Sometimes a pattern comes along that you love so much, you find yourself thinking of a squillion ways to make it! Or is that just me? It's Louise here from Team Buttons, and I love, love, love Stevie (the pattern and icon Stevie Nicks).
When we launched the Stevie tunic top and dress last summer, I immediately whipped up a couple of dresses before moving on to a top. When I was making that top (in a gorgeous Rifle Paper Co rayon I'll have you know), I was thinking about how gorgeous the drape was and that I wanted to show it off even more. So I followed the #youcanhackit mantra and did just that!
When I posted this on my Instagram I had a few questions about how to do this easy peasy hack. I tried to describe it, but a visual guide is always so much better isn't it? So here's my guide to adding an inverted pleat or box pleat to the back of Stevie - mine are both tops, but this would work equally as well with the dress version.
I first attempted the inverted pleat that puts volume on the inside if the pleat and creates this really nice triangle shape. When you walk it sort of floats behind you.
I bought this gorgeous Cityscape viscose/rayon from Lamazi Fabrics at the Handmade Fair - it's just so soft and drapey, exactly what I was looking for.
Because Stevie has a lovely yoke detail, it makes it really easy to add the fullness in without having to mess about with the fit on the back or shoulders - yay!
Then after having so much fun with the inverted pleat, I thought I'd see how it looked with a box pleat. The box pleat keeps the fullness on the outside and does exactly what it says on the tin - creates an extra box of fabric.
I used this gorgeous Magnolia Springs organic cotton Sister Mintaka gifted to us. Everything about this fabric spoke to me - the colour, the print, and the crispness of the cotton which falls in a different way to the viscose/rayon. It was exactly what I wanted for the box pleat.
I dipped the hems on both garments for a little extra bum coverage and to highlight the pleat volume even more.
You will need:
- A traced off copy of the Stevie pattern
- Tape measure, ruler or pattern master
- Scissors
- Coloured pen (this makes it easier to see what you are doing)
- Glue
- Some extra paper
First of all, we are going to add volume into the centre back bodice piece for the pleat.
Measuring from the centre back line on the back bodice, put a mark where you are going to extend out to. Then you can draw your new line in across the top of the back bodice seam and down the centre back seam, transferring the 'place on the fold' instruction over so you remember to do just that when you're cutting out.
I added 11cm (4.3 in) to mine, but you might want to play with this on scrap fabric to see what gives you the result you would like.
Next, we're going to add some notches so we know where our fabric will meet to create the pleat. Put a notch where the old centre back ended and one on the new centre back line.
If you want to create a dipped back hem, you will need to draw your new hem line. I decided to drop my back hem by 1.5cm (5/8 in) at centre back, joining up to the original hem at the side seam.
I drew in the new line using a double tracing wheel. You could also do this with a French curve or pattern master, or by hand. The main thing is to make sure the new hem is at a right angle close to the centre back seam line so you don't end up with a squiffy middle!
To create an inverted pleat, you fold the fabric wrong sides together at the notch you added and bring the top corner of this fold to join the top corner of the centre back. Repeat on the other side of the bodice, give it a good press, and then tack (baste) in place 10mm (3/8in) from the top edge.
Then you can carry on with the steps in the Stevie pattern booklet, joining the back bodice to the yoke.
The box pleat follows a similar process, only the extra fabric is folded to the outside rather than being tucked under in.
If you enjoyed this hack idea and are thirsty for more, check out our 10 Design Hack Ideas For The Stevie Tunic blog post. There are so many more I really want to give a go. Don't forget to tag us on Instagram with #SewingStevie so we can see what you make - we luuurve following that hashtag and seeing what pops up!
