So you’ve picked out your dream fabric and printed your Luella skirt pattern… now let’s talk about fit!
Luella is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.
Luella is designed to be easy to wear, with a comfy elasticated waist and lots of swish from the gathered tiers – but that doesn’t mean we’re skipping the fitting step. In this post, we’ll walk you through how Luella is designed to fit, how to adjust the length, and how to tweak the fit at the waist and hips to suit your body.
Whether you’re new to fitting or a seasoned pro, we’ve got your back...
How the Luella skirt is designed to fit
Luella is all about comfort and flow, with a polished silhouette that looks great dressed up or down.
- The top tier is gently shaped to skim your hips, creating a silhouette that’s not too clingy and not too loose – just right!
- The lower tiers are gathered and swishy, adding movement and a touch of drama (yes please!).
- The waistband is elasticated, but it’s designed to sit snugly at your waist, holding the skirt in place without digging in.
How do I choose my sewing pattern size?
- waist - where you bend at the side
- hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror to see where this is
Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.
Circle your waist and hip measurements on the ‘Body Measurements’ chart in the pattern instructions. If your measurements all fall into one size, then this is the size you'll cut. If a measurement falls between sizes (for example, if your hips are 42in rather than 41in or 43in), it’s better to choose the larger size as you can take the skirt in more easily than you can let it out.
However, it's common for your measurements to fall into different sizes too. In fact, most people's do! You can create a bespoke fit for you by combining sizes. We'll come to that later, but if you want to lengthen or shorten the pattern, it's best to do this adjustment first before you tackle anything else.
How to lengthen or shorten the Luella skirt
The finished garment measurements chart (above) tells you how long the finished skirt will be. Want it to be longer or shorter? No problem!
Each tier has a lengthen/shorten line marked on the pattern, so you can easily customise it to suit your style or height. We have a blog post dedicated to explaining how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, which shows you step-by-step how to make this adjustment.
When lengthening:
- Add the extra length between the tiers rather than just at the hem, to keep the balance of the design.
- Spread the extra amount evenly across the tiers using the lengthen/shorten lines.
- You can also add a little more to the hem if needed – just be sure to try it on before hemming so you can get it just right.
When shortening:
- Similarly, divide the total amount you want to shorten between the tiers.
- Shortening just at the hem can make the bottom tier look a little squashed – spreading it out helps keep those gorgeous proportions.
Tip: If you’re unsure what length you want, try your skirt on before hemming to see where it hits – especially if you're planning to wear it with different shoe styles!
Grading between waist and hip sizes
If your waist and hip measurements fall into different sizes, you can grade between them on the side seam of the top tier.
Here's what to do:
- At the top of the first tier, mark your waist size.
- At the hip notch, mark your hip size.
- Draw a smooth line to connect them.
- Cut the second (and third) tier(s) in your hip size.
- Cut the waistband in your waist size.
BUT! If your hips are more than two sizes bigger than your waist, you’ll need to make sure the skirt can still be pulled on over your hips.
In that case:
- Choose a waist size that’s no more than two sizes smaller than your hips.
- Let the elastic in the waistband cinch it in to fit your waist.
- You may still want to grade a little at the top tier side seam – just not as dramatically.
Don’t forget the pocket pieces!
- Option 1: Trace the new side seam shape onto the pocket bag and interfacing pieces so everything lines up perfectly.
- Option 2: If the pocket pieces still match the graded side seam well enough, you can leave them as is. If you just need to tweak the waist seam slightly, stick a scrap of paper to the top to add a bit of extra width there.
Not sure about the fit? Try a toile first!
- Option 1: Make a quick toile - or mock up in cheap fabric - of the first tier + waistband in scrap fabric to test fit and waistline placement.
- Option 2: Using your "real" project fabric, tack together (baste) the first tier pieces without pockets, then try it on and adjust as needed before sewing for real.
- Option 3: Sew your first version without pockets, so you can easily adjust the side seams if needed and add pockets next time!
Final tips for a great fit
- The elastic waistband means you’ve got wiggle room – perfect if your waist measurement fluctuates.
- Make sure the waistband fits snugly before stitching the elastic closed, you can always unpick and shorten the elastic if it feels too loose.
- Try on your skirt before hemming to check the length, and don't forget, different shoes can make a big difference to the vibe!
You’ve got this!
