14 February 2013

Sewing the Back Opening and Hem

Sewing the Mathilde blouse - back opening and hem

Making the Mathilde Blouse? In this post I'm going to show you how to sew the back opening and hem.

Let's get started...

Sewing the Mathilde blouse - back opening and hem

Turn the edges of the back openings inwards by 6mm (1/4in), wrong sides together, and press. (NB. If you pressed down the top edge of the back openings when pressing the neckline facings down, fold them up again for this bit.) Stitch the edges down using a 3mm (1/8in) seam allowance.

Fold the back openings inwards along the fold lines (or the edge of the interfacing), right sides together.

Stitch across the top edges of the back openings, at the same level as the neckline seam.

Sewing the Mathilde blouse - back opening and hem

Stitch the bottom edges of the back openings, 1cm (3/8in) up from the bottom edge. Cut a rectangle of fabric out of the interfaced part of the bottom corner to reduce bulk when you turn it right sides out. Don't cut right up to the stitching line though – the interfacing will help form a nice, neat corner when you turn it through.

Now you can start on the hem - check it's evenly balanced all the way around, then finish the raw edge of the hem using zigzag stitch or an overlocker. If you prefer, you could turn the raw edge under by 5mm (1/4in), press and stitch in place - we'll then turn the rest of the hem allowance up a bit later...

Sewing the Mathilde blouse - back opening and hem

Turn the back openings right sides out. You can ease out the fabric at the corners so they look more like right angles (read more about folding a neat corner). Press.

Sewing the Mathilde blouse - back opening and hem

When you turned the back opening out, you will have turned the rest of the hemline up too. Press the rest of the hem up neatly to the same level as the bottom edge of the back opening.

Stitch the hem in place, close to the inside fold or the finished edge.

Sewing the Mathilde blouse - back opening and hem

Topstitch (or "edgestitch") a rectangle all the way round each back opening, 3mm (1/8in) from its edges. Be sure to catch the edge of the neckline facing in the stitching.

And that's it for today! We'll do the buttonholes next...

9 comments:

  1. I'm not actually sewing along with this blouse, but I'm reading all the steps and finding a lot of helpful tips for my other projects going on - thanks!

    Cat
    catgotdressed.blogspot.com

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  2. Your work looks so crisp and beautiful! It will turn out to be a stunner of a blouse...J

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    1. Thank you! All I can see in the photos are the creases - man, that chambray is creasable!

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  3. Hi Tilly, I'm halfway through my Mathilde and loving it so far! I would like to leave the hem a little bit longer so wondered how that would work with the back panels (as the bottoms appear to align perfectly with your 1 1/4" hem. x

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  4. Pic 4, is that a hem? pic 5 its gone. i don't understand which bit I'm looking at. can anyone help
    thanks

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    1. You're totally right, that photo is confusing - a rogue photo from later must have slipped through the net :) I've removed it now, hopefully it makes more sense!

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  5. Hi, the instructions with the pattern say to stitch the bottom of each back opening 1cm up from the edge. Here it says 2cm. Which is correct please? Thanks :-)

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  6. Hi! I really love Mathilde blouse.
    I have a question. The blouse has 3.2cm hem allowance. But it seems that only 2.0 cm hem allowance is used. Is it correct that you need to stitch the bottom edges of back openings 3.2cm up from the bottom edge, if you want to use full hem allowance?

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