2 March 2017

Sewing Zadie: Attach the Sleeves

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Making the Zadie dress? In this post, I’m going to show you how to attach the sleeves. We’ll start with the cap sleeves – scroll about half way down the page to the long or three-quarter length sleeve steps if you’re making those instead.

Catching up? Order your Zadie sewing pattern and catch up on the sewalong!

For the cap sleeve version:

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

If you’re using an overlocker or serger, finish the bottom of the cap sleeve, and finish the underarm edge at the top of each front side panel and back side panel. If you don’t have an overlocker, don’t worry – just leave the edges raw.

Fold each sleeve hem under 15mm (5/8in), wrong sides together, press and pin in place. Topstitch with a wide and even zigzag (2 x 2mm or 2.5 x 2.5mm), 10mm (3/8in) from the edge.

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Lay the front dress out flat on your sewing table, right side up. Lay the cap sleeves out next to their matching side – the front of the sleeves is marked with single notches.

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Flip the front sleeves over the front dress, right sides together. Pin them together along the raglan seams, matching notches. Line up the hem of each cap sleeve so it’s exactly level with the bodice seam. (And check the bodice seam allowances are still folded towards the bodice when you pin the sleeve to them.)

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Narrow zigzag stitch or overlock (serge) the cap sleeves to the dress along the raglan seams. Trim the seam allowances if you didn’t overlock them, and press them towards the bodice.

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Lay the front dress and sleeves out flat, right side up, and lay the back dress over them, right sides together. Pin the back dress to the sleeves at the raglan seams, matching notches – again, line up the cap sleeve hem with the bodice seam. Narrow zigzag stitch or overlock (serge) them together. Trim the seam allowances if you didn’t overlock them, and press them towards the bodice.

And that’s it for the cap sleeves! We’ll sew the side seams up later. You can skip to the next post now on making the neckband…

For the long or three-quarter sleeve version:

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Lay the front dress out flat on your sewing table, right side up. Lay the long or three-quarter sleeves out next to their matching side – the front of the sleeves is marked with single notches.

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Flip the front sleeves over the front dress, right sides together. Pin them together along the raglan seams, matching notches. (Check the bodice seam allowances are still folded towards the bodice when you pin the sleeve to them.)

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Narrow zigzag stitch or overlock (serge) the cap sleeves to the dress along the raglan seams. Trim the seam allowances if you didn’t overlock them, and press the sleeves and seam allowances towards the bodice.

Sewing Zadie - How to attach raglan sleeves - Tilly and the Buttons

Lay the front dress and sleeves out flat, right side up, and lay the back dress over them, right sides together. Pin the back dress to the sleeves at the raglan seams, matching notches. Narrow zigzag stitch or overlock (serge) them together. Trim the seam allowances if you didn’t overlock them, and press them towards the bodice.

And that’s it for the long or three-quarter sleeves! We’ll sew the side seams up later.

In the next post I’ll show you how to attach the neckband to the dress. In the meantime, let me know how you’re getting on. I’d love to see pictures of your work in progress and finished makes – share them with me on Instagram @TillyButtons with the hashtag #SewingZadie so we can all see.

4 comments:

  1. Is there a picture of the whole dress finished.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Can I use a stretch stitch instead of the zigzag?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Hannah - yes absolutely, whichever stitch you feel confident with and works well with your stretch fabric. Always a good idea to test out your stretch stitch on some fabric scraps to check you're happy with the thread tension.

      Delete

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