Try a cute detachable collar to style up your outfits this season! Perhaps you're loving the oversized and statement collar blouses that are popping up but aren't ready to commit to the full look? We've got you covered with our FREE detachable collar pattern download. Perfect for pairing with our Billie Sweatshirt or Indigo Smock sewing patterns for some on-trend Spring layering.
In this post, I'll be sharing a step-by-step tutorial on how to sew the collar, including a helpful video tutorial. Plus I'll list just some of the customisation possibilities at the end. Enjoy!
DOWNLOAD THE FREE COLLAR PATTERN
Open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (you can download it for free). Print the pattern on either A4 or Letter size paper, selecting “actual size” or “set scaling to 100%” or “turn off scaling” in your print settings. You can double-check the pattern has printed at full scale by measuring the test square - it should be exactly 60mm x 60mm. Cut off the borders and join the sheets together with glue or tape, lining up the triangles.
You will need:
- Approximately 1m (1 1/8yd) fabric - or use a combination of smaller scraps from your stash. Cotton work best or, if you want to use a lightweight fabric (like viscose) we'd recommend interfacing the top layer for stability
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine and basic tools
Cut out your pattern pieces:
- 2 x collar pieces on the fold, with the fabric folded on the bias (i.e. at a 45 degree angle to the grainline)
- 2 x neck ties
- Optional: ruffles - cut a number of 8cm (3 1/8in) wide strips, totalling around 2.5-3m (2 3/4-3 1/4yd) long (I cut 6 x 45cm [1/2yd] strips using fabric scraps)
Snip the notches on the collar.
Pin and stitch the ruffle strips at the short ends, right sides together, to form one long strip. Press the seam allowances open.
Press the two remaining short ends under 15mm (5/8in) to the wrong side (this will create neat ends to your ruffles).
Then fold your long ruffle strip lengthways, wrong sides together, and press.
Now to gather the ruffle. Set your sewing machine to a long (4-5mm) straight stitch. Sew 2 or 3 rows of gather stitches along the length of the ruffle, close to the long raw edges, leaving loose thread tails at either end.
Grab hold of the top two threads at one end of the ruffle, and carefully pull them to gather up the fabric. This step may take a while, but don't rush as you don't want to snap your threads! Pull your threads until the ruffles look even and measure approximately the length of your collar. Press the ruffles.
Now to prep the neck ties. Press one short end under about 15mm (5/8in). Fold the rectangles in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and press to make a centre crease.
Unfold again lengthways, and press in the long raw edges to meet the centre fold (this is a bit like making bias binding if you've done that before). Fold the rectangle in half lengthways again and press, enclosing the raw edges.
Making sure your sewing machine stitch length is set back to a regular stitch length, sew along the length of each necktie close to the open folds.
Lay the neck ties over the right (nice) side of one of the collar pieces. Pin the raw short end of each neck tie to the front ends of the collar, 15mm (5/8in) down from the neckline, using the notches as a guide.
Lay the ruffle over the collar too, and pin it to the front ends and outer edge, the long raw edges together, with each end just below a neck tie. Adjust the gathers so they're even.
Stitch in place using a 15mm (5/8in) seam allowance, taking care at your collar front corners making sure not to catch the edge of the ruffle.
TIP: Lower the presser foot pressure and thread tension slightly to make it easier to stitch over the bulky ruffle.
Lay your remaining collar piece over the top, right sides together, sandwiching the ruffles and neck ties inside. Pin and stitch in place around the front ends and outer edge.
Stitch along the inner neck edge, leaving a gap of approximately 5cm (2in) at the centre of the neckline (this is so you can turn your collar out).
Trim the seam allowances and notch little triangles into the curves to help your collar sit neatly.
Turn the collar right side out and make sure your corners are neatly turned out. Press your collar, tucking the seam allowance from the gap inside the collar.
Stitch closed the gap in the neckline (topstitch on your machine or hand stitch if you want the opening to be invisible). You could also topstitch around the entire neckline and outer collar if you want to flatten everything out. Unpick any visible gather stitches on your ruffles.
Give it a good press and admire your finished collar!
Variations:
Don't forget, if you've used different fabrics for each collar piece, your collar is reversible, meaning double the wear! The possibilities are endless with this detachable collar pattern, below are some options you could try next:
- Don't fancy ruffles? Leave out the ruffle cutting and sewing steps and create a simple and smooth, rounded collar instead.
- Extend the neck tie pattern pieces to make more of a statement out of your bow.
- Instead of making a ruffle, try using a gathered trim like lace.
- Instead of making a neck tie, you could use ribbon.
- Want more ruffles? Make the rectangle width wider to make a bigger collar statement!
- Make a faux fur collar! So cute over cardigans and coats, try our throwback tutorial to make your own cosy collar HERE.
If you try our detachable collar pattern, we'd love to see yours! Tag us in your photos on Instagram @tillybuttons or use the hashtag #TillyCollar to share your makes - we can't wait to see how you style them. Happy sewing!
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Author: Abi Dyson
