How to do a full bum adjustment on a skirt with darts

Do you find that ready-to-wear skirts tend to feel tight around your bum, and that the waistband dips down at the back instead of sitting level all the way around? Or maybe the skirt hem lifts at the back, you have excess fabric pooling at your lower back, and the side seams point diagonally towards the back rather than straight down to the floor? If you're vigorously nodding your head then you might benefit from doing a full bum adjustment on your me-made skirts!

A full bum adjustment adds width and length to the hip area of the back skirt to accommodate a fuller booty. It's a great adjustment to know if you often find you need a little bit more room across your bum, but the skirt fits comfortably on your waist.

I'm demonstrating on the Ramona skirt pattern. You can also use this adjustment on any similar darted skirt pattern.

For this tutorial you’ll need a very quick toile of your skirt, a flexible tape measure, your back skirt pattern piece (trace this off so you're not chopping up your original pattern), a pen or pencil, a ruler, some scissors, some tape or a glue stick, and a bit of paper slightly bigger than your pattern piece. 

So, once you’ve got those handy, let’s get started!

NEW PATTERN! Meet the Ramona skirt

Are you ready to add a new staple to your handmade wardrobe? Let us introduce the Ramona skirt sewing pattern!

Ramona is a a sleek and chic pencil or mini skirt with dreamy details, and the perfect project to kick-start your autumn sew-jo. With two hemline lengths, skill-building techniques, and a wide range of suitable fabrics to choose from, this is a pattern you won't be able to get enough of.

Read on to find out all about Ramona...

GET THE RAMONA PATTERN

THE PATTERN DESIGN

Are you someone who loves sleek lines, subtle details, and minimalist style? Then Ramona is going to be right up your street. Pair the knee-length version with a crisp blouse for work, or throw on the mini with a casual tee and sneakers for the weekend. Whether you dress it up or down, Ramona is going to be a staple in your wardrobe.

And don't let the invisible zip put you off! We'll show you how to get it looking nice and neat with our award-winning step-by-step instructions and free video tutorial.

• Choice of mini-length or knee-length hem with back slit
• Invisible zip closure at the side
• Four waist darts, centre back seam and gently curved waistband for a great fit 
• Choice of casual patch pockets or 60s-inspired faux pocket flaps with optional buttons
• Optional lining pattern with full instructions included

GET THE RAMONA PATTERN

SIZING AND FORMATS

The Ramona pattern includes 15 sizes - UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62.

Sizes UK 6-16 and 18-34 are drafted and graded for a different set of proportions to get a better fit. Sizes 18-34 include slightly more room at the waist and hips, and a bit more space for a fuller booty.

The pattern is available in both printed and PDF format.

Order the printed sewing pattern and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use again and again without it tearing or scrunching up.

Order the PDF and you'll get an email straight after purchase with a file to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. The Ramona PDF pattern includes layered sizes too, so you can print just the sizes you want - yay!

FABRIC + SUPPPLIES

Ramona is designed for medium- to heavy-weight woven fabrics that hold their shape, such as corduroy, denim, drill, jacquard, tweed, or wool suiting.

If you're going to line your Ramona skirt, we suggest using slippery lining fabric such as cupro (Bemberg), viscose (rayon), acetate or polyester lining.

You'll also need:

• Matching thread
• 0.3m (1/3yd) x 110cm (1 1/4yd) wide iron-on interfacing (similar weight to your fabric)
• 22cm (9in) invisible zip
• Optional: 2 x 15-20mm (5/8-3/4in) wide buttons for faux flap version
• Sewing machine and basic tools, including an invisible zip foot and a regular or adjustable zip foot

For the full fabric requirements, take a look at the Ramona page on our online shop.

TIPS + TUTORIALS

Ramona is a sewing pattern aimed at "confident beginners" - perfect if you're already comfortable with your sewing machine and ready to start adding some new sewing skills to your repertoire.

The trickiest bit is sewing the invisible zip, but we have a full video tutorial to guide you through this! You will be supported all the way with our clear instructions, and if there are any techniques you aren't sure about, you'll find lots of extra help on our Ramona pattern support page.

And if you've never lined a garment before, Ramona is the perfect place to start. We specifically designed the lining to be simple and speedy to sew, and you'll be so chuffed to see your skirt looking just as beautiful on the inside as it does on the outside.

We can't wait to see what you make with the Ramona skirt pattern! And don't forget to share your progress shots and finished makes with us over on Insta by tagging us @TillyButtons and using the hashtag #SewingRamona so we can find them. Happy sewing!

*****

Fabrics: Hot pink cotton bouclé; Mint 11 wale corduroy; Floral jacquard matelassé

Models: Sinead Dekker and Lynne Mcleod

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Laura Anne at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young

Fitting the Nell Blouse + Dress

Ready to make our new Nell blouse + dress pattern and want to know how to get a great fit? Well, you're in the right place!

Nell is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.

Nell is designed to be loose-ish fitting, with bust darts to give some shaping to the bodice, quite a bit of ease at the waist, and a swishy, gathered skirt. All of this means that the pattern is pretty simple to fit, and so you might find you only need to make a couple of adjustments, or perhaps none at all!

In this post, we're going to cover:

• Making a toile 
• Choosing your size
• Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces 
• How to combine pattern sizes 
• How to do bust adjustments for a bust darted bodice 
• How to do wide and narrow shoulder adjustments

NEW NELL SEWING PATTERN + ONLINE WORKSHOP!

Are you ready to meet your new favourite sewing pattern? Introducing the Nell blouse + dress pattern, a mix 'n' match design that has so many views you could literally wear it all summer long! 

But wait, that's not all! We’ve also created a brand new online workshop to accompany the pattern – Learn to Sew a Button-Front Dress or Blouse. The course covers a whole load of garment-sewing essentials, so it's perfect for budding sewists, or anyone in need of a refresher. 

With so much to tell you about Nell, we'd better get going...

How to Sew Welt Pockets

Welt pockets look neat, chic and impressive - as well as being functional, of course! They have a reputation for being a bit tricky to sew, but take your time and you will be amazed at the finished result. 

Welt pockets are an optional feature on the Tilly and the Buttons Thea trousers sewing pattern. The pattern instructions take you through each step with annotated photos. As we know some of you prefer to see sewing in motion, we've created a video to show you the process of making the welt pockets too.

What are welt pockets?

Welt pockets (sometimes known as "jetted pockets") are sleek internal pockets created by cutting though the fabric of a garment. You often see them on tailored trousers, skirts, jackets or coats. 

How do you sew a welt pocket?

Watch our step-by-step video tutorial on how to sew a welt pocket.

Remember, we are demonstrating on the Thea trousers pattern - if you're using a different pattern, the piece names and markings may be a bit different, but you should be able to use the same technique.

Fitting the Thea trousers

Are you planning on making the Thea trousers and want some extra help on how to get a great fit? Then look no further as this post is for you.

Thea is a pair of high waisted, wide leg trousers with a choice of two lengths and multiple pocket variations. As we're all different shapes and sizes, there are various adjustments we can do to improve the fit of our me-mades. In this blog post we're going to cover the most common adjustments you may want to consider making to your Thea trousers, but bear in mind you probably won't need to do all of them, or even any at all!

In this post we're going to cover: 

• Making a toile 
• Choosing your size 
• Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces 
• How to combine pattern sizes 
• Other common trouser fitting adjustments

How to Use Layered PDF Sewing Patterns

We have recently started adding layered sizes to our PDF sewing patterns - hooray! This has been a regularly requested feature from the PDF pattern aficionados amongst you - thank you for your patience while we changed our processes to allow this feature. The Thea trousers is our first sewing pattern with layers, and future patterns - including those in our forthcoming book Mini Makes - will also feature layered sizes.

If you're new to using layered PDF sewing patterns, this post will show you how to use this snazzy feature. It's very simple, I promise!

What is a layered PDF sewing pattern?

Layered PDF sewing patterns are set up with each size placed on its own individual layer, kind of like pieces of tracing paper all stacked one on top of the other. This allows you to hide the sizes you don’t need and print just the ones you do. There are two main benefits to printing patterns in this way:

1. You'll save ink by printing just the sizes you need
2. It makes it easier to see your size line more clearly, making cutting out your pattern a smoother and more straightforward process.

How do I use layered PDF sewing patterns?

The process of using layered PDF patterns is satisfyingly simple!

Common Trouser Fitting Adjustments

Do you like the idea of making trousers or pants, but feel a little nervous about the prospect of fitting them? Well, fear not, as help is here! This blog post will cover the most common fitting adjustments you may need to make when sewing trousers.

Now, before we go any further, please shake off any ideas you may have about making a perfect, crease-free pair of trousers. They simply don’t exist. Well-fitting trousers allow you room to sit down comfortably, breathe, eat, and to live your best life. They will crease where you bend and move, and will allow you space to do so. Basically, don’t get hung up on eliminating every crease and line – it’s impossible!

With that in mind, we've covered a few different fitting adjustments here, but don't feel like you have to try them all! You may not need to make any alterations to your pattern, or perhaps you feel you need to do just one or two tweaks.

Do I need to make a toile?

If you're not sure whether you'll need to make some alterations, or even what adjustments you might need, it's a good idea to make a "toile" - a mock-up garment in a similar weight fabric you don't mind using to test the fit - so you can see how a particular pattern works on you. We have a comprehensive blog post about toile making. Go check it out if you want to find out more!

Making a toile is more important if you're making something with a close-fitting crotch and bum area, like the Thea trousers, but not always essential if you're making a looser fitting garment, such as the Esti trousers or shorts or the Safiya trousers - unless you know you usually need to make lots of adjustments. For looser fitting trousers, you might want to make a "wearable toile", perhaps in an inexpensive but pretty fabric that you won't mind wearing if it all works out beautifully. 

Ready to dive in and learn how to do some common trouser fitting adjustments? Let's go...

How do I add more room to the stomach area? AKA a full tummy adjustment

NEW PATTERN! Meet the Thea trousers

There's a new sewing pattern on the block, and Team Buttons is obsessed!

The Thea trousers are a pair of wide leg pants that will be on regular rotation in your wardrobe. With multiple pocket options, two hemline lengths, and a wide range of suitable fabrics to choose from, this is a pattern to sew again and again.

Read on to find more about Thea…

GET THE THEA PATTERN

Tilly's next book Mini Makes is coming soon!

I'm excited to let you know that my fourth book is coming this spring, and it's all about sewing for little ones!

Mini Makes will be published by Quadrille (Hardie Grant) on 25 April 2024 – and you can pre-order it now!

If you pre-order directly from us by 25th March 2024, we'll send you a signed copy of the book plus an exclusive free gift when the book is released. This pair of woven sew-in labels have been designed by us and aren't available anywhere else. Perfect for adding the finishing touch to your mini makes!

Pre-order signed book + free gift

(Offer ends 25th March 2024. Your book and gift - along with any other items in the same order - will be dispatched when the book is launched in late April - so if you would like to order other items to arrive sooner, please place a separate order. Offer exclusively available for pre-orders from shop.tillyandthebuttons.com. Gift subject to availability.)