I have been positively itching to share all the deets about the sewing patterns in my new book Make It Simple - and with the book now officially published and out in the world, I finally can - woohoo!
The book features six main patterns, each with four variations. The subtitle of the book is Easy, Speedy Sewing Projects to Stitch up in an Afternoon, so you can rest assured that all the patterns all quick and simple to make. The patterns come in ten sizes, from UK 6-24 / US 2-20. They're included in the back of the book ready to trace off, or there's a link in the book to where to download them, as either A4/Letter or A0 files, if you prefer to print them at home or at a copyshop.
Today I'm going to introduce you to the first pattern in the book, the Safiya trousers, which you can also make as dungarees, a playsuit or jumpsuit using the variations and extra pattern pieces provided in the book. The variations are great for if you have some more time and want to maximise the use of the pattern - you can make it again and again in completely different styles.
Let's start with the trousers. Safiya has culotte-style wide legs which are cropped to just above the ankle - and easy to lengthen or shorten to create your preferred length. They are cinched at the waist with elastic, with a clever flat-fronted construction that creates a flattering look for those of you who don't like fabric ruched up around your tum.
These are the kind of casual, comfy trousers you can throw on with a t shirt and plimsolls at the weekend. Or how about whipping up a pair in luxe stretch velvet to pair with a Freya turtleneck for work or with a silky camisole for a party?
I have estimated that the Safiya trousers take around 20 minutes to cut and 1 hour 15 minutes to sew. Wait - whaaaat?! Why so speedy? These trousers are made from just two pattern pieces, they are easy-fitting (yessss) and have no zips or buttonholes. They are seriously easy to make, even for a beginner.
Providing approximate timings is something that I wanted to include in the book, kinda like what you get in a recipe book, so you can get an idea of how long it's going to take before you begin. I worked out the timings by averaging the time it took for each pattern tester to cut and sew the project, then added a little extra for luck. Please don't see it as a race though, or feel disheartened if your creative process takes longer than this - just take it as a rough guide :)
If you have a bit more time, how about adding pockets to your Safiya trousers? I've included an extra pattern piece in the book along with instructions showing you how to insert them into the side seams.
You can also add the pockets to the dungarees (see below) - but not the playsuit version as they'd peep out below the hem.
The second variation is to make these lovely, loose-fitting dungarees. This style is all over the streets of London. They are soooooo comfy - I lived in them while I was writing the book!
They are more involved to make than the trousers as they have bust darts on the front bodice, a facing finishing the neckline and a narrow tie belt to create definition at the waist. They can still be whipped up in an afternoon though - I'd estimate 3 hours from cutting to finishing.
For a completely different look, try the Safiya wrap playsuit! The wrap-style bodice has elegant grown-on sleeves and tap-style, ever-so-slightly-flared shorts. You can slip into it with no fastenings.
As with the dungarees, I expect this will take roughly 3 hours total to cut and sew.
This is such a great summery outfit that you can dress up or down depending on what shoes and accessories you pair it with. I've also made a black floral version that I layer over opaque tights in the cooler months - it looks so cute.
You could also easily make a gorgeous jumpsuit by pairing the wrap bodice from the playsuit with the full length trousers. Or use the shorts legs to create little beach shorts to wear over your swimsuit this summer (pompom trim, anyone?). There are plenty more suggestions for hacks and embellishments provided at the end of the chapter - I'd love to hear your ideas too!
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
Light- to medium-weight drapey fabrics such as lightweight linen, chambray, lyocell (Tencel), viscose (rayon), crêpe, plissé, stretch velvet or viscose jersey.
HOW MUCH FABRIC DO I NEED?
If you're out and about fabric shopping and forgot to check how much fabric you needed before you left the house, we've got your back! Here's what you'll need:
Trousers version
Sizes 1–4 (UK 6-12 / US 2-8):
1.9m (2 1/8yd) fabric, 150cm (60in) wide
or 2.1m (2 3/8yd) fabric, 115cm (45in) wide
Sizes 5–10 (UK 14-24 / US 10-20):
2.1m (2 3/8yd) fabric, 150cm (60in) wide
or 2.2m (2 1/2yd) fabric, 115cm (45in) wide
Plus:
- Matching thread
- 25mm- (1in-) wide elastic – the exact measurement for each size is in the book, but as a guide get 0.5m (20in) for sizes 1-3 or 0.75m (30in) for sizes 4-10
- 2 large safety pins
Pockets
As listed for the trousers or dungarees, plus:
- 0.5m (5/8yd) extra fabric (a great way to use up your scraps!)
- 20mm (¾in) strip of interfacing (if using drapey jersey fabric, to prevent drooping)
Dungarees
If your fabric is around 150cm (60in) wide:
Sizes 1–4 (UK 6-12 / US 2-8): 2.3m (2 ½yd) fabric
Sizes 5–10 (UK 14-24 / US 10-20): 2.6m (2 7/8yd) fabric
If your fabric is around 115cm (45in) wide:
Sizes 1–3 (UK 6-10 / US 2-6): 2.5m (2 3/4yd) fabric
Sizes 4–10 (UK 12-24 / US 8-20): 3m (3 3/8yd) fabric
Plus:
- Matching thread
- 0.3m (3/8yd) interfacing
- Hand-sewing needle
Wrap playsuit
If your fabric is around 150cm (60in) wide:
Sizes 1–4 (UK 6-12 / US 2-8): 1.8m (2yd) fabric
Sizes 5–10 (UK 14-24 / US 10-20): 2.3m (2 ½yd) fabric
If your fabric is around 115cm (45in) wide:
Sizes 1–3 (UK 6-10 / US 2-6): 2.1m (2 3/8yd) fabric
Sizes 4–10 (UK 12-24 / US 8-20): 2.9m (3¼yd) fabric
Plus:
- Matching thread
- 0.6m (5/8yd) interfacing
- 25mm- (1in-) wide elastic – the exact measurement for each size is in the book, but as a guide get 0.5m (20in) for sizes 1-5 or 0.7m (27in) for sizes 6-10
- 2 large safety pins
- Optional: Hidden sew-on snap (if you're worried about any neckline gaping)
The pattern pieces for all these versions of Safiya are included in the back of Make It Simple, ready to trace off - or you can download them to print at home or a copyshop (see the introductory section of the book for details).
We can't wait to see your Safiyas! Please share with us on Instagram @TillyButtons using the hashtags #SewingSafiya #MakeItSimpleBook so we can find your pics :)
*****
Author: Tilly Walnes
Make It Simple is published by Quadrille (Hardie Grant)
Model photography: © Ellie Smith
Model shoot props and styling: Clare Nicolson
Step photography: Jane Looker
Models: Samantha Waude, Karen Arthur, Kristabel Plummer
Lavender linen fabric gifted by Sister Mintaka
