27 June 2019

Nikki's 70s-tastic Jessa trousers

Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons


On 1st January of this year, I scribbled in my notepad that I wanted to make a pair of trousers that fit me really well, and I'm happy to report I can tick that sewing resolution (sewlution?) off my list with my mid-blue denim Jessas jeans. Yay!

As soon as Tilly showed me her sketch of Jessa in the early stages of production, I was in complete love. I am a sucker for anything high-waisted with a 70s vibe. I also love big pockets. And asymmetric waistbands... I mean it's probably quicker to say what I don't love about Jessa (spoiler: nothing). I've been after a pair of gently flared trousers for ages and I'm thrilled that I now have the perfect pair.

Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons
Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons

The beauty of Jessa is she is so versatile that you can make her in all manner of different medium-weight fabrics (Louise has written an amazing inspo post if you need some ideas!). However, I knew that I wanted my first pair to be a classic, mid-blue denim, with added gold topstitching on the pockets and zip fly. I took a jeans-making top tip from Jenny and used Gutermann upholstery thread for the topstitching and I found it very easy to sew with, as it's a bit thinner than regular topstitching thread. I got my denim from Guthrie & Ghani - it has a little bit of stretch in it, making them extra comfortable.

Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons

To ensure a good fit, I cut the size that best matched my hip measurements and then tacked the side and inside leg seams together before trying them on. As I have proportionally larger hips to my waist, these were rather large on me round the middle, so I kept taking them in at the side seams until I was happy with the fit. This involved a few trips between the sewing machine and the mirror but it was totally worth it.

Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons
Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons

Once I was happy with the fit, I sewed the legs with a regular stitch length and took the waistband side seams in until they matched the trouser waistline. Hey presto, I had a lovely fitting pair of trousers on my hands! I would definitely recommend doing this and tacking the side seams as unpicking tiny little stitches with the seam ripper is boring and quite frankly I have better things to do with my time :)

I was so pleased with my Jessa trousers that I also made a pair of gingham denim shorts for my holiday to Lisbon. They were ideal for exploring the city all day and were the perfect length - not too long and not too short. I'm already planning a corduroy pair of trousers for autumn and another pair of shorts for this summer. It's safe to say I am addicted!

Nikki's Jessa Jeans Trousers - Tilly and the Buttons

*****
Photos: Jane Looker
Sewing pattern: Jessa trousers and shorts
Fabric: bought from Guthrie & Ghani