How to Make Your Own Bias Binding

Want to add a pretty detail to your homemade clothes?

Bias binding is useful for creating a neat finish on seams that aren’t attached to anything else. The bias cut will allow the binding to stretch slightly, which is handy for getting around curves such as armholes, necklines and curved facings.

You could bias binding to projects such as the armholes of the cap sleeve version of our Etta dress sewing pattern, the back, underarms and straps of our Fifi camisole, the armholes and neckline of our Skye sundress, and the facing on the unlined versions of the Arielle skirt and Sonny jacket.

You can buy ready-made bias binding relatively easily. But it’s good to know how to make it yourself so you can make it in a print, colour and width of your choice. Homemade binding is one of those details that can make your handmade clothes truly special. It's also a great fabric stash buster!

You'll need a bias binding maker for the method shown in this blog post. But a bias binding maker isn’t an essential tool, as in the video tutorial below I’ll also show you how to make bias binding without one, just using your iron instead - yay!

Here's how to make it...

You’ll need a large piece of fabric – a light- to medium-weight woven cotton will be fine. I'm using a Liberty print Tana cotton lawn. You'll also need a bias binding maker for the method I'm going to show you. You can get these handy tools in different sizes – I’m using a 12mm (1/2in) one (this is an affiliate link), which will make single fold bias binding that is 12mm (1/2in) wide once finished. This size is perfect for binding the armholes on the Etta dress.

If you want to make double fold bias binding, for example to bind a neckline edge where you want the binding to be visible on the outside as well as the inside of a garment, you'll press the single fold binding in half after it comes out of the maker. So you’ll end up with 6mm (1/4in) wide binding with a 12mm (1/2in) maker.

How to Sew Slipstitch

Want to brush up on your hand sewing skills?

Slipstitch is a hand stitch that you can use to join a folded edge of fabric to another piece of fabric - for example, for hemming or for attaching binding inside an armhole.




The great thing about this stitch is that it's almost invisible on the outside of the garment, so provides a more couture finish than if you were to topstitch by machine.

Here's a short video showing you how to sew slipstitch. I'm demonstrating on the armhole binding of the Etta dress. I'm using contrast thread so you can see exactly what I'm doing - please do use thread that matches your garment fabric though so your stitches are barely visible and the finish looks much neater!



This video is an extract from my online workshop, Sew Your Own Knockout Dress. Watch the trailer and sign up here!

Lady in Red...

Is anyone else out there totally in love with the Etta sewing pattern?! Lexy here (both behind the keys and on your screens!) and it's my pleasure to show you the Etta dress that Vanesssa made when she explained how to line it. It's just too gorgeous not to share!

Ness used one of our Etta sewing kits to make this stunner. The material is a gorgeous quality sateen, which is super easy to sew, and the slight stretch to it means that it hugs your curves to flatter, whilst allowing movement for comfort - the best of both worlds! 

How to Line the Etta Dress

Sometimes it's satisfying to spend a bit of extra time on your sewing project to get a super luxurious finish – particularly if you're making an outfit for a special occasion.

Vanessa here today - I'm going to show you how to make and attach a lining to your Etta dress. You can also use this tutorial to line many other fitted dresses, including those with a fiddly kick pleat. A lining will not only give your dress more weight and a flattering shape, it also reduces static and twisting - so no tugging around an unruly garment!



When choosing a lining fabric, look out for something lightweight and drapey that feels lovely on your skin. Try acetate or poly satin (nice and cheap - but check it first as it can go a bit static), viscose (rayon) crepe de chine, silk satin or, if you really want to push the boat out, something like silk charmeuse. Tilly bought this lining fabric from A One Fabrics on London's Goldhawk Road.

You'll also need matching thread, some large pieces of paper to make a lining pattern, and the Etta lining template, which prints on one sheet of A4 or Letter paper:

Download the Etta lining template

I've sewn this version in a gorgeous quality red sateen - an easy-to-work-with fabric with a touch of stretch for comfort and a subtle sheen for glamour. You can get your hands on the same fabric that I've used as well as all the notions you need in our Etta sewing kits.

How to Sew a Mitred Corner

Mitred corners create a neat finish on exposed corners, without any flappy bits that you might get by folding one edge over the other. It’s a lovely little extra detail to add to the kick pleat on the Etta dress, and can also be useful on other projects such as blouses, tablecloths and napkins. Here’s how to sew a mitred corner…

The first thing to do is ensure the two folds to be joined are the same width. On the Etta dress the kick pleat fold is 40mm (1½in) wide, while the hem fold is 30mm (1¼in) wide. So you can either trim down the kick pleat by 10mm (3/8in) or fold the hem up an extra 10mm (3/8in) so both folds are either 30mm (1¼in) or 40mm (1½in) wide.



Finish the seam allowances and, if you’re making the Etta dress, press the raw edge of the kick pleat under 10mm (3/8in) and topstitch in place. Press each fold to the wrong side.

Inside our Online Dressmaking Workshop

Today I thought I'd tell you a little bit more about our latest online workshop - Sew Your Own Knockout Dress - and give you a peek inside the members-only workshop site.

I've spent a lot of time developing each of our five sewing workshops to ensure they're clear, well-structured, user-friendly and jam-packed full of learning points. In fact, I've been designing workshops professionally for over a decade and it's my favourite job in the world!

Here's the trailer...



So what do you get when you sign up to one of our online workshops?

Fitting the Etta dress sewing pattern

Making yourself an Etta dress? Vanessa here to take you through some fitting adjustments you can make to create a personalised fit unique to your figure.

Bear in mind you almost certainly won’t need to make all of the changes covered in this post. You might not need to make any at all!

But since we’re all different shapes, one of the lovely things about making your own clothes is being able to get a bespoke fit – much better that shop-bought clothing. You can add or remove length where you need it, take the shoulders in or out, adjust for larger or smaller boobs... It does take a bit of extra work, but it's worth it to have a lovely outfit tailored just for you!

We’re going to look at:

• Choosing your size
• Lengthening or shortening the bodice, skirt or sleeves
• Combining pattern sizes
• Widening or narrowing shoulders
• Adjusting for a sway back
• Adjusting for a full or small bust

Inspiration for Making the Etta Dress

Planning to make the Etta dress? Today I thought I’d share with you some gorgeous Pinspiration to help you decide on colours and prints, and get some styling ideas.

When choosing your fabric, I suggest you pick a medium weight material. You don’t want anything too drapey or the dress might hang a bit funny. If the fabric has a bit of stretch in it, that’s always helpful for a fitted dress like this to make it more comfortable to wear. Look for stretch woven cotton, sateen, triple crepe, crepe-back satin, ponte di roma or stable jacquard knits. The cap sleeve version would also work nicely in brocade, but you might find this kind of material a bit uncomfortable on longer sleeves.

Above - clockwise from top left: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4

It's easy to get drawn to pretty and unusual prints when fabric shopping. But don't forget the humble solid colour! These can often make the most striking dresses. The V-back collar looks particularly good in a solid as it will stand out more. Try a bright or jewel tone, or even a pastel or cream. Look for textured fabrics too, such as jacquard knits and heavy crepes, to add an extra bit of interest.

Clockwise from top left - 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5

NEW Etta Sewing Pattern! And Online Dressmaking Workshop!

There’s a new sewing pattern on the block… she’s called Etta, and she’s a head-turner!

If that wasn’t exciting enough, I’ll take you through all the steps to make it in my brand new online workshop – Sew Your Own Knockout Dress.

Plus you can easily get hold of all the bits and bobs you need to make the dress with our limited edition Etta sewing kits.

So many good things to tell you about today! Let’s start with the design of the dress…