Our Winnie trouser sewing pattern aims to blend comfort with style with a softly rounded barrel-leg shape, a flat-fronted elasticated high waistband, and optional pockets. Nailing the fit at waist, hip, and length means a polished finished result.
In this post, we’ll guide you through how Winnie is designed to fit, how to adjust the rise and leg length, how to grade between different waist and hip sizes, and how to fine-tune the waistband fit.
How the Winnie trousers are designed to fit
- The waistband is flat‑fronted with elastic at the back for a comfy yet clean silhouette
- The barrel leg is gently rounded, the side seam towards the front, and the leg skimming the body without clinging
- The ankle-skimming hem strikes a modern balance - comfortable with flats or boots
How do I choose my sewing pattern size?
Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:
- waist - where you bend at the side
- hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is
Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.
Circle your waist and hip measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. If a measurement falls between sizes (for example, if your hips are 42in rather than 41in or 43in), it’s better to choose the larger size as you can take the trousers in more easily than you can let them out.
However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by grading between sizes. We'll come to that later, but if you want to lengthen or shorten the pattern, it's best to do this adjustment first before you tackle anything else.
How to lengthen or shorten the Winnie trousers
Our patterns are drafted for a height of 5"5 (165cm). If you're particularly taller or shorter than this, or know you have a long or short torso or legs, you can change the length of the rise or leg length to fit you better.
Remember! If you alter the length of one piece, make the same adjustment to any pieces that join it, so the seams still match up.
We have included the following sets of lengthen or shorten lines on the Winnie pattern pieces:
1) Rise length
- Winnie is high-rise, i.e. designed to sit at the natural waistline.
- You can alter the length of the rise using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the upper part of the front and back leg.
- Lengthen if you're tall overall, or find trousers often come up a bit too low rise for you.
- Shorten if you're short overall, or find trousers often come up a bit too high rise for you.
2) Leg length
- You can lengthen or shorten the leg length using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the lower part of the front and back leg.
- Compare the inside leg measurement for the Winnie trousers to your own inside leg measurement before you decide whether to lengthen or shorten the legs before cutting.
- Winnie trousers have a generous 5cm (2in) hem allowance, so you can tweak the final length before hemming. However, to maintain the barrel shape, it's best to lengthen or shorten the pattern higher up if you will be making significant changes to the length.
For more in-depth help on how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, see our dedicated tutorial (with video!) here.
Grading between waist and hip sizes
If your waist and hip are different sizes, you can grade between sizes to create a bespoke fit - here's how...
For version without front pockets:
Mark your waist size at the waist seam on the front leg and your hip size at the hip notch. Draw a smooth transition between the two to create a new side seam and front crotch seam.
For version with front pockets:
Place the front leg on top of the front pocket bag. Pin or tape the pieces together along the size lines for the size you want at the waist, aligning the waist seam and hip notches. Draw a new side seam line starting from the waist on the pocket bag to the hip notch for your hip size on the front leg, then continue this line along the front leg side seam until you're in line with the bottom of the pocket bag.
Trace the new side seam and hip notch from the front leg onto the front pocket bag, and extend the bottom edge to meet the new side seam. To do this, you may need to tape some extra paper to the pocket bag.
On the front leg, extend the pocket opening that matches your waist size to meet the new side seam, and true the seam allowance corner. Draw a smooth curve to blend between your waist and hip size along the front crotch seam.
Trace the new side seam, hip notch and pocket opening from the front leg to the front pocket facing and front pocket interfacing strip pieces, taping on extra paper if needed.
For all versions:
Mark your waist size at the waist seam on the back leg and your hip size at the hip notch. Draw a smooth transition between the two to create a new side seam and back crotch seam.
Cut the front and back waistband in your waist size.
Tip: Winnie is a pull-on style without a zip or button opening, so you need to be able to pull the waistband over your hips. That means if you're combining a smaller waist size with a larger hip size, make sure to check the finished waist measurement isn't smaller than your hip measurement. As a general guide, we wouldn’t recommend grading down to a waist size that is more than two sizes smaller than your hip size. Instead pick a waist size no more than two sizes smaller than your hip size and then let the elastic at the waist cinch in to fit you.
For more help on how to combine sewing pattern sizes, see our in-depth our tutorial here (+ video!).
Fit as you sew
- Tack (baste) the side seams first. Try Winnie on before finishing →
- Make the leg wider or narrower by adjusting seam allowances.
- Want more hip ease? Let out the side seam gently.
- Check comfort and hip shape mid-construction for the perfect silhouette.
Adjusting the waistband elastic
- Use the elastic guideline included in the instructions, then customise to your preference. The weight of your fabric and firmness of your elastic can affect the fit of the waistband.
- Try the waistband on and test it fits comfortably both seated and standing.
- If it feels loose, remove the elastic and shorten.
- If it feels tight, cut a slightly longer piece and reattach.
Final fit check before hemming
- Waistband fits snugly without pinching
- Barrel-leg shape is smooth and hangs well (remember, the side seams are designed to be visible from the front)
- Pockets sit flat
- Hemline hits evenly around the ankle
Why this matters
