14 May 2013

Pattern Hack! Gathered Mathilde Blouse


Want to avoid sewing the tucks on the Mathilde Blouse? I'm going to show you how to create a lovely, loose-fitting smock version by gathering the excess fabric at the top where the tucks would usually be and leaving the bottom loose. Super simple stylee!


1) Follow the Mathilde Blouse instructions past stay stitching the neckline. Skip over the tucks step and stitch the bust darts.


2) Thread your sewing machine in a contrast colour thread - this will make it easier to identify and rip out the gather stitches later. Set the stitch length to 4mm.


3) On the top edge of the front bodice, sew three parallel rows of stitches about 5mm - 7mm apart. Try to avoid the 15mm (5/8in) seam line as this is where you'll be sewing your "real" stitches later. Leave a few inches of loose thread at the start and end of each row. These are your gather stitches.


4) Gently pull on the top threads and use your fingers to distribute the resulting gathers evenly across the seam. You want to gather it so the top edge of the bodice becomes the same width as the bottom edge of the yoke.


5) Pin the top of the front bodice to the bottom of the yoke, right sides together.


6) Tack (baste) the pieces together, with about 10mm (3/8in) seam allowance. Use your fingers to keep the gathers even while you're stitching. Check the gathering is nice and even - you can unpick the tacking stitches and try again if it's not.


7) Once you're happy with the gathering, thread your machine in matching thread and set the stitch length to normal (2 - 2.5mm). Stitch the bodice to the yoke for real.


8) Remove the tacking and gather stitches. Finish the seam using zigzag stitch or an overlocker/serger. When it comes to pressing, be careful not to press over the gathers or you could lose the fullness (erm... as I kinda did here - doh!).


Ta da! A pretty gathered smock version of the Mathilde blouse.

Liberty Tana Lawn fabric courtesy of Sewbox.

31 comments:

  1. Gorgeous. And I love the fabric. But I'm also intrigued by your pins. They look super long and super fine...my Holy Grail of pins. Can you share the details? Pretty please.

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  2. Best regards from Poland!
    I like sewing too, it is my hobby:
    http://www.projektsukienka.com/
    :)
    Aneta

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  3. Türkiye den,selamlar sevgiler..paylaşımlarınızın hayranıyım...daha detaylı açıklama yaparsanız sevinirim..teşekkürler arkadaşım..

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  4. Very cute! I can't believe I haven't yet tried the Mathilde blouse. Once the summer dresses are stitched up I'll be coming for a download of the pattern. xx

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  5. Very pretty! This is an ideal version for patterned fabrics I think, as sometimes the tucks seem to get lost in a pattern.

    Love the pins - I have those too, they are amazing!

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  6. Love this fabric with this pattern... Now I want one!

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  7. Ooh, this looks totally pretty, too. The gathers and the fabric are a perfect match!!
    I am still wondering about leaving the tucks out altogether - do you think it works to simply substract the total width of the tucks from the centre front?
    Constance

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  8. This is so nice! I love the fabric...

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  9. That fabric is gorgeous!! I agree with Sam, in that this is perfect for beautiful printed fabrics. :) Thanks so much for the tip! Once I'm done with my current projects I'm soooo ordering this blouse. I don't think I could make the summer without it!! Perfect for shorts and flip-flop type outings.

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  10. Love it, particularly the fabric choice.

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  11. What a brilliant pattern hack, thanks for sharing this Tilly...I love the result!

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  12. I need this blouse for the summer and was a bit 'scared' of getting the pleats in a straight line so this mod is perfect. Thanks Jo x

    http://joeveryday19.blogspot.co.uk/

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  13. Brilliant. Loves this adapted version (as well as the tucked one too!). Will def try. Thank you for sharing. Niamh x

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  14. Oh my gosh I have the same sewing machine as you! :)

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  15. Tilly this is gorgeous, I just love it! I have the pattern and think this will help a newcomer like me. A great post as always Tilly, you are a natural teacher.
    Thank you
    Dorothy
    :-)xxxx

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  16. Hi Tilly, lovely way to make your blouse. A hint when gathering; find the half way and quarter ways on the gathering piece and the to gather to piece, and mark them with pins. Pull up the gathering threads and match the pins - it's easier to distribute the gathers in the smaller sections. Cheers, Meredithe

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  17. I love those pins! they look so elegant for something so pointy! I was thinking about making a dress from this pattern, and maybe putting some ruffled lace under the yoke or either side of the pleats... so many ideas!

    www.sewingthe60s.blogspot.com.au

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  18. I like this gathering idea, I may even have a go at actually making the blouse. Though as it has been years since I last made an item of clothing I think I better start with something simpler. Probably the tunic from the GBSB book.
    Gorgeous fabric, though I have yet to find a Liberty Tana Lawn fabric I don't like!
    Happy sewing.

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  19. Is there any way of seeing a picture of the finished blouse in full or finished on a person! I love creating but am utterly woeful at visualising something! Many thanks! Fee

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  20. It's gorgeous! I love the fabric - perfect for summer! I can't decide which style I like best.
    :-)
    Carly
    x

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  21. Wow, you are so great Tilly. Thanks for the fab instructions!

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  22. I love your black pins - where did you get those? :D
    And what a lovely idea! I think that I would look rather big in a loose gathered blouse like that. I have tried it. But it is a wonderful idea none the less.
    I love when there are more than one possibility with a pattern.

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  23. I would snip a tiny notch at the centre front of the garment and the centre front of the yoke. Match these points after gathering; this will help keep the gathers even on each side.

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  24. Wow, a comment from Ann! And I love that tip...why didn't I think of that? Thanks Tilly and Ann!!!

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  25. It's so pretty - I bumped into someone learning to sew with your Mathilde pattern last night. I'll have to point her in the direction of this post!

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  26. Great tutorial--love the very clear photos!

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  27. brilliant i am always up for time saving ideas

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  28. yes I'd like to see it on a person too - a bit worried about the maternity factor of a fully gathered blouse. Would it work ok if you only gathered the section that was originally tucked, and left it flat in the centre?

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  29. Just bought some delicious fabrics with this blouse in mind. Perfect for our non-summer! Can't wait to start!

    Oh, I also have a crafty blog:
    www.bigtreelittlemoose.blogspot.com

    I'll be sure to blog and link my project!

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