How to Sew a Secure Seam Opening (with video!)

You probably know how to sew a seam without leaving any holes... But what if you do want to leave a hole - a hole with a purpose?

If you're making a wrap-style garment, such as the Pearl cardigan sewing pattern, you'll need to leave an opening in the side of the hem band for the tie to go through. I'm going to show you how to do this in a way that makes the opening both strong and tidy.

You can use this method on other projects too where there is a facing or double layer of fabric around a seam opening. It's a very similar set of steps if you want to create thumbholes in your cuffs, for example.

It's one of those techniques that may cause a bit of head-scratching the first time you do it, but just keep in mind what we're trying to achieve, which is to join together the seam allowances that go around the opening, on the inside, so they're not left loose. We've made you a video which we hope will make understanding the process easier...

Five Ways to Fix a Gaping Neckline

Have you ever sewn a garment only to try it on and find the neckline is sitting away from your body? Fear not, I'm going to share with you my five top tips on how to fix a gaping neckline on a variety of garment styles, including high, deep and wrap necklines, on both knit and woven fabrics. 

1. Stabilise those seams! (woven or knit fabrics)

If you thought that stabilisers were just for kids' bikes, then think again! Ok fine, you don't have to add actual wheels to your neckline, but stabilising a neckline seam can help prevent it from stretching out both from sewing and wear. This is a particularly good idea if you're making something with a bias-cut (diagonal) neckline, such as the Alexa jumpsuit or Pearl cardigan.

For a woven fabric, try stay tape or twill tape, a flat woven ribbon that you can buy in different widths. Stitch it to the neckline within the seam allowance, close to where the stitching line will be. 

For knits or woven fabrics, a great option is iron-on seam tape, AKA my new best sewing pal. It has a slight stretch to it, making it super easy to apply to curves and, as it's fusible, you don't need to sew a single stitch - just press it in place, again, within the seam allowance and close to the stitching line. 

If you don't have these to hand, cut iron-on interfacing into narrow strips and use it the same way. This is a perfect way to use up interfacing scraps that you've been hoarding.

2. Fabric recovery is your friend (knit fabrics)

All knit fabrics stretch to some extent - this is of course why we love wearing them and what they are designed to do. But some will stretch whilst you wear them and continue to stretch as the day goes on without snapping back to their original size.

A fabric with good "recovery" returns to its original state after stretching, without becoming baggy or distorted. Using a fabric with a good recovery is especially important when making something with a neckline that you want to keep the same shape and size, such as the wrap neckline on the Pearl cardigan or the scoop neckline on the Agnes top, as it will help it keep its shape.

To check if a knit fabric has a good recovery, cut a swatch and measure it. Pull the fabric lengthways and widthways a few times, then set it down and measure it again. If it easily pings back to the same size, then this indicates it has a good recovery - yay! If your swatch is left slightly bigger post stretching, it indicates that the fabric doesn't have a good recovery and will most likely be more prone to growing with wear.

3. Consider shortening the neckband (knit fabrics)

Sew your Own Knickers With Our Iris Kits

You asked, we delivered! The much anticipated Tilly and the Buttons x Evie La Lùve Iris knickers kits are here. They include everything you need to sew yourself a gorgeous pair of Iris knickers, even down to the matching thread and satin ribbon for your bows.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT IRIS HERE

Wanna see these gorgeous supplies in action? Watch our Iris unboxing video below:

When it comes to picking your kit we have a range of options depending on your needs. If you already own the Iris knickers sewing pattern - no problem! You can just pick up the lovely supplies kit without the pattern, which is also the perfect option for those who fancy taking a deep dive into knicker sewing with our Learn to Sew Knickers online workshop, taught by Hannah of Evie La Lùve.

Choose from TWO different Iris knicker kits featuring our signature Tilly and the Buttons x Craft Cotton Co organic cotton jersey fabric - rainbow Breton stripe or wide lilac & white stripe.

Incredibly versatile, the mix and match sewing pattern includes a choice of low, midi and high legs and waistlines. They can be finished with either fold over elastic and/or narrow stretch lace, depending on your style, making a total of 36 possible combinations! With one of the Iris knicker kits, you'll be able to make at least one pair of knickers in any size.

Inspiration and Fabric Picks for Pearl!

We hope you're loving our Pearl wrap cardigan sewing pattern as much as Team Buttons have been! It's Abi here with your latest dose of sewing inspiration and with all of us making a variety of versions over the past month, we've got loads of Pearl inspo and fabric picks for you - yay!

MEET THE PEARL CARDIGAN!

The choice of fabric really informs the silhouette, so you can have a lot of fun here! If you want to show off the balloon sleeves, a knit with slightly more structure such as French Terry, interlock or jacquard knit will do the job nicely, whereas a drapier fabric will result in a softer look.

Pearl is perfect for medium-weight, drapey knit fabrics with at least 20% stretch. Look out for Hacci knit, sweater knit, jacquard knit, stretch velvet, ponte, interlock, lighter weight French terry. 

ORDER PEARL HERE

If you want to pick a chunkier fabric for Pearl (like some of the heavier knits in this blog post), you may want to select a stretchier material such as ribbing for the neckband, hem band and cuffs. It's a good idea to pick a fabric with good recovery for the neckband, hem band and cuffs, in other words, a fabric that pings back down to size easily after stretching, to avoid these pieces getting stretched out during sewing or becoming loose with wear.

Now let's get some inspiration!

Super Soft

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5

Ideal for your softest and most snuggly fabrics, lean into the ballet cardigan vibes with cashmere or fluffy knit fabric. You'll be stroking your arms all day with one of these options!

1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6