6 June 2018

Free Hip Pockets Pattern for the Mila Dungarees!

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

What's better than three pockets on your Mila dungarees? FIVE pockets on your Mila dungarees!

You asked for more pockets, so we've created a free downloadable pattern for a hip patch pocket that you can add to your Milas, plus instructions below for how to sew it. The pockets make a simple addition and are large enough to slip your phone, snacks or idle hands into. You are welcome :)



How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons
How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons


Get your Mila dungarees pattern
if you don't already have it

If your fabric is 150cm (60in) wide, you’ll need 0.25m (3/8yd) extra for the pockets. If it’s more like 115cm (45in) wide, you’ll need 0.35m (1/2yd) extra fabric.

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

Click the arrow top right of the new window to download the PDF. Find it in your downloads folder (or desktop - wherever your downloaded files usually go), and open the pattern in Adobe Reader (you can download it for free).

Select "poster" if it's not centred in the preview window, and check the scale is 100% or "actual size". Print page 1 first and measure the test square to check it’s exactly 60mm - if it’s not, have another go in your print settings to print it full size. Print the rest of the pages - the pocket pattern prints on 3 sheets of A4 or Letter paper. Then you can cut off the borders and stick it together – read more about printing and assembling digital sewing patterns.

Sew your Mila dungarees until the end of step 18, which explains how to add a bar tack, stopping before the step that begins, “Pin the legs together along the inside leg seams...”

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

Cut two pocket pieces in your fabric. The top half of the pockets will go on the outside and the bottom half will become the facing - the grainline is slightly different on the bottom half once they're folded so you might want to add a small marking to the top so you remember which way up they go.

We’re going to stabilise the diagonal pocket openings so they don’t droop. Cut two strips of knit interfacing, 2cm (3/4in) wide by 20cm (8in) long, then trim them down to fit the edge of the pocket openings. Align one long raw edge of each strip with the top diagonal pocket openings, the glue side of the interfacing against the wrong side of the fabric, and press with a hot, dry iron to fuse them in place. (You don’t need to interface the other diagonal edge on each pocket.)

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

Fold each pocket in half widthways, right sides together, and press the fold. Pin together the diagonal pocket openings, matching notches, and stitch. Trim the seam allowances, the interfaced one slightly more than the other if your fabric is on the thicker side.

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

Press the seam allowances open and then press them to one side so that the interfacing is covered. Holding the fabric taut away from the seam line, understitch the seam allowances to the pocket close to the seam line. Start at the outside leg seam and finish 2cm (5/8in) from the bottom waistband seam.

Take care not to catch the other side of the pocket in the stitching – you may find it helpful to start at one end, sew as far as you can go, then turn the project around and sew from the other end, overlapping the stitches where they meet to secure them in place.

Make sure the two pocket pieces look symmetrical (not identical) to each other when you understitch them, so the understitching ends up on the inside of each pocket on both left and right legs.

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

Pin each pocket together along the outside leg seam and inside edge, right sides together, matching notches. Stitch. Trim the seam allowances, trimming one more than the other to reduce bulk. Snip diagonally across the seam allowance corners, without cutting through the stitching.

Turn the pocket right side out through the opening at the waistband seam. It’s a small opening, so if your fabric is particularly thick you may need to open up the seam slightly to create a bit more space to turn it out.

Use a pin or point turner to pull out the corners. Press the pocket to neaten up the seams and fold, rolling the seam line slightly towards the understitching so it won’t be visible from the right side of your dungarees.

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

Lay the side of each pocket with the understitching against the right side of the front legs, lining up the bottom waistband seams and outside legs. Pin in place. Edgestitch around the sides and bottom edges, 3mm (1/8in) from the edges, leaving the diagonal pocket opening unstitched. Tack (baste) the top of each pocket to the bottom waistband seam on the front leg, 10mm (3/8in) from the raw edge.

Continue to sew the dungarees together from step 19 in the instructions (starting, “Pin the legs together along the inside leg seams...”), joining the inside legs, crotch seam and attaching the waistband.

How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons
How to add hip pockets to your Mila dungarees! - Tilly and the Buttons

And that's it! I hope you enjoy your new dungarees :)

PS. If you're into pockets (who isn't?!), you may also like How to add in-seam pockets to a garment.

*****
Fashion photos - Jane Looker
Step photos - Vanessa Allen
Model - Zeena Shah
Hair and make up - Laura Anne

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