Looking Back on 2013

Tomorrow is not only the start of a new year but also my four year blogiversary. It seems like a looooong time ago now that I was dared into starting a blog. I had no clue how to write a blog, and no idea how much it would change my life – I simply wanted to share my passion for dressmaking with people who didn’t look at me like I was completely crazy (“MAKE your own clothes?! Why don’t you just buy them like normal people?”). I remember the sense of elation I felt back then of first connecting with other people online who share my interest; thoughtful, fun and generous people who spur each other along to keep creating. 494 blog posts and over five million views later, and I am still excited at the opportunities that blogging can bring to make meaningful connections, and I am still in awe of just how wonderfully supportive the online maker community can be. So I just want to take the opportunity of the eve of both the new year and my blogiversary to say a heartfelt THANK YOU to everyone who has been part of my blogging life, whether as a reader, commenter, contributor or fellow blogger. You inspire and motivate me to keep doing what I do, and it’s brought me so much pleasure.

This last year has been a particularly exciting one for me, in which my blog has brought me lots of great opportunities. I’ll be honest, it hasn’t always been a smooth ride, and there was a time this year when I nearly quit blogging altogether. At times like that you have to shut out all the noise and remind yourself why you do what you do. For me, I do what I do because I love making stuff and want to inspire other people to make stuff too. It’s as simple as that, nothing grand, and certainly nothing worth stressing over. Remembering this helped me pull it together and keep going. And I’m so glad I did.

As a workaholic, I have a compulsion to jump from project to project pretty quickly, always thinking about what I’m going to do next. One of my resolutions is to slow down a little and be more mindful of what I have already done and am doing. So in this spirit I want to take the opportunity of the end of the year to reflect on the Good Things that 2013 brought me.

In 2013, I…

… released some sewing patterns
After months of work, I released the Mathilde blouse sewing pattern for instant download. It was nerve wracking to put my pattern out there, and so rewarding to see all the lovely things that you’ve made with it! I still can’t get over how many people have bought the pattern. The Miette skirt followed, based on an idea I’d been dreaming about for ages of the perfect sewing pattern for beginners that has no fiddly fastenings and is super easy to fit. I also released the Marielle skirt in Sewing World magazine (and to the people who have been asking for that one, I do plan to release it wider at some point, it just takes a lot of work so please bear with me!).

… started teaching sewing workshops
Having designed and taught courses in my day job for so long, it’s been brilliant to combine that experience with my passion for DIY dressmaking. I love teaching – it’s so rewarding to watch people get stuck into sewing and to see their confidence grow as the class progresses. Upcoming classes in London include ‘Learn to Sew: Tilly’s Bow Belt’ at The Village Haberdashery on the evenings of 16th January or 27th February, and ‘Sew the Miette Skirt’ at The Thrifty Stitcher on Sunday 9th March.

… was on the telly
In April this year The Great British Sewing Bee hit our screens, and over night sewing suddenly seemed to become an acceptable hobby in the UK. We had such a laugh filming the show, and the experience of being part of a project like that and suddenly thrown into the spotlight was eye-opening and has taught me so much.

… gave some talks
In the Summer, I travelled to Sheffield to give a talk called 'Craft Your Blog' to 200 craft business owners at the amazing Folksy Summer School (you can watch a video of my talk here). More recently I was on a panel at an Enterprise Nation event in the British Library, speaking to people who want to turn their hobby into a business. I love doing these sorts of events, it’s great to get out and about!

… wrote a book
The seeds for this were actually planted in 2012, and the book won't be released until 2014, but this year I did the most important part, for me at least – writing it. Initially I believed that writing a book was meant to be the painful-yet-necessary part in between getting a deal and getting published. I’m sure you’ve heard the horror stories of the stresses, strains and late nights involved in putting together a book, particularly a craft book when you’ve got to design, make and photograph all the stuff too. I didn’t want it to be this way though, so I took the conscious decision to make the process of writing the book enjoyable and fulfilling. And so it came to pass! Now I can’t wait to write another book. (Okay, so maybe I can wait a little bit, I’m enjoying having the odd day off now and again!)

… quit my job
People always say this must have been so nerve-wracking, but it wasn’t at all! I loved my job, and leaving my film industry career behind me wasn’t easy, but I love making stuff and writing about making stuff even more, and was itching to be my own boss. So while I didn’t take the decision lightly, it made absolute sense to just go for it. You only live once, after all. So since the Summer I’ve been a full time… erm… blogger-author-teacher-business owner. Yip, I still gotta work on my pitch. When people ask what I do, I tend to shorten it either to “I’m a blogger” just to see how they react (“A blogger?! [Sharp intake of breath] THAT’s not a job!”) or to “I help people start making their own clothes” which also needs a slightly longer explanation…

… started writing a column for Crafty magazine
I loved Crafty magazine as soon as I first saw it – a publication for modern makers, creativity without the twee. So being given a regular column, alongside luminaries such as Mr X Stitch and Sarah “Craftivist” Corbett, is such an pleasure. If you haven’t already seen this magazine, you need to check it out.

… met some lovely people
People do give you funny looks when you say you’ve made friends on the internet, but more fool them! I've met some lovely people this year, both online and offline, including through the #SewingSocial Twitter chat (shall we do another one early next year? Any suggestions for a discussion topic?), fabric shopping/swapping meet-ups, hopping around the internet and discovering new blogs, ooh and Christine Haynes popped by from LA. Looking forward to meeting more of you next year!

… went back to school
In the Autumn, I started School for Creative Startups, an awesome business course for craft and creative industries people, with help from the HRH British Made bursary from the Duke of York. If all goes to plan, there is going to be an amazing event to mark the end of the course in the spring, which I will invite you along to - watch this space...

And that’s about it. Phew! The process of writing this all down has really brought home just how busy I’ve been in 2013. And now I’m exhausted! So I’m off to have a sherry, and if you’ve read this far, you definitely deserve a sherry too.

Thanks for reading, and wishing y'all a very happy 2014!

Free pattern! Make a (fake) Fur Collar

Surprise! A little gift for you to say thank you for reading and for helping to make this a wonderful year - a free pattern and instructions to make a (fake) Fur Collar.

This is a one-size detachable collar to add a touch of Winter glamour to your coats and cardis. It'd make a gorgeous last-minute Christmas gift too! It can be sewn either by hand or on a sewing machine. The pattern is available below for instant download and prints on two sheets of A4 or Letter size paper.

I made mine using a deliciously silky soft snow leopard print fake fur that I found in the remnant bin at Simply Fabrics in Brixton. You could also try Fabric Mart, Minerva Crafts and My Fabric Place.

You will need:

Fake fur for the collar - 30cm / 12" length x 40cm / 16" width

Satin or lining fabric for the under-collar - 30cm / 12" length x 40cm / 16" width

Matching thread

Hook and eye

Tools:

Fabric scissors or craft knife and cutting mat

Pins

Sewing machine (optional)

Hand sewing needle

Printer and 2 sheets of A4 or Letter size paper

Paper scissors

Glue or tape

To prepare the pattern:

Download the pattern here

Download the pattern and open it on a PDF reader such as Adobe Reader (if you print the pattern directly from Google Drive, it may not print at full scale - not the end of the world but you may find the collar a little small). In the print settings, select “actual size” or “set scaling to 100%” or “turn off scaling” (depending on what options you're given) to print the pattern at full scale. When you've printed the pattern, measure the test square on the pattern to double check it's exactly 40mm.

Cut along one of the frame lines, glue or tape the two collar pieces together to create one piece, and cut it out. And it's ready to use!

How to make the collar:

1) Place the pattern on the wrong side (ie. back) of the fake fur fabric, checking that the pile of the fur is pointing towards the ends of the collar. Pin the pattern in place, draw around it with a pen or pencil, then cut it out this shape using fabric scissors or a craft knife. When cutting fur, use the tip of the scissors or knife to make shallow cuts – focus on cutting the backing and try to avoid trimming down the pile if you can. To avoid the pile getting caught in the sewing machine or creating excessive bulk under the seams, you can either carefully trim the outer edge of the pile (not the backing) or comb it towards the middle. By now you should have fluff everywhere!

2) Pin the pattern to the under-collar fabric and cut it out using fabric scissors (or a rotary cutter if you have one). Trim the under-collar down by 2mm all the way around the edges. Making the under-collar slightly smaller than the collar will entice the seam line to roll to the underside when stitched so it’s not visible when the collar is worn.

3) Place the under-collar on top of the collar so the right sides (outside of the fabric) are facing each other. Pin the raw edges together, smoothing the pile towards the collar as you pin. Leave an opening about 10cm / 4” in length at the centre of the inside edge – I like to mark each side of the opening with two pins to remind me to stop sewing here. It’ll probably look a little wibbly at this stage as the under-collar is pulling on the slightly larger collar fabric – rest assured it’ll be neater once it’s turned out.

4) Starting at one end of the opening, stitch the under-collar to the collar using a 15mm / 5/8” seam allowance, backtacking at either end and removing pins as you sew. If you’re sewing on a machine, Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide recommends setting the stitch length to 2.5 – 3mm. This makes it easier to free any trapped fur from the line of stitching later. In any case it’s a good idea to test out the stitch length and tension on a scrap first. Take pauses as you sew to poke any stray pile towards the collar with a pin.

5) Trim the seam allowances down close to the seam line to reduce bulk when we turn the collar out. Don’t trim the seam allowances of the unstitched opening though.

6) Turn the collar right sides out by pulling the ends through the unstitched opening. Run your finger inside the collar along the seam line to neaten it. If any of the pile is trapped in the stitching line, you can pull it out using a comb or your fingers. Fold the seam allowances of the unstitched opening to the inside of the collar and pin. Slip stitch the opening by hand to close it.

7) Sew a hook and eye onto the inner corners of the collar by hand.

Et voilà! A gorgeous fake fur collar!

You should now have fur fluff all over the place! Your table, floor, clothes, hair... When you’re cleaning up, give your machine a clean too so the fur doesn’t clog it up.

If you make a (fake) Fur Collar of your own, I'd love to see! Leave a link below to your picture on Pinterest / Instagram / Flickr / your blog and I'll share it on Pinterest. I may feature some of the projects in a future post, so if you leave a link below I'll take that as permission to share your image. Can't wait to see!

['Sleigh Ride' by The Ronettes]

The Moonrise Kingdom Jacket

Finished! The Moonrise Kingdom jacket, inspired by Suzy Bishop's coat in the Wes Anderson movie. I made this from the Watson jacket sewing pattern from Papercut Patterns (available in the UK from Sewbox), using hot pink wool and houndstooth lining from Goldhawk Road.

This isn't what you'd call a speedy sewing project, particularly as I decided to make fiddly bound buttonholes as well as fabric-covered buttons. I also patiently made a toile of the bodice so I could adjust the pattern to fit me (just the usual adjustments for my shape, nothing unexpected). I wish I'd toiled up the capelet (love that word) too, as the shape of the shoulder curve has ended up a little large on me. Oh well, eighties pop video here I come! I had to unpick a couple of times as I missed or misunderstood some of the instructions, particularly with the direction of the hem facing and how to attach the capelet (still love that word) to the shoulder seams. Take extra care with these parts and baste first if you're not sure (something which I of course didn't do!).




It turned out lovely in the end though so was worth the effort. It really is a beautifully designed pattern, and I'm already dreaming about making a little navy jacket for the Spring, perhaps without the capelet this time - as swoonsome as it is, there are only so many capelets one needs in one's life, non?

Speaking of the capelet (the more I look at the word, the weirder it looks), as you know the inspiration for my pink jacket was Moonrise Kingdom. Or was it...? The other night I turned on the telly and happened to land on an episode of Father Ted (for international readers, this is a genius sitcom about three Catholic priests and their housekeeper living on a tiny island off the coast of Ireland - much funnier than it sounds, I promise). In this particular episode, three bishops visit Craggy Island to upgrade a local holy stone to a "class 2 relic"... hilarity ensues, of course. As I was watching, I began admiring the robes worn by the priests... and they started to remind me of something... now what was it...?

Yikes! My eyes suddenly darted a few cms left of the screen to my dress form and there it was! I'd inadvertently been channeling Catholic Bishop Chic through my sewing all along. Stop laughing!

Can we just pretend we never noticed the uncanny similarity please? It's the Moonrise Kingdom jacket. The Moonrise Kingdom jacket.



[Soundtrack: 'The Young Person's Guide to the Orchestra' composed by Benjamin Britten]

Behind the Scenes... Going Loco for Coco

In case you're wondering how my latest Big Project is coming along, I thought I'd give you a peek into what's going on behind the scenes. To remind you what I'm on about, I'm working on getting my dressmaking patterns printed. That sounds pretty simple written down like that but actually involves a mountain of soul searching, head scratching, researching, planning and hardcore work! The feedback you gave in my recent questionnaire was super useful - full of interesting insights into how you approach sewing and brilliant ideas for how to make the learning process easier. Plus a hearty dose of support and encouragement, which is always appreciated - thank you :)

Just to keep things fresh, I'm starting with a new pattern. Now, I could keep the design completely under wraps until the release date in the name of surprises. But this time I thought it might be interesting (for me as well as for you) if I pull the curtain back and blog about some of the process. As well as offering you an insight into what goes on behind the scenes on a project like this, perhaps live blogging the process will spur me on towards the finishing line!



So what's the next pattern? Well... without wanting to give absolutely everything away (you still want a bit of a surprise, right?) the starting point for the design was my Breton Tunic Dress, AKA the Dress I Want to Wear Every Day. If you're a regular reader, it will come as no surprise that I've been dreaming about releasing a perfect Breton top/dress pattern, and now I'm finally doing it! Yay! I say "starting point" since the pattern has been through various iterations since I made that dress, plus the pattern will also include some other variations which are just sooooo swoonsome... I hope you love it as much as I do! Oh yes, and the pattern is named Coco, bien sûr.

An early prototype for Coco

So where have I got to? I've been busy prototyping, in other words sewing up squillions of versions of Coco, wearing each one out and about before tweaking the shape, fit and features for style and comfort. I've also been working out the most simple way of sewing a knit garment like this - and the most simple way of explaining how to sew it - so the pattern is super accessible to new stitchers. Each time I make another version of Coco, I follow my instructions word for word and refine them to ensure they are clear, generous explanations without over-complicating things. The pattern is now back from being professionally graded - the raw file that comes back looks nothing like a sewing pattern as we know them, so I'm now working on turning it into a nice-looking, user-friendly format. The next step is to get feedback from a pool of pattern testers. This takes time but is a really important step - just because I like the design and understand the instructions, that doesn't mean that other people will! I use a mix of both experienced stitchers to spot any pattern errors and beginners to ensure the instructions are clear and easy to use. I also need to find a reliable printer that can meet my requirements, plan and take the step-by-step photos for the blog, find a photographer for the finished garment pictures, get the instruction booklet and packaging designed, work out the logistics of distribution... phew! (Did I mention I'm also editing the layouts of my book right now? Bring on the holidays!)

As well as developing the pattern, I've been working out the format of the printed patterns, instructions and packaging. I want the printed patterns to be fresh and appealing, and it needs to be clear what the product actually is to someone who's never seen a sewing pattern before. All while keeping costs down to ensure the final price is right. Which brings me on to the business side of things. I've gone back to school! This Autumn I started the School for Creative Startups, a really amazing course led by serial Doug Richard of Dragon's Den fame. I was extremely fortunate to be awarded the HRH British Made bursary from the Duke of York to participate on the course, thanks to what I've done with this here blog. Crazy, non?! Whether Prince Andrew himself is an avid reader of T&TB is yet to be confirmed... The course has got me thinking seriously about how to ensure what I'm doing is sustainable and to grow it for the future. My dream is to one day be running T&TB from a bright and colourful office-studio and to employ collaborators to work with me... wouldn't that be amazing? It may just be a dream for now, but life is too short not to try to realise your dreams, so it's a goal I'm actively working towards. In the meantime, I'm getting my head around business legislation, cash flows, distribution... so much to think about!



Now that I'm a full time... erm... blogger-author-designer-teacher-entrepreneur, I'll probably start sharing more of what's going on behind the scenes. Personally I love reading those kinds of posts on other blogs by women who are their own bosses (such as Tasia), so hopefully some of you might find it interesting too. Plus it'll be good for me to pause and reflect on how things are going - if a little daunting posting it all on the internet, so be gentle, y'all! If you have any questions about how I do what I do, post them below and I'll see if I can cover them in future posts. In the meantime, wish me luck!

[Soundtrack: 'Steady Pace' by Matthew E. White]

I Made a Bag!

So I've made clothes, undies, shoes, and now a bag! Josie from The Fabric Godmother sent me one of their handbag making kits to try out, and I must say I'm mighty pleased with the result. It's beautiful leather, which comes in various colours - I picked navy. It was super simple to make - all the pieces are pre-cut so you just need to hand stitch it all together using the needle and thread included in the kit. It's the kind of thing that would make an ideal Christmas prezzie for a crafter... or anyone really, as it doesn't require much skill. In fact, it was so easy it felt like cheating! I'd love to take my bag making to the next level and try the Cooper pattern from Colette - have you tried it yet?

The simple design lends itself well to customisation - you could cut the flap into a pretty shape, add decorative holes, use a contrast colour thread... I really liked the simplicity of the shape and colour it comes in though so kept it as it is. The only thing I want to add is a magnetic clasp to keep the flap shut. I'm not sure how to attach it without having to cut a hole in the front flap though... Do you have any ideas how I could secure it shut without ruining the smoothness of the front?

Now I just need to make a brassiere, get on learning to knit, oh and finish that jacket, and I'll have a full handmade wardrobe. I'll draw the line at tights. (Do people make their own tights?)

PS. Don't forget to enter the fantasy shopping splurge giveaway!

[Soundtrack: 'Papa's Got a Brand New Bag' by James Brown]

Sneaky Peeks of Watson in Progress...

It took most of the day to cut out (phew!), but now that I'm at the sewing stage my Watson jacket is coming along nicely. As much as I like quick and easy sewing projects, occasionally it's nice to settle in with a stack of CDs and a bar of Dairy Milk and spend a bit more time on something more involved, non? With lots of lovely details. Including bound buttonholes! Just as there is more than one way to sew a dart, there are various ways of constructing bound buttonholes, and I made these ones using a cross-between the methods outlined in Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing and Karen's e-book. Ooh they are lovely! 

Do you like the lining? I found it on a recent sewing blogger trip to Goldhawk Road when Jen was in town. Here we all are captured on film sharing what we plan to buy... oh erm... all except me and Janene who were clearly not concentrating!

Hopefully I'll have the finished jacket to show you before too long...

[Soundtrack: 'Sophia' by Laura Marling]

Five or Six Ways to Sew a Dart

Just as there's more than one way to skin a cat (aw poor kitty!), there's more than one way to approach any sewing technique. When you're just starting out, following instructions from a book, sewing pattern or website on how to make something is a great way to learn. But don't be fooled into thinking that technique you learnt is the only way. Keep your ear the ground, as you'll probably discover multiple methods of accomplishing the same outcome. As your confidence grows, you might even invent your own technique - and that's awesome! I'm a big advocate of innovation and questioning convention (man), and it makes total sense to be creative when you're creating, non? That's why it's called DIY. In any case, I guess what I'm saying is be open to new ways of doing things and to do what works for you, rather than worrying whether you're doing it the "correct" way. (Because there's no such thing.)

Case in point, in the last few weeks I came across no less than five different ways of sewing a dart. Five! I love that. Each one had me ooh-ing with interest. Wanna know what they are? Here goes...

1. The Tilly
Okay, so this isn't one of the five, this is my starting point of the method I use. I didn't invent it, it's just my go-to technique. Although that'll probably change once I try out all the other ways listed below. In brief, with this method, you mark the dart legs on the fabric, start sewing from the outer edge towards the tip, stitch off the end and tie the loose threads in a knot. Hand-tying and then steaming the point will avoid creating a nipple bump. Phew.

2. The Christine
In Christine Haynes' Emery Dress sewalong, the approach she uses is to change the stitch length to 1mm to sew the last 1cm / 3/8" or so of the dart. The smaller stitches will stay in place so you don't need to tie them in a knot. Genius! (If you're still getting used to the sewing machine, just take extra care here as the smaller stitch length might lead to wibbly-wobbly stitches.)

3. The Katie
I came across an interesting tip in the instructions that accompany the Watson jacket sewing pattern from Papercut Patterns. Katie suggests pivoting around when your needle reaches the tip of the dart, and stitching half way back down across the flap of the dart itself, as a way of finishing the stitching away from the end so it's not left too pointy.

4. The Kristen
When I took a course in professional sewing techniques, we learnt lots of short cuts to maximise productivity. If you're sewing for fun, you can afford to take your time, but it's interesting to know a few tips and tricks of the trade. One such short cut was recently shared by Kristen from Colette Patterns. Instead of marking the dart on the fabric, pull the thread from your sewing machine needle towards you and - more importantly - to the tip of the dart. Use the thread as a stitching guide - sew in this direction to end up at the tip. Clever! This is definitely one for the more advanced stitchers amongst you, so don't be disheartened if you find it tricky.

5. The Anna
Anna from A Few Threads Loose shared a tip she learnt on another sewing course. This time, instead of sewing in a straight line towards and off the tip of the dart, you stitch a slight curve towards the end of the dart for a smoother shape. I must try this!

6. The Marie
And finally, Marie the Maverick defies convention by starting her stitching from the tip of the dart rather than the edge of the fabric. I don't do this myself, as I find my needle and bobbin thread all get tangled up together into a knot before I've even started. But somehow Marie manages it, so she wins ten points for sticking it to the man and going her own way. Yeah!

So there you have it! Multiple ways of achieving the same outcome. Do you know any other tips or tricks for sewing a dart? Whether it's something you learnt from someone else, or a method you made up yourself, do share!

Ikat Tova Blouse

Finiiiished! The Tova blouse by Wiksten, gifted by Backstitch, in a soft ikat cotton from John Lewis. I lurrrrve this blouse. I know I'm going to get loads of wear out of it - it's so comfortable and easy to wear. (Do excuse the dishevelled state of my hair non-style in these photos - I call this particular look "Autumn Mist".)

The pattern was easy to use and came together with no problems whatsoever. There are a couple of parts that may prove a little tricky for beginners, notably the part where you have to attach the corners of the inset to the bodice, but it's totally do-able. Plus remember that the seam allowance is 3/8" - something I kept forgetting myself.

The neckline is a little low for me, so in an effort to avoid flashing my bits, I'm wearing a camisole under it for the Autumn. Looks great with a Breton top under it too - then again, what doesn't? I'm considering adding a button or two come Spring - has anyone else done that? When I finished it I was initially a little confused about the floppiness of the stand, I guess I expected it to lie flat against my chest...

... but a quick Google search later and I was reassured that it looks like that on everyone, and looks really great on everyone! Seriously - Google Image search Wiksten Tova. Amazing. On. Everyone.

Love it! Have you made a Tova blouse yet? What did you think?

PS. Guys, thank you SO much to everyone who filled in my questionnaire the other day. It had an incredible 1,000 responses in 24 hours, after which I had to close the survey so it wouldn't explode. I've started reading through all your comments and am feeling so encouraged and inspired by what you've said - thank you!

[Soundtrack: 'Lovin' You More Every Day' by Etta James]