Want to give your gathered seams a pretty, professional-looking finish? Try sewing an exposed frill seam – it adds a gorgeous textured detail to skirts, dresses and sleeves, and it’s much easier than it looks!
In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to sew an exposed frill seam step by step.
We’re demonstrating the technique on the Luella skirt pattern, but you can also use it to attach a gathered skirt or sleeves to a dress, like the Indigo smock top + dress, or even the lower part of a two-piece sleeve such as the Marnie blouse + mini dress - or anywhere you want to attach a gathered piece with a neat, visible finish.
Watch the video below to see the technique in action, or scroll down for step-by-step instructions!
What you’ll need
- Your sewing project – we’re using the Luella skirt sewing pattern
- Sewing machine
- Overlocker/serger (optional)
- Thread – matching and contrast
- Pins and scissors
- Tape measure
- Iron and ironing board
Step 1: Prep the pieces
(1) We're going to start by hemming the top edge of the piece that will have the gathered exposed frill - for Luella, this is the lower skirt tier; for Indigo, this is the skirt. Press the raw edge under by 5mm (¼in) to the wrong side, then press it under by another 5mm (¼in). Pin in place.
Using a straight stitch, sew close to the inner fold to secure the hem in place.
(2) Next, finish the raw edge of the piece you’ll attach the gathered frill to - for Luella, this is the lower edge of the upper skirt tier; for Indigo, this is the lower edge of the bodice. You can use an overlocker (serger) or zigzag stitch – just make sure not to trim the seam.
Using a long (4-5mm) straight stitch and contrast colour thread, tack (baste) a line 25mm (1in) above the finished edge. This will be your guideline for positioning the gathered piece later.
Step 2: Prep the gather stitches
Still using a contrast thread and long stitch length, and this time with a low thread tension, sew three parallel rows of gather stitches along the top edge of your hemmed frill, between one side seam and the other. Leave long thread tails at each end – and don’t back tack! Sewing the gathers at the following distances from the top will avoid the seam line and thus make them easier to unpick later:
- 7mm (¼in)
- 12mm (½in)
- 18mm (¾in)
Step 3: Pin the layers together
Fold both pieces in half lengthways to find the centre front and back, and mark with pins at the hemmed and finished edges. This will help to distribute the gathers evenly.
With both pieces right sides out, slip the piece with the tacked guideline inside the gathered piece, so the hemmed edge of the frill sits along the tacking line. Pin them together at the centre pins and side seams. You should only be pinning two layers together – not four.
Step 4: Gather and pin
Starting at one end of gather stitches, gently pull on the top three threads to gather up the fabric. Smoosh them along with your fingers, until the pieces are the same length between each set of pins (side seam to centre, etc). Spread the gathers with your fingers so they're evenly distributed, then pin the two layers together using plenty of pins at right angles to the edge.
Repeat for all four quarters.
Step 5: Sew the exposed seam
Carefully turn your garment wrong sides out. Place it on your sewing machine so you’re sewing inside the loop, with the gathers facing up – this helps you keep control and avoid catching the other half of the garment.
Using matching thread and a regular stitch length, topstitch 15mm (⅝in) from the hemmed edge of the gathered piece. You won't be able to see the seam allowance guide, so you can use a tape measure to check you're sewing at the correct distance initially, then keep the hemmed edge at the same distance from the edge of the presser foot. Take your time, pausing with the needle down when you need to so you can even out the gathers with your fingers.
Pull out your tacking and gathering stitches, and admire your beautiful exposed frill seam!
Ready to try it?
Now you know how to sew an exposed frill seam, why not give it a go on your next project? It’s a great way to level up your makes and show off your sewing skills – even if you’re still a beginner! Grab the Luella skirt or Indigo smock + dress pattern to try it out today.
Happy sewing!
