How to Sew a Bar Tack (+ video!)

 

Need some extra reinforcement on those high-stress points in your sewing project? You’ll spot bar tacks on our sewing patterns like the Winnie trousers, Thea trousers, Pearl cardigan, Cece joggers and Ness skirt - where they’re often used to strengthen pocket corners, zip flies, and openings. A bar tack is a short, secure zigzag stitch that helps your handmade clothes stand up to everyday wear and tear.

In this beginner-friendly tutorial, we’ll show you how to sew a bar tack using your regular sewing machine. Once you’ve got the hang of it, you’ll be adding them to all your makes!

Scroll down to watch the video tutorial.

What is a bar tack?

A bar tack is a short, dense zigzag stitch used to reinforce stress points on garments. You'll often find them at:

• The top corners of pockets
• Zip fly openings
• The edges of openings that need extra durability

Bar tacks don’t just serve a functional purpose - they also give your handmade clothes a professional-looking finish. 

Fitting the Winnie Trousers

Our Winnie trouser sewing pattern aims to blend comfort with style with a softly rounded barrel-leg shape, a flat-fronted elasticated high waistband, and optional pockets. Nailing the fit at waist, hip, and length means a polished finished result. 

In this post, we’ll guide you through how Winnie is designed to fit, how to adjust the rise and leg length, how to grade between different waist and hip sizes, and how to fine-tune the waistband fit.

How the Winnie trousers are designed to fit

• The waistband is flat‑fronted with elastic at the back for a comfy yet clean silhouette
• The barrel leg is gently rounded, the side seam towards the front, and the leg skimming the body without clinging
• The ankle-skimming hem strikes a modern balance - comfortable with flats or boots

Winnie is available in printed and layered PDF formats, with sizes UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62. Sizes 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to the other sizes to create a better fit for different proportions, with a bit more room at the waist and a deeper rise.

New Sewing Pattern! Meet the Winnie Barrel Leg Trousers

Embrace barrel-leg style with the Winnie trousers

Looking for your next wardrobe staple that’s both stylish and easy to sew? Introducing the Winnie barrel leg trouser pattern, featuring a modern barrel-leg silhouette and comfy pull-on design. Designed for confident beginners and beyond, Winnie is your wardrobe’s missing piece - ready to be worn again and again.

Available in printed and PDF formats, in sizes UK 6–34 / US 2–30 / EUR 34–62.

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

Winnie trouser pattern design details

Here’s what makes the Winnie trousers a sewing project you'll reach for over and over:

• Barrel‑leg shape that flatters with a gently rounded silhouette
• Flat‑front elastic waistband with no zips, no buttons, no fuss
• Ankle‑skimming length that transitions effortlessly through the seasons
• Optional pockets – curved front, back patch, or both!
• Jargon‑free, step‑by‑step photo instructions make sewing a breeze
• Ideal for confident beginners, or anyone craving a quick, satisfying make
  
  

GET THE WINNIE PATTERN

How to Sew an Exposed Frill Seam

Want to give your gathered seams a pretty, professional-looking finish? Try sewing an exposed frill seam – it adds a gorgeous textured detail to skirts, dresses and sleeves, and it’s much easier than it looks!

In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to sew an exposed frill seam step by step. 

We’re demonstrating the technique on the Luella skirt pattern, but you can also use it to attach a gathered skirt or sleeves to a dress, like the Indigo smock top + dress, or even the lower part of a two-piece sleeve such as the Marnie blouse + mini dress - or anywhere you want to attach a gathered piece with a neat, visible finish.

Watch the video below to see the technique in action, or scroll down for step-by-step instructions!

What you’ll need

• Your sewing project – we’re using the Luella skirt sewing pattern
• Sewing machine
• Overlocker/serger (optional)
• Thread – matching and contrast
• Pins and scissors
• Tape measure
• Iron and ironing board
  

Fitting the Luella Skirt

So you’ve picked out your dream fabric and printed your Luella skirt pattern… now let’s talk about fit!

Luella is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.

Luella is designed to be easy to wear, with a comfy elasticated waist and lots of swish from the gathered tiers – but that doesn’t mean we’re skipping the fitting step. In this post, we’ll walk you through how Luella is designed to fit, how to adjust the length, and how to tweak the fit at the waist and hips to suit your body.

Whether you’re new to fitting or a seasoned pro, we’ve got your back...

How the Luella skirt is designed to fit

Luella is all about comfort and flow, with a polished silhouette that looks great dressed up or down.

• The top tier is gently shaped to skim your hips, creating a silhouette that’s not too clingy and not too loose – just right!
• The lower tiers are gathered and swishy, adding movement and a touch of drama (yes please!).
• The waistband is elasticated, but it’s designed to sit snugly at your waist, holding the skirt in place without digging in.

New Sewing Pattern! Meet the Luella skirt

Introducing Luella – the ultimate tiered skirt sewing pattern

Looking for a swooshy, swishy skirt that’s fun to sew and easy to wear? We’ve got just the thing! Say hello to the Luella skirt sewing pattern, our 50th individual sewing pattern here at Tilly and the Buttons (can you believe it?!). Whether you're dressing for a sunny stroll, a summer party or just love a statement skirt, Luella is ready to bring drama and joy to your handmade wardrobe.

Available in printed and PDF formats, and designed for confident beginners, this tiered skirt sewing pattern is simple to sew, stylish to wear – and packed with options.

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

Luella skirt pattern design details

The Luella sewing pattern is a tiered skirt with lots of personality and just enough ruffle! Here’s what makes this skirt a must-sew:

• Two length options – midi or maxi skirt
• Hip-skimming top tier with beautifully swishy lower tiers
• Optional exposed frill seams for added flair
• Elasticated waistband – no zips or buttons required!
• In-seam pockets that stay put and don’t flap about
• Clear, beginner-friendly instructions with step-by-step photos

Luella is the perfect sewing project if you’ve made a few garments and want to grow your confidence. The gathering and tiered construction are easy to master, and the result is seriously swoon-worthy.

GET THE LUELLA PATTERN

Fitting the Samara Top Sewing Pattern

Making the Samara top sewing pattern and need a helping hand choosing your size and fitting? Then you're in the right place 😊

Samara is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.

We designed the Samara top to be suitable for beginners, which means it's not only simple to sew, but it's also relatively easy to fit too - yay! Here we'll go through some of the most common fitting adjustments you might want to make to your Samara, but it's most likely you'll only need to make one or two tweaks, if any. 

In this post, we're going to cover:

• How the Samara pattern is designed to fit
• Making a toile
• Choosing your size
• Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
• Combining pattern sizes at the bust/waist/hip
• Making adjustments for a larger bust
• Altering the neckline

Meet the Samara sewing pattern + online workshop!

Introducing the Samara sewing pattern – perfect for beginners!

Ever wished you could sew your own clothes but didn’t know where to start? Finding a beginner-friendly pattern that’s actually easy can feel overwhelming – but don’t worry, we’ve got you!

The Samara top pattern is simple, stylish, and oh-so-satisfying to sew. Whether you're brand new to sewing or just looking for a speedy wardrobe refresh, this versatile top is designed with beginners in mind.

With its relaxed fit, V-neckline, and a choice of four sleeve options and two hemlines, Samara is a wardrobe staple that will take you through every season in handmade style.

But that's not all – we've also launched a brand new online workshop Learn to Sew an Easy Top to guide you through making Samara step by step! Whether you're sewing your first ever garment or brushing up your skills, this course is perfect for building confidence and creating clothes you’ll be proud to wear.

GET THE SAMARA SEWING PATTERN

Let's take a closer look at Samara...

Full Bust Adjustment on a Dartless Bodice

Are you struggling with clothes that are tight across the bust and have excess fabric pooling above? If so, a full bust adjustment (FBA) might be the solution to get the perfect fit when making your own clothes.

In this guide, we’ll show you how to do a full bust adjustment on a dartless bodice - no darts necessary! Whether you're working with patterns like our Samara top, Alexa jumpsuit, Stevie tunic, Bettine dress, Suki dress or Safiya wrap playsuit, these simple adjustments will ensure your handmade clothes fit perfectly.

We've previously covered how to do a bust adjustment for a darted bodice which is definitely worth checking out too.

If you’re new to fitting adjustments, don’t worry - it’s easier than it sounds! Just follow the steps below, and you’ll soon be creating clothes that fit like a dream.

When should you do a full bust adjustment?

Generally speaking, dartless garments are less fitted as they don't have darts which would ordinarily be used to add shaping. Because of this, you might be able to get away with not doing a full bust adjustment on these types of garments, even if you normally do them on other patterns, as there's a bit more leeway in the bust area than on a more fitted garment.

But if your boobs are on the larger side and you usually find that even easy-fitting garments are either too tight in the bust area, or fit across the bust but have a lot of excess fabric pooling above, then you probably need to make a full bust adjustment.

I'm going to briefly cover how you would work out how much to add or subtract from your bust in the adjustment, but do remember this is just a rough framework, and you might not need to do it at all.

How to make jersey yarn

Making your own jersey yarn is so quick and easy! This is a great trick to know if you’re making a sewing pattern that features a drawstring – such as the waistband of the Cece joggers or sweat shorts, the hood of the Stella hoodie in my book Stretch, the Jaimie pyjama bottoms, Tabitha T shirt dress in my book Make It Simple... and more!

Read on for what you need to make your own jersey yarn and how to make it – with video tutorial.

Fitting the Cece joggers + shorts

Are you planning to make the Cece joggers or shorts and have some questions on fitting? Then look no further as this post is for you!

Cece is available in printed and PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34 / 84-155cm (33-61in) hip.

I'm happy to report that the Cece joggers and shorts are designed to have a relaxed fit, so you might find you only need to make a couple of adjustments, or perhaps none at all! 

In this blog post, we'll cover:

• Making a toile
• Choosing your size
• Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
• How to combine pattern sizes
• Other common trouser fitting adjustments 

NEW PATTERN! Meet the Cece joggers + shorts

Are you ready to step into your cosy era? Let us introduce the Cece joggers + shorts sewing pattern!

Cece (pronounced see-see) is cute, cosy, and super comfy – whether you’re working out, working from home, or chilling out! Be warned, once you've put your Ceces on, you'll never want to take them off.

Read on to find out all about Cece...