An invisible zip is my favourite kind of fastening to sew into my clothing. The teeth are hidden on the wrong side of the zip, so all you see from the outside of the garment is a subtle seam line. Gorgeous!
I’m going to show you how to insert an invisible zip into the Francoise dress, and you can also use this tutorial for other types of garment too.
You will need:
- Invisible (or concealed) zip (56cm / 22in for the Francoise dress)
- Invisible zip foot (check the one you get fits your model of sewing machine)
- Regular zip foot or adjustable zip foot (adjustable is my preference – again, check it fits your sewing machine)
- Sewing machine and tools (pins, scissors etc)
Attach an invisible zip foot to your sewing machine. The invisible zip foot has two little grooves at the bottom – slot the zip teeth into the left groove. Stitch all the way down one tape, as far as you can go before the zip pull gets in the way, back tacking at each end of the stitching. Trim your threads carefully so they don’t get jammed in the zip.
Pin the right zip tape to the right seam allowance of the dress in the same way. Stitch.
It should look something like this (above).
I also like to stitch the flappy bottom ends of the zip tapes to the seam allowances (not through the outside of the dress), using an adjustable (or regular) zip foot. Press the seam allowances open.
To finish, close the zip and lightly press the zip seam on the right side of the dress. Be careful here as you don’t want to melt the zip – you don’t even need to touch the iron to the fabric, you can just hover it over the seam and emit a little steam to neaten the seam.
And that’s it! You’ve sewn a lovely invisible zip.
If you’re sewing the Francoise dress, all we’ve got left to do is hem the dress and sew the optional tab if you’re adding it. Nearly there!