17 February 2013

FINAL STEP! Attach the Cuffs

Mathilde sewing pattern - How to attach the cuffs

Last part of making the Mathilde Blouse, y’all! You excited? I am!

As you will have no doubt noticed, the sleeve hem is a lot bigger than the cuff band. By gathering a large sleeve into a small cuff band we’ll be giving the blouse an elegant puff. Let’s do this…

Mathilde sewing pattern - How to attach the cuffs

Your cuff pieces should have already been interfaced. Stitch the short ends of each cuff together, right sides together. Press the seams open.

Now fold each cuff in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Press the fold line to mark it, then unfold it again.

Mathilde sewing pattern - How to attach the cuffs

Slip a cuff over the edge of each sleeve, with the right sides together. Start by pinning them together at the seam lines and notches. Pull on the gather threads at the sleeve hem until the fabric has gathered up to fit the cuff. Then you can use your fingers to spread the gathers out evenly. Once the sleeve hem fits the cuff and the gathers are spread evenly, pin them in place. Use lots of pins - pinned at right angles to the edges - to help keep those gathers even.

Mathilde sewing pattern - How to attach the cuffs

Stitch the sleeve hem to the cuff. If you sew with the sleeve turned right side out, and the wrong side of the fabric directly under your needle - as shown - you can keep an eye on the gathers and readjust them as necessary (mind your fingers!). If you’re super earnest and want to make extra sure your gathers are really even, you could tack (baste) first using long stitches that you can pull out later. Take your time here to get the gathers even - there’s no hurry.

Mathilde sewing pattern - How to attach the cuffs

Trim the sleeve seam down to reduce some of the bulk. Unpick the gather stitches.

Press the cuff away from the sleeve. Now turn the sleeve wrong side out. Fold the bottom edge of the cuff under by 1cm (3/8in), wrong sides together, and press. Fold it under again along the fold line that you marked by pressing earlier, and press again. The inside of the cuff should just overlap the seam line.

Mathilde sewing pattern - How to attach the cuffs

All that’s left to do now is attach the cuff to the inside of the sleeve. My preferred method is to "stitch in the ditch" - in other words, stitch on the right side of the sleeve, with the stitches hidden in the seam line where the cuff joins the sleeve hem. Make sure the other side of the cuff is caught in the stitching and that the raw edges are tucked away neatly.

If you prefer, you can hand stitch the cuff instead :)

Mathilde sewing pattern
Mathilde sewing pattern

Ta da!!! You’re done. You’ve made a beauuutiful Mathilde Blouse!

Wanna show us what you've made? Tag us on Instagram @TillyButtons using the hashtag #SewingMathilde so we don't miss it. Can't wait to see!

7 comments:

  1. Congratulations on the Mathilde Blouse Tilly! From what I've been reading on other people's blogs it sounds like a triumph of a pattern and I can't wait to give it a try!
    I really enjoy reading your blog and have nominated you for the Liebster Blog Award, there's a post about it on my blog http://chainstitcher.blogspot.co.uk/

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    1. Aw that's so sweet of you - thank you!

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  2. This is such an amazingly useful series of yours - from this novice sewer, thank you so much for putting so much time into it!

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  3. Yes yes and yes!! I am (slowly) learning how to sew, and I've always wanted to make clothes. Thanks for such a seriously awesome tutorial (and a ridiculously cute end result).

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  4. I enjoy your instructional posts; even as a no-longer-beginner, it's still interesting to see the different ways people go about construction :). And the mention of gathering reminded me of this video, which I found quite useful, about evenly distributing gathers. As someone who adds ruffles to just about everything, it was quite frustrating having them turn out bunchy. Thought it might help someone else!

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  5. This pattern was so easy to follow and even as a beginner I learned so much about sewing through the directions. The only think I am having trouble with is figuring out how to button up the blouse since the buttons are in the back and hard to reach. Any suggestions?

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    1. Oh I'm so pleased the instructions helped you learn new things! Since the blouse is loose-fitting, you should be able to pull it over your head with all but the first and last buttons done up. Those ones are the easiest to reach :)

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