How to sew an invisible zip

An invisible zip, sometimes called a concealed zipper, does what it says on the tin! Unlike normal zips, an invisible zip has teeth which are hidden on the underside of the garment, so that it blends seamlessly into your garment, giving a polished and professional-looking finish.

While it might seem intimidating at first, sewing an invisible zip is actually quite simple once you know the steps, and when you've mastered it you'll feel like a pro!

In this tutorial, I'll be demonstrating this fancy fastening on the Tilly and the Buttons Ramona skirt sewing pattern, where the zip is in the left side seam - but you can follow this method for a centred zip too, and apply it to lots of other sewing patterns.

How do you sew an invisible zip?

Watch our step-by-step video tutorial on how to sew an invisible zip or, if you prefer to learn via photos and text, keep on reading.

Remember, we are demonstrating on the Ramona skirt sewing pattern - if you're using a different pattern, your garment might not look exactly like the one in the video and photos, but you'll still be able to use this technique.

Fitting the Ramona skirt

Making the Ramona skirt sewing pattern and looking for some tips on how to get a great fit? Well, you're in exactly the right place. In this blog post, we're going to go through some of the most common fitting adjustments you might need for making a gorgeous, fitted skirt.

Ramona is pretty easy to fit, thanks to its four waist darts, centre back seam, and gently curved waistband - I know, we're spoiling you!

In this post we're going to cover:

• Making a toile and fitting as you sew
• Choosing your size
• Lengthening and shortening
• Combining sizes
• How to do a full bum adjustment on a skirt with darts
• How to do a sway back adjustment on a skirt with darts

How to do a full bum adjustment on a skirt with darts

Do you find that ready-to-wear skirts tend to feel tight around your bum, and that the waistband dips down at the back instead of sitting level all the way around? Or maybe the skirt hem lifts at the back, you have excess fabric pooling at your lower back, and the side seams point diagonally towards the back rather than straight down to the floor? If you're vigorously nodding your head then you might benefit from doing a full bum adjustment on your me-made skirts!

A full bum adjustment adds width and length to the hip area of the back skirt to accommodate a fuller booty. It's a great adjustment to know if you often find you need a little bit more room across your bum, but the skirt fits comfortably on your waist.

I'm demonstrating on the Ramona skirt pattern. You can also use this adjustment on any similar darted skirt pattern.

For this tutorial you’ll need a very quick toile of your skirt, a flexible tape measure, your back skirt pattern piece (trace this off so you're not chopping up your original pattern), a pen or pencil, a ruler, some scissors, some tape or a glue stick, and a bit of paper slightly bigger than your pattern piece. 

So, once you’ve got those handy, let’s get started!

NEW PATTERN! Meet the Ramona skirt

Are you ready to add a new staple to your handmade wardrobe? Let us introduce the Ramona skirt sewing pattern!

Ramona is a a sleek and chic pencil or mini skirt with dreamy details, and the perfect project to kick-start your autumn sew-jo. With two hemline lengths, skill-building techniques, and a wide range of suitable fabrics to choose from, this is a pattern you won't be able to get enough of.

Read on to find out all about Ramona...

GET THE RAMONA PATTERN

THE PATTERN DESIGN

Are you someone who loves sleek lines, subtle details, and minimalist style? Then Ramona is going to be right up your street. Pair the knee-length version with a crisp blouse for work, or throw on the mini with a casual tee and sneakers for the weekend. Whether you dress it up or down, Ramona is going to be a staple in your wardrobe.

And don't let the invisible zip put you off! We'll show you how to get it looking nice and neat with our award-winning step-by-step instructions and free video tutorial.

• Choice of mini-length or knee-length hem with back slit
• Invisible zip closure at the side
• Four waist darts, centre back seam and gently curved waistband for a great fit 
• Choice of casual patch pockets or 60s-inspired faux pocket flaps with optional buttons
• Optional lining pattern with full instructions included

GET THE RAMONA PATTERN

SIZING AND FORMATS

The Ramona pattern includes 15 sizes - UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62.

Sizes UK 6-16 and 18-34 are drafted and graded for a different set of proportions to get a better fit. Sizes 18-34 include slightly more room at the waist and hips, and a bit more space for a fuller booty.

The pattern is available in both printed and PDF format.

Order the printed sewing pattern and we'll send you a beautiful package in the post, with a full-colour instruction booklet. Made in the UK, our patterns are printed on durable paper which you can use again and again without it tearing or scrunching up.

Order the PDF and you'll get an email straight after purchase with a file to either print and assemble at home on A4 or Letter size paper or send to a copyshop or pattern printer to print full scale on A0. The Ramona PDF pattern includes layered sizes too, so you can print just the sizes you want - yay!

FABRIC + SUPPPLIES

Ramona is designed for medium- to heavy-weight woven fabrics that hold their shape, such as corduroy, denim, drill, jacquard, tweed, or wool suiting.

If you're going to line your Ramona skirt, we suggest using slippery lining fabric such as cupro (Bemberg), viscose (rayon), acetate or polyester lining.

You'll also need:

• Matching thread
• 0.3m (1/3yd) x 110cm (1 1/4yd) wide iron-on interfacing (similar weight to your fabric)
• 22cm (9in) invisible zip
• Optional: 2 x 15-20mm (5/8-3/4in) wide buttons for faux flap version
• Sewing machine and basic tools, including an invisible zip foot and a regular or adjustable zip foot

For the full fabric requirements, take a look at the Ramona page on our online shop.

TIPS + TUTORIALS

Ramona is a sewing pattern aimed at "confident beginners" - perfect if you're already comfortable with your sewing machine and ready to start adding some new sewing skills to your repertoire.

The trickiest bit is sewing the invisible zip, but we have a full video tutorial to guide you through this! You will be supported all the way with our clear instructions, and if there are any techniques you aren't sure about, you'll find lots of extra help on our Ramona pattern support page.

And if you've never lined a garment before, Ramona is the perfect place to start. We specifically designed the lining to be simple and speedy to sew, and you'll be so chuffed to see your skirt looking just as beautiful on the inside as it does on the outside.

We can't wait to see what you make with the Ramona skirt pattern! And don't forget to share your progress shots and finished makes with us over on Insta by tagging us @TillyButtons and using the hashtag #SewingRamona so we can find them. Happy sewing!

*****

Fabrics: Hot pink cotton bouclé; Mint 11 wale corduroy; Floral jacquard matelassé

Models: Sinead Dekker and Lynne Mcleod

Photographer: Jane Looker

Hair and make up: Laura Anne at The Bridal Stylists

Samples sewn by Susan Young