a> with its tucks and ruffles, the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">Mabel dress and blouse</a> with its shirring and puffed sleeves, the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/lyra" target="_blank">Lyra shirt dress</a> to create a neat collar and pretty tiers, and our beginner-friendly <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/jaimie" target="_blank">Jaimie pyjama bottoms</a> for breathable nightwear. </p><p>2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Use a brand new 70/10 needle in your sewing machine. This will help avoid holes, snags, and puckers which fine cotton can be prone to.</p><p>3. Use fine pins to avoid leaving holes in the fabric (we love <a href="https://merchantandmills.com/uk/entomology-pins" target="_blank">Merchant and Mills’ entomology pins</a>). If you don’t have fine pins to hand, as much as you can, try to pin within the seam allowance so any holes end up hidden on the inside of the garment.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Two rows of gather stitches sewn within the seam allowance" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2YXQUaao9oCMdRZZPoBsO_UI34WK2lxXNPNfo8TBJOWkdD3THz-lYi31v6hZgQFp9pvFlTuPnBAgy7kVwbqXEy9dPMMV78E6fejC6Ozx9OI1P7Pd_9XFedk_6HIyHjdqGc2V9nFn1rZWnPdwCo0WeLlp1FQvj2ZEK-SIdZGNi7EfuSMaDyV0Xw/s16000/Ten%20tips%20for%20sewing%20with%20fine%20cotton%20fabrics%2005.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>For the same reason, sew any temporary stitches such as gather stitches or staystitching within the seam allowance, so they don’t leave holes later.</div><p>5.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>One of the great things about cottons is how well they press. Use this to your advantage – for example, if you need to mark a notch or a particular point on the fabric, try simply finger pressing. Yep, just fold and press together with your fingers to leave a light mark that you can iron out later.</p><p>6.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>If your fabric is particularly fine, try shortening the stitch length to around 2.2mm.</p><p>7.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>If your machine has a knob for adjusting the presser foot pressure, turn it up to the highest setting to grip those fine layers together as you sew.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A hand holding the sewing machine threads whilst beginning to stitch" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQPoMX0VYOC9t0wMO7OweTAYL9f27vWL77qhCFk6uH4uokCSP0wuLNGn9yycqMsk9d_5cS8vwslCwBZ8tYLqr9J7AlUkXdDgNtD5x-bCsyPhtXEzDagqnhLZsNvHiZz5Jm1d1fRaP_CY1aTNMr7mt7B7yYhodH86TaDnGXnVZgsRLY_ph6cbk1hA/s16000/Ten%20tips%20for%20sewing%20with%20fine%20cotton%20fabrics%2003.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" /></div><p>8.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>To avoid the fabric getting pushed under the needle plate at the start of a seam, hold onto the loose threads at the start of the seam, and gently pull them away from you for the first few stitches. </p><p>9.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>If the material you’re working with is on the transparent side, you might want to finish the seam allowances with French seams to create a neater finish. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUjH6Hi0SRQ" target="_blank">Watch our video on how to sew narrow French seams</a>.</p><p>10. Some finer cottons have a tendency to fray a fair bit, so keep a pair of small, sharp snips close to hand to trim off loose fibres as you go.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A mixture of fine cotton fabrics and the Tilly and the Buttons Jaimie pyjamas sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPId8CEDiHX38kFINInyG-y7dcIYZgy5YFE6uZvA_Q6zdvIakwEgPL-J6eTedP5_4i7I5QrlQdt5gV_1Z2k74FIgUEs6tQgfa3ffv07I82-T26bCA50NP_XqXPpMCz_dIn7ioEh-ohNdp41rkNNoDdWG0WW871NHVzIMM5kAmeZaePNcWHlej6Bg/s16000/Ten%20tips%20for%20sewing%20with%20fine%20cotton%20fabrics%2004.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Ten Tips for Sewing with Fine Cotton Fabric" /></div><div><br /></div><div>We hope these good-to-know sewing tips come in handy next time your sewing with fine cotton fabrics!</div><div><br /></div><div><i>If you liked this post check out <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2023/02/how-to-sew-with-twin-needle.html" target="_blank">How to Sew with a Twin Needle</a> & <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2020/07/tips-for-sewing-with-double-gauze.html" target="_blank">Tips for Sewing with Double Gauze!</a></i></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-13466969079830135142023-04-05T12:00:00.001+01:002023-04-05T12:00:00.209+01:00How to Sew Shirring<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="How to Sew Shirring" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoOjoPrfAft0pq6g6EfUGijlutumIFjcbWrpNQsWFxjCsQRAKr_cNtdngBZs-UXy_06259nxxMmKkfL_WFh04yjk5b4t9zFbq7tUSO1SkFcd--OiGezt0IWT-3FsjfUeAOzIfZHXn5Y2EPjevt9u4GXH_OALY_neA7dhs-bwh2y58PixbBIRugQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%20header.jpg" title="How to Sew Shirring" /></div><p>Fancy trying your hand at shirring? This lovely sewing technique creates a pretty gathered texture on garments, with the bonus of an adjustable elasticated fit. </p><p>Shirred styles are all the rage on the high street at the moment, and creating this effect is not only fun and fulfilling, but it’s easier than you may think. You just need to know a few simple tips and tricks – I’ve outlined the method in this post, accompanied by a free video tutorial, all brought to you thanks to the support of <a href="https://www.janome.co.uk/" target="_blank">Janome UK</a>. </p><p><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOoJsaDOgJ9Tqm9UEM8H7TgaTMH1kS16DuVTKqC0wvjHBoCWGp7bQP_zNEqMYhYNHif8DwAFdCeMeO4c1-dSNZhldjoVShlrMqsqhYP25wk5FZOw3zOCfTJ05JxbcokYuQKlZLnwjuf1rNZsb5j57Ui1_U1safkYrkhPnFY40LZaTgF9eA8KKmA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2023.jpg" /><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ5CnfkeWrJbALMcn41gvv0wkCFMkuAkXvkL1P_W-O3LXlQf3_I98olTQwI8rlyzE1iLu6HKR-OuhpN1JCSQTeOPRHmVe0K5V0cEEZlkkiWIK-sBZiWEXCrhlfiWKEpYE8X0-Gxvax_SGKmw1B3Iouo9SM7Oc-zmA2knn1ec4g0MP0DMghDZleQw/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2020.jpg" /></p><p>I’m demonstrating on our <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel">Mabel blouse and dress sewing pattern</a>, which has a shirred waistline and sleeve cuffs. You can use the same technique for sewing shirring on other patterns too.</p><div><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xPTog2vwknE" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What is shirring?</h3><div><br /></div><div>Shirring is a technique where you sew rows of stitching using elasticated thread (shirring elastic) in the bobbin. The shirring elastic, which ends up on the underside of the project, gathers the fabric up to make it smaller – usually around half its original width – creating a pretty surface texture and an adjustable, stretchy fit.</div><div><br /></div><div>Shirring can be added to various places of a garment to create shaping as well as decorative detail. It’s most commonly used on the bust, waist or sleeve cuffs.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div></div><div><br /></div><div><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1s95tYzQSQfkjlZms-0zt00XHjD2iW97JJ-7Od0590SrAWj6gqjA5j8COnuE9icOxXkV_sKbD0UvYgnM4ClrP8EaRi3P9EAA2MGxFSsZk2zl5oReTIwuHfE0YF1b6Nbn3WeevXzFW2TA70CKdrALaQLE47DX3b9-KGjMOr_-N9emJJH0Ujzvy4Q/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%207.jpg" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimm_rkXZCTW9gp2tC8MZkCp-zXlsHXvlYQhWuVpgP0WTqMJJKdy4VeRWn2zXlohN5mebwfv_lENS5yoVSWOS3GfHtn2r_txuqYh_Oa_hySYtSpkmSsyN60ee3fwbxO_14UlDOLKjZnARAhtzlAIKgo-HUdaUH-4z_3fgRrP_V-HRsvdWzyheej0A/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%202.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What do I need for shirring?</h3><div><br /></div><div>The only extra thing you really need, aside from your regular sewing kit, is shirring elastic to go in the bobbin case. One or two spools should be enough for a small amount of shirring, such as on the Mabel sewing pattern, but you will probably need a few more if you’re shirring a whole bodice, for example. You’ll be using regular all purpose polyester thread for your spool/needle.</div><div><br /></div><div>Consider what colour shirring elastic you want to use. It will end up on the inside of the garment, so shouldn’t show in most cases, but if your fabric is light in colour or see-through, it may be slightly visible. It’s most commonly available in black and white, but you can find it in other colours too. </div><div><br /></div><div>The regular thread will show on the outside side of your finished garment, so go for a colour that matches your fabric or a contrast colour if you want to make a feature of it.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj82ogdz9Hy4rNLXLlMBqOYb8LKSZauXt62k8ldvR6toOaCHaLPEqlqcU87vPFr5PJ1mVpkFo0GgWMBOSugTirrD7yD4w6Vo_kYqwilXKzCk5D9CunICtUCkjHHvmHH-SJA4dUHky7PTrnjVcweAa0o_nL_x5F4Wgq0mGDtUNLjzPYZmDYlnn38ig/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2021.jpg" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDTh9Xqw5gscx_MnrzRjkVPXwo7sIu1LM37a3-NRmA1m5qMq0D_aXbhu2hcRk5Jb6WM_rqS1vkBqfP8ajB_k8PH07VyOPvDjTGp-fVmTPsDBcWi8m-4hKsoVIHkREyRRh5mbazbVw4XmHmeMAjLJ305rqmlOUALnrAAXwpkiZzjHaGxlnKSi6i8Q/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2024.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Which fabrics can I shirr?</h3><div><br /></div><div>Lightweight fabrics that gather easily work best – try soft cotton lawn, voile, poplin, viscose (rayon) or Tencel (lyocell). Avoid anything too thick or structured, as the narrow elastic could struggle to gather it up effectively enough. You may find it harder to keep the rows even if your fabric is slippery.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnLEPJkYG-3ODI6du9DoceNpJ-wblpongZBxXWwQJ0X5E8PJZKJ1KqV1kJJuLKDWWPdNESb8tgBFLDcoA7ePupPAGJ4jzTNoqvI2o0zcPWCTc5DWRN73FAfsW1RIpUP9EfAzcfdAmhs-mi6yZbv4Pi4NQ2_wfdTpfowdAgeG3AS3-Gr6bbYTmIYQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2014.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What do I use as a guideline?</h3><div><br /></div><div>On the Mabel sewing pattern, you can use the top edge of the skirt or the hem of the sleeve as a guideline for your first row of shirring – we tell you in the instructions how far to sew from this edge, depending on which piece you’re shirring. You can then use the edge of your presser foot as a guide to how far away from this edge and subsequent rows to keep your stitching.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you prefer, you can draw guidelines onto your fabric first in chalk pencil, washable pen, or something like a Frixion pen which should come out when you iron it. Please do test your marker out on a scrap of your garment fabric first though to check it does come out!</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxdrrZG50Cet5uo0lE8a1ZyzywyczlJUR_NrOgClhEpgi_03K29RYZhHa0hObXA4n-ux7OrewzX7a-DhlFODoKchaobqQm8TtLbsTj5U-QljEDZkuiX-0zo4gqM42un_IDutBw-i1uwcStGFiQmOc_EK41umEQswN36b0psmyupGm_0FMpBnQy_A/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%201.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Or try a special foot such as a <a href="https://j-shop.co.uk/collections/feet-attachments-category-b/products/border-guide-foot" target="_blank">border guide foot</a>, which has extra guides to help you keep your rows of shirring even.</div><div><br /></div><div>TIP: Gingham or horizontal stripey fabric creates natural guidelines that make it easier to sew neat rows of shirring!</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwslm0Gfh3JQ0YcvNxvjBvgXugh4zur8E3cxsm4EEDFEIrgn8PosqloNeEQs-cSblBJXsULFqDKGcuRGOoxjVwPOIUiWrqC-7hiznPycfN0Nj9NxpaxaNsfOSu2Psr--rse6DcFfSr_v5DrJq2NwwMStZw7AxXW968Q38obqcg3ijBD05LEYdgNg/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%203.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">How do you go about shirring?</h3><div><br /></div><div>First, grab a scrap of the fabric you plan to use for your garment. It’s important to practise shirring on a test swatch before you tackle your real project, even if you’ve sewn shirring before, as the fabric you use, the settings on your sewing machine, and the tension you use when winding the shirring elastic onto the bobbin will all have an impact on the finished result. </div><div><br /></div><div>Wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin by hand – wind it on with enough tension that it’s not falling off the bobbin, but don’t pull too tight or stretch the elastic. (One person’s idea of tension vs. not stretching may be different to another person’s, and the tension in your machine will also affect the finished result, which is part of the reason it’s important to do a test run!) </div><div><br /></div><div>Make sure you don’t overfill the bobbin. If there’s a long tail of elastic coming up through the hole in the top of the bobbin, trim this down so it doesn’t get picked up by the needle.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeclcS4wuX4foZFenrN6IopWgdXhIkMh6nnobyVsgpBZdBEMla5Ht9kMiNfHnGrQ8brQ5CeDrmrvhmFG6dsr_KF6IGn7d4Rd_TYDllJfA2uvjo4JNa_gvXWRrutkHGDQsl9SaOwYThTzC9XkzvDW3YxBwd9rKObRi_SMKPXqwnfJSv2xZ34BZSiw/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2015%20copy.jpg" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div><div>Thread the needle/spool of your sewing machine using regular all purpose polyester thread.</div><div><br /></div><div>Load the shirring elastic into the bobbin case as normal. If your sewing machine has a needle up/down button, it’s a good idea to avoid using this to pick up the shirring elastic in case it stretches it out – instead, turn the handwheel towards you while holding the end of the needle thread. Pull out a tail of both spool elastic and bobbin thread towards the back of your machine – this will help keep the shirring elastic loaded on the bobbin case hook so it won’t unthread while you’re sewing.</div><div><br /></div><div>Set the machine to a long straight stitch – try 4 or 5. The length is something you can adjust during your testing if you need to, as different fabrics will work better with different stitch lengths – the longer the stitch, the more it will shirr, or gather up the fabric between the stitches. </div><div><br /></div><div>Place your fabric right side up on your machine, so the elastic will end up on the inside of the garment. You’ll be sewing your first row of shirring along your top guideline if you drew one, or at an even distance from the top edge of the fabric. Assuming the seam allowance of the pattern you’re sewing is 15mm (5/8in), start sewing 5mm (1/4in) from the raw edge (side seam or sleeve underarm seam) so the ends of the shirring (and first couple of back tack stitches) end up hidden within the seam allowance.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7frP5yhEE-qmR-GbkYJCFGvpnk8c3wqrVTvT4yuuyi4oViYnIrQi15LiEKsHdilMJIsBhDuNNNQhVy5ANX03u_Mts1XxNu0BS4h_wxXc4efKeRv-e-GCplACnZN2t8hhOtPWAuu4y5ZtiY_WYA3AAqD6PpBMXRFu2mFqPhHZSvVuuv7p7PWJFg/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2016.jpg" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNp0_bwpvNdQFC7UgQYgt9gU_6pXJPejL9qdklzcXixG4r5-UnDHdztG_d40ok85uB6Ebi6CIQ-wO2EURzpt1U-tMPCW1D7xlv-fjc7abNUvKAI4XvT_Z7N5USc_7g-gGYqNhGBfUw2ERgbiALtYwoLV00hz64GWHUGYFGL2wktqI9hdyiZaDutA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2017.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Sew two stitches, then back tack (reverse stitch) two stitches to secure the elastic in place so it doesn’t come undone – this is very important! If your machine or fabric doesn’t respond well to back-tacking shirring elastic, you can shorten your stitch length to 1.5-2 at the beginning and end of each row of stitching to help secure your threads instead.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sew the first row of shirring, taking your time to keep the line straight, either using the guideline or the edge of the fabric as a guide. You should see the fabric start to gather up behind the presser foot. As you sew more rows, the fabric will gather up more, so be patient!</div><div><br /></div><div>When you reach the end of the row, back tack two stitches (don’t forget this step!), then sew forward again off the end of the fabric. If your sewing machine has an automatic thread cutter, avoid using this as it can over-stretch the elastic. Instead, free the project the old-school way by raising the needle and presser foot, gently pulling the project through - pulling from the bobbin, not pulling the elastic you've just sewn tighter - and cutting the threads. I like to leave a short length of shirring elastic at each end until I’ve sewn across the seam when joining the pieces later, to ensure the elastic doesn’t come out.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHiz7ZMQMfCk-Gvqp6W7Sx6VB-sPflJ8AbqA9OCXjTNHeM68QYDIGqtRLn4bVkXuOgkRMM9Deq_CSoO-z9umoc5Q_qNrUVzOQU06FvJLmfGUetRx0w7ehl66IV2fdsG2U6xUeUTCcRHh1RsZqpvo6-h5dKrZKOQz8Hf-xQPZzT6ewYYRtLHZQeWQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2018.jpg" /></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWYgbVkpwUFy9JpzwLkMlH84oKhkXskWBK5OUCxKRpn7J8QOBxw4Q3-QMv5gptT6dWaaE3UDfM0yyimvLWEwDoswWuotoqBrQ5KmyoiC_qWE4Z7mX9gF0occNMnZQTl5H9C_ga0sfcbStNvwyHJiqjzyMSqvk0dSGG6pWC56efogUCpdAYGSXyA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2019.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>To sew the next row of shirring, check you have a few cm (a couple of inches) of both thread and elastic coming out towards the back of the machine again. Using the edge of the presser foot as a guide, sew the second row of shirring – on the Mabel pattern, the rows should be 10mm (just under 3/8in) apart (on my machine, the edge of the presser foot is 8mm from the needle, so I line it up 2mm away from the first row). You will need to stretch the shirred fabric out flat as you sew, holding it from both the front and back. </div><div><br /></div><div>Again, remember to back tack at the start and end, and avoid using the needle up/down button and the automatic thread cutter if your machine has them.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EL8LRLkwFQRIDqcDV80pH2VkI3qJM1XjoCYTVqUgLK_ivLkUcQmbIwtLlE2hS6cT0yUTG8noClW7ANUtGTIaf6-5OTA87IjjMv3XNpEF25voo1-j0OvZ4CJqMPu4-KBcZ4CV3HJsaE1U7nheb7dQyN7l_sL7VZl_MB5Pfi4pMMVJB0LB_xMpCQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%208.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>If you’re sewing a test swatch, five rows of shirring is a good number. Or, if you’ve moved onto your real garment, sew the number of rows specified in the pattern instructions. Take your time, and check the fabric is gathering up as you go – if it’s not, see ‘troubleshooting’ below. If you haven't marked your shirring guidelines on the fabric, to keep the rows even keep your eye on both the edge of the presser foot and seam allowance guide for as long as the fabric isn't covering it.</div><div><br /></div><div>Shirring uses up a lot of elastic, so you’ll probably need to reload the bobbin at some point. If your bobbin runs out of elastic mid-row, you can unpick a few of the top stitches, leaving a short tail of shirring elastic on the underside, reload the bobbin and start stitching on top of the last few stitches to lock them in place. Then you can tie the tails of elastic together by hand on the underside to make them extra secure. Don’t worry if it looks a little messy – it won’t be noticeable once the fabric is all ruched up.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTMNyU3ah8TLwxxU_4EqEYAobpflaQaoVuz4i6-HOFdMPCn6_0wSuolvadqZxrvYYJEH46zN-LDj4bcWouPntM3QVDck6XEI3-kirOWj6FaaroZgOoWDygipjGauGAA1V9BduhF3ZaUNCagYv6PrRQhLWPXoV63T7HXQcaG-eFxR6OM8YB2F37w/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2014.jpg" /></div><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2mnblrMn1nazP093HWlDneA4jzepRByYQq09EYScxFDmS1JjGbxgxvRHsDuYJ5mj9oVTJv92f-P-t3KJSplV2ykRuOz999WMzAKe3J4p62WRCzuFwwD-8dkVCLIuy5LyZgx4cnJFxZEWZxag_lEJ0gQd5WX7dsTvpbiZ9ZaHZtBeDtdE8mapU4w/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2011.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Gently redistribute the gathers if you need to so they’re even, then hover a steamy iron over them to help settle the folds.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ye76zB16DaRteczjf5OMjzZlG598Euk3hBCZZBvis_bmEHwTJW-RPfUzGXmsOu9hN9uBqGe0QCpjxg8_gqQ6l5rMsQN6CedlVhWJcucaXApVZIrxsHnwwangQRbf8PX0-1-e4-1r3_cMSSCBfY1D0DsnCm-xuPIilwz53m1ZwYBkCPH3-om2VQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2012.jpg" /></div><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5fdy_XQ0BScsYarst5yW0QwXpM-r2hLYKdvQnGwjhpnCCMDmN6WIu8XfW2AGYc08VZi6vsuRg7_NKe3bvGiz63lTmD02WuGFvnUgMjB85LnMo2ZkmcBTDISasIBh2F0D7WpVjcSluV0GNtsR45_eyeahxTSEw-GIgT3JObTPcqtGPTE2j6laFw/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2013.jpg" /><br /><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">How do I know if my fabric is shirring enough?</h3><div><br /></div><div>Once you’ve sewn your test swatch, measure the shirred part of the fabric. Now stretch it out as far as it will go and measure it again. You’re aiming for the fabric when stretched (this second measurement) to be around 1.8-2 x the width of the shirred fabric when not stretched (the first measurement).</div><div><br /></div><div>If it’s much more or less than this, you can sew another test swatch, trying a longer stitch length (4.5-5) for more gathering or shorter stitch length (3.5-4) for less gathering. You can also try winding the elastic onto the bobbin with slightly more or less tension, or adjusting the thread tension on your sewing machine slightly. If you find it's gathering the fabric up way more than expected, make sure you're not tightening the elastic when you pull the project out at the end of each row - pull the elastic from the bobbin, not from your project.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1PYgM7F8-JJrpZWny3HluVb3fvRxf0K7VWm_SwF9-o-HL-BLwjgPTC-kBwWmRr8fF9zECsphylHWTczN0tUcPhg-vc2eWLDKJP2-VLdMiDd1xUKI7W_-GZej0nOE4yB-3L44u46jL-eNkM7YtEh-8_nPHkPWbRwRcqO5oO9Uz9CxFYgFrO7uyg/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2025.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Troubleshooting shirring problems</h3><div><br /></div><div><b><i>The fabric isn’t gathering up</i></b></div><div>If your fabric isn’t gathering up, check you have set the machine to a long stitch length (4 to 5). Also check the bobbin is loaded correctly, with the shirring elastic caught on the bobbin case hook. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><i>The elastic is coming loose from the fabric</i></b></div><div>If the elastic comes out, make sure you’re back tacking securely and avoid using the automatic thread cutter.</div><div><br /></div><div><b><i>The machine is stuck or making funny noises</i></b></div><div>A certain amount of squeaking from the bobbin case can be expected when shirring as it works against the elastic. Your machine shouldn't get stuck or make a loud clunking sound though!</div><div><br /></div><div>If it does, check the bobbin is loaded correctly, with the shirring elastic caught on the bobbin case hook. </div><div><br /></div><div>If your shirring elastic is on the thicker side, you may need slightly looser tension in the bobbin case. Janome experts advise against loosening the bobbin case tension yourself, particularly if it’s the only one you have – instead, you can get a dedicated <a href="https://j-shop.co.uk/collections/bobbins-bobbin-cases/products/special-bobbin-holder-for-free-motion-quilting" target="_blank">bobbin case pre-set to a lower tension </a>(this one linked is for Janome DKS100 and similar top-loading machines with an automatic thread cutter). Alternatively, you could buy a spare standard bobbin case to adjust the tension yourself, and mark it with a blob of nail polish so you know which one it is – that way you keep the original factory settings on your main bobbin case.</div><div><br /></div><div><b><i>The fabric is gathering up, but not by the right amount</i></b></div><div>Try sewing with a longer stitch length (4.5-5) for more gathering or a shorter stitch length (3.5-4) for less gathering. </div><div><br /></div><div>You can also try winding the elastic onto the bobbin with slightly more or less tension, or adjusting the thread tension on your sewing machine slightly.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you find it's gathering the fabric up way more than expected, make sure you're not tightening the elastic when you pull the project out at the end of each row - pull the elastic from the bobbin, not from your project.</div><div><br /></div><div><i>And that's it!</i></div><div><br /></div><div>I hope this post has inspired you to give shirring a try. It’s such a fun technique to try, and really satisfying once you get the hang of it! </div><div><br /></div><div>If you try shirring the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel">Mabel blouse or dress</a>, do tag us on social media <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tillybuttons/" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/janomeuk/" target="_blank">@JanomeUK</a> using the hashtag #SewingMabel so we can see.</div><div><br /></div><div>This tutorial has been brought to you thanks to our friends at <a href="https://www.janome.co.uk/" target="_blank">Janome UK</a>, who have been supporting creativity for over 100 years. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><img border="0" height="58" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjGcDkgYLRWD5rxIXjXa81qb82rEwQDTccl5H5Kcy3wy6EdulGzInvCppir_jBR8wkVyvz73ZOJtSAnRhtarKTClmHMc2qP0oKNVJE5-F6Q1N8FggJ6J8HWSyq0Z3TgpMOp1f_BFgAQvCe08k39oEDhivrdY1kCuoR6HwF7d7s2vxhPu2-OKRVQ/w200-h58/Janome%20logo.jpg" width="200" /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>****</div><div><br /></div><div>Author: Tilly Walnes</div></div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-73420523619116706552023-04-03T12:00:00.008+01:002023-04-21T23:00:07.177+01:00Fitting the Mabel Blouse and Dress<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfQc2V2a-_jZTGdkplfZD00RfcLuDyOX1wNjm0gMvlQPSp_ChVFbyvsCXVO6gNvSkxvv5E0YEpqFNIr1SPGMZ74bmVkDV22lKyGbCIwO0UtAZG-V8YXof2raCXudLWaIRLg6lJVhWZZcUh5A7hSUfsPMxUBsp944LwVrzzaYFCo_T-n49Zcmmoaom/s1170/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%20Header.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fitting the Mabel Blouse and Dress" border="0" data-original-height="1170" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfQc2V2a-_jZTGdkplfZD00RfcLuDyOX1wNjm0gMvlQPSp_ChVFbyvsCXVO6gNvSkxvv5E0YEpqFNIr1SPGMZ74bmVkDV22lKyGbCIwO0UtAZG-V8YXof2raCXudLWaIRLg6lJVhWZZcUh5A7hSUfsPMxUBsp944LwVrzzaYFCo_T-n49Zcmmoaom/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%20Header.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Crushing on the </span><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">Mabel dress and blouse pattern</a><span style="text-align: left;"> but not sure how to get a great fit? In this blog post we're going to talk you through the most common fitting adjustments you might (or might not!) want to make. </span></div><p></p><p>Mabel is a dream sewing pattern. Not only does it look sensational (OK, we might be a little biased), it's relatively easy to fit too. The blousey bodice, elasticated shirred waist, and wide skirt offer comfort and ease in the bust, waist and hip areas, so don't require close fitting. The areas that might need tweaking, depending on your body, are the elastic length in the shoulders and neckline, and we'll explain how you can do this below. </p><p>In this post we're going to cover:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Making a toile</li><li>Choosing your size</li><li>Do I need a full bust adjustment (FBA)?</li><li>Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces</li><li>How to combine sizes</li><li>How to adjust the neckline and shoulders</li><li>How to adjust the sleeve shirring</li><li>Checking the hem balance</li></ul><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_7sjvZa2tR1SAusjQ9DPGqKb4sNTN7PIWOyX8qP-1ttpksrennqKOhuETAl0_AsBdnkv6ZjwcRAHoXowPRl5kOrhy-80-mbTita4z6rTdvzVgoQ449wuoZPxe8mUzAva2HBQ1NRDLSogUtDQgVIt8qESIPPX85HMbDAaCVxlqVgE1LRpYip8vJca/s975/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%201.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size brunette woman wearing navy floral dress with shirring on waist and sleeves" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_7sjvZa2tR1SAusjQ9DPGqKb4sNTN7PIWOyX8qP-1ttpksrennqKOhuETAl0_AsBdnkv6ZjwcRAHoXowPRl5kOrhy-80-mbTita4z6rTdvzVgoQ449wuoZPxe8mUzAva2HBQ1NRDLSogUtDQgVIt8qESIPPX85HMbDAaCVxlqVgE1LRpYip8vJca/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%201.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br />Making a toile</b></div><div><br /></div><div>A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock up of your garment in fabric you don't mind using for testing purposes - pick something similar weight and drape to the fabric you have in mind for your final project. Making a toile is a great opportunity to test the fit of a sewing pattern, or practise a technique on sacrificial fabric before you cut into the nice fabric you have lovingly chosen and purchased for your project.</div><div><br /></div><div>For Mabel, we recommend you make a toile to check the lengths of the elastic around the shoulders and neckline. Or how about making a "wearable toile" - this is a practice garment in fabric that you don't mind ditching if the fit isn't quite right, but you like enough to wear just in case it fits you well first time. You'll want to check the fit of the bodice, sleeves and peplum, so the top version is perfect for a wearable toile. </div><div><br /></div><div>Tilly has also written a fab <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/11/when-why-how-to-make-toile-or-muslin.html" target="_blank">blog post about toile making</a> if you want to know more. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzRtCv5zP_uEudAv6J7IKNK5Z_tcYHHOMjSMAH2Y42vAThiACkp55dlDRLPrmQVReyrQOiHvNL13LPnJkS2-DEmvNFQtWbiTOu7tlIXukCDi0_8kIWO3m974leC5NqFAmqq-Bp3XIH07Dsdk39HyEFesByL6iaLcIG-xh7lXIenNsCXzgoqJvYu3m/s650/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%202.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Body form with bust, waist and hip areas highlighted" border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzRtCv5zP_uEudAv6J7IKNK5Z_tcYHHOMjSMAH2Y42vAThiACkp55dlDRLPrmQVReyrQOiHvNL13LPnJkS2-DEmvNFQtWbiTOu7tlIXukCDi0_8kIWO3m974leC5NqFAmqq-Bp3XIH07Dsdk39HyEFesByL6iaLcIG-xh7lXIenNsCXzgoqJvYu3m/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%202.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Choosing your size</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Mabel includes all 15 sizes in our range. Pattern sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better fit. For this reason, you may notice the proportions change in the measurements chart and the shaping is slightly different on the pattern pieces – sizes 7-15 include room for a larger bust (10cm/4in difference between high bust and full bust, as opposed to 5cm/2in difference on sizes 1-6) and a bit more room at the waist.</div><div><br /></div><div>To find your size, using a flexible tape measure, measure the circumference of your:</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Bust - take the measurement at the fullest point i.e. around your nipples </li><li>Waist - where you bend at the side </li><li>Hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is </li></ul><div>Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8lfOa6ph9uXjew9pkqLE4UKKEXm56Rxx4PsDdPseTCLnFhUcupezBed_V9TAfWj3QtoebCaGZK7xr-44MH-jZhJU58ypayTeeophS32xHG38TQWN0UbwQoIzq4AuxdV5LXcbt8xMDig6La77f1k4oI0vmaUbFAydiOvcMTmTscGnbi31krhPeXBCG/s833/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%203.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mabel blouse and dress body measurements and finished garment measurements chart" border="0" data-original-height="833" data-original-width="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8lfOa6ph9uXjew9pkqLE4UKKEXm56Rxx4PsDdPseTCLnFhUcupezBed_V9TAfWj3QtoebCaGZK7xr-44MH-jZhJU58ypayTeeophS32xHG38TQWN0UbwQoIzq4AuxdV5LXcbt8xMDig6La77f1k4oI0vmaUbFAydiOvcMTmTscGnbi31krhPeXBCG/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%203.png" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Circle your measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But it's totally normal for your measurements to fall into different sizes too - you can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes (we'll come onto that later!).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div>The blousiness of the bodice, floatiness of the skirt, and shirring in the waistline make this pattern very easy fitting. There's around 18cm (7in) ease in the bust so it's unlikely you'll find the fit too tight across the bust if you pick your size based on your full bust measurement. If you do often feel like you need more room in the bust, then cast your eyes over the section below...</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Do I need a full bust adjustment (FBA)?</b></div><div><div><br /></div><div>As mentioned above, the blousiness of the Mabel bodice has around 18cm (7in) ease around the bust. If you feel as though this isn't enough for your unique shape, the good news is in most cases you can avoid doing a full bust adjustment (FBA) by picking a larger size, and letting the elastic on the neckline, shoulders and waist do the job of cinching the blouse or dress to your body. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you have a larger bust you might also want to lengthen the front and back bodices slightly to prevent the blouse from riding up at the waist. We cover how to do this in the "lengthening or shortening the bodice, sleeve or skirt/peplum" section below.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you do go up a size and feel like you need to cinch the top of the blouse or dress in around the neckline and shoulders, you can unpick the elastic channels and make the elastic a bit shorter, and re-sew the ends. Check out the "How to adjust the neckline and shoulders" section below. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Lengthening or shortening the bodice, sleeve or skirt/peplum</b></div></div><div><br /></div>Our patterns are drafted for a height of around 5"5 (165cm). If you're particularly taller or shorter than this, or know you have a long or short torso, arms or legs, or you want to change the length of the blouse or dress to suit your own personal style, it's super easy to adjust the pattern pieces.<div><br /></div>We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/lengthening-or-shortening-pattern-pieces.html" target="_blank">blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces</a>. It talks you through the process, step by step, so go check it out. <div><br /></div><div>We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Mabel pattern pieces:</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC7PWQajaPRXpSySCL_1Qv3IpJPD3L6MKbzubkf0LGLDXMHq28nw4mx68Y1Jxo1T5vRXBlJcrZtPpdHlfcbN8QWd3jEoLtIaq2jtNoEHQ9-Cgce9N1IQcStZT1uXZU6fTpud3OP4dhlHmaJbjgOqX65T51ObJC5hV_rzR3HpRaxmgDxgh8HCaN_kg2/s919/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%204.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Front and back bodice pattern pieces with an arrow pointing to lengthen and shorten lines" border="0" data-original-height="919" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC7PWQajaPRXpSySCL_1Qv3IpJPD3L6MKbzubkf0LGLDXMHq28nw4mx68Y1Jxo1T5vRXBlJcrZtPpdHlfcbN8QWd3jEoLtIaq2jtNoEHQ9-Cgce9N1IQcStZT1uXZU6fTpud3OP4dhlHmaJbjgOqX65T51ObJC5hV_rzR3HpRaxmgDxgh8HCaN_kg2/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%204.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div><b>1) Bodice</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>If you know you often need more or less length in your garment bodices, you can lengthen or shorten the bodice pattern pieces using the lengthen or shorten lines. You may also want to add some more length in the bodice to accommodate a larger bust. </div><div><br /></div><div>The lengthen or shorten lines are near the bottom of the front and back bodice pieces. You can use these lines to ensure your Mabel bodice is the perfect length for you in the torso.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you lengthen or shorten the front bodice, make sure you make the exact same adjustment to the back bodice so the side seams end up the same length.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMFsQw3tqc2wNZv4dq2F183Eb-XBNlExTlhdVim9Ro7FjVaGk1tx4bmxrdmJ34hu_FeakmKxWc2Rj-7b4Gs3l45uGp3rPv6_Fp6iNQNR3m9XUZ2X6RU47Rg1tbtjz6ckMr_RJwwCKvmChSpWP-B7Ykgv53BtZ4JbCSuxGyUTu2J2xolouCDyNIE4z/s679/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%205.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mabel sleeve pattern piece with an arrow pointing to the lengthen and shorten lines" border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMFsQw3tqc2wNZv4dq2F183Eb-XBNlExTlhdVim9Ro7FjVaGk1tx4bmxrdmJ34hu_FeakmKxWc2Rj-7b4Gs3l45uGp3rPv6_Fp6iNQNR3m9XUZ2X6RU47Rg1tbtjz6ckMr_RJwwCKvmChSpWP-B7Ykgv53BtZ4JbCSuxGyUTu2J2xolouCDyNIE4z/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%205.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div><b>2) Sleeve</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Mabel has a gorgeous full-length or elbow-length,voluminous raglan sleeve. The elbow-length sleeve is finished with a narrow shirred cuff with frill hem and the full-length sleeve has a deep shirred cuff and finishes just past the wrist.</div><div><br /></div><div>The Mabel sleeve is longer than a regular sleeve to achieve a romantic, billowy look. If you know your arms are a tad on the long or short side, or you'd like to change where the sleeve hem sits, you can use the lengthen or shorten lines on the sleeve pattern to alter the finished length. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmGPeBsIFLIXeZrxdbYHQRAxGihHhpO_0I8Slnkga5CB45pSNLZpniY6KtQWzKPIAKbHV2kfvedilsI1T5w5W-TISwBRHXB9LK-Z3VxZgpV5oc1ww6RkJc85R56DceXpdcLL8ZVlW68rFQAUWqyQhJaVP-smaJ0wgE8HH9nfYza7siQUsEdAJ3Dzf/s649/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%206.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mabel skirt/peplum pattern piece" border="0" data-original-height="249" data-original-width="649" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmmGPeBsIFLIXeZrxdbYHQRAxGihHhpO_0I8Slnkga5CB45pSNLZpniY6KtQWzKPIAKbHV2kfvedilsI1T5w5W-TISwBRHXB9LK-Z3VxZgpV5oc1ww6RkJc85R56DceXpdcLL8ZVlW68rFQAUWqyQhJaVP-smaJ0wgE8HH9nfYza7siQUsEdAJ3Dzf/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%206.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><b>3) Skirt Peplum</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>The Mabel pattern includes a skirt peplum pattern piece to make the top version. If you are making the dress, you will need to draw the midi skirt dimensions straight onto the fabric. The great news about this is you can draw the exact length you like according to your height and style preference. We have included waist to hem measurements for the blouse and dress in the booklet to help you decide if you want to make any changes.</div><div><br /></div><div>The peplum pattern piece for the blouse is rectangular, so you if do want to alter the skirt length it's easy peasy to do. Either chop off (or fold under) the unwanted length or draw the new pattern length directly on the fabric. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthG11VFA5u8wT4KDGYn-noryW8ofcSVpHMwQpQDvqYCLdDufnTGWeoy8_A2-CUeASWaTMZZaj2hV2Lsubjkyz9oU6vv5UKSuNpw3tEPaJzqZxxqEtgs3Bz4TrIjL5ShTxOgCvtzCWwFSjEEU2PPv_iWdM8lq2VSyfcpJvGwIW5912yyd76MCnRWJ9/s650/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%207.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Mabel front bodice pattern piece with drawn on lines to demonstrate combining sizes between size 8 and size 10, and size 2 and size 5" border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthG11VFA5u8wT4KDGYn-noryW8ofcSVpHMwQpQDvqYCLdDufnTGWeoy8_A2-CUeASWaTMZZaj2hV2Lsubjkyz9oU6vv5UKSuNpw3tEPaJzqZxxqEtgs3Bz4TrIjL5ShTxOgCvtzCWwFSjEEU2PPv_iWdM8lq2VSyfcpJvGwIW5912yyd76MCnRWJ9/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%207.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><b>How to combine pattern sizes</b></div><div><br /></div>If your bust, waist and/or hip measurements fall in different sizes on the body measurements chart, you can combine sizes in these areas to get a bespoke fit for your exact body measurements. The elasticated waist, blousey bodice and wide skirt makes the fit quite forgiving, so you'd only need to do this if your bust is three or more sizes bigger or smaller than your waist - for less of a difference, you can get away with cutting one size if you prefer.<div><br /><div><a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/combining-pattern-sizes.html" target="_blank">Check out our blog post on how to combine sizes</a> (or "grade" between sizes) for exactly how to do this. Start drawing the new size line from 15mm (5/8in) down from the bodice underarm, and finish 15mm (5/8in) above the the bottom of the side seam - this will make it easier to attach the sleeves and skirt to the bodice. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpr9Nzj4ScfOlOprJnFfAZuqdEaCkSMplTDvvP6qry2wBTM-T2UbPQow3rvyKuBAmDwjLMEJxjh2kv6uwF3eoFVcPLOqOFRHmlU20vb7HC-IjdepTwxFhnF0RM-A7GhpdHkCRunHmOntURqji-DYP0JpA1OObUBCZky8DewRutLBrnXgxToSy5hjQC/s975/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%208.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size brunette woman wearing a blue and yellow gingham Mabel blouse with shirring at waist and on sleeves" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpr9Nzj4ScfOlOprJnFfAZuqdEaCkSMplTDvvP6qry2wBTM-T2UbPQow3rvyKuBAmDwjLMEJxjh2kv6uwF3eoFVcPLOqOFRHmlU20vb7HC-IjdepTwxFhnF0RM-A7GhpdHkCRunHmOntURqji-DYP0JpA1OObUBCZky8DewRutLBrnXgxToSy5hjQC/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%208.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><b>How to adjust the neckline and shoulders</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Mabel has a square-shaped elasticated front and back neckline, and voluminous raglan sleeves elasticated around the shoulders.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>If you feel that the neckline or shoulders on your toile feel either too tight or too loose, you can lengthen or shorten the elastic to achieve a better fit. Unpick the elastic channels and either snip a bit off the end of the elastic before you re-sew, or take it out and replace with a longer length of elastic. </div><div><br /></div><div>Unlike some similar styles, we've designed the sleeves so they can be worn with a bra. With the correct fit, they should cover your bra already but, if you want a bit of added security, you can add bra stays - little loops which hold the sleeves up over your straps. We have a <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2021/03/how-to-make-thread-chain-belt-loops.html" target="_blank">blog post and video tutorial</a> which walks you through making a thread chain - all you need to do is attach a snap (or popper) on the end of the thread chain and stitch the matching pair to the inside of the top at the shoulder. Easy! </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1a6UhcYdLC4vIVEQwnHT3iwHgS5HRUvKXLuXrHtzSU4mD3OpQag6BKLC8ZFKfret2sKGs8RhT7aw9EA7k5adtcRUFjaELMw8fo6YrpmYFnpJdx9B39lGyOoMHc4XU03reBzJjf0ZZVT-7IQHtHpCp_JLqNm_7o4O6UY9i9cbDgpytccy3ZDRxA3k/s650/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%209.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Blonde woman wearing magenta dress, holding her arm out horizontally to show the long sleeve hem shirring" border="0" data-original-height="433" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1a6UhcYdLC4vIVEQwnHT3iwHgS5HRUvKXLuXrHtzSU4mD3OpQag6BKLC8ZFKfret2sKGs8RhT7aw9EA7k5adtcRUFjaELMw8fo6YrpmYFnpJdx9B39lGyOoMHc4XU03reBzJjf0ZZVT-7IQHtHpCp_JLqNm_7o4O6UY9i9cbDgpytccy3ZDRxA3k/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%209.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><b>How to adjust the sleeve shirring</b></div><div><br /></div><div>If you feel that shirring at the bottom of the elbow or full-length sleeve feels a bit on the loose side for your taste, there are a couple of different techniques you can do to take it in.</div><div><br /></div><div>The easiest one is to take it in at the side seams by sewing with a larger seam allowance. This method means you can take it in bit by bit to make sure you are happy with the finished width. </div><div><br /></div><div>Alternatively, leave long threads at one end when shirring, and pull on them, gathering the fabric as you do this, to make the sleeve narrower. Re-sew the seam when you are happy with the width. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Checking the hem balance</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Depending on your unique curves, you may find the blouse or dress hem isn't balanced, i.e. it's not hanging at the same level all the way round. To check the hem balance on your Mabel, before you get to the hemming stage, stand sideways in front of a mirror and see whether the front is longer than the back or vice versa. If this is the case, take a note of how much you want to shorten the longer side, and cut the fabric on the skirt or peplum to level it off. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lxetG1rBAGcFjo2YIjiVrhha6g9g5mCAxJg774GlCxhwi44vzfkk7IzLMTRyM94JuLGcTv7t2djznEnk_3KGMhgZXL5JHZSzzdsX9Mm-uBpcmfNxrG_RRUdtGQiaAHOBKEl584s3w0dtSV-OavYQtIOyjBQsMXbstcDXPBhH5R8dC_6vOaLAMZzQ/s975/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%2010.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Plus size brunette woman from the back, wearing a navy floral dress with shirring on waist and sleeves" border="0" data-original-height="975" data-original-width="650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lxetG1rBAGcFjo2YIjiVrhha6g9g5mCAxJg774GlCxhwi44vzfkk7IzLMTRyM94JuLGcTv7t2djznEnk_3KGMhgZXL5JHZSzzdsX9Mm-uBpcmfNxrG_RRUdtGQiaAHOBKEl584s3w0dtSV-OavYQtIOyjBQsMXbstcDXPBhH5R8dC_6vOaLAMZzQ/s16000/Fitting%20Mabel%20-%20Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20-%2010.jpg" title="Fitting the Shirred Mabel Blouse and Dress Sewing Pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I hope this post has been helpful, and you now feel ready to sew your Mabel top or dress.</div><div><br /></div><div>Don't forget sewing is meant to be fun, so don't worry too much about what fitting adjustments you may need to make. Crack out your sewing machine, pop the kettle on and get sewing!</div><div><br /></div>We love seeing your finished makes and progress shots. Tag us on Insta @TillyButtons using the hashtag #SewingMabel<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTTp1IoVQGy_Hcd2N3PRCaYBJR7eFSAyiqjnKIoEcH0OKCbbndueOPUIb9cMjwu1E_IfWMfX3Zoo9cR76yYLDNzBiOVB3uAEX6Y4RR9ysCGCq60BzKEcbRXn4baxvXX8WmDkAChTR7Yqhw7eAh556idnhGJSro-4hThmEwKt5_G7aMeWl6mz8HVQ/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>*****</div><div>Author: Nikki Hoar</div><div><div>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sarahbritner/" target="_blank">Sarah Britner</a> & <a href="https://www.instagram.com/whatsophiesmaking/" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a></div><div>Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker </a></div><div>MUAH: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thebridalstylists/" target="_blank">The Bridal Stylists</a></div><div>Samples: Sewn by Vanessa Allen</div><div><br /></div><div>Sarah's sample:</div><div>1. <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1015236/john-kaldor-rapture-viscose-crepe-fabric&variant=1014841" target="_blank">John Kaldor viscose crepe</a> – Minerva (gifted)</div><div><br /></div><div>Sophie's samples:</div><div>1. <a href="https://pigeonwishes.com/product/yarn-dyed-3-color-cotton-gingham-bubble-fabric-yellow-and-grey-blue/" target="_blank">Pigeon Wishes yarn dyed gingham</a> – Pigeon Wishes (gifted)</div></div></div><div>2. <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/joni-ecovero-crepe-navy/" target="_blank">Joni Ecovero Crepe</a> – Fabric Godmother (gifted)</div></div>Nikkihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08141845281496183473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-46457328610029623762023-03-31T12:00:00.001+01:002023-03-31T12:00:00.188+01:00Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of Mabel sewing inspiration" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiW2_5PcdB8IEduAUpETROwSPVn6wncXAVSIQNFqzWIZnZSJ7Bafq1oQ7DGO_CPxaMNWgwi4CdwgIRF8ZSKBhNO9iJZYjHkW5xrPG5uck18k8wtgkZ18AdWLeOI3p9x5MAX9nDTlxD-C0CyF7-A6Ny7naIiPmx6sdGa-cJnbyp2h9kx_afbWbAnw/s16000/Inspiration%20and%20Fabric%20Picks%20for%20Sewing%20Mabel%20-%20header.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p>In the mood for Mabel? You're in the right place! It's time for your dose of <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">Mabel blouse and dress</a> sewing inspiration. </p><p>The Mabel sewing pattern is ideal for many fabrics you may well already have in your stash. We recommend <b>lightweight woven fabrics</b> that gather easily. Cotton-based materials such as lawn, poplin, voile and seersucker will give a casual daytime vibe, or you could go with something like a viscose (rayon) or crêpe for a softer silhouette and silkier look for the office or a party.</p><p><b>Gingham & Checks</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of images of the Mabel blouse in light blue and yellow gingham fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQlSwTVYsBKbHXq6w_L7Qpx01duw76o2AJqUelZUGueQKV96YLYA_JWfm96qqTdv4333KkZ31iStSrESryQaJR9zp9xO6nIlZnuqdGT93ArhUrW_ZJuH5wiE2LNEZdu0q9VBtB00HpcDJDGvLsUAUb5yx5vKU0l15XH-k-Fqp3I57MK6f5B2IEVQ/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20gingham.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><i>Fabric: <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/yarn-dyed-gingham-cotton-blue-yellow/" target="_blank">Yarn Dyed Gingham Cotton - Blue & Yellow</a></i></p><p>If you're new to shirring, make your life easier with a fabric with directional lines like ginghams and checks. We love this combo so much, we made our Mabel blouse sample out of gingham too!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of shirred gingham tops and dresses" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAKAW25U6oFf196F3n61v88efvzX6S3UNDbnupeW5y7FRiqk4HOv3x8EznClVE03-RMJYMPxKKeuiMPU9n6BAs_dziineSUUyowAPHYrzcQO1rfKlHJjLV4BG-A5uawIv-AJmrzZky7sVisrtEKq0wJfEqTGlnvst2oFGecxITzwfAnSOWYUYig/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20gingham%202.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://www.newlook.com/uk/womens/clothing/dresses/yellow-gingham-shirred-square-neck-midi-dress/p/681568289" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.greatplains.co.uk/products/classic-gingham-dress-riviera-blue-milk" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.nobodyschild.com/red-check-ammie-midi-dress.html" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.voodoovixen.co.uk/sadie-black-gingham-top.html" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.warehousefashion.com/gingham-square-neck-puff-sleeve-mini-dress/AWW01859.html" target="_blank">5</a> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A selection of gingham fabrics" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAvMnTllgZihOKgTFSjy9ZD6cAPNOjlood-ZpmmXXTjMqOSxGgA8vVfr7xJ6Um1rL04qJPnAMEMdeZ6zGcPaKkUAYP2daWpCQBwICxfr3IU7TcJWCpLDkuUbuT_1XlZbGH-GuivJOq2Ql0BFoJ4V3d-ghgqbjpUQORUOSaqnIWJ9-fMYSdzQ4thw/s16000/Marnie%20fabrics.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://sewmesunshine.co.uk/collections/pigeon-wishes/products/pink-blue-gingham-seersucker-pigeon-wishes" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/ottoline-gingham-viscose-crepe-green/" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://sistermintaka.com/product/salt-crinkled-yarn-dyed-gingham/" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1263815/14-inch-check-cotton-gingham-fabric-black-yellow&variant=1263804" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/yarn-dyed-gingham-cotton-lilac-rose/ " target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://www.stitchandink.co.uk/products/rainbow-gingham-polyviscose-tartan" target="_blank">6</a></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p><b>Simple to show off the shirring</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of images of the Mabel dress in plain fuchsia pink fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xA4OW290bmPyATF9ujEbmSyHKtKAkB2KRXeR1CBNbLeUMCCqauhu3ZxOfLxY-kBpaZmNX5a_VyjZLGweTXORjU_UeJwT5L3jCsP98mnl9i7nMcyafJa5u-3gSTRiUkw6GxRylSNSYMRBhWUlXZ1ltiKBqc2PrjVDUyUTU7nelrY1p1fp9y3lFw/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20plain.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><i>Fabric: <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1015236/john-kaldor-rapture-viscose-crepe-fabric&variant=1014841" target="_blank">John Kaldor Rapture Viscose Crepe Fabric</a></i></p><p>Show off your newfound shirring skills with a solid colour fabric. The viscose crepe we used for our head-turning fuchsia Mabel dress has a luxurious drape and comes in a range of colours.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of shirred tops and dresses in plain colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidCF--KEBsYVqP1u9RAadGdJOnBQULN6ibs_ZEg1sfpDkt7xuGp3PVH8eSu9eqgp77hINJkrQaCiI9DV1ts19ptAINW58P0bi5rbSLoWjzhzSuCSYOR4fsnuv_Uc1XtBqMAS6WqpJf0fn7W90lrglvYqT-MM7tx93pW0tebb-zY27DpXms-dqFLA/s16000/Mabel%20Inspo.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=square+neck+tie+front++shirred+dress&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiy7LeQ8e_9AhXisEwKHW3uCAcQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=square+neck+tie+front++shirred+dress&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1COBFiTEmDlEmgAcAB4AIABOIgBwgSSAQIxMpgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=8yIbZPKmFuLhsgLt3KM4&bih=789&biw=1440#imgrc=dANEO73XarbmWM" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.asos.com/forever-new-petite/forever-new-petite-puff-sleeve-tiered-midi-dress-in-red/prd/202534067" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.marksandspencer.com/pure-cotton-square-neck-maxi-tea-dress/p/clp60525484" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.asos.com/forever-new/forever-new-puff-sleeve-tiered-midi-dress-in-emerald-green/prd/202517803" target="_blank">4</a> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A selection of solid colour fabrics" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbmwJdwl0zzflsxAjRAT2-04SDX_4kT5QLg-wUcd65jIGhY72LXE4sNf_Z_wp9WXjkB-S9jsq9u72p9Z48EDo6eW1MveLi6LTh2EATxzzDgEo0mLZxiod_93R7oUjHSqA7YPP5C8mux49_D6eXbjqM7D-AhWrXI2VMrhGcGDkXvv8oOtJ_YKNGA/s16000/Marnie%20fabrics%20-%20plain.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://sewmesunshine.co.uk/collections/linen-fabric/products/viscose-linen-slub-turquoise-blue-1" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/washed-100-linen-lilac/" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1198291/viscose-crepe-fabric-white&variant=1170212" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://higgsandhiggs.com/product/100-cotton-plain-superior-lawn-blush-45/" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://plushaddict.co.uk/dress-fabric/cotton-lawn-fabric/solid-colour-plain-cotton-lawn-fabric-red.html" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/shop/fabric/peacock-blue-sorona-viscose-linen-fabric" target="_blank">6</a></p><p><b>Spots and dots</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of shirred tops and dresses in polka dots" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH5yU0jDk-hZJ9XbMUEyhpEEcUd3lnjjSKUeM-Pz7I3sqlLi7_eGMoE4xd3tbLgMdrcB38YECpprQ42FSLuAjUbaUlPIfILIvpC_glcrHz4lrv0FXl5HuaJyMgaQYUkfFFL6D1vcmHw5zvkLFKbLyrbJbDEREy4Ye7w3odBX1esyLM94G9nXS4Jg/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20spots.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=square+neck+shirred+blouse&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjIiPTM8O_9AhWHh1wKHYsLDPUQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1440&bih=789&dpr=2#imgrc=H8zyDWO_Faya0M" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.newlook.com/uk/womens/clothing/dresses/black-spot-shirred-frill-square-neck-midi-dress/p/816086809" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.newlook.com/uk/womens/clothing/dresses/red-spot-ruched-button-mini-dress/p/676311469" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://joanieclothing.com/bouvier-silver-polka-dot-midi-dress.html?epik=dj0yJnU9bWtOXzFuN2ROWXlvNlBKakhlYVd1Vkk3SjJ5SjNLWVQmcD0wJm49TjBCcmlvaFBxeEtUVVdvZnpXam5TUSZ0PUFBQUFBR1FpcUlr" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://www.newlook.com/uk/womens/clothing/dresses/sunshine-soul-green-spot-square-neck-mini-dress/p/842121939?Extcam=uk_soc_pin_shop" target="_blank">5</a></p><p>You can't go wrong with polka dots! Mini, speckled or bold. Monocrochome, muted or multicoloured. There are so many spotty fabric options waiting for you.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A selection of polka dot fabrics" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSTDstYynbiSb70RjIdnpfToxwsrW1-Jcrtt-jjI--XQ1LCp6vgZqdjzkiafYyn-vZ6HhDrybpb86w2to6rz285pZJbCTww8eB0yOKnuYbGYkWJmE2wXGmgLxgUYMKs1uDZkVh6S9cSwqGv6rVbAlgaZlMKQz3Lgfrp_j92Z8l772CF3j0VtL2g/s16000/Marnie%20fabrics%20-%20spots.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://lamazifabrics.com/products/polka-dot-night-viscose-poplin-fabric?_pos=7&_sid=8a31ed646&_ss=r" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://lamazifabrics.com/products/terrazzo-white-linen-viscose-blend-fabric?_pos=12&_sid=831026dd3&_ss=r" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/cherries-swiss-dot-cotton-rose/" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1256165/lady-mcelroy-viscose-challis-fabric-bottle-green" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://higgsandhiggs.com/product/cotton-poplin-dots-penny-dot-20mm-sky-blue-white/" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://sewmesomething.co.uk/products/black-and-white-polka-dot-viscose-fabric" target="_blank">6</a></p><p>F<b>lorals</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of pictures of the Mabel dress in floral fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7DUvgYHSERUpRMCxDo8l6y0futTT8WIJINtHqojxVGrBtRGJAFoNd2hG7htJP60Z06Zof2BgR9CDiTnjuITn7RbwUmwE8TyORBR8GaDJ9lc7Hyyhdz3f6YSiRt70gNpIffHrQ7b9G3NAnAodsD56j2cCy2OZsBHnRpk6KE5n2LsdPBO6BTItoA/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20floral.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><i>Fabric: <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/joni-ecovero-crepe-navy/" target="_blank">Joni Floral Stripe Ecovera crepe - navy</a></i></p><p>We know we aren't the only ones obsessed with Fabric Godmother's Joni fabric. With its directional floral border print, you can play with the positioning like we have above; with the print horizontal across the bust and vertical on the skirt & sleeves. But we're also dreaming up bold floral print dresses and pretty ditsy blouses. There really is no limit to flower prints!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of shirred tops and dresses in florals" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9j2t_ECozMJa52w4yD99vKc7_P1ccms9XZ7XXpBNMPGzoXtQZQS8OAZZ1w1PcgjpDG5m-4bgXHr2Fu2ytjshtWPUVab2sNGEDZbiOx8nKvAStdEeU1U1BZ-wJ8E4hfwt2ncjfyrjldkWAsi-W9TyWj8Tey0x5A8tl4c4Vi0XkJo6A__Xx1Vj8_Q/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20floral%201.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://www.newlook.com/uk/womens/clothing/tops/cameo-rose-pink-floral-shirred-tie-front-crop-top/p/836897579" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.marksandspencer.com/floral-tie-neck-midi-waisted-dress/p/clp60539613" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://petalandpup.com/products/missy-top-red?variant=41119347867825" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://www.asos.com/asos-curve/asos-design-curve-tie-front-midi-tea-dress-with-godets-in-green-and-lilac-mixed-floral-print/prd/202958548?clr=mixed-floral&colourWayId=202958549&SearchQuery=floral+tie+neck+dress" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://sugarlips.com/products/truth-be-told-viviana-puff-sleeve-crop-top-curve?variant=39926645424195" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://us.shein.com/Ditsy-Floral-Shirred-Blouse-p-6058392-cat-1733.html?utm_source=pinterest.com&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=uspin_dpa_women_sw2110185894066225&url_from=uspin_dpa_women_sw2110185894066225" target="_blank">6</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A selection of floral fabrics" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPFptFuKyRZ8SGIFyJvzjMQZifgAFym-W0PCferjbShQlJX0lxcp6EOncB2-Njw2om8MVjF9qtKuIv36xabKqHPkTtuVVZHs0dTCeT_A0v-YEzr9gnG0JkLF0pS5MRMy32iGgJSXwxyvL39GusLxRcgCh9wdTmIboYDXYn8zYsMttZo-YeWoHKpg/s16000/Marnie%20fabrics%20(1).png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><p><a href="https://sewmesunshine.co.uk/collections/linen-fabric/products/viscose-linen-gertie-floral-fabric-godmother" target="_blank">1</a> / <a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/jude-viscose-twill-black/" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://heysewsister.co.uk/shop/p/victoria-viscose-cotton-seersucker-ex-designer" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://heysewsister.co.uk/shop/p/joy-by-hey-sew-sister-cotton-poplin" target="_blank">4</a> / <a href="https://plushaddict.co.uk/dress-fabric/cotton-lawn-fabric/dashwood-cotton-candy-cotton-lawn-packed-floral-on-cream.html" target="_blank">5</a> / <a href="https://lamazifabrics.com/products/lilac-lilies-linen-viscose-blend-fabric?_pos=2&_sid=831026dd3&_ss=r" target="_blank">6</a></p><p><b>Embroidery Details</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="A collage of shirred tops and dresses featured floral embroidery colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpW2PBR8_rNy41KgDJaQP2M1wc3nfJjDRzo5ukdzBxOlCCDklCwZIyyZ984ZOjQ0vGLdI1sE31Q-rm5c6zoBn8MYjnLfwr3yo2eN4NeFQlDRtJz6FBjz5oW3b878QUYjE93vwtyt1sgLhBvhFvtvdBVV7o495wzylf0OE3BDbHqUXWNZpF8tvtw/s16000/Mabel%20inspo%20-%20embroidery.png" title="Sewing Inspiration & Fabric Picks for Mabel sewing pattern - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://narrationsldn.com/products/vintage-embroidered-peasant-blouse">1</a> / <a href="http://www.polyvore.com/muzungu_sisters_dora_embroidered_cotton/thing?.embedder=20196913&.src=share_desktop&.svc=pinterest&id=185742553&utm_campaign=default" target="_blank">2</a> / <a href="https://hollyville.com/products/30s-peasant-blouse-in-ivory-by-house-of-foxy?variant=44035137995030" target="_blank">3</a> / <a href="https://m.zaful.com/m-app_h5-a-app_download.htm?actiontype=3&url=702239&name=&source=banner&lang=en&utm_source=appshare&utm_medium=pinterest&utm_campaign=ProductDetail" target="_blank">4</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Tilly recently shared her beautiful <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2022/08/tillys-embroidered-puff-sleeve-indigo.html" target="_blank">embroidered Indigo dress</a> on the blog and this lovely floral embroidery would look right at home on a blousy garment just like Mabel. (Stay tuned for an embroidery tutorial coming soon-ish!)</div><p>We hope this has got you itching to get on and pick a fabric to make your <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">Mabel dresses and blouses</a>! For more Mabel sewing inspiration, make sure you check out our dedicated Instagram hashtag where makers have already started sharing their gorgeous Mabel creations. We can't wait to see yours!</p><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingmabel/" target="_blank">#SewingMabel</a></h3><p>*****</p><p>Author: Abi Dyson</p>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-34747588716093844592023-03-29T12:00:00.052+01:002023-03-29T16:10:14.560+01:00Meet Mabel! Our Dreamy Shirred Dress & Blouse Sewing Pattern<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel dress and blouse sewing pattern in sizes UK 6-34" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAy_ElLsdil_qU4GqFignRN_utNROQJCqeXnKHylycJHyOQeysA6TSTaVplrY0tyrZ-Vy7V2sX5Acn5XjHJPI7ZcxRSk6C_aUDyP-2xKL23-EKqFaX2euTeFKrjXbYsU7qVDyoi2dsXYG5Qir-KsWTM9Vym4lM7vZsbnZ7Lyjlf65cneIts2UlQ/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%20header.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Get ready for all the compliments with our <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern</a>! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">If you fancy giving shirring a whirl, we're here for you. Our award-winning photo instructions clearly explain how to sew with elasticated shirring thread, with the extra help of a <b>free video tutorial</b> by Tilly, with thanks to the support of our friends at Janome UK. Check out our <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/mabel.html" target="_blank">Mabel sewing pattern page</a> for helpful tutorials that will make sewing your Mabel dress and blouse a breeze!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">ORDER MABEL HERE</a><br /><br /></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing a floral shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYkIj07k8mMCBQi1_h7cwZm7Yh79XPglDWGXwihyT9jfy755GB6Ztp7jK8YjMyeSurOgOQK1btRd6TIv-pGAdhXt3LgLVYMBKMDwhf7vNqenohr7pDElB4dtfWugYrOL2zTEqu7znrzto3NkUh3xZcrbjpFT1bIzPsg8O1cL9oooqTpgrkM-M0yA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2001.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /><img alt="Model wearing a magenta shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdsW3CuKDUFLumAaqync2GJzN4ahXkld-xssMPUWoAy75ho9HQIoEyF9IiBn26eNeO4y98MNLrB7B6P79cRseN5WfNvPYgSYu0pXIT88PyKxMTmZR77U_7XREyNJZXdhgHr5sam7DKy9f59Ky2Tb3IH4ZlpDWNVEaJ3ZXPbmfIscMKpmCK4foKiA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2024.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /><img alt="Plus size model wearing a shirred gingham blouse, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KWd-cKMz8vQ6szdp4e_hYZg1vTd_xw30TPknIJChppdAKDACtGiLl2sqnpujzPPzBytBkftNUG4anruHjs5E-2RrzfUFYTGH-yMXpU83Wn33ypPV4s1BQN3ZmclrokviYD650WsRGtu9GyLoq6x6S1pVTdYCOBMOESdiyIDuuLfAt15IJxsxsg/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2023.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Technical drawings of Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern showing midi dress with full length sleeves and peplum blouse with cropped sleeves" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAyXzmAUlFC3eFdVVuRfxK3AoFWB3AxTokzVNXrWMpsCgr1YRH_wJQcXnEddvtlUpdU60dbopinrI9HCGas7zI-p_acaBf-Hrag5fsNEZxe7qKEtlqeTaZMhtoKXyWpdWbKHNz79cwFgNsxX0nNq_Pxv4T0OeCkTiio9R_onlHAeSYdIWzb1l09Q/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2002.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><h3 style="text-align: center;">THE PATTERN DESIGN</h3><p></p><div>Shirring has become a popular sewing detail that we're loving at Buttons HQ! Mabel is the perfect introduction to this gorgeous technique. What's more, the on-trend design of this head-turning blouse and dress is absolutely stunning! Fall head over heels for these details:</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Flirty, square-shaped elasticated neckline</li><li>Full-length or elbow-length sleeves, with deep shirred cuff or narrow shirred cuff with frill hem</li><li>Voluminous raglan sleeves elasticated around the shoulders</li><li>Front neckline has a pretty frill, keyhole opening and faux drawstring ties</li><li>Blousy bodice and floaty skirt cinched in with shirred waistline</li><li>Make it as a midi-length dress or peplum blouse</li></ul><p></p><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">ORDER MABEL HERE</a></h3><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><img alt="Model wearing a magenta shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVby8EkXBUUd_UHvgyeqcejaH43FBwzPrE2wF7RHL3PEQE7unrJIMCxybCeOs7XhdL_msWexU8aNyfMf6mBW_TkYEd6Sx0eiKaNs-LoXmfq0pBQVYaFcQp0SwCd8XbUYldVkJf_Tbpiro7smw5d_LzzOcsYFL9CUdW42xCs-yL2AegyMJB3loPnw/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2025.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Model wearing a magenta shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhApBMF_AFiTXfY7ndIhdDyTYAfigTES9K3rfSOFCuyOoJ8RnrCF2-lOGELqK1R4_x6NOB6o0D8SjYTlEXL3AlR34_6T4Fw8hjv02bgVQ2epRBMWgrzvf3Auny_aCpXleSgTV_3MlUM8lkKekTgYCmAsDFAMXdFArlTw0AudSIoNkPr2llYk7-BDg/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2021.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><img alt="Model wearing a magenta shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4pOZ4011-eGp8pgvGYORlS1gcSv0kHbWrp50Ezr8zERWI9bkLNKop7l2GkT3ss2OfD1cl_dlaVA9YhdsB-n_IETW42CIf7YXFyVYPyNrg6tuxHX3TbcCzIVHUA9VGolL2T8ncEnKzt-5MC-0ILWlfs9KHL3zqszXu9VylnRD7wV62tKqKIhmMg/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2003.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern cover" border="0" height="867" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVTXWtPcbByIuKlOWHo7lwA97WJ1N2zWSfJEVYF1ycyWKM4T-z0xev_tBwGNQ8w7k9J5MWKjelvoMR5e9PWeuo90ApnavKheNrMrRY5_5j3Ta6eupDelR9xMjFn5f6geqhKOlYzdyGKi0sHm8xH4qEoZ9PbRCcbLo6fhqq-ElR2X-iB30BMc04ug/w650-h867/Tilly_and_Buttons_Mabel_Dress_Blouse_sewing_pattern_cover.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" width="650" /></div><div><br /></div><div><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span>SIZING AND FORMATS</span></h3><p>Mabel is available either <b>printed or PDF in sizes UK 6-34</b> / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62. (<a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/collections/uk-6-34-size-patterns" target="_blank">Shop our growing collection of printed UK 6-34 sewing patterns</a>.)</p><p>Our award-winning sewing patterns feature clear instructions with step-by-step colour photos to guide you through the project. The pattern pieces themselves are clearly labelled so you can see which seam is which and how they go together. </p><p>Order the printed sewing pattern and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use again and again without it tearing or scrunching up. </p><p></p><p>Mabel is also available as an instant PDF download. You'll get an email straight after purchase with a PDF to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. Need further help? <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2013/01/how-to-use-digital-sewing-patterns.html" target="_blank">Read our guide to using PDFs</a>.</p><p><img alt="Plus size model wearing a shirred gingham blouse, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqd6FUtzmd6WYgraNxeOwRMQz3rKYJSqBYyfkVDvP4s-A-UkVrav0e64St744FgJpSgpxqkYVrfjWazaZtPAI2v9fswFsGwnUFWNUVevptzOXVBESHMmTQE2GPkZEs7JUyGa6k8C2Z9pyJ1RgkcNr-NtEVRlmhcXkb8NF9iirwNnjzTvKyW9ewxw/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2004.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /> <img alt="Plus size model wearing a shirred gingham blouse, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxClPXMpKVLUYyZYhzG_bxDPl3gwGr8sdmOz8OzW184zfhBI5FWaPKdODDAK3SVWKND9vfeZGrFXALhwLNnOhCzXI09bV4cYs0YXovHVG1objhUgDgwCKBR1J_gcDHePkjsi63uUF58XZmnP-sTF_euRLCrjIIHoqsXDqeybqEaj9R0hyxw3BcrQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2020.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /><img alt="Plus size model wearing a shirred gingham blouse, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-aQ-2hzNbLZTMlCV4t6MjQAWAkyuJeuKag48-FdnUWoT5FDn6psIpN9gtwZgpT2JVvbI1DQ9CiWa-cdcMOyO6-mzha1zZUqOZOEpfdTOaNLrMxq_WW4xA2gK792v1rqRcjibtqj2XLdmneV_u6NBYKoorNo2dw2MDiX_TaQVrGoekfHpNpR0OJg/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2005.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></p><h3 style="text-align: center;">FABRICS & SUPPLIES</h3><p>Mabel goes well with lots of fabrics you probably have in your stash - yay! Sewing shirring is easiest with lightweight woven fabrics that gather easily, such as cotton lawn, poplin, voile, seersucker, viscose (rayon) or crêpe.</p><p>Bonus tip: if you use gingham, as seen on our Mabel blouse, you'll provide yourself with some shirring sewing guidelines thanks to those checks! </p><p>Check out the <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/mabel.html" target="_blank">Mabel sewing support page</a> for our sewing and fabric inspiration post!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing a floral shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsk-proUPuqAXxnfnhEp5BAAU3HrY4DZASTS9gLoL8Rvcn0pTJTCHUKg0bvpxrK90GgULc8IAtUUD11Tb0wrg-U08QLw3StBV1cjbTO8yY0yblxlzP4_x5gd9tZF7PKfjJeJSHlb1QkXLoZU7oEzjnMAhgOUERsJ9Z5ogWIUbShVAOvt1Ai0XjA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2022.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><img alt="Plus size model wearing a floral shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNvA8yLiRnzF_vmasDO_Et_mtHEyBL1qELYbGenSu2gjoRzHAcWc9peFfrFj6xh_q8Ay-Zk_7_lYgPN9D_8PtG0_tvHWIR9inA3IyKNvamCElu_du8I62TxSexabPaOKFeVjaIytiXrP136xErTQGdTJYO0l0uTFyOlMct5ETxY8KxwOvgCHVeA/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2006.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Plus size model wearing a floral shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirbCUIdMpO3hBJ-5ddS11MxviaYBNzVvQkgh-0I6dhqiBXTzinQly_lPvlKMfa-B79sfCs_nrBH7Pw2TVWC0rR3-i6vlIgqE5zawnw1D8iVUiQIASm75410mFCR_A2qPUWOQD_Jjc4ZCN-nmmtZ_lx_2wVzvbM2XDNFnnxhbwD1GHQTv1G6XZyKw/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2007.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly sitting at a desk with a sewing machine wearing a black and white spot Mabel top" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaEfFvZlxxNcgRtNhB4nlBqLHrmrg-d6AKrjeQSkz8ULZ0vPdcoleIDefGskvPnJzHfJKARH3tlpANiDmMI4Vpj0F1dYKkEzfAfkITKhqg5u_WWq-RN6PYH0o7upGjsNP7xS8QsSmQ08U01LwMvuaX78u7QFWFYgpV77_X2kjYlnIfM8-xipeMwQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%204.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to sew shirring" /></div><h3 style="text-align: center;">TIPS & TUTORIALS</h3><p>Mabel is a sewing pattern aimed at "improvers" - perfect if you are a confident stitcher already, or fancy taking your sewing up a notch with help from our tuition.</p><p>Supported by our friends at Janome UK, you can learn to sew shirring with Tilly thanks to our free blog post step-by-step guide and video - coming soon to the <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/mabel.html" target="_blank">Mabel sewing support page</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Close up of hands at a sewing machine, sewing shirring" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_JAT16GitZ6esic1e3XbciOSgW7tnhyWGZAubZaEQVkj8M1LyHWe-xoQxveW3rgCOxqwLzprgfCeKvhjrMd0BRcuvEAXUTflCoNk1bEjREJQcbKrL6EEqLMXgyv0BhRgrbWdkORv1_GUuhln130yVLldwlEoMDLssNkjzeJvK6HG0F2CE0s2Vg/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2018.jpg" title="How to sew shirring - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="An example of shirred fabric" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRl6sPRj7-rXNa-FmC6B1sVdrmoNY8u8vShBSqgAbckGN1noI3R_pZBscL3ZAa16F0IEaDRH8evIeJMC7jsZemSp7oCgqwCgbxpkEymn28geUNXRYT41Fnxohbooeuf9W4kNakqWmWVEQoWXsLByAbAdIOt78NK8Zl9ORPVe7ovRWC1lXGkjfr0Q/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20shirring%2014.jpg" title="How to sew shirring - Tilly and the Buttons" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Model wearing a magenta shirred dress, made using Tilly and the Buttons Mabel sewing pattern" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij63cfFnlFlHzHqh5JWn0sj1x3QncduOQYfG_mFo10PUmJYB8kyVgm77wOVWz0fohQPHorVMhzFWqo_lm_J2o--nAa4aoGkAWri9JxOaYL-wWsD1iEFVxa2YmxomSFcVcfE4Ntd_Yb9UaEIGjkeg2NSqEU47zJ37riN5Nsp8RSkfi8P6nIgbvzXw/s16000/Tilly%20and%20the%20Buttons%20Mabel%20sewing%20pattern%2008.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons Mabel shirred dress and blouse sewing pattern" /></div><p>We can't wait to see your Mabel makes and in-progress shirring shots. Don't forget to tag us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tillybuttons/" target="_blank">@TillyButtons</a> using the hashtag <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewingmabel/" target="_blank">#SewingMabel</a> so we, and the Insta sewing community, can see what you're making!</p><h3 style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mabel" target="_blank">ORDER MABEL HERE</a></h3><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GGc7Z9JyNT5739bFMgSp_Verl79JLXhi7cPfzgMXj4hzyEAXCmwo1hL0plqvg7hmaIVBHwnDmrQjS8mWWUrza8jMAkhU_KYT-7wVVT2oaRV0rBd563t4Jsx-scMJ3HU2M9HDCSyB_p8tW2BPsyiGQdCysec9AnakuGrZrB0QGsfKUrwMFx73Wg/s650/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="650" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GGc7Z9JyNT5739bFMgSp_Verl79JLXhi7cPfzgMXj4hzyEAXCmwo1hL0plqvg7hmaIVBHwnDmrQjS8mWWUrza8jMAkhU_KYT-7wVVT2oaRV0rBd563t4Jsx-scMJ3HU2M9HDCSyB_p8tW2BPsyiGQdCysec9AnakuGrZrB0QGsfKUrwMFx73Wg/s320/email%20sign%20off%20signature%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>*****</p><p>Models: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sarahbritner/" target="_blank">Sarah Britner</a> & <a href="whatsophiesmaking" target="_blank">Sophie Prat</a><br />Photographer: <a href="http://www.janelookerphoto.com/" target="_blank">Jane Looker</a><br />MUAH: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lauraannemakeup/" target="_blank">Laura Ann</a><br />Samples: Sewn by Vanessa Allen</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fabrics:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1015236/john-kaldor-rapture-viscose-crepe-fabric&variant=1014841" target="_blank">John Kaldor Rapture Viscose Crepe Fabric</a> - Minerva </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://pigeonwishes.com/product/yarn-dyed-3-color-cotton-gingham-bubble-fabric-yellow-and-grey-blue/" target="_blank">Yarn-dyed 3 colour cotton gingham</a> - Pigeon Wishes</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/joni-ecovero-crepe-navy/" target="_blank">Joni ECOVERO™ Crepe</a> - Fabric Godmother</div>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-91345688945000843102023-03-22T12:00:00.145+00:002023-03-22T14:17:23.336+00:00Tilly's Makes<p><img alt="Tilly wears floral Lyra shirt with black jeans" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjGLexR8AUbFmh0C2GGYwiqdCBpcvXyWOZFR4GUbxoxUrhJZ9Nqn1uENkjDWE43iZz8cg_GCoxLvOYIigzbqSW7-ghnEGXwqdB-Z7aacIAYM46I2AMA3tVFfHtZUcul_NJgq1t7d9yFCMH53e8dEhx-EUaR6a5-G3WdkQok-Zv04sqtX0pJY2TTwoN19A=s16000" title="Tilly's Makes - Lyra sewing pattern" /></p><p>Looking back at what I've made over the last six months, I must say I'm surprised at how productive I've been because I don't actually remember sewing this much! </p><p>And this isn't even all of it - as usual I'm making secret projects that I can't show you yet - patterns in development, because you want a surprise, don't you?</p><p>If you fancy a peek at what I've been making, take a look at my video talking you through recent me-made projects. (The details of patterns and where I got the fabrics are listed below.) Lots of florals, knits, and Marnies!</p><p><span style="background-color: white;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pnB7bLcdmMQ" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Close up shot of Tilly wearing floral Lyra shirt" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwtpTkv4dkKuN4MwtozOD0V_oNlEiAiPTcSiUcFLRTvXT0kvnxU9LXm1S4nY_kNNAKgCGIpz7Ev8RrZSxcuZ6trsrQow_FO0dz0Csas2Kqav-Dn-jXQWIZtAuuy59QQCTaJOYV0GK9_3K5mTK9K7ZHSKubS7SB3gVw3SoIlQcYi8CIxdtIMwa3Fp0WZg/s16000/Tilly-Lyra-shirt-1.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Lyra shirt sewing pattern" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/lyra" target="_blank">Lyra shirt dress</a> - hacked by leaving off the skirt and extending the front bodice, back bodice and button stand<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fabric: Floral viscose from Sew Me Sunshine<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly wears monochrome gingham puff sleeved dress with flower embroidery on the sleeves" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirN0gAbTe_0STIt5CLElhhjOzChOFDi1aAEZqjzjgwNyDAvUJZVmkeEidPd2q_F-88mbISbmcu40XGl_hDAUr-ckO3xVNz6zN_aGw-qVNLWU6aBS2UW2UnGmkoSpw1E0DzpTABqKXkl57huZjjxfnDxZKPpNLMilEmeSnJ24WsIx79YxvX2sCZBNVbcA/s16000/Tilly%20embroidered%20Indigo.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Indigo dress sewing pattern" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/indigo" target="_blank">Indigo</a> plus <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/indigo-add-on" target="_blank">Indigo add-on</a>, with sleeves hacked to make them extra puffy</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Fabric: Crinkle polyester gingham - I can't 100% remember but I think it was from Minerva</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly is standing in front of her sewing table and wearing a colour blocked sweatshirt" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFvZq6YVukMUTjtLKQHid0pRNxBnpKEs7LYLjFSNqiKpidNRPV4v_l07ae-oKObtiOM1vETavUnuXRKBtkeE7CTNwyQ68A3wxyqufC3ex4o9DqwfuxDLyZb6MOjtwsO17r3YVb0txyS-IZyF_cIXJ-xNSl6Y88K2OVFUbUL8XuZADMuG4QXL-KCJ878A/s16000/Tilly-Billie-sweatshirt.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Billie sweatshirt sewing pattern" /></div><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/billie" target="_blank">Billie sweatshirt</a></p><p>Fabric: Sweatshirt fleece left over from various projects!</p><p><img alt="Tilly wears baby blue jogging bottoms with hand print" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_4nq0dY9jfjC1abolxjZFAb-Pi1t_OetdaDU0gXMoZiBnfO0GnhXj-8P4ZzdV-ffQ8OrezYF9RiX2q14D4K5N_7hh7hAJqeFHTRol3WHaD5VtlbJL-XUWr_7gjzutoULL1ImcvLz2ZNRtHwpUFlsAo5nYazhv9_BqWLq3cpZFuL5Q5sWsRfVvkwog0A/s16000/Tilly%20Stella%20joggers.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Stella joggers" /></p><p>Sewing pattern: Stella joggers from my book <i><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/stretch" target="_blank">Stretch</a></i></p><p>Fabric: Sweatshirt fleece from Pigeon Wishes</p><p><img alt="Tilly wears stripey top with scoop neckline and ruched sleeves" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJQbOVLe-sPu_NyHYQrDnwfxxcYxnVGSNgmjs8dBpmIl_jBjilr1YGGComGL5YyJHrQ2TRw6D9nFdeM174flcI3xS4RFARFXg6mXwXRNXJHqJEy4WcocZtgAIBQaEMGlqtBx5mSOdgrVKcFCn-5UvSE87jq3vICsVN5A2mk2AFoFu1VqZCve3TpwHLg/s16000/Tilly%20Agnes.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Agnes sewing pattern" /></p><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/agnes" target="_blank">Agnes top</a></p><p>Fabric: Cotton jersey (I can't remember where it's from, sorry!)</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly wears floral fitted t shirt with lilac ribbed neckband and cuffs" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3yZx5LP5f_XSTo85DynCvbbHknhlQio88Ur5CwSqsVheykyuM7lDQqI1zcG_l69nnUndEXZWYfR9kBB5K2_MYkMz6J_wJozmQD203j7HXPAID-8Q05eeBlxk75VyoJghSrbkpiGEHSfCZmxNQHbk-mDNjTofACn8WRqGmE5fPqwqqy7DEwXdwp5RcnQ/s16000/Tilly-floral-Tabitha.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Tabitha T-shirt sewing pattern" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sewing pattern: Tabitha T-shirt from my book <i><a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/make-it-simple" target="_blank">Make It Simple</a></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><p></p>Fabric: Cotton jersey from Once Upon a Fabric<p><img alt="Tilly is wearing floral print colourful dungarees" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNiC2q6yEHbOAtXkmi9vGAC5KGGg-qmWPpVyVTNVIdq46ASfbWTMpblBFgnGx85_vLoIi0vp1gNNtmGoGGUtnLG_NJ2Vw4tRiEROJ5zUZdMXigt_9HdPzJhU2PZIwgiSo7hGAV3KJk6Nwn9g1nRfKMqYnro0UGvoBc1I9M6SXTx8vcC2O5BQ89mOk9KQ/s16000/Tilly%20Erin%20dungarees.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Erin dungarees sewing pattern" /></p><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/erin" target="_blank">Erin dungarees</a></p><p>Fabric: Linen viscose from Fabric Godmother</p><p><img alt="Blue Victorian style blouse with ruffles and tucks hangs up on a door frame" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEb6N3L_4RCFJaEEx2lbGRHdQka45X7P88fuFQsgpPV8YkG6pW9fTARVN6lKzcdE4IBueEyRu9ED4uDZyqu4HJbAuFPmrvgiKXywT0Ps6SvVJfvkz-RKPquUN4vzxmdikLRw0jjhkaPiXmtM9SO4TYzhiKO2x3WQrtvET_D_9gBsQ7_d5Rymbien2K8A/s16000/Tilly-blue-Marnie.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Marnie sewing pattern" /></p><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse</a></p><p>Fabric: Cotton voile from Minerva</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly wears white floaty blouse with strawberry print" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghOrWhxnGcE2lyH8rnr2vkyTF3bgwLD95bJoisn62lUKH5x139y0RBJWuALkPH5MkN43OHV3YFVUCqdCmhgcTk2rQ1Z1k3zbKNs2jvWA1SGYg2SPeXm9koo6CJJ_mrElVLKhaLNIWqxaZ5AbQLVwA_oGTfW1b_MeiMDfvR6jECHkr0hnKQ0DummNclqQ/s16000/Tilly-double-gauze-Marnie.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Marnie sewing pattern" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><p>Fabric: Double gauze from Hey Sew Sister</p></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Close up shot of ruffled blouse made in Liberty floral printed cotton" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5WPLrxXEOXTPySMk1xfU-piyTwhDsAA7-dlz4AZ7Hnq9KQyRMCZOcatIbhUZAbnxx5KNUmNO4nUJbtRwNIEQWsaIF9Enhd6oGkN8CqKUgLeJ3Xz-ricF_2SwOyWbXNVxZpb4nAQHIguj70WF5EKsnmSn1bGRsNnQmVJCr8FTvlUXSZ6GP5gdm21gWnw/s16000/Tilly-cottagecore-Liberty-Marnie.jpg" title="Tilly's Makes - Marnie sewing pattern" /></div><p>Sewing pattern: <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/marnie" target="_blank">Marnie blouse</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><p>Fabric: Tana cotton lawn from Liberty</p><p><br /></p><p>Whatever you're making at the moment, happy sewing!</p><p>*****</p></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Author: Tilly Walnes</div><p></p></div>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-38213135470404522382023-03-08T08:00:00.001+00:002023-03-08T08:03:20.183+00:00Cutting and Sewing with Stripes<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxtXqMcf5Iz8wYoIraVwq-qSbZsTmXIm2FF7pAsXOs0EfExPl5Lg3nVQsM0wGFPvnZZCT3Di303iK6pI8N4EXB43AAORNC_Dhis-CokwHX8Ab-JNLLZBqe5-zeT0VYhFTJxT9oPic6NeD3gugzAA-rTwr4ine0PAoPw7ed69oVZT4Kfn8AU1iUQA/s16000/cutting%20and%20sewing%20with%20stipes%2001.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><div><br /></div><div>It's no secret that I love a good stripe. But making clothing with striped fabric adds the challenge of matching up the lines when you sew the pieces together. So I thought I'd share some tips on how to get your stripes matching up at the seams - this is the process that I go through when making a stripey top or dress using the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/coco" target="_blank">Coco</a>, <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/romy" target="_blank">Romy</a> or <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/agnes" target="_blank">Agnes</a> sewing patterns.</div>
<br />
But first, I'd just like to point out the obvious fact that this process is totally optional. Ready-to-wear clothing is sold all the time with unmatched stripes. If the stripes on your dress don't join at the seams, the world isn't going to end. If anyone points out that the stripes on your top are a bit wonky, well, they're probably not the kind of people you want to be hanging out with. If you just wanna get on and sew without taking these additional steps, go for it - life's too short!<br />
<br />
Still here? Okay, so on to the tips. My stripe matching strategy begins before I've even cut the fabric...<div><br /></div><div><i><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rXCRB-sxeIU" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe></i></div><div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Finger pointing to lengthen/shorten waist line on the bodice pattern pieces of Agnes" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ByHDxPEVqIxoRVPK7AyI2Bs8NEBDYZyayXVwEWO8PxkPXRJuyjnZiLxpZJJOIPzDpsbdly90PLr0Ax7wy74C8BYUt1_roV2DsfOP3wau9EDk5SBfhVGswV442x4rXJlElaxuOPZuEYyyb8Vrq_0KOYw63CZvIsDyhsPjfr8cANIcTurvlx2jvQ/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%201.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div><div>Draw a horizontal line around the centre of the front bodice and back bodice pattern pieces, at right angles to the grainline arrow or centre front/back line. The pattern I’m using has a lengthen/shorten line in the middle of the pattern, so I’m going to use this.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div>
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Hand pinning stripes together along side seam." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9mEqd1lZXvEQtaCPUoNp3XFNUGV1n8VVyj09xzq_6wHgQnykRdC0MtUyOZFthoAQoBFncCT1FAUgTvK8gSctLyOICThq2ZNkV4YUvS2y9LBN5xP2StEn4N7OZFCmb7uol4Ud_zttkHpfTd192L13O58lkj-ZOwXsLCiRgpyessGcker04REF6w/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%202.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div>
<br /><div>If the fabric is on the thicker side and doesn’t slide around so much, you can fold the fabric in half to cut the bodice pieces on the fold. Make sure the stripes on the top layer are exactly on top of the stripes on the bottom layer by pinning them together at the edges.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>First, check it’s the two ends of the same stripe that you’re pinning together. Then insert a pin along the top edge of one stripe, turn the fabric over and check that, on the bottom layer of fabric, the pin is positioned along the top edge of the same stripe. If it's not, reposition it. If stripes are about 2 - 3cm or 1in apart, I usually pin every stripe; if they’re narrower, I go with every few stripes.</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>On single knit jerseys and other fabrics that are prone to moving around on your cutting table, it’s more accurate to cut with the fabric laid out flat, on a single layer.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Bodice pattern piece laid on stripe fabirc, placing horizontally along stripes." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcQno3E-_Wb8pon1ENI4JVAY7n9UixKRkL0Ib7waf2dTusq5dUdA6hXu-M0LbbwVzHcVZc2QZ6VLl6HBoTrTMSVnMKwPMDKHpKYt2Xcz5k0paE0E-c6RARkN5_ouoGvUM8doZc3gfj0JtHHNhYlfbrXRR4W4C9EK-d-Mjn0TbzhnovdjUzGdHrg/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%203.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div><div>Place the front bodice on the fabric, and line up a top or bottom corner with either the top or bottom of a stripe. Pivot the pattern piece so the horizontal line you added to the pattern (or the lengthen/shorten line) is exactly parallel to the stripes, making sure that it’s the same stripe on either side. Keep the pattern in place with pins or pattern weights. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you’re cutting on a folded double layer of fabric, line up the edge marked ‘place on fold’ with the fold line as you usually would, and cut away.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="One half of cut out Agnes bodice, laid over the right hand side." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhfg3cikiI7N7iafabXN8HU45FL8C0yc52cyJ1eA9gcXji2_EQhqsVS47FKSmZ0Six4SCE3K3ZsEJRCqunPngtdiYRIdpAbqUwWC4q6CvIB7ZZlFIxWMsdLUr9cK_p2eitthn929Nq4JpLgqc3u6_-fAO95Q0kKVqnsLSZ29RbI3xgQtlIwe8RA/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%204.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div><div>If you’re cutting on a single layer of fabric, cut one side of the pattern, remembering not to cut the centre front edge marked ‘place on fold’. Mark the centre front line on the fabric by inserting pins exactly along it (alternatively you could mark it with chalk pencil or washable pen, but I find pins quicker and more helpful).</div><div><br /></div><div>Remove the pattern piece, then flip the cut piece over along this centre line, checking the pins are exactly along the fold. Smooth it out, line up the stripes with the stripes on the fabric below, and secure in place with pins.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Bodice pinned on top of the other side as a guide to cut out the other side symmetrically on stripes." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS5MRuk3gdSRHA-pAxC4B9Qk1bmfiw2frc19RNL6v92CEvyuVd8ECoLuu_gB_LDMTcvpK_Ri9eHddFSP1vCiQVoJZKEYc4_hpEeUOccsTWXqbKuZs8AeC8VwkzEuSPqska3lwL9HA8BxRNQR5iTHxjK00OhYLUEJLsKDqsFK3l_qF3z06O5ZjU8g/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2010.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div>Now you can use the first half that you cut as a template for cutting the second half, so you can ensure that the stripes are parallel all the way across.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Ct out Agnes front bodice, displaying horizontal strips." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCU7W4hN87cI5I2p94xkWEh93TqilWCB8yrBef68TePdol56z4SpJvwKYmt7ndXZ5c5-GICwFxYATdY7_6w0beiF3xqZYv-H7QjtsmJ47zNainiZ_OTt4cvN34ALNI6At2vQWVU_nkur4Kll7v7ExvER3e2C3BSDAFNQTrU1QrlMjbvQP9s5s_w/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2012.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div>So that’s the front bodice – let’s move on to the back bodice, and I’ll show you how to ensure the stripes match up at the side seams.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Hands pinning back bodic pattern piece on striped fabric, matching up with the stripes on the front bodice." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2iG5XyIXNvQrB0QNgzd1OBc95BbxastNR_l-T9_df6TIcc4_P0MGAak95YDQDD38KTtbRajaaPExIvj2RtJq0xFQt03GJ2QFOmmnsVFKSFpC4HC2ggS9sPYSw7XqMwii69YfXmSStOMzW5b0taY5BCzz8pD8FscxqguKHwJM18bCE0bVO7fcKg/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2013.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div><div>Lay the back bodice on the fabric, lining up the top or bottom corner so it’s in the same position in relation to the stripes as you cut the front bodice. For example, if you lined up the bottom corner with the bottom of a stripe, do the same on the back bodice. Pivot the pattern piece so the horizontal line you drew (or lengthen/shorten line) is parallel to the stripes.</div><div><br /></div><div>Secure in place with pins or weights, and cut the back bodice the same way you cut the front bodice.</div><div><br /></div><div>So that’s how you cut out a bodice so the front and back match up at the side seams. Below I show you how to sew them together, but first let’s talk sleeves.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Finger pointing to matched stripes on a curved sleeve seam." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKH03kDIC_W6I8qKr-TD8MG6DzvQJGTjY270WbwKPTjoFeHV0AkOx8nMPAoSkQjODW4lP9kUlkosxaRcADt82S5UXj4DhCmo5ejiYR-ouMqfimrZF5NNE9m6Z0NymC9NCI5vCNmOyUxdhPGcrn_YX_wnNNuYZUep95YdlMxY3m3tslonleaf9PYw/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2020.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div>Due to their curved shape, it’s almost impossible to get all of the stripes on a sleeve head to match the stripes on an armhole. So I wouldn’t even bother trying. But what you can do, if you are feeling fancy, is try to align the most prominent stripe – around half way down the front armhole, where the armhole notch is.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Hand holding tape measure to armhole of front bodice piece." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh--oZrlnQ-X8DkNNeG6RfPmYObDFbSgLTeRiyXd5lByY7Du6v_3B2GwcYRUc7a4tbykbvWV6IpwfoQv2jlPQwPR3lu712TRHtphEoYpr9hfQBUtICCywlmA_t8tpdC6VBD58_szX-HxAsr0QsBqLX3c4XJV4J1ZBbOZXcyRnYIkiKtRGbPsFtOdQ/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2015.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><div><br /></div><div>On the front bodice piece you cut out, measure in 15mm (5/8in) from the armhole notch, at a right angle to the raw edge – this is where the stitching line will be. Make a note of where this point falls in relation to a stripe – i.e. the top, bottom or middle of a stripe, or in between stripes.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Hands marking sleeve pattern piece with pink pen." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyXkoPre45-dsh960noebP5NfkfKO5Sj6csRRBxCRPlHfLpvkmCjtexGLbBXGMq2I3mqBNzgFyg__9JPQvedxukurzteAFpkuMhATqG_V6Iy-dnKqQS4fTcV3oPt0ZBsLlbkOKXdeDS6AHe34k8GJ5Yf6XFte-Pw-ADTbZ7DVq6Bv0h1mZb3-vbQ/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2014.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div>On the sleeve pattern, measure 15mm (5/8in) from the front armhole notch, again at a right angle to the edge, and mark this point with a dot in pen or pencil.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Finger pointing to dot on pattern piece, laid on stripe fabric." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKh0PqNFZNzu7N_1KOwjXSDfEZdupiJvWIh_Kpn66LiUA-0UQTXQBMG3nrv21yidjVHKbvGSGfnNtSz5oxy7qUU0ELuMKnN4yhUNqeMwi1UwSenr-o0cXsZ91b_XOrhAzdPJC6rVL4Yp2vR9Q-C7td_sDcKSYEtLopsc_zZJjO1V5Q48aoKrGStw/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2016.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Place the sleeve pattern on your fabric – again, you can fold the fabric in two if it’s easy to keep the stripes aligned, or cut on a single layer if your fabric is moving around, as lots of jerseys do. Line up the dot you just marked so it’s at the same position in relation to a stripe as the point on the front bodice armhole fabric piece (top, middle, bottom, in between…).</div><div><br /></div><div>Pivot the pattern piece to get the lengthen/shorten line parallel to the same stripe, as you did with the bodice, making sure the dot you drew stays in the same place. As knit fabrics have a tendency to get twisted, I also like to double check that the top corners of the underarm seams are exactly parallel to the same stripe so the stripes match up at the underarm seam, and the same with the sleeve hem. </div><div><br /></div><div>Secure the sleeve pattern in place with pins or weights and cut away. If you cut on a single layer of fabric, flip the sleeve pattern face down to cut the second piece symmetrically – or flip the fabric face down instead.</div></div><div><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Fingers pointing to stripes pinned together on the seams of the sleeves." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm-6fqL9igfchnxGmNoUEHwgFWYACGYjuZGQUFsg0gXFoQgt6nDg030wSKOoJVMi0DUdGthLcWwbjBY-tztsEAvmIetnQvDJ7mLcCoWxy6QFUHDE69jPC7j7t0s1PB8Wv98bnh3ccjjnj0aDhZaPZuCBMGYv_mjaoqNIciNC7U_MfeHFeFvc31rA/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2018.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So your pieces of fabric are cut out and ready to sew. When you come to pinning the bodice side seams or sleeve underarm seams, insert the pins along the top or bottom of each stripe (or every other stripe, or every few stripes, depending on how far apart they are) – use lots of pins! Check the pins are coming out in the same position in relation to the stripe on the underside. Also check that the pins are crossing the stitching line, ie. 15mm (5/8in) within the raw edges. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Whether you're planning to sew the garment together on a regular sewing machine or an <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/mfwa-overlocker" target="_blank">overlocker (serger)</a>, it's a good idea to tack (baste) first on the areas where you want the stripes to match – so the bodice side seams, sleeve underarm seams, and just across the stripe you’re aiming to match on the sleeve armhole. Set the stitch length to 4-5mm. If you've got a walking foot or dual feed foot for your sewing machine, attach that as it will help feed the layers of fabric through the machine evenly without one of them shifting along a bit faster than the other (some machines have this built in). Tack just within the seam allowance - ie. about 12mm (1/2in) from the raw edges. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Finger pointing at finished matching stripes along a side seam." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-oG0S1kzX5xM_xk60HNd7JV6uO1kze3sWna6y5IWSj148LdLopnt1mu0JVYp8uCpCSj1WHq-gn3P8Tl9TE3WVsUaqmX79KcRcG6JsNWyV-nU96G53xEr3zQvM7qSKta_-cPaEh9uAPR8d_Wvkyg-kiXhTXOzrIeyspQwb2qFAobXHtyWz7Gkdg/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2019.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div>Open out the layers and check the stripes are matching on the right side. If any of them aren’t aligned as neatly as you’d like, you can unpick that bit and try again (although I’m not judging!).</div><div><br /></div><div>Once you're happy with the tacking, rethread your machine and reset the stitch length - or get out your overlocker - and sew the seams for real. Now you can pull out any remaining or visible tacking stitches.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Tilly posing wearing a black and white stripe Agnes top, with ruched sleeve." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0InaA7AdYSvMVEcXIN_eh1nXHxiUM_l1-MXIXArtxlCJOndsHRKH_iFzuPN0WdMzUmEqPAf9dMwhNZ_pPlV5bNWfJbAL5LYsJi7KZny4M6mY5HQOR1aWQb3YNKLWu3rghC8uT7rQz1OrOhhVuA3BYonT1ZSPo8sh21oKU0jmfg49IrXu_SuEzQ/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2021.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div><div><img alt="Tilly posing wearing a black and white stripe Agnes top, with ruched sleeve." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6acXYP9azzj2d2lpf6pz9Pb9iEPnDSIhWSOO_ZEp0Nx-6PGKLfhTTHd-aHk-n7pDi8OWCzqT_EUxTzMXd3NTN0zFFcmCa2H9r9QqI6WHEttmAs0GynB_D7A6q90XyExni_lzT92dsHPme7ihWKbwBYT2p4i4ex9FN_-ccUt6T0fQXYQRSV-CHA/s16000/Matching%20stripes%20sewing%2022.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - Cutting and sewing with stripes so they match up" /></div></div><br /></div><div><div>You should now have beautifully matching stripes!</div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i>If you like this post, you may also like <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2018/06/troubleshooting-overlocker-serger.html" target="_blank">Troubleshooting Overlocker Stitches</a></i></div><div><br /></div><div><i>[This post was originally written in April 2014, and updated in March 2023]</i></div><div><br /></div><div>*****<br /><br /></div><div>Author: Tilly Walnes</div><div>Photos and video: Abi Dyson</div></div></div>Tillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05346200271671855136noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1645028049217909222.post-33223612907598089792023-02-22T12:00:00.175+00:002023-02-22T12:44:41.622+00:00How to Sew with a Twin Needle<img alt="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew with a Twin Needle" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsjBVvjAzHjNuteelnpBg_UO9r7SS9MaDtoFDlodCh_Afj79tI6fNP1D3zryk9A2IaMeDbehgtUF9d5rPP_QCDuxSaYQnsxK_ku_bMIlAepv59JCnjBl4VQnPCtx9tw1v7hWRhYX14aA0QwpI9cgaEx4pPEpiN5sFy6-VIRK4L_Mwi45xQNx9VenQlaA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%20header.jpg" title="Tilly and the Buttons - How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /><br /><p>Sewing with a twin needle can be a great way of creating professional-looking hems and other finishes on your me-mades. It's one of those techniques that can seem tricky at first, so I'm here to show you how it's done!</p><p><img alt="Examples of twin needes" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zulCZ5EpCTKInx0exCipe7Ec3t3R-AFQ0GpR_IAyXaFe9Y78rV89kL8ffvCBK_mBY6sorNtbyUHphfgdzOH755UuPjgAJAY9G6k_pjmHuV9XLd56IzTM60F0uUEQEqM09nsKE1UFIEZ_Ch8AUaObm3xVu_eNCnkcDIMdreY3oxWUDHgbCmcuhcR5IQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2002.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">What is a twin needle used for?</h3><p>A<span style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0em;"> twin needle (sometimes called a double needle) is composed of two needles connected by one shank at the top.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0em;">The twin needle creates two parallel lines of straight stitches on the top side, with a small zigzag stitch connecting them on the underside.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0em;">You can use it to topstitch the hems on garments made in</span> stretch fabrics, like the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/agnes">Agnes jersey top</a> or <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/billie">Billie sweatshirt</a>, as well as topstitching on non-stretch garments such as the <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/jessa">Jessa jeans</a> or <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/rosa" target="_blank">Rosa shirt</a>.</p><p>Here's how to sew with your twin needle...</p><p><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="366" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pDx9Uk5ts0A" title="YouTube video player" width="650"></iframe><img alt="Twin needle sewing supplies laid out." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfyw73VLx2w4uA_UYDfnu0Gr9e_yj-HKveViozqyfeAIYL3nZFXxP1KSY70OPEbt36RgwsODhRigXk39HKTlRENqpC2PkvR5kLtGtVeZ28dHfHpMFeS4vXZqrriEtn9pLw4CEln5uk-Xl8LY5eq-HPlt4PA2LaXz75HFMV41SuoRT51VN9w8bgntiX0g/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2001.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">What supplies do I need to sew with a twin needle?</h3><p>To sew with a twin needle, you will need:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Twin needle (see below)</li><li><span style="background-color: white;">Second spool pin if your machine came with one (don't worry if it doesn't have one)</span></li><li>Presser foot with a hole wide enough to fit the twin needle (if your regular presser foot isn't wide enough, try a zigzag or walking foot)</li><li>Two spools of good quality thread in the same colour, with one bobbin</li><li>Scrap of your garment fabric to test your stitches on</li></ul><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>Most modern home sewing machines will include one general-purpose twin needle, or you can buy them online or in your local haberdashery. It's a good idea to pick the type suited to your fabric (ballpoint or stretch for knit fabrics, heavyweight for denim...). You can get different widths, commonly with 2.5mm or 4mm between the needles - narrower is great for lighterweight jersey, whereas wider would be better for thicker sweatshirting, for example. Try them out and see which you prefer on your project.</div><div><br /></div><div>Do check your sewing machine's manual as it's likely to have a section on sewing with a twin needle, which should tell you which presser foot to use, where to find the second spool pin and any stitch setting adjustments to make.</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Twin needle fitted in sewing machine." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5GETbAFEU6Kokykf6EF4rEF2xI31itiaZQSPbK6Q0K79lh_RUM5gZGsMGg6Z38N2I9hWzzkwhv8sq6lQiXtuvkPRCmx0AKX8jXWy92HCmH2mYJc44QFj-e0wcx5a7F7RmcmheIiLqCR1dXchHpwLrI-o8TdvGjgO7NVmftOZpEOPm_mltkP8cGopzA/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2003.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /><br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">How to insert a twin needle</h3><p><span style="font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0em;">To install the needle, insert it into the machine the same way you would when you change your normal single needle, with the flat side of the needle shank at the back. Double-check your needles fit through the presser foot's opening by slowly lowering the needle with the hand wheel.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Sewing machine threaded with two spools of black thread." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPJVFL5WawxYz6hfnDPu5rF4l866O1JU_Mh_sFPE0V6g5R1OVVsmoRYNnTLDGAWeS2Tqp2iX_wOFEBxLxdrPijXCTNs7IEBwAQLdHb2GeehVXotvgLtn39NUrznneu1G5VG2NkeknPQ5in75a8bGs5Ur5P6bvJ-a3aiMO1nYHhw14d7fNdMfhKIWBmQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2004.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Close up of threaded twin needle." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-0wpre7RKpQC37rPMFyKmdAlzJw_T4M_bKZXTUDyLO628Ky9AtlkGrU1aPDQAsTGGUByFhicXVWhWmvC7GmpFTKouVVhxFwLRqxpB6BB7g6DYCz2m-z1jjd2OlhQAHKg7oINkFCkaU5eQOndJZrREmV5Mgq2eW-B4jd7Pd2vD6Efwu0kVPuKVIifDQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2005.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /><br /><br /></div><p></p><div><div style="direction: ltr; line-height: 1.3;"><h3>How to thread a twin needle</h3><p>You will need two spools of thread of the same weight and colour (if you want your stitches to match). </p><p>Put the first spool on the main spool pin, thread it through your machine's guides and hooks as normal, and insert it through the left needle.</p><p>If your machine has a second spool pin, attach it to the top of your sewing machine - your manual should tell you how to do this. On my machine, there is a hole at the top of the machine where you insert it. If you don't have a hole or second spool pin, you could use the bobbin winder spindle, or put a bobbin of thread on the main spool pin alongside the first spool.</p><p>Put the second spool on the second spool pin, with the cover on top. Thread it through the machine's hooks - but, to avoid the two threads getting tangled, don't thread this one behind the needle bar thread guide (the little hook just above the needle). My machine has a separate, smaller hook on the right-hand side for this purpose - thread it here instead if you have this too, otherwise leave it off. Finish by threading the second spool through the right needle.</p><p>Thread your bobbin as you usually would.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Twin needle stitch setting." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEMlb-WZ9sxec0rp2bGEL2TKmOJIKnoiFDyNz6Rrv8LcNkxmRLssKPy5lAWFqVK40MfqqqLPXR60bYW_3yS9ekMPPRL96RBSxF2Gk4rgLUMBoDtHbksSX7TEKUUcaU9TWFFW7ogZMOFbWMQFg8iDykbimoAsdY-Ft913Oilkzm_FuNxqAtY6uD9rH8g/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2006.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Twin needle stitch settings." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOya9ISETk4rc6bzQyseRz43eQ-VCAoQxs8-isKJ1BmhZSsXZo0Mxxu3HqG40wmuHciL8yZjGQxLOjiiBNz0M75IArDU0mQsfF2TWHqIPcGe7suWwt4KjNXyy0k9AnkJBy_CgJiEp2AJR4ujX54XjGu3wshE3y9gvJbNgEheQlUqIJ583FAFMSEE5gAw/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2007.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /><br /><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Stitch settings for twin needle sewing</h3></div></div><p>Most sewing machines will come with a twin needle stitch setting, which may look like two parallel lines or double needles. Set the machine to this stitch.</p><p>Try raising the thread tension by one notch. Once you've done your first test (see below), if you're not happy with how the stitches are sitting, you could adjust this a bit more and see if that helps.</p><p>Set your stitch length slightly longer, to 3 - 3.5mm. </p><p>Now you're all threaded up, let's move on to the sewing...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Swatch of fabric with twin needle stitches." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwxThWo5QHdSWVMwjTy2klhxSVfvfu1C5CGRVC_YuZQ2kQk60r_VHyIJXPYXFr93cUjG1F79QW60UkNSlMcVLOLtcOWXQIbZ1rA2rGmKarsLqITiBZtjJsQEjhFM52xJNlufduO1Ks8rV6PnO5Pk3WM_mJgvKFU-rHAKpjhhxAKefGq9ojApRqYmTiw/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2008.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></div><p><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Test your settings</h3><p></p><p>It's important to test out your twin needle on a scrap of the fabric you'll be using for your project, even if you've used it successfully before, as different fabrics may need different levels of thread tension. Press a fold of fabric under to form a hem (if that's what you're sewing).</p><p>Place the scrap - right side up - under the presser foot and lower the foot onto the fabric. The left-hand needle should just overlap the edge of the hem (that's on the underside) so all the stitching ends up on the hem. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Close up of twin needle stitches on blue fabric." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEira3zfBO-33kHKBZCHAdjA14HD5JcO2Or-tcZjcsyNnOhXRrcF6_3TSHnkFhtqy_9L0OpZWQvdaCeNZBVF-QIHjarWVk0D6eonoHX-JioYy1nib1rLnnRx7vmNHFHa1gvUI7gfwwN1E56Pwk4NvCeJYmL_X5hrqfWglsQEE1of3nsvFtglKEhNAORG_w/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2011.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Now you can start sewing! Take your time, guiding the fabric as you sew to keep your stitches steady, but try to avoid too much stopping and starting. As you sew you'll create two neat parallel lines on the right side of your fabric and a zigzag stitch on the inside (wrong side) of the fabric. Pretty cool, right?</div><p>Check the stitches on your scrap. If the stitches on either side look too loose or too tight, try adjusting the thread tension and stitch length, and try again until you are happy with the result. </p><p>Once you're happy with your stitches, it's time to grab your project and start sewing!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img alt="Sewing machine stitching the hem of blue fabric with a twin needle." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7JE7m388ICJMXC-O3n7iLe30z2pS4SR4djvG3UZWaKDVp1LB4Wsd7wxo8ADan7tD3Vzp7ZXzj4QhTo6MYdfcPVm4IMxhSw4fdo5wA9CSpFgPaMb1srjxRF1R_26TgReqBmVHkiLf-CCltZ08jte1t0krsK-iJE0OmEqsFJqzATu5EzHws3LFshQw2og/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2009.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /><img alt="Close up of twin needle stitches and a twin needle." border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRM-EE2e5a6lpkqf49BxgLGcDv4Sce_UIBMRbcOEbs3jRGtCx7_BokTU2npdl-ldqxADd4PYu8JVBIpx8eQVimuAkUoB3vJGQjdJ8xz60I3uxvjAm64Mp96OxI2GwvxwLFHXXeP1GLckKFjwuZ1x07Q4eArT1CF2xHyrOHJPHbQVROJmrblI6h5zaRuQ/s16000/How%20to%20sew%20with%20a%20twin%20needle%2010.jpg" title="How to Sew with a Twin Needle" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And that's it! Simpler than you thought and beautiful results? Absolutely!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Troubleshooting twin needle sewing</h3><p><b><i>Threads tangling up?</i></b></p><p>Make sure you're using good-quality polyester thread. </p><p>Thread the two spools through your machine one at a time, and leave the second thread off the needle bar thread hook (hooking it behind the separate one on the right-hand side, if your machine has one).</p><p><i><b>Skipped stitches?</b></i></p><p>Make sure you're using a new, sharp twin needle. </p><p>Sew as evenly and steadily as you can, not too slowly or with too many pauses.</p><p><i><b>Top stitches showing on underside?</b></i></p><p>If the zigzag on the underside is small, with loops of the spool stitches showing on the underside, raise the needle thread tension and sew another test.</p><p>You can also try lowering the bobbin thread tension. It's best not to do this on your main bobbin case if it's the only one you have - you can get a dedicated <a href="https://j-shop.co.uk/collections/bobbins-bobbin-cases/products/special-bobbin-holder-for-free-motion-quilting" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">bobbin case pre-set to a lower tension</a> (this one linked is for Janome DKS100 and similar top-loading machines with an automatic thread cutter), or buy a spare standard bobbin case to adjust the tension yourself, and mark it with a blob of nail polish so you know which one it is.</p><p><i><b>Tunneling on the top side?</b></i></p><p>If there's a raised tube of fabric between the two rows of topstitches, start by giving it a steamy press to see if that flattens it out and neatens it up.</p><p>Raise the bobbin tension slightly and sew another test. </p><p>You could also try lowering the bobbin tension - see note above about this.</p><p>A twin needle with a narrower width between the needles will be less likely to tunnel.</p><p>You could also use a wash-out hemming tape to keep the hem edge flat before you stitch it. </p><p><b><i>Hem shifting?</i></b></p><p>If the pressed-up hem is moving around as you stitch it, a walking foot or dual feed foot can help to feed the layers through evenly.</p><p>You can also try using wash-out hemming tape to hold the hem in place before you start stitching.</p><p><b><i>Wanna give up?!</i></b></p><p>If all else fails, you can always use an even zigzag with a regular needle to topstitch to hem knit garments - easy!</p><p><i>Fancy some more guidance sewing with stretchy knit fabrics? Don't miss our popular online workshop <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/sew-jersey">Learn to Sew Jersey Tops</a> featuring our best-selling Agnes top sewing pattern.</i></p><p><i>Liked this post? Check out <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2020/09/how-to-sew-jersey-neckband-with-video.html">How to Sew a Jersey Neckband</a> and <a href="https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2018/09/ten-tips-for-tip-top-topstitching.html">Ten Tips for Tip Top Topstitching</a>.</i></p>Abihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09908958465826664113noreply@blogger.com