14 March 2014

Getting a Craft Book Deal


I’ve had a few emails from people who dream of turning their passion for craft into a book and want to know how to go about getting a publishing deal. I am by no means an expert on the subject of book publishing – while my first book is coming out in May, I’ve only got the one deal (so far, fingers crossed etc!). But what I can share is the story of my own book and how it came about.

When the prospect of writing a book first arose, I was totally clueless, so I spent some late nights doing online research and asking friends in publishing how it all worked. There wasn’t a lot of information out there on writing a craft book, but I really valued the advice that I did find. So I’m writing this in the hope that it will add to the conversation and help some other people to follow their dream… You only live once, after all!

Now be warned – this is a reeeeally long post, so if you’re interested in hearing the story, grab yourself a cuppa or a cheeky tipple. Are you sitting comfortably? Then we’ll begin…

For me, it all started a looooong time ago, nearly two years ago in fact, back in the summer of 2012. One day, I opened my emails to find a message from an editor at a major publishing house saying that she’d been reading my blog for some time and wondered whether I’d be interested in writing a book. Well of course it sounded like a very exciting opportunity to turn what I loved doing into a real life, printed book that my mum could put on her coffee table – crazy good, in fact! We had a very positive first meeting, along with a member of the marketing team, and I was asked to write a brief outline of a couple of concepts we’d discussed, to be shared with the rest of the team.

And then I waited.

And waited.

Trying to block it out of my mind, and trying but failing miserably to not get too excited too soon… and then feeling the disappointment of rejection creeping in. When eventually I heard back from the publishers, it was with news that the editor had since left the company, and that the team were focusing on an existing sewing book and didn’t think there was room for another one. Boo ☹

But then a couple of months later, I received an email from another publisher. This time, they already had an idea for a book that they wanted to publish imminently and thought I’d be a good person to write it. The concept was well up my street, and I loved the other books that they published, so despite myself I of course began to get excited again.

Again, but for a totally different reason, this one didn’t work out either.



A second false start. But in the meantime, I’d been making progress in another way. After getting approached by the second publisher, I realised that this crazy idea of writing a book might actually happen one day, possibly very soon, and that I knew absolutely nothing about the process of securing a deal, the terms of a publishing contract, who I should be working with, how much it would be worth etc etc. I’d heard about some bad experiences that other authors had had and I didn’t want to end up with a contract that wasn’t worth the many months of work I would put into writing the book or with some small print that led to frustration further down the line. Having handled my blog solo for years, I decided that now was the time to seek expert help – I wanted to get a literary agent.

Now, I know many craft authors have channelled the spirit of DIY and successfully secured book deals on their own, and I really admire them for that. For me, however, getting a literary agent was one of the best decisions I’ve made. Yes, they take commission. But for me it’s been sooooo worth it in terms of their knowledge of the industry, the contacts they have, the way they champion their authors, the negotiation skills they bring to the table, the questions they know to ask, their fine-print scrutinisation skills, and the moral support and hand-holding they can offer throughout the whole process, from writing a proposal to release. Oh and it’s in their interest to ensure that you’re paid properly for the hard work you put in!

So how do you find an agent? To be honest, I don’t know. All I know is how I got mine. One night, I fired off a short ‘n’ sweet email to an author I admire, who specialises in a totally different subject (so neither she nor her agent would consider me a competitor or conflict of interest), expressing my admiration (hopefully without sounding too much like a creepy stalker) and asking whether she had any advice for me on whether to get an agent or go it alone. (Tip for emailing a busy person: keep it brief and easy to answer!) Knowing how many emails she probably receives, I didn’t expect her to reply, let alone send me the email address of her agent, but that’s exactly what she did! Wow. I am extremely grateful to her for that!

I’m not suggesting you do the same – authors get squillions of emails and giving out your agent’s email address to strangers could totally get you on the wrong side of your agent! But if there’s an author whose career you admire and who writes about a totally different subject to you, have a look at the acknowledgements in the back of their book and you may find the name you’re looking for. Then write a brief note to the agent explaining who you are, an introduction to your idea, and why you want to work with them.

Okay so again I have no idea if that’s what you’re supposed to do, maybe you’re supposed to send them more or less than that, I don’t know – that’s just what I did, and then we met, got on really well, and agreed to work together.

So, literary agent on board, I knew immediately that I was in safe hands. My agent suggested I pretend that the concepts I’d been discussing with other publishers didn’t exist for a moment, and start from scratch. What would my dream book be? What did I feel strongly about? What would I be happy spending six months of my life writing? And out splurged a proposal.


These are the original sketches I included with my proposal
(some of these designs may or may not have made it into the final book!)
So what do you put into a book proposal? What I included was:

  • a suggested title
  • the concept of the book
  • an introduction to who you are and why you’re the right person to write this book
  • your “writer’s platform”, ie. anywhere people might know you from already (eg. blog stats, social media following, press, accolades, other work you may be known for, such as teaching gigs or business ownership…)
  • a draft contents list
  • extracts from the book (alternatively you could submit a full sample chapter)
  • any photos or illustrations relevant to the book (I included a mood board of photos to express the look I wanted for the book and sketched out design ideas for the garments).

The most important thing here is the concept. Do you have a strong idea that fills a gap in the market and for which there is a growing interest? For example, I had a strong gut feeling from blogging about sewing and from listening to my readers that there was a real need for a modern, fun and friendly beginner dressmaking book that takes you from the absolute basics of threading a machine to creating a wardrobe full of stylish handmade garments. I then consolidated this gut feeling with research – which basically entailed sitting on the floor in the craft section of Waterstones Piccadilly, going through all the books and noting what was already out there, what was missing, and how my idea would fill a gap on the shelves.

The process of writing the proposal is a good test, not only of the coherence of your idea but also of your enthusiasm and thus ability to write it. Do the words spring forth with passion and ease? If you find writing the proposal a struggle, you’ll probably find writing a whole book on the subject really tough – so maybe take a step back and rethink what you would really enjoy writing (cos it’s gonna take over your life!). My concept felt totally right to me, and the words filled the pages with ease since it’s basically what I’d been trying to do on my blog for years already. If it feels right, it probably is right.

Proposal written, my agent then submitted it to her Dream List of publishers. Pretty soon, we were liaising on the phone regularly setting up meetings, and I then spent an incredibly intense and fun couple of weeks zipping around London meeting publishers. It was a really interesting process as they were all very different, with different ideas for how they would approach publishing the book.

By the time the meetings had started happening (yes, the process took this long!), The Great British Sewing Bee had begun airing on BBC TV and the secret was out that I was in it. A (brief!) TV gig plus having my face plastered all over national newspapers obviously helped heighten interest and get more meetings with my agent’s first choice of publishers than I may have had otherwise. Obviously not everyone is going to get the chance to get on the telly, and obviously it’s not a requirement of getting a book deal. If you want to write a book I hope you’re heartened by the fact that I’d already had publishers approach me well before I’d even won a place on the show. I believe what was really significant about the Sewing Bee was the fact that it both shone light upon and further fuelled the UK’s growing interest in sewing. Suddenly sewing was hot! Is there is a growing market for the subject you want to write about? If so, that’s going to stand you in good stead when it comes to sparking publishers’ interest. And if you’re writing about craft, the answer is probably yes!

Remember my old blog design?
What can also really help get the attention of publishers is having a blog. Firstly, because a blog showcases your work on a public platform and makes it easy for publishers to see what you can do and what you're about. Secondly, if you can build a readership for your blog, that’s going to reassure publishers that you can build a readership for your book. It’s not just the editorial team who are going to make the decision on the offer – they will probably consult the sales and marketing department too. A third - and very important - reason why having a blog is important is because it gives you practice in writing and designing projects. You’re going to need to be able to do it quickly and consistently when it comes to writing a whole book. So if you want to write a craft book, my advice would be to write a blog, to keep writing a blog, to be professional (never slag anyone off online), to have a clear and unique identity, and to develop themed content on the subject you want to write a book on. Because you never know who is reading and who might email you one day!

Okay, so those are my tips, now back to the story. I’d had lots of meetings, and then began the nervous waiting game as I had to sit tight and hope that some offers would come in and my agent could get to work ensuring I got the best deal. Sitting at my day job, with one eye on my phone hoping it would ring, I was asking myself whether it was really going to happen this time, third time lucky – or was I an idiot to even think it might?

A few very excited email exchanges with my agent ensued, and then I remember rushing out of the office after work one evening, my agent on the phone with some very good news about the outcome of the negotiations. After some discussion and mulling over who would be the right publisher for me and my book, I went with Quadrille. An expert in craft publishing, with the likes of Liberty and Cath Kidston in their catalogue, with strong ideas for the book that matched my own (including the importance of having full scale printed patterns in the book – which I know you lot will appreciate!), I knew they were the right fit for me.

So that’s the story of how I got a craft book deal. Are you still awake?! I hope it was helpful to hear my story, but remember it’s certainly not the only way of going about it. It didn’t just “happen” – it took a long time, a lot of work, and I experienced setbacks and disappointments along the way. But if you dream of getting published and have an idea that feels right, pursue it! It’s an exhilarating ride.


And of course getting a book deal is just the beginning. Then you have to actually write the ruddy thing!

Update: Love at First Stitch was published in the UK on 8 May 2014. Order your copy from UK Amazon or order a signed copy from our shop!

Not in the UK? The book has also been published in CzechDanishDutch, FinnishGermanNorth American English, Norwegian and Swedish.

12 March 2014

My First Knitting Project!


Guys! I knit something! (Knitted? Knit?... [quick google later]... "Knit" is fine.) A scarf, to be precise. And just in time for Spring - erm... good work me!


I'm rather proud of my first knitting project. There are a few dodgy bits, as evidenced by the photo above - including one area where, looking at it now, I guess I must have stopped a few stitches into a row, got distracted, and started knitting back the other way. Nice one! I only actually noticed when I looked at this photo though. Dodgy bits are part of a knitting project's charm, non?

I really enjoyed making this project. Learning a new skill feels so rewarding, and it's exciting to be right at the beginning when I don't know anything... I don't even know what I don't know. I got the same feeling working on this scarf as when I made my first ever dress - I had no idea what I was doing, but loved the anticipation of achievement. The thing that bothers me though is the same thing that bothered me when I began sewing (and which I'm trying to rectify with my patterns) - why oh why are knitting patterns so difficult to understand?!


To help me decipher this whole new mystery world of knitting, I got my mitts on this book, Learn to Knit Love to Knit, written by Anna Wilkinson and published by Quadrille. It's seriously gorgeous, packed full of lovely, colourful projects, including some beautiful jumpers and polka dot socks, as well as tips on getting started. (In fact, seeing this book was one of the reasons I went with Quadrille for my own book!)

The only thing is, seeing as spring is around the corner, I don't really feel like making a wooly hat or wrist warmers as my next project. What does one knit for spring/summer? In London? That's easy-ish? And nice? I've been hunting through Ravelry, and naturally, I have my eye on some tops of the striped - one might even say "Breton" - variety - including this, this and this. (Let's face it, you always need a jumper in London in the Summer.) No idea whether they are achievable on my very limited skills, but I'm always up for a challenge. I've also discovered the wonderful designs of Andi Satterlund. This lady designs absolutely beautiful knitting patterns that are right up my proverbial street, and has great taste in pattern names to boot (she's got a Mathilde hat and a Miette cardigan!). They look like they might be a bit too ambitious for my next project though. Anything else you can suggest that I might like to make next?

Thanks for your help!


[Soundtrack: 'Prince Johnny' by St.Vincent]

10 March 2014

Make It Your Own: Contrast Yoke Coco Variation


Meet my new favourite dress!

Breton tops and dresses with a striped bodice and contrast colour yoke and sleeves (or shoulders) seem to be all over the shops at the moment. And with good reason - they're absolutely gorgeous! Inspired by what I've seen all over Pinterest, and in an effort to use up the small amount of lovely striped fabric left over from my Nautical Dress, I thought I'd make a contrast yoke Coco dress... and show you how to make one yourself with a cheeky bit of pattern hacking.

You can make the yoke and sleeves - or just the yoke - in a contrast colour, or how about playing around with contrast prints too? Boden has some really cute striped tops with polka dot yokes... mmm... stripes and polka dots... Whatever your design, it's a good idea to pick fabrics that feel similar to each other in terms of thickness and stretchability.


You will need:
  • Coco sewing pattern
  • Large paper, pencil and ruler
  • Two different fabrics
  • Other Coco supplies as listed with the pattern (fabric, thread, sewing machine etc)
How to make the Contrast Yoke Coco:


1) On the Front Bodice piece of the Coco sewing pattern, draw a horizontal line, perpendicular to the grainline arrow, where you want the yoke seam line to be. I positioned mine about an inch above the bottom of the armhole. Add in a notch line about half way along this line - a small marking that will help us later when it comes to pinning the yoke and bodice together. Repeat on the Back Bodice piece if you want the contrast yoke on the back of your Coco too.


2) Trace off the Yoke and the Bodice pieces in your size lines on separate pieces of paper. (To trace, you can either lay semi-translucent paper over the pattern; or you can put a new piece of paper underneath the pattern, run a tracing wheel over the lines, and then go over the indentations the tracing wheel made on the new piece of paper with a pencil.)

Label the pieces so you'll remember what they are when you find them again in your pattern pile (eg. "Contrast Yoke Coco, Front Bodice, Size 3 etc"). Add in the notch lines and grainline arrows.

We need to add seam allowance to the seam lines that join the yoke and bodice. Draw a line 15mm (5/8 in) below the bottom edge of the Yoke piece(s) and join it up with the rest of the outline. Draw a line 15mm (5/8 in) above the top edge of the Bodice piece(s) and join it up with the rest of the outline. Move the notch lines so they are on the new lines you've just drawn.


3) Cut out your fabric, cutting the Front and Back Bodice pieces in one fabric and the Yoke and Sleeves in the contrast fabric. When it comes to sewing Coco together, begin by pinning the Front Yoke to the Front Bodice, with the right sides together, matching up the notches. Stitch and press the seam to one side. Repeat on the Back Yoke and Back Bodice if you're making them contrast too. Then follow the rest of the steps in the Coco sewing guide to complete the garment.

Lovely stuff! See y'all at the Coco Party!

7 March 2014

Sewing Coco 5: Add the Pockets



Ready to finish Coco? Let’s make some pockets!

The pattern comes with two different sizes of pocket piece – you get to choose which size to add, how many to add, where to add them, or whether to leave them off altogether! I’ve added one small pocket to the chest of my Coco top, and two large pockets to the hip area on my Coco dress. You could choose matching fabric or a contrast colour or print – how about adding a pretty floral pocket to a bold top, or rotating the direction of the stripes on the pocket?


Once you’ve cut out your pocket or pockets, fold the top edge of each piece over by 15mm (5/8 in), right sides together, and press. Straight stitch down either side of just this folded edge.


Now to turn this fold right sides out. If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you’ll know that I prefer to fold corners rather than snipping them, as they’ll be stronger, sturdier and less likely to form a hole. Fold one of the seam allowances along one of the short lines you’ve just stitched towards the flap you've just folded (see the picture). Holding it in place with finger and thumb, turn the corner right side out. Do the same on the other side.


If the corner doesn’t look much like a corner, you can use the tip of a pin to very gently ease the fabric out into a right angle (be careful not to poke a hole in the fabric).


Fold and press the remaining three edges of each pocket piece under by 15mm (5/8 in), wrong sides together.

Now you can try your Coco on and choose where you want the pocket(s) to go. Pin each pocket in your chosen position on the outside of the garment, the wrong side of the pocket against the right side of the garment. Take the garment off and check the pockets are symmetrical and straight.


Leaving the top edge unstitched, and being careful not to sew through the back of the garment (doh!), straight topstitch the other three sides of each pocket to the front of the garment, 5mm (1/4 in) from the edges (I like to use the edge of my presser foot as a guide). At either end of the stitching line, sew a small triangle shape – this will help strengthen the pocket opening.

Now give everything a final press and…


Voilà! Bust out the cocktails, you’ve made a lovely Coco!

I hope you enjoyed this sewalong. If you want to catch up at any time, the steps will remain on the Coco page. And if you have any questions, do ask in the comments.

And now I’m itching to see what you’ve made! Please leave a link to a photo in the comments or tweet me using the hashtag #SewingCoco. If you share your photo, it may end up on the Pinterest Coco gallery or featured in a future post on this blog (large, light, focused photos preferred!).

Can't wait to see!

6 March 2014

Sewing Coco 4: Finish the Sleeves + Sew the Hem


We’re so nearly there with making Coco! In this post, I’ll walk you through finishing the sleeves – first without cuffs, then with cuffs – and stitching the hem. Let’s get going…

Finishing sleeves without cuffs

Fold the bottom edge of each sleeve under by 2cm (3/4 in), wrong sides together, pressing and pinning in place. Try your Coco on and adjust the sleeve hems if you need to until you’re happy with the length.


Set your machine to the zigzag stitch and to the width and length of stitch you’re using for topstitching (I’m using 2.5 x 2.5). Zigzag topstitch the bottom edge of each sleeve using a 15mm (5/8 in) seam allowance.

TIP: When sewing a smallish loop such as the sleeve hem, be careful not to stretch out the fabric. It’s less likely to stretch out if, rather than wrapping it around the sewing machine free arm, you keep the loop of the sleeve facing up on the machine and sew along the inside.


Finishing sleeves with cuffs

The cuffs – which are an optional attachment for the three quarter length sleeves – are constructed in a similar way to the funnel neck.

You should have cut two cuff pieces. Fold each cuff widthways, right sides together, and pin the short ends together. Snip a small notch at each end of the fold – this will help us align the cuffs to the sleeves in a minute.



Zigzag stitch the short ends of each cuff using the stitch setting you’re using to join seams (I’m using 1.5 width x 2.2 length). Trim the seam allowances to help reduce bulk, and press them open.



Now fold each cuff lengthways, wrong sides together, matching the seam lines and notches, and pin the long edges together. Set your machine to either straight or zigzag stitch and a 4mm stitch length, then baste (tack) together the long edges of each cuff using a 10mm (3/8 in) seam allowance.

TIP: When sewing a smallish loop such as the cuff, be careful not to stretch out the fabric. It’s less likely to stretch out if, rather than wrapping it around the sewing machine free arm, you keep the loop of the cuff facing up on the machine and sew along the inside.


Slip one cuff over the end of each sleeve, right sides together, aligning the basted edges of the cuff to the raw edge of the sleeve, matching the seam lines and notches. Pin each cuff to the sleeve, then zigzag stitch them together (1.5 width x 2.2 length).


Press each cuff away from the sleeve and press the seam allowances towards the inside of the sleeve. Zigzag topstitch (2.5 width x 2.5 length) the seam allowances to the sleeve, just below the seam line. To wear the garment, roll half of the cuff over so it just covers the seam line. If you want to, you can secure the end of each cuff to the sleeve with a couple of hand stitches to stop it unfolding.

Sewing the hem


Right, now to sew the hem. Fold the bottom edge of the garment to the inside by 2cm (3/4 in), pressing and pinning in place. If you’re making the top version, fold the ends of the hem in ever so slightly so they don’t show on the outside of the side splits.

Now try your Coco on. Are you happy with the length of the hemline? Now’s the time to make it slightly shorter if you want to – repin it, press it again neatly, and chop off any excess length so the folded under seam on the hem is 2cm (3/4 in). (If you’d prefer it longer next time you make it, see the post on lengthening the pattern.)

If the hem on your fabric looks a little wibbly, you can try applying hemming tape (like you did on the neckline) to give it a bit more structure.

Once you’re happy with the hemline, straight or zigzag topstitch (2.5 width x 2.5 length) the hem using a 15mm (5/8 in) seam allowance.


And that’s it! If you’re adding pockets, we’ll cover that in the next post in the Coco sewalong. If not, your Coco is finished! Woop! Please leave a link in the comments to a photo - or you can tweet me - I'd love to see...

5 March 2014

Sewing Coco 3: Sew the Sleeves + Side Seams


How’s your Coco coming along? Today we’re going to make it look more like a garment by sewing the sleeves and the side seams. Let’s do this…

Sewing the sleeves

While many sleeves are set "in the round", as tubes inserted into pre-stitched armholes, Coco’s sleeves are stitched “on the flat”, before the underarm seams of the sleeve and side seams of the bodice have been sewn. This way is so much easier! We can get away with using this technique on a design like Coco because the relaxed shape of the garment and added stretch of the fabric mean that we don’t need to add shaping at the shoulder.


The first thing to do is to work out which sleeve joins which armhole. Remember those notches you cut on the sleeve and armhole? The single notches indicate the front of the garment, the double notches the back (they are labelled on the pattern pieces to help you). Lay your bodice out flat on the table so you can see both the front and back, with the right side of the fabric (ie. the side that will show on the outside of the garment) facing up. Place the left sleeve next to the left armhole and the right sleeve next to the right armhole, matching up notches.


Take the left sleeve and flip it over on top of the bodice so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Align the shoulder notch on the sleeve with the shoulder seam on the bodice – as shown in the picture - and pin them together.


Now you can pin the rest of the sleeve to the bodice – after the shoulder, bring together and pin the armhole notches, then the corners, followed by the rest of the sleeve. Pinning perpendicular rather than parallel to the edge will help keep the curved seams together more accurately. I like to insert my pins with the heads sticking out so I can whip them out before the machine needle gets to them (never sew over pins, it’ll mess up your sewing machine!). The fabric won’t lie flat as you’re bringing the raw edges of the sleeve and armhole together – you kinda have to mould it to fit – so just be careful not to stretch the fabric as you’re pinning. (And rest assured that, even though the raw edges of the pieces may look like they’re slightly different lengths, what you’re really joining are the seam lines 15mm within the raw edges, and these will match up exactly.)


Once that’s all pinned, you can start sewing! Set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch that you’re using to join seams (I’m using 1.5 width x 2.2 length). Stitch the sleeve to the armhole, taking your time to navigate the curves without stretching out the fabric. Try not to sew the pressed shoulder seam allowances down the wrong way. Now pin and stitch the other sleeve.


Trim the seam allowances and press them towards the sleeve, on both wrong and right sides of the fabric (ie. the inside and outside of the garment). You should end up with a crazy looking shape like the picture above. Cool man!

Sewing the underarm and side seams

Okey dokey, now we can sew the sides together – we’re going to sew in one straight line down each side from sleeve to hem.


Place the front bodice on top of the back bodice, right sides together. Pin together the underarm and side seams, starting at the points where the sleeves meet the bodice, then matching the notches and pinning the rest of the seam. This time, rather than pinning perpendicular to the edges, insert the pins directly along the stitching line, ie. parallel to and 15mm (5/8”) from the raw edges - now you can go try your Coco on and have a look in the mirror. Happy with the placement of the side seams? Great! If you’d like it tighter or looser, whether all the way down the seams or at certain points, put it on inside out and reposition the pins.


Once you’re happy with the side seams, you can either draw in the seam lines along the line of pins, using a chalk pencil or washable pen; or you can trim down the raw edges so they are 15mm (5/8 in) away from the pins; or you can simply use the line of pins as a guide to follow when sewing. But before you do that, if you’re sewing the top version, mark the top of the side split (the small circle marking) with two pins to remind you to stop sewing when you reach that point.


When you’re ready to sew, you can use a straight stitch here if you like because this part of the garment and grain of the fabric shouldn’t be very stretchy. Stitch each side seam from the end of the sleeve to either the hemline of the dress or the side split marking on the top, pivoting at the point where the sleeve meets the bodice, and back tacking securely at either end. (Pivoting allows you to turn a corner cleanly – with the needle pushed down through the fabric to hold it in place, raise the presser foot, and turn the fabric so the line you want to sew is directly in front of the needle. Lower the presser foot, then continue sewing.)

Trim the seam allowances down to 10mm (3/8 in) and press them open with the iron. A sleeve board, seam roll or even just a rolled up towel can be handy for pressing the sleeve seam open without pressing a crease into the sleeve. If you’re making the top version, press the side splits open too.

For the top version – Stitch the side splits


If you’re making the top, let’s finish those side splits. With the right side facing up, and the raw edges of the side splits still pressed under, we’re going to topstitch around each side split 5mm (1/4 in) from the edge. With your sewing machine on the straight stitch, begin stitching at the hem, using a 5mm (1/4 in) seam allowance, back tacking, and sewing up one side of the split to 5mm (1/4 in) above the split. Pivot the fabric, and sew horizontally across the top of the split for 10mm (1/2 in). Pivot again, sew back down the other side of the split and back tack to secure. The picture above shows you the direction of stitching. Repeat on the other side split. Tip for sewing with a 5mm seam allowance – use the side or another point on your presser foot as a guide (measure it first to find which point is 5mm away from the needle).

And that’s it for today! In the next post, we’ll finish the sleeves and sew the hem... (And if you need to catch up, all the posts will remain on the Coco page.)

4 March 2014

Sewing Coco 2: Sew the Neckline


Sewing Coco? Okay, let's sew the neckline! The pattern comes with two different neckline options - a plain boatneck or a sixties-style wide funnel roll neck. I’ll show you how to do the plain neckline version first, followed by the funnel neck.

Plain neckline version


There are various ways to sew the neckline on a knit top. Coco features what is both an authentic Breton style and probably the easiest to sew – a simple turn-and-stitch neckline.

Fold the raw edge of the neckline under by 10mm (3/8”), wrong sides together (in other words, towards the inside of the garment), so the line of stay stitching is just hidden from the outside.

TIP: If you can get your hands on hemming tape or knit stay tape, it can be really handy for creating a stable finish that’s less likely to gape. Stick or stitch it along the neckline before turning it under. I'm using a double-sided adhesive hemming tape.


Press the neckline in place to neaten it and smooth out any wrinkles, pinning it if you need to (if you’re using fusible tape, you won’t need pins). Set the zigzag stitch to 2.5 width x 2.5 length (or your preferred size) and topstitch the neckline – ie. sew visible stitches on the right side of the garment - 5mm (1/4 in) from the edge. You'll be sewing all the way round, so try to aim the end of your stitching line so it finishes directly on top of where you began. I’ve used contrast thread so you can see the topstitching – you could choose matching thread if you want to hide the stitches, or go for a bright colour as a design feature! Now press the neckline to secure and neaten the seam.

Done!

Funnel neckline version


The other neckline option is a sixties-style wide funnel roll neck – ooh la la. It’s a bit more involved than the plain neckline, but nothing too tricky.

Fold the funnel neck piece in half widthways, right sides together. Pin the short ends together and zigzag stitch them using the setting you’re using for sewing seams (I’m using 1.5 width x 2.2 length). Trim the seam allowances to about half their width to reduce the bulk, and press them open to neaten the seam line.

Now fold the funnel neck in half lengthways, this time bringing the wrong sides together. Make sure the ends of the seam line you’ve just stitched are directly on top of each other, then pin the long edges of the funnel neck together.



Now we’re going to baste (or tack) these long raw edges of the funnel neck together. Basting (or taking) just means sewing long, temporary stitches to hold pieces in place before you sew them for real – in this case, before we attach the funnel neck piece to the neckline. You can baste with either straight stitch or zigzag stitch – whichever you choose, set your machine to a long stitch, about 4mm in length. Use this long stitch to sew the edges together using a 10mm (3/8”) seam allowance (ie. 10mm from the raw edges). You're basically sewing in a loop here - try to finish your stitching line directly on top of where you started.


Pin the basted edge of the funnel neck to the right side of the bodice neckline, aligning the seam line on the funnel neck with one of the shoulder seam lines. The funnel neck is a teeny bit smaller than the neckline so that it pulls the neckline in ever so slightly to help stop it gaping, so you may need to stretch it a tiny bit when pinning.


Set your sewing machine to the zigzag setting you’re using for sewing seams (I’m using 1.5 width x 2.2 length), and stitch the funnel neck to the bodice neckline. I'm using contrast colour thread so you can see it, but better go for matching thread. Again, you’ll be sewing in a loop – aim to sew the end of your line of stitching directly on top of where you began.


Now get out your iron. Press the funnel neck away from the bodice and press the seam allowances towards the inside of the bodice.


Zigzag topstitch (2.5 width x 2.5 length) the seam allowances to the bodice – this will stop the seam allowances flipping to the outside. (I'm doing it on the inside of the garment in this photo so you can see where I'm sewing, alternatively you can sew from the outside of the garment if you prefer.)

And that’s your funnel neck sewn! When it comes to wearing it, roll half of the funnel neck down so it just covers the seam line.

Lovely stuff!

In the next post, we’ll sew the sleeves and side seams. Need to catch up? Read the other posts in the Coco sewalong.