Showing posts with label papercut patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label papercut patterns. Show all posts

18 May 2016

A Capeless Watson Jacket

Watson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the ButtonsWatson Jacket - Papercut Patterns - made by Tilly and the Buttons

You know what it's like - you search in vain all Autumn and Winter long for the perfect coloured wool to make a coat that doesn't break the bank. Then, come late Spring, you find it!

I couldn't resist grabbing this mint wool when I spotted it on Goldhawk Road a few weeks ago, and promptly sewed it up into a Papercut Patterns Watson jacket before the weather gets too warm (I live in London). Longtime readers may remember I've made the pattern before, back in 2013 (inspired by Moonrise Kingdom but ending up looking like a homage to Father Ted - still love it though).

22 April 2016

A Denim Yoyo Dress

Denim YoYo Dress - Tilly and the Buttons

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen some peeks of this dress while I was making it. It's the Yoyo dress pattern from NZ-based Papercut Patterns, which I bought from UK stockist Sewbox. As soon as I saw the pattern, I knew I wanted to make a denim version (of course) to layer over stripey tops (naturally). And I love how it turned out!

13 December 2013

The Moonrise Kingdom Jacket


Finished! The Moonrise Kingdom jacket, inspired by Suzy Bishop's coat in the Wes Anderson movie. I made this from the Watson jacket sewing pattern from Papercut Patterns (available in the UK from Sewbox), using hot pink wool and houndstooth lining from Goldhawk Road.



This isn't what you'd call a speedy sewing project, particularly as I decided to make fiddly bound buttonholes as well as fabric-covered buttons. I also patiently made a toile of the bodice so I could adjust the pattern to fit me (just the usual adjustments for my shape, nothing unexpected). I wish I'd toiled up the capelet (love that word) too, as the shape of the shoulder curve has ended up a little large on me. Oh well, eighties pop video here I come! I had to unpick a couple of times as I missed or misunderstood some of the instructions, particularly with the direction of the hem facing and how to attach the capelet (still love that word) to the shoulder seams. Take extra care with these parts and baste first if you're not sure (something which I of course didn't do!).




It turned out lovely in the end though so was worth the effort. It really is a beautifully designed pattern, and I'm already dreaming about making a little navy jacket for the Spring, perhaps without the capelet this time - as swoonsome as it is, there are only so many capelets one needs in one's life, non?


Speaking of the capelet (the more I look at the word, the weirder it looks), as you know the inspiration for my pink jacket was Moonrise Kingdom. Or was it...? The other night I turned on the telly and happened to land on an episode of Father Ted (for international readers, this is a genius sitcom about three Catholic priests and their housekeeper living on a tiny island off the coast of Ireland - much funnier than it sounds, I promise). In this particular episode, three bishops visit Craggy Island to upgrade a local holy stone to a "class 2 relic"... hilarity ensues, of course. As I was watching, I began admiring the robes worn by the priests... and they started to remind me of something... now what was it...?


Yikes! My eyes suddenly darted a few cms left of the screen to my dress form and there it was! I'd inadvertently been channeling Catholic Bishop Chic through my sewing all along. Stop laughing!

Can we just pretend we never noticed the uncanny similarity please? It's the Moonrise Kingdom jacket. The Moonrise Kingdom jacket.



[Soundtrack: 'The Young Person's Guide to the Orchestra' composed by Benjamin Britten]

15 November 2013

What's On My Sewing Table...


On one of the last days of photography for my book, the designer of the book, who worked with me closely throughout the process, asked me how I was going to celebrate once it was all over. "Oooh I'm going to do some sewing!" I excitedly exclaimed. She looked at me absolutely flabbergasted. After months of speed sewing 21 projects plus countless toile iterations, I was looking forward to... erm... more sewing! "Woah. That's a testament to the strength of your passion," she replied.


And that time has arrived! I've submitted the book and, around sorting out the mess (both physical and metaphorical) that I left festering while I was in flow, and planning my next Big Project, I'm doing some sewing for myself. While the blogosphere is going wild over the latest collection from Papercut Patterns, I've been toiling, tweaking and prepping fabric for the Watson jacket from Papercut's first collection, which has been on my "to make" list for aaaaaages. (If you're in the UK, you can order Papercut Patterns from Sewbox.)


It has a capelet. Say that out loud - "capelet". Such a good word.


I'm making it in some pink wool as a homage to Suzy Bishop from Moonrise Kingdom. Homage, not exact replica. The fabric is a brighter colour and I'm sticking to the short length and double-breasted frontage of the original pattern. I haven't yet decided on what lining fabric to use. I might keep it simple with black polka dots on white, or I could go wacky with a crazy cotton print. Any ideas?

What's on your sewing table, please?

22 February 2013

Coppelia in Red


Look what I made! It's the Coppelia cardi by Papercut Patterns, in a fire engine red wool jersey from Simply Fabrics in Brixton. I really enjoyed making this, firstly because it was a relatively quick make, secondly because I'd been coveting Lauren's version, and thirdly because it's always great to try out an indie pattern company for the first time (noooo, of course I'm not hinting at anything...).

Winnie just wrote a great post asking what steps people add to a sewing project that aren't listed in the pattern - it's so interesting to read about different people's approaches. For this pattern, a couple of steps I added were to stay stitch the seams that were cut on the bias and apply stay tape to the side seams to help prevent the knit from stretching out of shape.



When I first finished this, I declared it a wearable muslin* because I wasn't totally happy with the fitting...


... the neckline seemed to be sticking up by about a mile, which I put down to my narrow shoulders...


... or if I pulled it down to fit my shoulders the cardi gaped at the bust. So I was planning a refitting operation involving pinching out triangles of fabric at strategic points and redrafting the pattern to fit me...


... but then when I wore the cardi properly for the first time, I just did the wrap bit up a bit tighter, pulled it a slightly different way, and tada! It didn't seem so bad after all. Do you ever have that when you stare at a project for too long and blow little niggly things out of all proportion? In the meantime, however, I'd emailed the lovely Katie Papercut and she offered to produce a photo tutorial on the fitting. How's that for customer service? Pretty awesome, if you ask me!



Have you sewn a Papercut Pattern pattern? I'd love to see! Check out my interview with Katie Papercut, then get yourself over there.

[Soundtrack: 'Flutes' by Hot Chip]

*a test version of a sewing project to check the fitting, but that can also be worn around the house when no one's looking

14 September 2012

Autumn Jackets: Sewing Pattern Inspiration


Anise by Colette Patterns


Steffi by Burda


Simplicity 7032 (aka the Betty Draper Jacket)




Watson by Papercut Patterns

I'm itching to make an Autumn jacket. Something short and chic, yet snuggly enough for the crisp mornings soon to come. These are some of the patterns I'm dreaming of at the moment. Which is your favourite? Do you have any other suggestions I might like?

[Soundtrack: 'Autumn Sweater' by Yo La Tengo]

3 July 2012

Unwrapping Papercut Patterns


Have you heard of Papercut Patterns? It's always exciting to discover a new (to me) sewing pattern company and I was particularly intrigued when I stumbled upon this line. Owner Katie sent me a pattern to try and - even though I'll have to wait a few months to sew and wear it - I couldn't resist the Watson jacket, which has a sweet little "capelet". Don't you just love that word? Capelet! Mmm...



Papercut Patterns takes a completely fresh approach to packaging design. The patterns come in a square box with cut out details, opening out to reveal a hanger. Could you hear me oohing and ahhing as I opened the box? The pattern instructions are printed on huge sheets of recycled paper, the same paper the patterns are printed on, the idea being to cut them yourself into a little booklet. The paper itself has a nice weight to it which won't rip easily. The instructions are given in an encouraging, friendly tone, with little tips thrown in. Handily for my fellow Brits and others, the fabric size requirements are given in both metres and yards.

But enough gushing from me - let's have a mini interview with designer Katie herself...


When did you start Papercut Patterns and how did you get into it?

Katie: "I first came up with the idea in 2008 while I was working in a fabric store in Auckland, New Zealand. I constantly had young stylish girls that were really into fashion asking me where they could get current sewing patterns. Because I had always drafted my own, I hadn’t really noticed the massive gap in the market. I guess you could say I had a light bulb moment, however to turn it into a reality there was a lot to be done! Firstly I had to move my life from Auckland as it was too expensive to live there while setting up as I was also supporting my then 7 year old daughter on my own. I moved back to my hometown Blenheim which is a small rural town in the South Island of NZ. My dad made a space for me in the corner of his business where Papercut began. It took me a while to set up, as I didn’t have any capital to start the business and had to do everything myself.

I started by designing my collection, then by the time I’d taught myself to use Illustrator and Indesign, designed my packaging, logo and website, I was really over my original collection so started again. Finally in September of 2010 I launched my business!"



The first thing that struck me about the patterns was the amazing packaging. What was your thinking behind the package design?

"I wanted my patterns to be a completely different experience to anything that was already on the market. I absolutely love beautiful innovative packaging and I wanted it to be something people would be excited to open.

I wanted to bring in a real designer at home feel. In a fashion workroom patterns are always drafted on brown paper and hung on a hook. Originally I wanted to have a proper pattern hook included in the package, and I bought 10 from an online store to work out how I would package them up…still to this day I haven’t received those hooks after numerous emails to the company I bought them from, however it made me think more creatively as to how I would achieve what I wanted.

I woke up in the middle of the night one night with the design for my envelope. Once I had that developed, I needed to figure out how I was going to punch the holes in each pattern piece for the string to go though to hang them up. The holes are still to this day all individually punched by hand.

My packaging has evolved a lot since I first launched, I am constantly making changes so that it is more functional."




The packaging and patterns are printed on recycled paper. Is environmental sustainability an important consideration for your business?

"I think that sustainability is something our generation really needs to think about. We need to be more aware of our impact on resources. I love that people are getting back to making things for themselves and I think it’s important that we care more.

I encourage to recycle any left over scraps. There are so many ways this can be done other than just putting them into a recycle bin. Paper scraps can be used for kids to draw and paint on. You can make cute little origami animals, and fabric scraps can be used for all sorts of things, even as fillers for cushions.

I also like to promote using natural and renewable fibres, not only do they feel and look better, they are better for our environment. I’m not sure how available it is over there, but I’m a huge user of NZ Merino Wool, it is such an amazing fibre! You can put it in the washing machine with everything else, it’s warm, light and sustainable!"

 


How would you describe the style of the garments that people can make with your sewing patterns?

"With my first collection I wanted it to be a basics range, patterns that you can make many times in different fabrics without it being too obvious it’s the same garment. If you look at most designers, they have repeat garments they release in different fabrics and prints each season.

I have been very vague in my fabric recommendations, as I want people to realise that they can put their own take onto my pattern, they are essentially the designer… for example, my Milano Cape has been made in a heavy wool coating, but you could make it up in a lightweight drapey silk and it be more like cape shirt dress. Depending on what you make your pattern up in, it can look like a completely different garment."

Which is your favourite of your sewing pattern designs and why?

"That’s a hard one, I wear them all! My Milano cape with Merino leggings underneath were especially great during my pregnancy last winter! The pleated pants are a wardrobe staple of mine, and I have a circle top in every colour of Merino possible! My all time favourite though would have to be my sleeveless Watson Jacket, I love it and wear it all the time!"

Thanks, Katie! Y'all, take a look at the rest of the pattern line, there are some lovely modern designs... including the really intriguing Circle Top! UK peeps can buy them from Sewbox.