Bertha, lovely Bertha, sometimes I think you're a dream...
The fourth sewing pattern in my new book Make It Simple is this cosy cardigan, perfect for layering over your me-made tops and dresses. (If you've missed the other patterns, check the previous three posts for the low down!)
Bertha is a slouchy, open cardigan with dramatically deep batwing sleeves. It's cropped at the waist and the sleeves are finished with narrow cuffs to balance out the silhouette.
Like the other patterns in Make It Simple, it can be whipped up in an afternoon, or in a few short sittings squeezed in around your work, childcare or other commitments. The instructions are broken down into chunks, with timings given for each part so you can easily see if you've got time to assemble the bodice before breakfast or attach the hem band while dinner is in the oven. I've estimated (based on tester feedback) that this will take you around 2 hours 15 in total to cut and sew together. (That is, if you hide your phone away!)
Bertha is one of six main sewing patterns, each with multiple variations, which are included in the back of the book ready to trace off, or which you can download and print on either A4/Letter or A0 paper - the choice is yours. The patterns come in ten sizes, from UK 6-24 / US 2-20.
Another fun variation that I'm particularly excited about is these thumbhole cuffs - so cute! If you love pulling your sleeves down over your hands in the colder months, but still want to hold your coffee cup or phone, these longline cuffs with added thumbholes are just the ticket. Again, this is one that I explain how to pattern hack yourself - once you know how, you can even add it to other patterns, such as sweatshirts and jumper dresses.
And how about adding some pompoms to your cardigan? I love the candy colours on this sample, and they'd look just as cute in a matching colour to your fabric, or even monochrome (ooh, monochrome...).
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
Make your Bertha cardigan in light- to medium-weight drapey knit fabric with at least 10% crosswise stretch. Look for Hacci knit, sweater knit, Ponte knit, jacquard knit or even viscose jersey for a lighter-weight layer. If you want to use a thicker fabric, make sure your sewing machine is sturdy enough to sew through multiple layers.
I found the mint hacci knit on ebay (it's quite lightweight so makes a nice spring/summer cover up) and bought the wool viscose blend sweater knit (which is a bit thicker) for the colour block version from this shop on Etsy (be warned that shipping was expensive from this shop last time I checked).
HOW MUCH FABRIC DO I NEED?
If you're out and about fabric shopping and forgot to check how much fabric you needed before you left the house, we've got your back! Here's what you'll need:
Main version
Sizes 1–4 (UK 6-12 / US 2-8): 1.4m (1½yd) fabric, 150cm (60in) wide or 1.8m (2yd) fabric, 115cm (45in) wide
Sizes 5–9 (UK 14-22 / US 10-18): 1.8m (2yd) fabric, 150cm (60in) wide or 1.9m (2 1/8yd) fabric, 115cm (45in) wide
Size 10 (UK 24 / US 20): 1.8m (2yd) fabric, 150cm (60in) wide or 2.3m (2 ½yd) fabric, 115cm (45in) wide
Plus:
- Matching thread
- Ballpoint sewing machine needle
Slash pocket version
As listed for the main project, plus:
- Approximately 0.4m (½yd) extra fabric, depending on the pattern you draft
- Small amount of interfacing (preferably knit, but woven will do)
Thumbhole cuffs version
As listed for the main project, plus 0.1m (1/8yd) extra fabric
Pompom version
As listed for the main project, plus:
- Yarn pompoms (I used Rico mini pompoms gifted by Sister Mintaka)
- Matching thread
- Hand-sewing needle
There's so much fun to be had making and embellishing your Bertha cardigan. I can't wait to see what you make! Please share with us on Instagram @TillyButtons using the hashtags #SewingBertha #MakeItSimpleBook.
*****
Author: Tilly Walnes
Make It Simple is published by Quadrille (Hardie Grant)
Model photography: © Ellie Smith
Model shoot props and styling: Clare Nicolson
Step photography: Jane Looker
Models: Paige Joanna & Phoebe Nickalls
